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Reese
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Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
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Reese has designed towing equipment since 1952 and remains a benchmark for heavy-duty towing. The line covers fifth wheel hitches such as the modular M5, gooseneck couplers including the Goose Box, air-ride and short-bed pin boxes, weight distribution systems with active sway control, and the accessories that connect them, all built to exceed published industry standards.
Reese has been pioneering towing performance since 1952, when Margaret Reese asked her husband TJ to stop travel trailers rocking every time somebody walked through them. His answer, the first pair of stabilising jacks, was simple and effective enough to change the RV industry. From that starting point Reese grew into a designer and manufacturer of complete towing systems, and today it anchors the heavy-duty end of the Horizon Global towing portfolio.
Fifth wheel towing is where the brand's engineering is most visible. The M5 fifth wheel hitch uses a modular design that breaks into manageable sections for assembly, with a wider stance, tighter tolerances and a shock absorption system aimed at the jolts that travel up through a truck bed. For owners who would rather tow from a gooseneck coupler and keep the bed clear, the Goose Box 20K replaces the trailer's king pin with a gooseneck connection carrying its own air-ride cushioning.
Pin boxes are a Reese speciality. The 5th Airborne uses air-ride technology to dampen road shock and reduce the chucking motion that makes fifth wheel towing tiring, while the Sidewinder was designed for short-bed pickups, pivoting the connection point so the trailer can turn sharply without the front cap meeting the cab.
For conventional towing, Reese weight distribution systems restore load to the tow vehicle's front axle and control sway. The Pro Round Bar distributes weight evenly while damping sway, and the Pro Dual Cam II uses active cam-based sway control that works harder the stronger the sway force becomes. Complete kits pair bars, head and shank to a rated tongue weight, and dedicated sway control kits can be added to existing setups. The products suit RV owners, horse and livestock haulers and anyone towing near the upper end of a vehicle's rating.
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This hitch is designed to distribute the tongue weight of a trailer across the towing vehicle's axles, improving stability and handling. It uses spring bars and chains to transfer weight from the trailer to the front axle of the towing vehicle, reducing rear axle load and improving braking and steering control.
The three most common sizes are 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". You must select a hitch ball with a diameter that matches your trailer coupler size.
No. Do not attempt to tow any type of trailer behind another trailer. Towing multiple trailers may cause severe instability, loss of control, and/or structural failure, and may result in vehicle accident, property damage, and personal injury. Towing multiple trailers is illegal in many jurisdictions.
If your trailer has a straight tongue instead of an A-frame tongue, you will need to use a pole tongue adapter. This adapter attaches to the trailer tongue and provides a place to attach the snap up brackets.
Some surge brakes will not work with weight distributing hitches. You must check your trailer and/or surge brake operating instructions for any special requirements regarding weight distributing hitches. Do not use sway control with surge brakes.
Yes, but with a critical restriction: do not attempt to hook up or tow with the rear wheels of the towing vehicle removed. Severe structural damage to the towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.
The hitch accepts balls with 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shanks. Standard Reese height hitch balls with 1-1/4" shanks are supplied with lock washers and nuts. If you must use a 1" shank ball, use bushing 58109 to reduce the hole size in the ballmount to 1".
The ball rating must equal or exceed the trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). Raised balls usually have reduced load ratings, so the ball rating must equal or exceed trailer GVWR regardless of ball height.
Drill bits in sizes 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4" are needed. A wrench is also required to tighten the 1/2" self-tapping screw.
Line up the tow vehicle and trailer on level pavement in a straight-ahead position, uncoupled. Level the trailer and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the ball socket. The car and trailer should be loaded and ready for travel before final leveling.
Ball height should be greater than coupler height (measured during initial setup) to compensate for vehicle "squat" (approximately 3/4" to 1"). This ensures the ball will be at the correct height when the vehicle settles under load.
Yes. The hitch bar may be used in either the up or down position. Some installations may require a longer hitch bar if extended bumper guards, pickup truck caps, or rear-mounted spare tires limit turn angles. Individual hitch bars are available in various sizes.
Attach the hitch ball to the ballmount (G) using the supplied lock washer and nut. Always place the washer next to the nut. Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, torque the ball nut to 450 ft-lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft-lbs for a 1" nut.
Insert the hitch bar (D) into the hitch box and install a pull pin. Place the ballmount (G) onto the hitch bar and move it up or down to achieve the proper height determined during initial setup.
Insert a 3/4" X 5" bolt (J) through a 3/4" flat washer (F) and the lower hole in the ballmount, then install a flat washer (F), lockwasher (L), and nut (K). Rotate the ballmount up until the ball is vertical or tilted slightly to the rear. Install one adjustment washer (E) on the 3/4" X 5" bolt (J) and insert it in the upper slot in the ballmount. Index the washer to locate the ball mount at the proper angle. Install the second adjustment washer, lock washer, and nut.
Attach chains to the spring bars using U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. Let 2-3 threads protrude below the locknut. The chain must not bind.
Insert the formed end of the spring bar into the lower socket of the ballmount and push upward. Line up the notch in the spring bar with the tab in the upper socket and push up until seated. Rotate the spring bar so that it is in line with the trailer frame to lock it into place. The spring bars will fit on either side as they are not made right or left handed. Repeat for the other bar.
To release a spring bar, lift up on the bar and rotate it so that the notch in the spring bar and the tab in the upper socket are in line, then allow the bar to drop out of the ballmount.
Position the snap up brackets on the trailer A-frame so that the chain on the end of the spring bar is approximately vertical. Turn the 1/2 X 3-1/2 bolt until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten.
