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| Tongue Weight (TW) | 600 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 6,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 10,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 1,000 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | T3,T5 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2003 - 2010 | Dodge Ram 1500 | Excluding factory receiver |
The 03-10 Dodge Ram 1500 Excluding factory receiver 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW711 (Part #HBCW711) fits 2003-2010 Dodge Ram 1500 models. The 2010 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 03-10 Dodge Ram 1500 Excluding factory receiver 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW711 (Part #HBCW711) fits the following vehicles: 2003-2010 Dodge Ram 1500. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 03-10 Dodge Ram 1500 Excluding factory receiver 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW711 (Part #HBCW711) is designed to fit the 2003-2010 Dodge Ram 1500.
The 03-10 Dodge Ram 1500 Excluding factory receiver 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW711 (Part #HBCW711) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Part number 13374 is designed for Dodge Ram 1500 without OEM hitch. If your vehicle already has a factory-installed hitch, this product is not compatible. Verify your vehicle does not have an OEM hitch before purchasing.
The hitch weight is 60 lbs.
When used as a weight-carrying hitch, the gross load capacity is 6,000 lbs. trailer weight and 600 lbs. tongue weight. When used as a weight-distribution hitch, the gross load capacity is 10,000 lbs. trailer weight and 1,000 lbs. tongue weight. However, you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than these ratings.
No. Part 13374 is designed for Dodge Ram 1500 without OEM hitch only.
No drilling is required. The hitch uses existing frame rail holes and fastens to existing weldnuts and bolts on the bumper beam.
Socket wrench, torque wrench, 6" socket extension, 3/4" socket, and 21mm socket.
Yes. Step 1 of the installation requires you to lower the spare tire for ease of installation. After installation is complete, you raise the spare tire back into position in Step 8.
Professional installation takes approximately 43 minutes. DIY installation for a novice takes approximately 60 minutes.
The hitch includes: four 1/2-13 UNC carriage bolts, 1-1/2" grade 8 (part 10-10287); four 1/2-13 UNC serrated flange nuts grade 8 (part 20-00062); two 0.250 x 1.50 x 3.00" square hole spacers (part CM-SP4); two 0.188 x 1.00 x 3.00" square hole spacers (part CM-SP40); and two 1/2" x 30" fishwire pieces (part 1_2 x 30 FISHWIRE).
In Step 2, remove the existing M14 bolts that connect the bumper beam to the frame rail on both the driver and passenger sides of the vehicle. Save these bolts because you will reinstall them in Step 6.
The fishwire technique is used to route the 1/2-13 carriage bolts and spacers through the frame rails and bumper beam. Step 3 uses the reverse pull fishwire technique to insert bolts through the large round holes in the frame rails. Step 4 uses the standard fishwire technique to insert bolts through the bumper beam ends and out the slot in front of the bumper beam. Detailed diagrams for both techniques are provided in the manual.
Torque all 1/2" hardware (the carriage bolts and hex flange nuts) to 110 lb-ft.
Torque the M14 bolts (the existing bumper beam bolts reinstalled in Step 6) to 126 lb-ft.
No. In Step 5, install the 1/2-13 hex flange nuts loosely onto the 1/2" carriage bolts. Do not tighten them until Step 7, after you have reinstalled the M14 bolts removed in Step 2. This allows proper alignment of all components before final tightening.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Lower spare tire; (2) Remove existing M14 bolts from bumper beam and save them; (3) Use reverse pull fishwire technique to insert carriage bolts and CM-SP40 spacers through frame rail holes; (4) Use fishwire technique to insert carriage bolts and CM-SP4 spacers through bumper beam; (5) Raise hitch into position and loosely install hex flange nuts; (6) Reinstall the M14 bolts removed in Step 2; (7) Torque all hardware to specification; (8) Raise spare tire back into position.
Yes. Step 2 requires you to remove the existing M14 bolts connecting the bumper beam to the frame rail on both sides. You must save these bolts and reinstall them in Step 6 as part of the hitch installation.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. This helps maintain safe operation and prevent loosening due to vibration and use.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Although this hitch has a gross load capacity of 6,000 lbs. trailer weight and 600 lbs. tongue weight as a weight-carrying hitch (or 10,000 lbs. and 1,000 lbs. as a weight-distribution hitch), your Dodge Ram 1500 may have a lower manufacturer-recommended limit that you must follow.
Curt Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, Curt may repair or replace it at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. The warranty is voided by alteration, misuse, or improper installation. Curt's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Call Curt Manufacturing technical support at 1-877-287-8634 if you have installation questions.
Torque 1/2" hardware (carriage bolts and hex flange nuts) to 110 lb-ft. Torque M14 bolts (existing bumper beam bolts) to 126 lb-ft.
Yes. Lower the spare tire in Step 1 for ease of installation, then raise it back in Step 8 after installation is complete.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, Curt part number 55504 is designed for Dodge Ram 1500, Dodge Ram 2500, and Dodge Ram 3500 models. The installation uses the vehicle's existing taillight wiring harness in positions T3 and T5.
The Curt 55504 is a T-connector trailer wiring harness that taps into your vehicle's existing taillight wiring. It includes a converter box, a 4-flat connector for the trailer, and wiring with yellow and green leads for the driver and passenger sides respectively.
The kit includes a T-connector with yellow and green wires, a black converter box, a white ground wire with eyelet and screw, double-sided tape, cable ties, and a 4-flat connector. You will need a drill with a 3/32" bit if no suitable existing screw is available for grounding.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected. Contact Curt Manufacturing or your installer for this safety requirement before beginning work.
Locate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness in positions T3 and T5 under the vehicle. The harness will have connectors similar to those on the T-connector included in the kit.
On the driver's side, separate the vehicle's taillight connectors without damaging the locking tabs. Insert the T-connector end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors, ensuring they are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the passenger's side using the green wire T-connector end.
Route the T-connector end with the green wire under the vehicle to the passenger's side taillight wiring harness. Avoid any location that may pinch or cut the wire during routing.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame. If no existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided in the kit. Before drilling, verify that no miscellaneous items are hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage or personal injury.
Drilling is required only if no suitable existing screw with nut is available on the vehicle's frame for grounding the white wire. If drilling is necessary, use a 3/32" drill bit. Always verify that no miscellaneous items are hidden behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
Drill a 3/32" hole if no existing screw is available on the vehicle's frame for grounding the white wire.
Adhere the black converter box to the frame of the vehicle using the double-sided tape provided in the kit.
Secure any loose parts of the T-connector with the cable ties provided in the kit.
Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location.
Before drilling, verify that miscellaneous items are not hidden behind or under any surface. Drilling without checking can cause damage to hidden components and personal injury.
Avoid any location that may pinch or cut the wire when routing the T-connector under the vehicle. Also, do not damage the locking tabs on the vehicle's connectors when separating them.
Yes, the Curt 55504 is designed for Dodge Ram 1500, 2500, and 3500 models.
You need a drill with a 3/32" bit only if no existing screw is available on the vehicle frame for grounding. All other hardware is included.
Drilling is optional and only needed if no existing screw with nut is available on the vehicle frame for the ground wire. If drilling is required, use a 3/32" bit.
Before drilling, verify that no miscellaneous items are hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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