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2012 - 2023 Chrysler 300S
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | n/a |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | n/a |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2012 - 2023 | Chrysler 300S | — |
The 12-23 Chrysler 300S 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW632 (Part #HBCW632) fits the following vehicles: 2012-2023 Chrysler 300S. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 12-23 Chrysler 300S 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW632 (Part #HBCW632) is designed to fit the 2012-2023 Chrysler 300S.
The 12-23 Chrysler 300S 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW632 (Part #HBCW632) fits 2012-2023 Chrysler 300S models. The 2023 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 12-23 Chrysler 300S 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW632 (Part #HBCW632) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part 13093 fits 2011-present Dodge Charger, Chrysler 300C, and Chrysler 300S sedans and coupes. The hitch is rated for a maximum trailer weight of 3,500 lbs and tongue weight of 350 lbs. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than these limits.
The CURT 13093 is rated for a maximum trailer weight of 3,500 lbs and tongue weight of 350 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than these limits.
You will need: ratchet, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, socket universal joint, 13mm socket, 15mm socket, 19mm socket, and 3/4-inch socket. Safety glasses should be worn at all times during installation.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing holes in the frame rail and existing weldnuts (on 2011-2014 models) or existing holes (on 2015 models). Hardware is fishwired through access holes on both sides of the frame rail.
Yes, the driver side muffler must be removed during installation. The muffler is removed to allow the hitch to be positioned and secured. After the hitch is installed and secured, the muffler is reattached. The removal and reattachment process differs between V6 and V8 models.
Two people may be required to ease installation. While not explicitly stated as mandatory, the manual recommends 2 people may be required, and the installation involves raising the hitch into position, which is easier with assistance.
1. Remove 2 exhaust isolators near muffler on driver and passenger sides; save bolts. 2. Remove 2 rubber isolators from exhaust pipe. 3. Remove driver side muffler (process differs for V6 vs V8). 4. Fishwire 1/2-inch carriage bolts and CM-SP40 spacers through frame rail access holes. 5. Raise hitch into position, passenger side first, then driver side. 6. Secure with M12 hardware and 1/2-inch hex flange nuts. 7. Reattach driver side muffler. 8. Raise exhaust back into position and reattach isolators and hangers.
Place the passenger side of the hitch over the passenger side muffler first, then raise the driver side of the hitch into position. This sequence ensures proper alignment before final securing.
Torque 1/2-inch hardware to 110 lb-ft and M12 hardware to 79 lb-ft. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness.
Fishwire 1/2-inch carriage bolts and CM-SP40 spacers through the access hole on driver and passenger side frame rails. Pull the hardware through existing holes: 2 holes on the passenger side and 1 hole on the driver side (2011-2014 models). For 2015 models, fishwire 3 carriage bolts on the passenger side and 1 on the driver side. The manual references a fishwire technique diagram for detailed guidance.
Yes. 2011-2014 models have existing weldnuts that the M12 hardware secures to. 2015 models have no weldnut and use a different layout. For fishwiring, 2011-2014 models use 4 carriage bolts (2 passenger, 1 driver, plus 1 additional), while 2015 models use 3 carriage bolts (2 passenger, 1 driver). The 2011-2014 model layout diagram should not be used for 2015 models.
The reattachment process differs by engine type. On V6 models: slide the driver side muffler/tube back into position against the stud on the exhaust system and secure the clamp with the nut removed in step 3. On V8 models: reattach the driver side muffler onto the studs with the nuts and springs removed in step 3.
The kit includes: 4 pieces of 1/2-inch fishwire, 3 M12x1.75 hex head cap screws (part 10-10386), 3 S-CON washers 1/2-inch (part 30-00149), 4 serrated flange nuts 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 (part 20-00062), 4 square hole spacers 0.188 x 1.00 x 3.00 inches (part CM-SP40), and 4 carriage bolts 1/2-13 UNC 1-3/4 inches grade 8 (part 10-10272). Note: not all hardware will be used on every model year.
Yes. Save the bolts from the 2 exhaust isolators removed in step 1, as they must be reinstalled in step 8. On V6 models, save the nut from the exhaust clamp removed in step 3. On V8 models, save the nuts and springs from the muffler attachment removed in step 3, as these are needed for reattachment.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. While the CURT 13093 is rated for 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight, your vehicle's manufacturer may specify a lower limit. Always follow your vehicle manufacturer's recommendations, which take precedence.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product.