Raise the trailer tongue and rear of the car with a jack. Lower the yoke of the snap up bracket until it is parallel with the ground and slip the closest link over the hook. If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the procedure. With the snap up bracket handle over the yoke, raise it until the yoke has passed over-center. Slide the safety pin through the small hole to lock the yoke in place. Repeat for the other side.
After lowering the jack, re-measure the front and rear wheel well reference points. The vehicle should settle evenly, within about 1/2 inch. If the front has settled more than the rear, increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar. If the rear has settled more than the front, reduce the number of links. Check that the trailer is level and that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner.
Yes. If your bracket does not already have a hole in the location 2-1/4" above the arc in the bracket, you must drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket. Then, using the bracket hole as a guide, drill a 1/4" pilot hole in the frame, staying centered in the bracket hole. One method to stay centered is to use the 9/16" drill bit first to make a small dimple in the frame, then finish drilling with the 1/4" drill bit and then a 7/16" drill bit to get the final hole.
No. Do not cut, weld, or modify the cast ball mount. Doing so will void the warranty and may compromise the structural integrity and safety of the hitch.
Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, torque the ball nut to 450 ft-lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft-lbs for a 1" nut. Always use a lock washer and place the washer next to the nut.
Torque the 3/4" nuts (K) to 300 ft-lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft-lbs, then turn the nuts an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
Tighten the 1/2" self-tapping screw to 50 ft-lbs. After installing the screw, re-tighten the 1/2" set screw on the inside of the frame by turning only 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn after making contact with the frame.
Loaded ball height should never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If loaded ball height is greater than uncoupled height, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife when turning and braking at the same time. If this occurs, reduce take-up on spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained.
No. Trailers should not be occupied while being towed, under any circumstances.
Always hook up trailer lights, turn signals, electric brakes, and break-away switch connection (if equipped) even for short trips.
If any part of your towing system bottoms out or if you suspect damage may have occurred in any other way, pull over and make a thorough inspection. Correct any problems before resuming travel.
At the beginning of every towing day: (1) Add a drop of oil at trunnion contact areas with the ball mount; (2) Clean the ball and coupler socket and coat the ball lightly with grease; (3) Check spring bar chains and U-bolts for wear and replace before they become worn halfway through; (4) Check that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place; (5) Check that electrical hookups are in working order and that safety chains are connected.
Place several drops of oil at spring bar/ballmount contact points. Excess oil, dirt, and grit should be wiped out whenever the trailer is uncoupled. Keep trunnions and sockets in the head assembly free of dirt and well lubricated.
Keep trunnions and sockets in the head assembly free of dirt and well lubricated. Excessive wear in this area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Some elongation of socket openings "seat in" is normal. Keep the head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets. Do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between trunnions and the head. Keep the hitch painted to prevent rust and maintain a good appearance. Do not paint over labels.
Yes. Remove the hitch from the towing vehicle receiver when not towing to prevent contamination of head sockets, reduce the chance of striking the hitch on driveway ramps or other objects, and minimize damage in the event of a rear-end collision.
Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of the gross trailer weight for most trailers. Too low a percentage of tongue weight will often produce a tendency to sway. Excess weight on the tongue can also lead to sway and damage the hitch and/or tow vehicle.
Unless specified otherwise by the towing vehicle or trailer manufacturer, tires should be inflated to their maximum recommended pressure.
This hitch works with trailers having 1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16" couplers and A-frame tongues. It is not compatible with pole tongue trailers (without an adapter), multiple trailer towing, or some surge brake systems. Check your trailer and brake operating instructions.
The manual references small parts packages 66014K and 61224 but does not list their contents. Contact Reese at 1-800-758-0869 for a detailed parts list.
The hitch ball must be V-5 rated equal to or greater than your trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). Raised balls have reduced load ratings, so verify the ball rating meets or exceeds your trailer GVWR.
Yes. Line up the tow vehicle and trailer on level pavement in a straight-ahead position, uncoupled. Level the trailer and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the ball socket. The car and trailer should be loaded and ready for travel before final leveling.
Drilling is required only if you install the optional snap up bracket additional bolt. You will need 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4" drill bits. The base hitch installation does not require drilling.
Hitch ball nut: 450 ft-lbs (1-1/4" nut) or 250 ft-lbs (1" nut). Ballmount adjustment nuts: 300 ft-lbs (or 150 ft-lbs plus 1/4 turn if no torque wrench available). Snap up bracket self-tapping screw: 50 ft-lbs.
Loaded ball height must never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If it is, reduce take-up on spring bar chains and re-measure. Exceeding this can cause front wheel overload, loss of rear wheel traction, and jackknifing.
Add oil at trunnion contact areas, clean and grease the ball, check chains and U-bolts for wear, verify all bolts are tight, check the hitch pin and clip are secure, and confirm electrical hookups and safety chains are connected.
If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the snap up bracket connection procedure. This will increase the effective chain length available for proper weight distribution.
If the front has settled more than the rear (more than about 1/2 inch difference), increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar. If there are no more links available, the angle of the head assembly must be decreased. Uncouple the trailer, remove the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivot the head assembly up as appropriate, and reassemble.
If the rear has settled more than the front, reduce the number of chain links between the hook and spring bar. It is preferred that the rear of the vehicle settle the same or more than the front.
Excessive wear in the trunnion and socket area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Ensure the trunnions and sockets are kept free of dirt and well lubricated. Some elongation of socket openings "seat in" is normal.
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