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2010 - 2016 Land Rover LR4
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 600 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 4,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | n/a |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | n/a |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S6 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2010 - 2016 | Land Rover LR4 | — |
The 10-16 Land Rover LR4 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1653 (Part #HBCW1653) fits 2010-2016 Land Rover LR4 models. The 2016 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 10-16 Land Rover LR4 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1653 (Part #HBCW1653) fits the following vehicles: 2010-2016 Land Rover LR4. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 10-16 Land Rover LR4 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1653 (Part #HBCW1653) is designed to fit the 2010-2016 Land Rover LR4.
The 10-16 Land Rover LR4 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1653 (Part #HBCW1653) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part number 13128 is designed for Land Rover Range Rover Evoque models from 2012-Present with crossover body style. This is a weight-carrying hitch with a gross load capacity of 4,000 lbs trailer weight and 600 lbs tongue weight.
Required tools: torque wrench, ratchet, sockets (10mm, 15mm, 22mm, 3/4"), T-30 Torx bit, tape measure, cut-off wheel, tin snips, pry bar, masking tape, aviation shears, and safety glasses. The manual notes that using proper tools will greatly improve installation quality and reduce time required.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing weldnuts in the tow hook bracket on the passenger side frame rail and a weldnut plate with tube spacers in the driver side frame. Reverse fishwire fasteners are used instead.
Yes. The exhaust must be temporarily lowered by removing one bolt and disconnecting two rubber isolators. The rear heat shield must be removed or trimmed. The vehicle fascia must be trimmed approximately 3 3/4" long x 1" wide. These are required modifications for proper hitch installation.
Torque all 1/2" fasteners to 110 ft-lbs, all M12 fasteners to 79 ft-lbs, and all M14 fasteners to 126 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness. Periodically recheck all fasteners after installation.
The hitch has a gross load capacity of 4,000 lbs trailer weight and 600 lbs tongue weight. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower. Always verify your vehicle's specifications before towing.
Non-trailer (wheel-less) loads must be supported by Curt 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. Do not apply non-trailer loads without these straps.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This should be done regularly to maintain proper hitch function and safety.
The kit includes: 1 M14x2 hex head cap screw (part 10-10515), 1 M14 washer (part 30-00164), 1 1/2-13 UNC carriage bolt 1-3/4" long (part 10-10272), 1 square hole spacer 0.250 x 1.00 x 3.00" (part CM-SP6), 1 1/2" washer (part 30-00149), 1 1/2-13 UNC hex nut (part 20-00171), 3 M12x1.75 flange bolts (part 10-10516), and 1 piece of 1/2" fishwire (part 1_2 FISHWIRE). All fasteners are included; no additional hardware is needed.
No. The Curt 13128 is specifically designed for the Land Rover Range Rover Evoque (2012-Present, crossover body style). It is not compatible with other Land Rover models. Always verify the part number matches your vehicle before purchasing.
The manual recommends that 2 people may be required to ease installation. While one person may be able to complete the installation, having a second person will help, particularly when raising the hitch into position and managing the exhaust system.
The first step is to lower the exhaust by removing the bolt that attaches the exhaust hanger bracket on the passenger side frame rail, then disconnecting the 2 rubber isolators. Support the exhaust to prevent damage. This provides clearance for hitch installation.
Remove the rear heat shield at the vehicle fascia by removing 4 hex bolts and 8 Torx bolts. After removal, the heat shield may either be trimmed and reinstalled or permanently removed. If trimming, refer to the Fascia Trim Diagram for dimensions (approximately 3 3/4" long x 1" wide).
The 1/2" fishwire carriage bolt and spacer are reversed up through a slot in the driver side frame rail and back down through the slot. This fastener secures the hitch to the existing weldnut plate with tube spacers in the driver side frame. It must be installed before raising the hitch into position.
The fascia must be trimmed approximately 3 3/4" long x 1" wide, centered on the vehicle. Refer to the Fascia Trim Diagram in the manual for the exact location and dimensions. Use tin snips or a cut-off wheel to make the trim.
When raising the hitch into position, be careful not to push the 1/2" carriage bolt back into the frame. The fishwire fastener must remain properly positioned through the driver side frame rail slot during this step.
After all fasteners are installed and torqued to specification, raise the exhaust back into position. This restores the vehicle to normal operation. Installation is then complete.
All M12 fasteners (part number 10-10516, flange bolts M12x1.75) must be torqued to 79 ft-lbs. There are 3 of these fasteners in the kit. Use a calibrated torque wrench to ensure proper tightness.
All M14 fasteners (part number 10-10515, hex head cap screws M14x2) must be torqued to 126 ft-lbs. There is 1 of these fasteners in the kit. Use a calibrated torque wrench to ensure proper tightness.
All 1/2" fasteners must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs. These include the carriage bolt (part 10-10272) and the hex nut (part 20-00171). Use a calibrated torque wrench to ensure proper tightness.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. The manual emphasizes this as a required safety precaution, particularly when using cutting tools like the cut-off wheel and tin snips.
Curt Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If defective, Curt may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration, misuse, or improper installation voids the warranty. Curt's liability is limited to repair or replacement and excludes incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Call Curt Manufacturing technical support at 1-877-287-8634. For additional information, visit www.curtmfg.com or www.hitchinfo.com for helpful towing tips.
The manual specifically warns to be careful not to push the 1/2" carriage bolt back into the frame when raising the hitch into position. If this occurs, you must lower the hitch and reposition the fishwire fastener up through the slot in the driver side frame rail and back down through the slot before attempting to raise the hitch again.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. If looseness is detected, use a torque wrench to verify that all fasteners meet specification: 1/2" fasteners to 110 ft-lbs, M12 fasteners to 79 ft-lbs, and M14 fasteners to 126 ft-lbs. Retighten any fasteners that have loosened.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, Curt part 56159 is designed for the Land Rover Evoque. The harness connects to the vehicle's 8-pin trailer wiring connector located behind the bumper.
The 8-pin trailer wiring connector is located behind the bumper. Remove the cover before inserting the harness connector.
Locate the 8-pin trailer wiring connector behind the bumper and remove its cover. Insert the harness connector into the vehicle's connector, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location. Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame. Alternatively, drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided.
Drilling is optional. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle's frame near the connector, you can use that as a grounding point. If not, drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided.
Drill a 3/32" hole for the ground wire. Before drilling, verify that miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface are not present to avoid damage and personal injury.
The harness includes an eyelet, screw for grounding, and cable ties for securing loose wires.
Before drilling, verify that miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface are not present. This prevents damage to hidden components and personal injury.
Yes. It connects to the 8-pin trailer wiring connector behind the bumper.
No, if an existing screw with nut is available in the frame. If not, drill a 3/32" hole for the ground wire.
The harness includes an eyelet, screw, and cable ties. Ensure the 8-pin connector is fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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