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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2004 - 2007 | Dodge Caravan | With Stow'n Go |
Yes, the 04-07 Dodge Caravan With Stow'n Go 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW668 (Part #HBCW668) is designed to fit the 2004-2007 Dodge Caravan.
The 04-07 Dodge Caravan With Stow'n Go 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW668 (Part #HBCW668) fits the following vehicles: 2004-2007 Dodge Caravan. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 04-07 Dodge Caravan With Stow'n Go 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW668 (Part #HBCW668) fits 2004-2007 Dodge Caravan models. The 2007 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 04-07 Dodge Caravan With Stow'n Go 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW668 (Part #HBCW668) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, Curt part number 12362 is designed for 1996–2007 Chrysler Town & Country, Dodge Caravan, and 1996–2004 Plymouth Voyager models, except Stow & Go and Sport variants. If your 2005 Caravan is not a Stow & Go or Sport model, this hitch is compatible.
No. Curt part number 12362 is not designed for Stow & Go or Sport models of the Dodge Caravan. You will need to verify compatibility with Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database for an alternative part number.
No. Curt part number 12362 is designed for 1996–2004 Plymouth Voyager models only. A 1995 model is outside the supported range.
Curt ballmount D-55001 or 36071 is designed for use with this hitch. Consult Curt Manufacturing or the ballmount documentation to confirm compatibility with your towing setup.
The hitch includes: 4× 1/2-13 UNC carriage bolts (10-10287), 4× 0.250 × 1.00 × 2.00" square hole spacers (CM-SP12), 4× 1/2-13 UNC serrated flange nuts (20-00062), 2× 1/2" conical toothed washers (30-00149), 2× M12 × 1.75 × 35 mm hex cap screws (10-10426), and 2× 1/2" fishwire tools.
No. The rearmost bumper bracket bolt on each side of the frame is removed and replaced with a new carriage bolt (10-10287) as part of the installation. The new bolt is installed in the frame slot between the bumper bracket bolts.
You will need: a 17/32" drill bit (if drilling is required), fishwire tools (included), a wrench or socket set for 1/2" and M12 fasteners, and a torque wrench capable of 110 ft-lbs and 79 ft-lbs. A lift or jack may be helpful to position the hitch.
Drilling may be required. There are three mounting hole locations per side; some vehicles have all holes pre-drilled, while others may require one or more holes to be drilled. Use the hitch as a template to mark hole locations, then drill using a 17/32" drill bit.
Use a 17/32" drill bit to create the mounting holes.
Use the provided fishwire tools to insert the carriage bolts and spacers through the frame access slot and out the proper mounting holes. If the access hole is not available, enlarge the square hole in the frame or fishwire through the end of the frame rail behind the bumper. Note that a plastic flap is present in the frame; the hardware must pass by it.
The rearmost carriage bolt should be installed in the available frame slot located between the bumper bracket bolts.
The hitch is attached to the frame using 1/2" hex flange nuts (20-00062) with the carriage bolts (10-10287) and spacers (CM-SP12). The M12 hex bolts (10-10426) with 1/2" conical toothed washers (30-00149) attach the hitch to the bumper bracket.
All 1/2" hardware (carriage bolts and flange nuts) must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs.
All M12 hardware (hex bolts and conical toothed washers) must be torqued to 79 ft-lbs.
The manual states a gross load capacity of 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
Non-trailer loads may be applied to this hitch only if they are fully supported by auxiliary stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
After installation, ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. Periodically check the receiver hitch to confirm that all fasteners remain tight and that no structural damage or wear is present.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. No specific interval is stated in the manual; consult Curt Manufacturing or your vehicle manual for recommended maintenance intervals.
Curt 12362 fits 1996–2007 Chrysler Town & Country, Dodge Caravan, and 1996–2004 Plymouth Voyager (except Stow & Go and Sport models). Check your model year and variant against these specifications.
Drilling may be required. Use a 17/32" drill bit if any of the three mounting holes per side are not pre-drilled. Use the hitch as a template to mark hole locations.
Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs and all M12 hardware to 79 ft-lbs.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 55334 custom wiring harness is designed for Dodge Durango SUVs. It is also compatible with Chrysler Town & Country, Dodge Caravan, Dodge Grand Caravan, Plymouth Grand Voyager, and Plymouth Voyager vehicles.
Yes, the Curt 55334 is compatible with Plymouth Voyager and Plymouth Grand Voyager models. It is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans in the listed applications.
The 55334 has two circuit ratings: Signal Circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side, and Tail/Running Circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
You will need: Phillips screwdriver, flat blade screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, and cutting tool.
The harness includes a custom wiring harness with yellow and green wires, a black box, a 4-flat connector with housing, double-sided tape, cable ties, sealant, and a 4-flat dust cover.
The harness connects behind both taillight housings. The yellow wire harness connects to the driver side taillight (location S1), and the green wire harness connects to the passenger side taillight (location S2). The 4-flat connector is routed to the jack compartment for storage.
Yes. For both Durango and mini van installations, you must remove the two screws securing the taillight assembly and carefully pull it outward. You will then disconnect the vehicle wiring harness from both taillights by sliding the red locking tab to the unlocked position.
The main difference is the routing path. In a Durango, the harness is inserted behind the air baffle and routed through the interior panels. In a mini van, the harness is inserted behind the jack storage compartment and routed through the interior panels. Both require slitting the rubber grommets, securing the black box with double-sided tape and cable ties, and sealing the cuts with provided sealant.
Slit the rubber grommet as shown in the instructions. Place the custom wiring harness wires into the slit and reseat the grommet into its mounting location. Use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all the wires to prevent moisture and corrosion.
The black box should be secured to metal behind the rubber grommet (Durango) or behind the jack compartment (mini van) using the provided double-sided tape and cable ties.
Route the 4-flat connector into the jack compartment for storage. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when removing panels and accessing areas behind taillights and interior trim.
All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness will function properly. Once installed, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer.
Yes. When inserting the custom wiring harness between the separated vehicle connectors, make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. This ensures proper electrical connection and function.
The 55334 fits Chrysler Town & Country, Dodge Caravan, Dodge Durango, Dodge Grand Caravan, Plymouth Grand Voyager, and Plymouth Voyager.
Phillips screwdriver, flat blade screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, and cutting tool.
Signal Circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running Circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Yes. Slit the rubber grommet, place the wiring harness wires into the slit, reseat the grommet, and seal the cut with the provided sealant.
Check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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