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1998 - 2003 Dodge Durango
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1998 - 2003 | Dodge Durango | — |
Yes, the 98-03 Dodge Durango 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW694 (Part #HBCW694) is designed to fit the 1998-2003 Dodge Durango.
The 98-03 Dodge Durango 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW694 (Part #HBCW694) fits 1998-2003 Dodge Durango models. The 2003 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 98-03 Dodge Durango 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW694 (Part #HBCW694) fits the following vehicles: 1998-2003 Dodge Durango. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 98-03 Dodge Durango 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW694 (Part #HBCW694) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, if you own a Dodge Grand Caravan SXT, Chrysler Town and Country Touring (all STO & GO models), Volkswagen Routan S/SE/SEL, or Ram Cargo Van. This hitch is designed specifically for these models.
You will need: 3/8" drive ratchet, 18mm socket, 15mm socket, 13mm socket, torque wrench, screwdriver or punch, and utility knife. A torque wrench is essential because fasteners must be torqued to specific values (48 lb-ft for 10mm bolts, 83 lb-ft for 12mm bolts).
No. The hitch uses existing vehicle fasteners and existing weld nuts in the frame rail. No drilling is required.
You must lower the exhaust. Remove the bolt(s) holding the exhaust and muffler hanger(s) in step 1 to allow the exhaust to drop down out of the way. After hitch installation, raise the muffler and reinstall the exhaust bolts. Rotating the exhaust hanger bracket before tightening will add clearance between the side bracket and exhaust.
Torque all 10mm fasteners to 48 lb-ft and all 12mm fasteners to 83 lb-ft. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The hitch itself has a gross load capacity, but you must follow your vehicle's limits, not the hitch's limits.
Non-trailer loads applied to this hitch must be supported by Curt 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
The Curt 12264 is designed for use with ball mount part number D-224. This hitch is a receiver hitch that accepts compatible ball mounts.
Yes, but you must ensure AC lines are not pinched between the hitch and frame rail during installation. In step 2, verify that AC lines (if present) are not compressed when raising the hitch into position against the vehicle frame.
No, you do not need to remove the bumper. However, you must leave one 12mm bolt on the passenger side of the vehicle frame toward the front that holds the bumper bracket to the vehicle frame. This bolt must remain in place to hold the bumper beam in position. Remove only the other bolts as instructed in step 1.
In step 1, locate and remove two 15mm bolts and three 18mm bolts from the vehicle frame. Leave the one 12mm bolt on the passenger side toward the front that holds the bumper bracket. Also remove the bolt(s) holding the exhaust and muffler hanger(s). All other fasteners remain in place.
The hitch uses existing vehicle hardware—specifically existing 10mm and 12mm bolts that are already in your vehicle's frame. The hitch mounts into existing weld nuts in the frame rail on both sides. No new fasteners are supplied; you reuse the vehicle's original bolts.
Raise the hitch into position against the bottom of the vehicle frame and align the holes in the hitch frame brackets with the holes in the vehicle frame. You may need a punch or screwdriver to help align the holes before inserting the bolts.
Fascia trimming may be required. The manual references a trim diagram and notes that trimming may be necessary, but specific trimming details are shown in the trim diagram section. A utility knife is listed as a required tool.
You will need 18mm, 15mm, and 13mm sockets, all 3/8" drive. The 18mm and 15mm sockets are used to remove vehicle bolts in step 1. The 13mm socket is listed in the tools required section.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection helps maintain the hitch's integrity and safety.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56331 is designed for Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Caravan / Grand Caravan models (SUVs, Mini & Full-Sized Vans). Check your vehicle's make and model against these applications. For confirmation, consult your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer.
Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Caravan / Grand Caravan (SUVs, Mini & Full-Sized Vans).
You will need a ratchet, a T-30 Torx bit, and fishwire. The T-30 Torx bit is used to remove the taillight assembly screws. Fishwire is used to route the custom wiring harness under the vehicle and through the taillight openings.
Ratchet, T-30 Torx bit, and fishwire.
Yes. Step 1 of the installation requires you to locate the vehicle battery on the driver side under the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal before proceeding with any other steps.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation.
Open the vehicle tailgate to access the taillight assemblies. Remove the two T-30 Torx screws securing each taillight assembly. Gently pull out on the taillight, making sure not to damage the alignment tabs on the back.
Locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors behind the taillight housing. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on the passenger side using the harness end with the green wire.
Route the custom wiring harness end with the green wire under the vehicle and up through the opening under the taillight using fishwire. Route the wire to the passenger side along the backside of the bumper and up through the opening under the passenger side taillight. When not in use, roll up and store the 4-flat connector in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
You may be able to use an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame as a grounding point. If no suitable existing point is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Drilling may be required if no existing screw with nut is available for grounding. If needed, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Check for hidden items before drilling.
Locate a flat clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
10-amp maximum fuse protection is required.
Signal Circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail / Running Circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these product ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness will function properly.
Use a test light or connect a properly wired trailer to verify proper function.
Reinstall all items removed during installation and reconnect the negative battery terminal. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
The custom wiring harness includes a yellow wire end (used on the driver side), a green wire end (used on the passenger side), a white ground wire, and a black power wire. The yellow and green wire ends connect to the taillight connectors. The white ground wire is secured to a grounding point using a ring terminal and provided screw. The black power wire is routed from the vehicle battery.
The kit includes a white ground wire with ring terminal, a provided screw for grounding, a black converter box with double-sided tape for mounting, a 4-flat dust cover, and cable ties for securing loose wires.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided grounding screw. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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