92-94 GMC Jimmy Full size 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1073CURTOut of Stock
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| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 5,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 10,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 1,000 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 500 LB |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S4 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1992 - 1994 | GMC Jimmy | Full size |
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The 92-94 GMC Jimmy Full size 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1074 (Part #HBCW1074) fits 1992-1994 GMC Jimmy models. The 1994 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 92-94 GMC Jimmy Full size 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1074 (Part #HBCW1074) is designed to fit the 1992-1994 GMC Jimmy.
The 92-94 GMC Jimmy Full size 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1074 (Part #HBCW1074) fits the following vehicles: 1992-1994 GMC Jimmy. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 92-94 GMC Jimmy Full size 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1074 (Part #HBCW1074) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, Curt part number 13401 is designed for 1973–1991 Chevy Blazer and GMC Jimmy full-size models. However, if your vehicle is a 1973–1980 model, the forward attachment holes must be drilled as part of the installation process.
Drilling is required only if your vehicle is a 1973–1980 model. For 1981–1991 vehicles, the frame holes already exist and correspond to the hitch attachment holes. For 1973–1980 vehicles, the forward attachment holes must be drilled.
Before installation, locate the holes in the bottom of the frame that correspond to the hitch attachment holes. Remove any undercoating present from the attaching surfaces. You may also need to remove the license plate to access the installation area.
The kit includes: 2 car bolts (1/2-13 UNC, 1-3/4", Grade 8, part 10-10272); 2 hex head cap screws (1/2-13 UNC, 1-3/4", Grade 8, part 10-10370); 4 serrated flange nuts (1/2-13 UNC, Grade 8, part 20-00062); 4 flat washers (1/2", part 30-00133); 2 square hole spacers (0.250 × 1.50 × 2.00", part CM-SP44); and 2 pieces of 1/2" fishwire.
A torque wrench is required to tighten all fasteners to the specified torque value of 110 ft-lbs. For 1973–1980 vehicles, drilling equipment is also needed to create the forward attachment holes. A socket set or wrench set to fit 1/2-13 UNC fasteners is recommended.
1. Locate and prepare the frame holes, removing undercoating from attaching surfaces. 2. Fishwire the applicable bolts and spacers into the frame holes. 3. Raise the hitch into position and place one flat washer per side between the frame and hitch at the rearward attachment location. 4. Torque all hardware to 110 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
Fishwiring is a technique where bolts and spacers are threaded through frame holes using fishwire (a flexible wire) before the hitch is raised into position. This holds the fasteners in place and prevents them from falling out while you position the hitch. The kit includes 2 pieces of 1/2" fishwire for this purpose.
All fasteners must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs using a torque wrench. This applies to all bolts, hex head cap screws, and nuts included in the kit.
The hitch weight is 90 lbs.
The manual does not provide specific towing capacity values for this hitch. You must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Contact Curt Manufacturing technical support at 1-877-287-8634 for capacity specifications.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify an exact interval, but regular inspection before towing is recommended.
Curt Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If defective, Curt may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Warranty is voided by alteration, misuse, or improper installation.
Yes. Note: 1973–1980 vehicles require drilling of forward attachment holes.
Yes, but only for 1973–1980 vehicles. The forward attachment holes must be drilled. 1981–1991 vehicles have existing frame holes.
A torque wrench is required. For 1973–1980 vehicles, drilling equipment is also needed. Standard sockets and wrenches for 1/2-13 UNC fasteners are recommended.
All fasteners must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
License plate removal may be required to install the hitch, depending on your vehicle's configuration.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and structural components are sound. Retorque fasteners as needed to maintain 110 ft-lbs.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Curt part 55411 is designed for Chevy Astro, Chevy Blazer S10, GMC Envoy, GMC Jimmy S10/S15, GMC Safari, and Oldsmobile Bravada. Verify your exact vehicle model and year match this list before purchasing.
The Curt 55411 is a trailer wiring harness that connects to your vehicle's taillight wiring to provide power and signal circuits for a trailer. It terminates in a 4-flat connector that mates with a trailer's 4-flat plug.
The harness contains four wires: Brown (Tail Light Circuit), Yellow (Left Turn/Brake Circuit), Green (Right Turn/Brake Circuit), and White (Ground). Each wire must be spliced into the corresponding vehicle harness wire using the included wire taps.
Locate your vehicle's taillight wiring under the bumper or along the left side framerail. Use a test lamp to identify the wires for left turn, right turn, and taillights. Once identified, splice the harness wires to the corresponding vehicle wires as indicated in the color-coding guide: Brown to tail light, Yellow to left turn/brake, Green to right turn/brake, and White to ground.
Wire taps are included with the harness and are used to splice the four harness wires to the corresponding vehicle harness wires. To use them, fully insert both the vehicle wire and harness wire into the tap, then push down the metal lock to secure the connection.
After splicing all four wires using the wire taps, secure the harness wires to the vehicle using cable ties. This prevents movement and protects the connections from damage.
You can test using either a circuit tester or a trailer. For a circuit tester: attach the ground lead to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat end, then activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and stop lights one at a time and probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat end to confirm proper functionality. For a trailer: mate the 4-flat with the trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a trailer function does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn vehicle functions off, and recheck with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows good functionality, the problem is with the trailer, not the harness.
Before drilling or working on any part of the installation, verify that miscellaneous items (such as fuel lines, brake lines, or electrical components) that may be hidden behind or under any surface are not in the way. This prevents damage to the vehicle and personal injury.
Yes, the Curt 55411 is designed for Chevy Blazer S10. Verify your vehicle model matches the compatibility list before installation.
You need a test lamp or circuit tester to identify vehicle wires and verify proper installation. The harness includes wire taps for splicing and cable ties for securing.
Disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector, turn off the vehicle functions, and retest with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows good functionality, the problem is with the trailer, not the harness installation. If the circuit tester shows a fault, recheck your wire splices and ensure each harness wire is properly connected to the correct vehicle wire: Brown to tail light, Yellow to left turn/brake, Green to right turn/brake, and White to ground.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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