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1997 - 2004 Mitsubishi Montero Sport
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 525 LBS |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LBS |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1997 - 2004 | Mitsubishi Montero Sport | — |
Yes, the 97-04 Mitsubishi Montero Sport 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1986 (Part #HBCW1986) is designed to fit the 1997-2004 Mitsubishi Montero Sport.
The 97-04 Mitsubishi Montero Sport 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1986 (Part #HBCW1986) fits 1997-2004 Mitsubishi Montero Sport models. The 2004 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 97-04 Mitsubishi Montero Sport 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1986 (Part #HBCW1986) fits the following vehicles: 1997-2004 Mitsubishi Montero Sport. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 97-04 Mitsubishi Montero Sport 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1986 (Part #HBCW1986) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 13487 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 3,500 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 525 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes. The installation requires lowering of the exhaust. You must remove the three rearmost rubber holders from the exhaust hangers and support the exhaust with a stand to prevent damage. The exhaust is reinstalled after the hitch is positioned.
You will need a ratchet, 19mm socket, torque wrench, and an exhaust removal tool. A 5/8" open end wrench and pry bar can be used as an alternative if an exhaust removal tool is not available. For a complete tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The kit includes 6 hex bolts (M12 - 1.25 x 40mm, Class 8.8) and 6 conical-toothed washers (1/2"). The hitch bolts to existing weld nuts in the vehicle frame rails.
Use a 5/8" open end wrench and a pry bar. Slide the wrench up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod. Place the flat edge of the pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or hanger rod, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the rubber isolator. Using a lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and rubber isolator helps with removal.
The conical-toothed washers must be installed with the toothed side facing the hitch side plate. The washers are placed between the hex bolt and the hitch before fastening into the weld nuts.
To remove debris from the weld nuts, spray lubricant or compressed air into the hole. For heavy debris, use a wire brush. Take care not to damage the threads.
All M12 fasteners must be torqued to 60 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening and prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
No. During Step 2, loosely install all six hex bolts and conical washers into the hitch holes and weld nuts on both sides. Only after the exhaust is reinstalled should you torque all M12 fasteners to 60 ft-lbs.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. This helps prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. When lowering the exhaust, use a stand to support it and prevent any damage. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The manual does not specify vehicle make, model, or year compatibility. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
No. The kit includes all required hardware: 6 hex bolts (M12 - 1.25 x 40mm) and 6 conical-toothed washers. The hitch bolts to existing weld nuts in your vehicle frame.
No drilling is required. The hitch bolts to existing weld nuts in the vehicle frame rails using the included hardware.
Yes. You must remove the three rearmost rubber holders from the exhaust hangers and support the exhaust with a stand. The exhaust is reinstalled after the hitch is positioned.
Torque all M12 fasteners to 60 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
Gross trailer weight capacity is 3,500 lbs with a tongue weight capacity of 525 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The Curt 56467 is an electrical powered converter designed to integrate trailer lighting with your vehicle's existing taillight system. It converts your vehicle's taillight signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and tail lights) to a 4-flat trailer connector. The converter uses a 12-volt battery connection and is rated for 5.0 amps per side on signal circuits and 7.5 amps total on tail/running circuits.
The converter is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only. Do not use it on vehicles with positive ground or 24-volt systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer if you are unsure of your vehicle's electrical system type.
You will need: a ratchet, cutting tool, Phillips screwdriver, drill, fish wire (can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string), and a 3/32" drill bit. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
The kit includes: a black converter box, yellow, green, and white wires, a 4-flat connector with dust cover, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, cable ties (zip ties) for securing wires, a ground screw, a ring terminal for the ground wire, and a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse. The fuse should be installed after all other installation steps are complete.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and secure it away from the battery. Keep it disconnected until you have completed all wiring steps. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete and before installing the fuse.
