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1997 - 2002 Ford Expedition
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 600 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 6,000 LB |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S3,S4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1997 - 2002 | Ford Expedition | — |
Yes, the 97-02 Ford Expedition 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW829 (Part #HBCW829) is designed to fit the 1997-2002 Ford Expedition.
The 97-02 Ford Expedition 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW829 (Part #HBCW829) fits 1997-2002 Ford Expedition models. The 2002 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 97-02 Ford Expedition 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW829 (Part #HBCW829) fits the following vehicles: 1997-2002 Ford Expedition. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 97-02 Ford Expedition 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW829 (Part #HBCW829) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 13438 is designed for 2020-present Ford Explorer and Lincoln Aviator SUVs. Confirm your vehicle year and model match this range before purchasing.
Yes, CURT part number 13438 is designed for 2020-present Lincoln Aviator and Ford Explorer SUVs. Confirm your vehicle year and model match this range before purchasing.
The CURT 13438 is rated for a maximum of 6,000 lbs trailer weight and 600 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than the hitch rating.
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 6" socket extension, 7mm/10mm/21mm sockets, aviation shears, power drill with 1/4" drill bit, marker, tape measure, safety glasses, and plastic rivet gun. Using proper tools will greatly improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required.
No, the CURT 13438 requires no frame drilling. It uses fishwire hardware to route fasteners through existing access holes and mounting holes on the frame.
Yes, trimming is required. You must trim the rear fascia and wire track using aviation shears. The trim diagram shows approximate dimensions of 4.75" and 3.5". All dimensions are approximate, so you must confirm fit prior to trimming. You must also remove the heat shield and wheel well fasteners to access the installation area.
Yes, you must lower the exhaust by removing one fastener on the outside of each frame rail using a 10mm socket, and remove two exhaust isolator hangers using the Rubber Isolator Removal Diagram as reference. You must support the exhaust to avoid damage during this process.
If an underbody panel is present, you must remove it by removing eight fasteners using a 10mm socket and four plastic fasteners. Set the panel aside for reinstallation after the hitch is installed.
Remove the M16 bumper bolt in the frame on each side using a 21mm socket. Return these bolts to the vehicle owner—they are not part of the hitch installation.
Fishwire two 1/2" carriage bolts and two CM-SP6 spacers into the access hole and out the mounting holes on each side. Do not reinstall the rearward most frame rail nut. Reinstall the trimmed heat shield after fishwiring the hardware.
Torque the 1/2" hardware to 75 ft-lbs. This is applied after raising the hitch into position.
Torque the M16 hardware to 146 ft-lbs. This is applied after raising the hitch into position.
Reinstall vehicle components using steps 1–5 in reverse order. This means reinstalling the M16 bumper bolts, wheel well fasteners and heat shield, exhaust isolator hangers and exhaust fasteners, and finally the underbody panel if it was present.
If a kick sensor is present, remove four of the six rivets using a drill along the rear fascia, starting from the driver side, to avoid damaging the kick sensor while trimming. Replacement rivets are included in the hardware kit. When raising the hitch into position, it will be positioned between the upper and lower kick sensor wires.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product.
All non-trailer loads applied to this product must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection helps maintain the integrity and safety of the installation.
The kit includes: four 1/2-13 UNC 1-1/4" grade 8 carriage bolts (10-10278), four serrated flange nuts 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 (20-00062), four 0.250 x 1.00 x 3.00" square hole spacers (CM-SP6), four 1/2" fishwire (1_2 FISHWIRE), four M6 black nylon rivets (10-10401), two M16x2 35mm class 10.9 hex cap screws (10-10403), and two M16 flat washers (30-00185).
When trimming the fascia and wire track using aviation shears, move the sensor wire out of the wire track to avoid cutting it. If a kick sensor is present, remove four of the six rivets using a drill along the rear fascia, starting from the driver side, before trimming to avoid damaging the kick sensor.
Yes, the CURT 13438 is designed for 2020-present Ford Explorer and Lincoln Aviator SUVs.
The CURT 13438 is rated for 6,000 lbs trailer weight and 600 lbs tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No, the CURT 13438 requires no frame drilling. It uses fishwire hardware through existing frame access holes.
Yes, you must trim the rear fascia and wire track using aviation shears. Approximate trim dimensions are 4.75" and 3.5", but you must confirm fit prior to trimming.
Required tools: ratchet, torque wrench, 6" socket extension, 7mm/10mm/21mm sockets, aviation shears, power drill with 1/4" drill bit, marker, tape measure, safety glasses, and plastic rivet gun.
Torque 1/2" hardware to 75 ft-lbs and M16 hardware to 146 ft-lbs.
All non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads voids the warranty.
Yes, you must lower the exhaust by removing one fastener on each side using a 10mm socket and remove two exhaust isolator hangers. Support the exhaust to avoid damage.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56093 wiring harness is designed for Ford Taurus. The installation manual provides specific steps (Steps 1A–8A) for Taurus models, including battery location on the driver side of the engine compartment and taillight connector access through the trunk.
Yes, the Curt 56093 is designed for Ford Explorer 10th generation models. However, installation steps differ by VIN: 10th VIN B, C, or D models use Steps 1B–8B; 10th VIN L models use Steps 1C–8C. The main difference is battery location: VIN B/C/D have the battery on the driver side; VIN L has the battery on the passenger side under a cover.
