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2005 - 2010 Chrysler 300
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| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | n/a |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | n/a |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2005 - 2010 | Chrysler 300 | — |
The 05-10 Chrysler 300 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW627 (Part #HBCW627) fits the following vehicles: 2005-2010 Chrysler 300. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 05-10 Chrysler 300 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW627 (Part #HBCW627) fits 2005-2010 Chrysler 300 models. The 2010 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 05-10 Chrysler 300 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW627 (Part #HBCW627) is designed to fit the 2005-2010 Chrysler 300.
The 05-10 Chrysler 300 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW627 (Part #HBCW627) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part 13465 fits Chrysler 300 Limited and 300C models, as well as Magnum RT/SXT/SE, Charger R/T, and Challenger. Installation requires lowering the exhaust system: on 300 Limited models, remove 2 hangers and 1 rubber mount; on 300C and Magnum with dual exhaust, remove 4 hangers and 2 rubber mounts.
The kit includes: 3× M12×1.75×40mm hex head cap screws (grade 10.9), 3× 1/2" S-CON washers, 3× 1/2"-13 UNC serrated flange nuts (grade 8), 3× 0.188×1.00×3.00" square hole spacers, 3× 1/2"-13 UNC carriage bolts 1-3/4" long (grade 8), and 1× 1/2" fishwire.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing frame holes and fishwire fasteners to secure the carriage bolts and spacer blocks.
Torque all 1/2" fasteners to 110 lb-ft and all 12mm fasteners to 79 lb-ft. All fasteners must be initially installed finger-tight only, then torqued to final specification in step 5.
You do not need to fully remove the exhaust, but you must lower it. On 300 Limited models, remove 2 exhaust hangers and 1 rubber mount. On 300C and Magnum with dual exhaust, remove 4 hangers and 2 rubber mounts. Reinstall these after the hitch is secured.
The manual does not specify the gross load capacity or tongue weight for this hitch. Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Contact Curt Technical Support at 1-877-287-8634 for capacity information.
Non-trailer loads applied to this hitch must be supported by auxiliary stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
Curt part 13465 is designed for Chrysler 300 Limited, 300C, Magnum RT/SXT/SE, Charger R/T, and Challenger. The installation procedure varies slightly depending on exhaust configuration: 300 Limited has a single exhaust with 2 hangers and 1 rubber mount, while 300C and Magnum models with dual exhaust have 4 hangers and 2 rubber mounts.
The exhaust system must be lowered to allow the hitch to slide into position. On Chrysler 300 Limited models, remove the 2 exhaust hangers and 1 rubber mount. On 300C and Dodge Magnum models with dual exhaust, remove 4 hangers and 2 rubber mounts. After the hitch is secured, reinstall all removed hangers and mounts.
1. Lower the exhaust by removing hangers and rubber mounts (step 1). 2. Thread the 1/2" fishwire, carriage bolts, and spacer blocks through existing frame holes (step 2). 3. Slide the hitch over the muffler(s) and into position over the carriage bolts (step 3). 4. Secure with flange nuts, finger-tight only (step 3). 5. Install 12mm hex bolts and conical washers in remaining holes, finger-tight only (step 4). 6. Torque all 1/2" fasteners to 110 lb-ft and all 12mm fasteners to 79 lb-ft (step 5). 7. Reinstall exhaust hangers and mounts (step 6).
Installing fasteners finger-tight first allows the hitch to be positioned and aligned properly before final torquing. This ensures all components are correctly seated and aligned before applying full torque, which helps prevent misalignment and ensures even load distribution across all fasteners.
All 1/2" fasteners are torqued to 110 lb-ft. These are the 1/2"-13 UNC carriage bolts (part 10-10272) that pass through the frame holes and are secured with 1/2"-13 UNC serrated flange nuts (part 20-00062).
All 12mm fasteners are torqued to 79 lb-ft. These are the M12×1.75×40mm hex head cap screws (part 10-10386, grade 10.9) installed with S-CON washers (part 30-00149) in the remaining hitch holes.
Three 0.188×1.00×3.00" square hole spacers (part CM-SP40) are included to maintain proper spacing and alignment when threading the 1/2" carriage bolts and fishwire through the existing frame holes before sliding the hitch into position.
Fishwire is a flexible wire tool used to thread fasteners through existing frame holes that are not directly accessible. On this hitch, the 1/2" fishwire (part 1_2 FISHWIRE) is used to guide the carriage bolts and spacer blocks through the frame holes before the hitch is slid into final position.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. This helps maintain safe operation and prevent loosening due to vibration and use.
Curt Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If defective, Curt may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Warranty is voided by alteration, misuse, or improper installation, including failure to properly support non-trailer loads with auxiliary stabilizing straps.
Call Curt Manufacturing Technical Support at 1-877-287-8634 for installation questions or to confirm specifications such as towing capacity.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Curt 55534 is a trailer wiring harness designed for Chrysler 300, Dodge Challenger, and Dodge Charger vehicles. It includes a 4-flat connector wire, T-connectors for the taillight circuit, a grounding wire with eyelet, and fastening hardware.
Curt 55534 is designed for Chrysler 300, Dodge Challenger, and Dodge Charger. The manual does not specify model years. Confirm your vehicle matches one of these three models before purchasing.
The harness includes a 4-flat connector wire, two T-connectors (one with yellow wire, one with green wire), a white grounding wire with eyelet, a screw, and a nut. The manual does not list all fasteners or specify quantities beyond what is needed for installation.
Basic hand tools are required: a screwdriver (to remove and reinstall the trunk scuff panel and secure fasteners), a drill with a 3/32" bit (if drilling a new grounding hole), and a wrench or socket (to secure the grounding wire nut). The manual does not specify additional tools.
On the driver's side, remove the plastic wing nut securing the trunk liner and pull back the trunk liner to expose the vehicle's taillight wiring harness. Repeat on the passenger side, then partially remove the vehicle's trunk scuff panel.
On the driver's side, insert the T-connector end with the yellow wire between the separated taillight connectors. Route the T-connector end with the green wire to the passenger side under the scuff panel. Repeat this process on the passenger's side, then reinstall the scuff panel.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided with the harness.
Drilling is not always required. If a suitable existing grounding point (such as a screw with nut in the vehicle's frame) is available near the connector, you can use that. If not, you must drill a 3/32" hole for the grounding wire.
Drill a 3/32" hole for the grounding wire if an existing grounding point is not available.
Before drilling, verify that no miscellaneous items are hidden behind or under any surface. Drilling without checking can cause damage to vehicle components and personal injury.
Route the 4-flat wire to the center of the vehicle and out the trunk when in use. When not in use, roll up the wire and store it in an out-of-the-way location in the trunk.
Curt 55534 fits Chrysler 300, Dodge Challenger, and Dodge Charger. Model years are not specified in the manual.
Drilling is required only if no existing grounding point is available. If drilling is needed, a 3/32" hole is drilled for the ground wire. Always verify no hidden items are behind surfaces before drilling.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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