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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2008 - 2010 | Honda Accord | Coupe |
The 08-10 HONDA Accord Coupe 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1317 (Part #HBCW1317) fits the following vehicles: 2008-2010 Honda Accord. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 08-10 HONDA Accord Coupe 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1317 (Part #HBCW1317) fits 2008-2010 Honda Accord models. The 2010 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 08-10 HONDA Accord Coupe 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1317 (Part #HBCW1317) is designed to fit the 2008-2010 Honda Accord.
The 08-10 HONDA Accord Coupe 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1317 (Part #HBCW1317) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, Curt 11327 is designed for 2003–2007 Honda Accord in Sedan, Coupe, and Hybrid body styles. Confirm your model year and body style match before purchasing.
The Curt 11327 is designed for 2003–2007 Honda Accord vehicles. It is compatible with Sedan, Coupe, and Hybrid body styles within this model year range.
Gross load capacity is 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The tongue weight capacity is 200 lbs when the hitch is used as a weight-carrying hitch. Always verify that your vehicle's manufacturer-recommended towing capacity is not exceeded.
The Curt 11327 is designed for use with ball mount #D-20 / 45520.
Required tools: 3/8" drive ratchet, 3/4" and 11/16" and 10mm sockets (3/8" drive), 3/8" drive torque wrench, and power drill with 5/8" bit.
The kit includes: one 7/16" fishwire, one 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 carriage bolt (1-3/4") with flange nut, two 7/16-14 UNC grade 8 carriage bolts (1-1/2" each) with flange nuts, and two 0.250 × 1.00 × 2.50" square hole spacers.
The supplied 7/16" fishwire is used to pull the 7/16" carriage bolts and spacers through the vehicle frame access holes and into the existing holes in the frame rail. This allows you to route hardware through the frame without removing the frame.
Yes. You must lower the exhaust system to access the frame rails and heat shields. Be careful not to allow mufflers to fall under their own weight. The exhaust is re-installed after hitch installation.
Be careful not to allow mufflers to fall under their own weight when lowering the exhaust system. Support the exhaust adequately to prevent injury or damage.
Yes. You must mark and drill a 5/8" hole in the heat shield 4 1/2" back from the forward-most hole on the frame rail. Mark holes and hold the hitch in position to check before drilling. Remove heat shields to drill.
A 5/8" hole must be drilled in the heat shield. The hole is located 4 1/2" back from the forward-most hole on the frame rail. Mark the hole and hold the hitch in position to verify placement before drilling. Remove the heat shield to drill.
No. The manual specifies that heat shields must be removed before drilling the 5/8" hole. After drilling, the heat shields are re-installed.
1. Lower the exhaust system carefully. 2. Mark and drill 5/8" holes in heat shields 4 1/2" back from the forward-most frame rail hole (remove heat shields first). 3. Use fishwire to pull 7/16" carriage bolts and spacers through frame access holes into existing frame holes (repeat for both sides). 4. Re-install heat shields. 5. Raise hitch over vehicle tow loop and secure with 1/2" carriage bolt and flange nut (finger tighten; support hitch so receiver tube does not rotate). 6. Rotate hitch straps to frame rails and secure with 7/16" flange nuts. 7. Torque all 7/16" fasteners to 70 lb-ft and all 1/2" fasteners to 110 lb-ft. 8. Raise exhaust and re-install rubber isolators.
Support the hitch so the receiver tube does not rotate and hit the bumper fascia. The hitch is raised into position over the vehicle tow loop and initially secured with the 1/2" carriage bolt and flange nut (finger tightened). The hitch straps are then rotated to the frame rails and secured with 7/16" flange nuts.
Fishwire is a flexible wire tool supplied with the kit. It is used to pull the 7/16" carriage bolts and spacers through the vehicle frame access holes and into the existing holes in the frame rail. This allows you to route hardware through the frame without disassembly.
Torque all 7/16" fasteners to 70 lb-ft and all 1/2" fasteners to 110 lb-ft.
All 7/16" fasteners on the Curt 11327 must be torqued to 70 lb-ft.
All 1/2" fasteners on the Curt 11327 must be torqued to 110 lb-ft.
The 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 carriage bolt is 1-3/4" long. It is used to secure the hitch to the vehicle tow loop and is torqued to 110 lb-ft.
The 7/16-14 UNC grade 8 carriage bolts are 1-1/2" long. Two are included in the kit and are torqued to 70 lb-ft each.
Two square hole spacers are included, each measuring 0.250 × 1.00 × 2.50 inches. These are routed through the frame access holes along with the 7/16" carriage bolts.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The Curt 11327 has a gross load capacity of 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight, but your vehicle's manufacturer limit may be lower and must be observed.
After installation, verify that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. Periodically re-check the hitch during use to ensure fasteners remain tight and components remain in good condition.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify an exact interval, but regular inspection before and after towing is recommended.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56011 custom wiring harness is compatible with Honda Accord coupes. However, if your vehicle has LED brake lights, you should verify compatibility with the manufacturer, as the manual lists separate compatibility for Accord coupes with and without LED brake lights.
The Curt 56011 is compatible with Honda Civic sedans, with one exclusion: hybrid models are not supported. If you have a non-hybrid Civic sedan, the harness will fit.
No. The Curt 56011 is not compatible with Mazda 3 Grand Touring models from 2010–2013. Other Mazda 3 model years and trims may be compatible; check with the manufacturer for your specific year and trim.
Yes, the Curt 56011 custom wiring harness is compatible with Mazda CX-5 vehicles.
Yes, the Curt 56011 custom wiring harness is compatible with Mitsubishi Galant vehicles.
Yes, the Curt 56011 is compatible with Honda Fit. During installation, you must use the blue three-pin connector, not the green three-pin connector, when connecting to the vehicle's taillight wiring harness.
The Curt 56011 has two amperage ratings: signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side, and tail/running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
You will need: a ratchet, 10mm socket, Phillips screwdriver, and a panel trim removal tool. The manual also recommends having a test light or properly wired trailer available to test the harness after installation.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. This is the first step in the installation process and is essential for safety.
You must remove the rear access covers on both sides of the vehicle, all trunk floor coverings, and the rear scuff panel. These items must be removed to access the taillight wiring harness connectors.
Locate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors inside the rear access panel. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors on the driver side, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the passenger side using the harness end with the green wire.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. When not in use, the 4-flat connector should be rolled up and stored in a convenient, out-of-the-way location.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
If you need to drill a grounding point for the white ground wire, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint before securing the ring terminal and provided screw.
After routing the wiring harness, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This helps prevent damage and keeps the installation neat.
After installation is complete and the battery is reconnected, test the wiring harness for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the harness will function properly.
Reinstall all items you removed during installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal, and install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Test the harness for proper function using a test light or a properly wired trailer.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. The signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side and tail/running circuits at 6.0 amps total.
The Curt 56011 fits Honda Accord coupe, Accord sedan, Civic sedan (non-hybrid), Fit, Mazda 3 (excluding Grand Touring 2010–2013), CX-5, and Mitsubishi Galant. LED brake light compatibility varies; check with the manufacturer for your specific vehicle.
You need a ratchet, 10mm socket, Phillips screwdriver, and panel trim removal tool. A test light or properly wired trailer is recommended for post-installation testing.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation. Reconnect it after all installation steps are complete.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection if no existing screw is available in the vehicle frame. If drilling is needed, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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