The Curt 56093 is designed for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems only. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm your system is 12-volt negative ground before installation.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Required tools are: ratchet, panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, paint marker, 8mm socket, pliers, wire stripper, electrical tape, socket extension, cutting tool, and heat gun. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. For Taurus and Explorer (VIN B, C, D), the battery is located on the driver side of the engine compartment. For Explorer (VIN L), the battery is on the passenger side under a cover—push both tabs on the cover towards the rear and lift to access it. Fasten the disconnected negative wire down and away from the battery during installation.
The installation is rated as Easy. Installation difficulty is based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
On a Taurus, the taillight wiring harness connectors are located behind the felt trunk liner. Pull back the felt liner after removing the three plastic fasteners securing it with a panel trim removal tool. The connectors will be similar to those on the custom wiring harness. Separate them from the taillight housing carefully to avoid damaging the locking tabs.
On Explorer 10th generation models, the taillight housing is accessed by loosening the side wall panels with a panel trim removal tool, starting at the floor and working up to the headliner. Pull back the panel to locate the taillight housing and connectors. The connectors will be similar to those on the custom wiring harness. Separate them carefully to avoid damaging the locking tabs.
Insert the custom wiring end with the yellow wire between the separated taillight connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on the passenger side with the green wire.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable existing point is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint before securing the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole if a suitable existing grounding point is not available. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint before installing the provided screw with the white ground wire ring terminal.
The wiring harness includes: Yellow wire (left turn signal), Green wire (right turn signal), Red wire (brake), Brown wire (taillight), White wire (ground), and Black wire (power). The yellow wire connects to the driver side taillight connector, and the green wire connects to the passenger side taillight connector.
Route the black 12 GA power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter as shown on the provided Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. Take care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
Route the green wire along the back of the vehicle under the scuff plate. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. The green wire connects to the passenger side taillight connector.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the provided screw. Locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint before securing the connection.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire connection.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for the specific lamp load rating of your vehicle. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This should be done before completing the final installation steps.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent electrical issues.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal and fasten it away from the battery. (2) Remove floor coverings and scuff panel from the tailgate. (3) Remove felt trunk liner fasteners. (4) Connect the yellow wire to the driver side taillight connectors. (5) Install the ground wire at a suitable grounding point or drill a 3/32" hole. (6) Route the green wire along the back under the scuff plate and connect to the passenger side. (7) Route the black power wire from the battery per the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. (8) Route and store the 4-flat connector, reinstall removed items, reconnect the battery, and install the dust cover.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal on the driver side and fasten it away from the battery. (2) Remove floor coverings and scuff panel from the tailgate; fold third row seats forward. (3) Remove cargo hold-down covers and side panel fasteners. (4) Loosen side wall panels and connect the yellow wire to the driver side taillight connectors. (5) Install the ground wire at a suitable grounding point or drill a 3/32" hole. (6) Route the green wire along the back under the scuff plate and connect to the passenger side. (7) Route the black power wire from the battery per the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. (8) Route and store the 4-flat connector, reinstall removed items, reconnect the battery, and install the dust cover.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Locate the battery on the passenger side under a cover; push both tabs towards the rear and lift to access it. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and fasten it away from the battery. (2) Remove floor coverings and scuff panel from the tailgate; fold third row seats forward. (3) Unthread the cargo net hold-down screw with pliers, loosen the cargo hook fastener cover, and remove the cargo hook with an 8mm socket on both sides. (4) Loosen side wall panels and connect the yellow wire to the driver side taillight connectors. (5) Install the ground wire at a suitable grounding point or drill a 3/32" hole. (6) Route the green wire along the back under the scuff plate and connect to the passenger side. (7) Route the black power wire from the battery per the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. (8) Route and store the 4-flat connector, reinstall removed items, reconnect the battery, and install the dust cover.
Use a panel trim removal tool to remove the scuff panel by pulling out on the bottom and then up. Take care not to damage the alignment tabs on the back. The scuff panel is accessed after opening the tailgate and removing floor coverings.
The battery on Explorer 10th VIN L is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment under a cover. Push both tabs on the cover towards the rear of the vehicle and lift to remove the cover and access the battery.
For Explorer 10th VIN L, use pliers to unthread the screw behind the cargo net hold-down. Use a panel trim removal tool to loosen the cargo hook fastener cover. Use an 8mm socket to remove the cargo hook. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle.
The Curt 56093 is designed for Ford Taurus and Ford Explorer 10th generation (VIN B, C, D, or L). Confirm your vehicle model and year match before purchasing. It requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system.
You need: panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, ratchet, 8mm socket, pliers, cutting tool, heat gun, electrical tape, paint marker, and socket extension. A 3/32" drill bit is needed if drilling for the ground wire.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation and fasten it away from the battery. Reconnect it after all other steps are complete.
Drilling may be required. If no suitable existing grounding point is available near the taillight connector, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire screw. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete. Do not exceed this rating.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire, test the harness with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer before completing final installation steps.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Periodically inspect all wires and connections for visible damage or loose connections. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover when not in use to prevent corrosion.
First, verify the 12-volt power wire is properly connected to the battery with the correct fuse (10-amp maximum) installed. Check that all wire connections at the taillight connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Ensure the white ground wire is securely attached to a clean, rust-free grounding point. Test with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer to confirm proper operation.
The manual states that the vehicle's taillight connectors will be similar to those on the custom wiring harness. If they do not match, verify you have the correct vehicle model and year (Taurus or Explorer 10th generation with correct VIN). Consult the vehicle manufacturer or a Curt representative if connectors are incompatible.
The manual warns to take care not to damage the locking tabs when separating the taillight connectors. If the tabs are damaged, the connectors may not stay fully inserted, which could cause the harness to malfunction. Consult the vehicle manufacturer about replacement connector housings or contact Curt for guidance on repair options.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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