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| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | T3 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1996 - 2024 | GMC Savana 3500 | Excluding cutaway models |
Yes, the 96-24 GMC Savana 3500 Excluding cutaway models 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1135 (Part #HBCW1135) is designed to fit the 1996-2024 GMC Savana 3500.
The 96-24 GMC Savana 3500 Excluding cutaway models 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1135 (Part #HBCW1135) fits 1996-2024 GMC Savana 3500 models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 96-24 GMC Savana 3500 Excluding cutaway models 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1135 (Part #HBCW1135) fits the following vehicles: 1996-2024 GMC Savana 3500. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 96-24 GMC Savana 3500 Excluding cutaway models 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1135 (Part #HBCW1135) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, the Curt 12011 receiver hitch fits 1983–2004 Chevrolet and GMC S-10, S-15, and Sonoma pickups, including Sport Side models, as well as 1996–2000 Isuzu Hombre. Your 1995 S-10 is within the supported model years.
Yes, the Curt 12011 is designed for 1983–2004 Chevrolet and GMC S-10, S-15, and Sonoma pickups. The manual includes specific installation instructions for step bumper models, which apply to your 1999 Sonoma.
Yes, the Curt 12011 is compatible with 1996–2000 Isuzu Hombre pickups.
The Curt 12011 has a gross load capacity of 3500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
The Curt 12011 is designed for use with ball mount part number D-19 / 45519.
The kit includes: 6 M12×1.75 hex head cap screws (HHCS) class 10.9, 12 flat washers (1/2"), 6 lock washers (1/2"), and 6 hex nuts (M12×1.75 class 10). These fasteners are used to attach the hitch to the frame and bumper brackets.
No, drilling is not required. The Curt 12011 is designed to use existing frame and bracket holes.
Yes, for step bumper models you must remove the bumper, though the brackets remain attached to the frame. For bumper bracket configuration models (1994–1997), you remove the bumper bracket bolts. The installation process differs slightly depending on your model year and bumper type.
The manual notes that some spare tires may need to be lowered and repositioned for hitch installation. If your vehicle uses an early model cradle storage system for the spare tire, you may need to cut off part of the carrier along the frame edge. Consult the manual's Step Bumper Models section for details on this modification.
The manual does not specify required tools. However, installation involves removing and reinstalling bumpers and brackets, disconnecting bumper wiring, and tightening M12 fasteners to 79 lb.-ft, so you will need standard wrenches, sockets, and a torque wrench. Consult a professional installer if you are unsure about bumper removal or wiring work.
1. Remove the bumper, leaving brackets attached to the frame. Disconnect bumper wiring and remove wiring guides from the brackets. 2. Remove bumper brackets from the frame. 3. If using a cradle spare tire storage system, mark and cut the carrier 1/8" inboard of the outer frame edge, then lower the spare tire. 4. Position the receiver on the frame and loosely install bumper brackets using 3 M12 bolts and fasteners per side. 5. Reinstall the bumper on the bumper brackets with original bolts and 1/2" washers as spacers (pre-1994 models only). 6. Raise the spare tire and secure it. Reconnect bumper wiring. 7. Torque all fasteners to 79 lb.-ft.
1. Remove bumper bracket bolts and return them to the vehicle owner. 2. Position the hitch on the frame and install fasteners as shown in the diagram.
Three M12 bolts and fasteners are used per side (6 total) to attach the receiver brackets between the bumper brackets and frame.
Yes, if you have a pre-1994 model, use three 1/2" flat washers at each bolt location as spacers between the bumper brackets and bumper when reinstalling the bumper.
All fasteners must be torqued to 79 lb.-ft.
The fasteners are M12×1.75 hex head cap screws (class 10.9) with matching M12×1.75 hex nuts (class 10). Flat washers (1/2") and lock washers (1/2") are also used.
Install fasteners loosely first. Step 4 of the Step Bumper Models instructions states to "loosely install" the bumper brackets. Only after the bumper is reinstalled and the spare tire is raised should you torque all fasteners to 79 lb.-ft in step 7.
The hitch has a gross load capacity of 3500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight. However, you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than the hitch rating. Always follow your vehicle's towing limits.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. This helps ensure safe operation and extends the life of the hitch.
Yes, if your vehicle uses an early model cradle storage system for the spare tire, you must mark the spare tire carrier 1/8" inboard of the outer frame edge and cut off the carrier along that line to allow hitch installation. After cutting, lower the spare tire, install the hitch, then raise and secure the spare tire.
Yes, cutting the spare tire carrier is a permanent modification. The manual instructs you to cut off the carrier along a marked line 1/8" inboard of the outer frame edge. This modification cannot be reversed.
The Curt 12011 fits 1983–2004 Chevrolet and GMC S-10, S-15, and Sonoma pickups (including Sport Side), and 1996–2000 Isuzu Hombre.
3500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight, but do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No, drilling is not required.
All fasteners must be torqued to 79 lb.-ft.
Some spare tires may need to be lowered and repositioned. Early model vehicles with cradle spare tire storage may require cutting the carrier 1/8" inboard of the outer frame edge.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 55359 custom wiring harness is designed for Chevrolet S-10 pickup trucks. It is also compatible with GMC Sonoma pickup and Isuzu Hombre pickup trucks. The harness mounts behind the driver side rear bumper (location T3).
Yes, the Curt 55359 is compatible with GMC Sonoma pickup and Isuzu Hombre pickup trucks, in addition to the Chevrolet S-10. All three vehicles use the same wiring harness installation procedure.
No special tools are required for installation. However, you may need a drill with a 3/32" bit if a suitable grounding point with an existing screw and nut is not available on your vehicle frame.
Locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors at the taillight housing. Separate the connectors carefully without damaging the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end between the separated connectors, ensuring they are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Drilling is required only if a suitable grounding point with an existing screw and nut is not available on your vehicle frame. If drilling is necessary, you will drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. If no existing point is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole and use the provided screw. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
The Curt 55359 includes the custom wiring harness with a 4-flat connector, a ground screw with ring terminal, cable ties for securing loose wires, and a 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly. If you need more information, check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer.
Yes, install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. This should be done as part of the final installation step.
The Curt 55359 fits Chevrolet S-10 pickup, GMC Sonoma pickup, and Isuzu Hombre pickup trucks.
No special tools are required. A drill with 3/32" bit may be needed if drilling a ground screw pilot hole.
Drilling is only required if no existing screw and nut grounding point is available on your vehicle frame. If needed, drill a 3/32" pilot hole.
Separate the taillight connectors, insert the harness between them with locking tabs in place, ground the white wire to the vehicle frame, and secure loose wires with cable ties.
Test using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer to verify proper function.
Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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