All non-trailer loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. This maintenance is important for safe operation and to maintain warranty coverage.
The manual states to periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound, but does not specify an exact inspection interval. Regular inspection before towing is recommended as a best practice.
The installation is rated as moderate to challenging difficulty. Professional installation time is estimated at 90 minutes, while novice (DIY) installation time is estimated at 45 minutes. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, CURT recommends contacting an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Yes, the CURT 13093 fits 2011-present Dodge Charger, Chrysler 300C, and 300S sedans and coupes. It is rated for 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight, but never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No, no drilling is required. The hitch uses existing frame holes and weldnuts (2011-2014) or existing holes (2015+). Hardware is fishwired through access holes.
You need: ratchet, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, socket universal joint, 13mm, 15mm, 19mm, and 3/4-inch sockets. Safety glasses are required.
Torque 1/2-inch hardware to 110 lb-ft and M12 hardware to 79 lb-ft using a torque wrench.
The hitch is rated for 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight, but you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ensures safe operation and maintains warranty coverage.
All non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to do so voids the warranty.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56145 is a T-Connector wiring harness designed for the Chrysler 300C. It integrates with the vehicle's existing taillight wiring to provide trailer lighting connections. The system includes a converter box, T-Connector harness with yellow and green wire ends, a white ground wire with eyelet, a black power wire, a fuse holder with 10 amp fuse, double-sided tape, cable ties, and a 4-flat connector for trailer use.
Yes, the Curt 56145 is designed specifically for the Chrysler 300C. The installation procedure accesses the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors in the trunk and connects to the fuse panel near the battery.
The kit includes a T-Connector harness with yellow and green wire ends, a black converter box, a white ground wire with eyelet, a black power wire, a fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse, a screw for the ground wire, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing loose wires, and a 4-flat connector for trailer use.
Open the trunk and remove: all trunk floor covers, the rear scuff panel (by pulling out at the bottom and up at the top), and on both sides of the trunk remove the plastic fastener and cargo loop holding the felt trunk liner in place. You will also need to remove the fuse panel cover near the battery and remove the nut securing the red battery cable.
On the driver's side, pull back the felt trunk liner to locate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors. Separate the connectors carefully without damaging the locking tabs. Insert the T-Connector end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on the passenger side using the T-Connector end with the green wire, routing it behind the removed scuff panel.
Locate a flat spot on the vehicle's frame and adhere the black converter box using the double-sided tape provided. Choose a location that is accessible and will not interfere with trunk contents or moving parts.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" hole and secure the eyelet of the white ground wire using the screw provided. Before drilling, verify that miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface will not be damaged.
Route the black power wire to the fuse panel near the battery. Remove the fuse panel's cover and remove the nut securing the red battery cable. Place the fuse holder's ring terminal over the stud and replace the nut. Install the 10 amp fuse provided in the fuse holder and close the fuse holder's cap.
Use the 10 amp fuse provided with the kit. Install it in the fuse holder that connects to the red battery cable at the fuse panel.
Route the 4-flat connector out from under the felt trunk liner to the center of the vehicle when in use. When not in use, roll it up and store in an out-of-the-way location to prevent damage and keep the trunk clear.
Reinstall all items removed during installation, including trunk floor covers, rear scuff panel, felt trunk liner fasteners and cargo loops, and fuse panel cover. Verify that all connectors are fully seated with locking tabs in place, and that all wires are secured with cable ties.
Yes, the Curt 56145 is designed specifically for the Chrysler 300C.
Drilling a 3/32" hole may be required if no suitable existing grounding point is available on the vehicle's frame for the white ground wire. The manual recommends locating an existing screw with nut first before drilling.
The Curt 56145 uses a 10 amp fuse, which is provided in the kit.
Remove all trunk floor covers, the rear scuff panel, and on both sides remove the plastic fastener and cargo loop holding the felt trunk liner in place.
The black converter box is mounted to a flat spot on the vehicle's frame using the double-sided tape provided.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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