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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P1,P2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:

CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2007 - 2010 | Honda Element | SC |
Yes, the 07-10 HONDA Element SC 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1363 (Part #HBCW1363) is designed to fit the 2007-2010 Honda Element.
The 07-10 HONDA Element SC 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1363 (Part #HBCW1363) fits 2007-2010 Honda Element models. The 2010 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 07-10 HONDA Element SC 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1363 (Part #HBCW1363) fits the following vehicles: 2007-2010 Honda Element. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 07-10 HONDA Element SC 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1363 (Part #HBCW1363) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT hitch 11406 is designed for Honda Fit models from 2015 to present with hatchback body style. Verify your vehicle year and body style match these specifications before purchasing.
The CURT 11406 has a gross load capacity of 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
The CURT 11406 is designed for use with ball mount 45521. Euro mount options are also available: 45571 (1 7/8" ball) and 45572 (2" ball).
You will need: ratchet, torque wrench, 6" extension, 9/16" socket, 11/16" socket, and safety glasses. No power tools or drilling equipment is required.
No, the CURT 11406 requires no drilling. It uses existing access holes in the frame rails and the fishwire hardware technique to secure the carriage bolts.
Two people may be required to ease installation, though the manual does not specify whether a single person can complete it. If you are hesitant to undertake the task on your own, CURT recommends contacting an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
You do not need to remove the muffler completely. You must lower the exhaust by removing the two rear-most rubber isolators from the muffler at the start of installation, then raise and secure it back into position at the end. The muffler hangers may need to be bent slightly for clearance.
The reverse fishwire technique is referenced in the installation instructions for securing carriage bolts through existing frame rail holes. The manual states to "reverse fishwire a 7/16-14 x 1 1/2" carriage bolt and SP2 spacer through the existing hole" on the driver side and a 7/16-14 x 1" bolt on the passenger side, and to leave fishwires attached to prevent loss of hardware inside the frame rail. A detailed diagram is referenced but not provided in this manual excerpt.
Torque all 7/16" hardware to 70 ft-lbs. Torque all 3/8" hardware to 45 ft-lbs. These specifications apply to the carriage bolts, flange nuts, and U-bolt fasteners.
1. Lower the exhaust by removing the two rear-most rubber isolators from the muffler. 2. On the driver side, reverse fishwire a 7/16-14 x 1 1/2" carriage bolt and SP2 spacer through the existing hole. On the passenger side, reverse fishwire a 7/16-14 x 1" carriage bolt and SP2 spacer through the existing hole. Leave fishwires attached. 3. Insert the 3/8" U-bolt through the tow loop, raise the hitch into position, and loosely secure it using 3/8" flange nuts. 4. Place the SP22 spacer on top of the driver side plate and secure the hitch to the frame rails using 7/16" flange nuts. 5. Torque all 7/16" hardware to 70 ft-lbs and all 3/8" hardware to 45 ft-lbs. 6. Raise and secure the exhaust back into position, bending muffler hangers slightly if needed for clearance.
The parts list includes: one 3/8-16 x 1.00 x 1.88" U-bolt, one 7/16-14 UNC 1" carriage bolt (part 10-10311), one 7/16-14 UNC 1-1/2" carriage bolt (part 10-10282), two 7/16" fishwires, two 7/16-14 UNC serrated flange nuts (part 20-00103), two .250 x .88 x 2.25" square hole spacers (CM-SP2), one .250 x 1.50 x 1.50" round hole spacer (CM-SP22), and two 3/8-16 UNC serrated flange nuts (part 20-00099).
The manual specifies that the longer 7/16-14 x 1 1/2" carriage bolt must be installed on the driver side and the shorter 7/16-14 x 1" bolt on the passenger side, but does not explain the reason. This is a required specification for proper installation.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning installation. If you are hesitant to undertake the task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
All non-trailer loads (wheel-less loads) applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. CURT recommends the use of 18050 stabilizing straps for all non-trailer loads.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify the interval for these checks, so consult the vehicle manufacturer's maintenance schedule or contact CURT technical support at 1-877-287-8634 for guidance.
CURT Manufacturing LLC. warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when the product is returned, prepaid, with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse, or improper installation of this product voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and specifically excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Call CURT technical support at 1-877-287-8634. You can also visit www.curtmfg.com for more information or www.hitchinfo.com for helpful towing tips.
Yes, the CURT 11406 is designed specifically for Honda Fit hatchback models from 2015 to present.
The CURT 11406 has a gross load capacity of 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight, but you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No, the CURT 11406 requires no drilling. It uses existing frame rail access holes and fishwire hardware.
You need a ratchet, torque wrench, 6" extension, 9/16" socket, 11/16" socket, and safety glasses. No power tools or drilling equipment is required.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps, or the warranty is voided.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, CURT part 56395 is designed for Honda Fit passenger cars. The wiring harness connects to the taillight circuits on both the driver and passenger sides of the vehicle.
The CURT 56395 is a custom wiring harness that integrates with your Honda Fit's taillight circuits. It includes a converter box and a 4-flat connector for trailer lighting. The harness carries signal circuits (3.0 amps per side) and tail/running circuits (6.0 amps total).
You will need: ratchet, ratchet extension, 8mm socket, flat blade screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, and cutting tool. A drill may be needed if a suitable grounding point with an existing screw is not available.
The kit includes: a custom wiring harness with yellow and green wire ends, a black converter box, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a provided screw for grounding, cable ties, sealant, double-sided tape, and a 4-flat dust cover.
The manual does not explicitly require battery disconnection. However, the manual does specify that the battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp max fuse. Refer to the included CME-PCL-INS sheet for battery power wire routing details.
Open the trunk and remove all floor coverings and storage trays. Remove the scuff panel by pulling straight up. Locate the driver side taillight and remove the two 8mm fasteners securing it. Gently pull the taillight rearward to access the wiring harness connectors on the back. Separate the connectors carefully without damaging the locking tabs. Repeat on the passenger side after routing the harness.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. Step 9 instructs you to locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground wire screw. The grounding point should be located near the connector on the vehicle frame, in an area free of rust, dirt and paint.
Yes. You must locate the grommet behind the taillight where the vehicle taillight wiring passes from inside the cabin to the taillight. Remove the grommet and cut a slit large enough to route the CURT wiring harness through. After routing the harness, reseat the grommet and use the provided sealant to seal the cut and around all wires.
Route the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire out through the slit in the grommet opening. Insert the yellow wire end between the separated taillight connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat the process on the passenger side using the harness end with the green wire.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape.
When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly. Once installed, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer.
Reinstall all items removed during installation, including trunk floor coverings, storage trays, scuff panel, side felt liner, and taillights. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
Yes, the CURT 56395 is designed specifically for Honda Fit passenger cars.
You need: ratchet, ratchet extension, 8mm socket, flat blade screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, and cutting tool. A drill may be needed for the ground wire screw.
Drilling may be required if no existing screw is available for the ground wire connection. If needed, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. You must also cut a slit in the grommet to route the harness.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this can cause overheating and fire.
Test for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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