Open the hatch and use a panel trim removal tool to remove the taillight trim panel. Remove the two Phillips-head screws securing the taillights in place. Carefully remove the taillight straight back and pull out the grommet. The vehicle taillight wiring connectors will be located just behind the grommet. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Repeat this process on both sides of the vehicle.
Fish wire is a tool used to push or pull electrical wire through a blind hole (a hole you cannot see through). It can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope, or string. Insert the fish wire through the blind hole where the taillight was removed and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull back up. If the wire gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. Make sure the fish wire is long enough to stick out on the other side.
Beginning on the driver side, drop a fish wire down inside the box where the taillight was removed. From under the vehicle, attach the yellow wire to the fish wire and pull it up into the taillight opening. Attach the custom wiring harness to the taillight, then re-attach the factory harness to both the taillight and the custom wiring harness. Route the green wire over to the passenger side, zip-tying as needed to the rear bumper. Repeat the same process on the passenger side using the green wire.
Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The manual does not specify an exact location, but it should be mounted in a secure, accessible location away from heat sources and moving parts. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties after mounting.
You may need to drill a hole, depending on your vehicle. First, locate an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame that can serve as a grounding point. If no suitable existing fastener is available, you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint if necessary.
The ground hole must be 3/32" in diameter. This is a pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Drill only if no existing screw or bolt is available to use as a grounding point.
The converter uses the following wire colors: yellow for left turn signal, green for right turn signal, red for brake signal, and brown for tail/running lights. The white wire is the ground wire. These colors correspond to standard trailer lighting conventions.
Route a 12-gauge wire (or larger) from the vehicle battery to the converter, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges when passing through sheet metal. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Connect the black power wire to the positive (+) battery terminal using a ring terminal. The battery connection must be protected by a 10-amp fuse (maximum). Install the fuse after all other steps are complete.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Route the 4-flat along the rear bumper and zip-tie as needed. Mount the 4-flat close to the receiver tube. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
The converter is rated for 5.0 amps per side on signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake) and 7.5 amps total on tail/running circuits. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and secure it away from the battery. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically marked with red covers or a red '+' symbol), as this can cause a ground short, resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks. Keep the negative terminal disconnected until all wiring steps are complete.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the ground hole or when passing the power wire through sheet metal.
Once the custom wiring harness is installed, verify that it is functioning by attaching the 4-flat to any vehicle with functioning trailer lights. The taillights on the tow vehicle should function along with the taillights on the towing vehicle. You can also use a test light to check for proper function.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the 4-flat dust cover regularly to help prevent corrosion.
The Curt 56467 is designed for 12-volt negative ground vehicles only. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm your vehicle's electrical system type. The manual shows installation on a representative vehicle; consult a fitment database or the manufacturer for your specific vehicle model.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting and keep it disconnected until all wiring is complete. Reconnect only after all steps are done and before installing the fuse.
Drilling may be required for the ground connection. If no existing screw or bolt is available on the vehicle frame, you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Always check for hidden items before drilling to avoid damage.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating, as it can cause overheating, fire, and loss of warranty.
Use 12-gauge wire or larger to route from the vehicle battery to the converter. Route it carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The converter is rated for 5.0 amps per side on signal circuits and 7.5 amps total on tail/running circuits. Do not exceed the product rating or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
First, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the 4-flat to a vehicle with functioning trailer lights. The taillights on both the tow vehicle and towing vehicle should function. If they do not, check: (1) that the negative battery terminal is reconnected, (2) that the 10-amp fuse is installed and not blown, (3) that all wire connections to the taillight connectors are secure and not damaged, (4) that the ground wire is properly connected to the vehicle frame, and (5) that the converter box is properly mounted and not loose.
The fuse is rated for a maximum of 10 amps. If the fuse is blowing repeatedly, you are likely exceeding the product's electrical rating (5.0 amps per side on signal circuits, 7.5 amps total on tail/running circuits) or your vehicle's lamp load rating. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. Check that your trailer lights are not drawing more current than the converter is rated for. Exceeding the product rating can cause overheating and potential fire.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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