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1998 - 2004 Land Rover Discovery
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| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 4,500 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | n/a |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | n/a |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 675 LB |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1998 - 2004 | Land Rover Discovery | — |
Yes, CURT part number 13396 is designed for 2015-present Land Rover Discovery Sport SUVs. The manual confirms fitment for this model and year range.
Yes. The manual states the hitch is designed for 2015-present Land Rover Discovery Sport, which includes 2024 models.
The CURT 13396 is rated for a maximum trailer weight of 4,500 lbs and tongue weight of 675 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
No. The manual explicitly states 'NO DRILLING REQUIRED' for this installation.
You will need: ratchet, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, 10mm socket, 18mm socket, 22mm socket, die grinder with cut-off wheel, masking tape or marker, tape measure, and safety glasses. The manual notes that using proper tools will greatly improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
The kit includes 6 flat washers (part 30-00131), 6 lock washers (part 30-00132), and 6 hex bolts (part 10-10471). These fasteners are used to secure the hitch to the frame.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual notes this as a helpful tip to improve the installation experience.
Professional installation takes approximately 90 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation takes approximately 45 minutes. These times assume you have the proper tools and follow all instructions.
The installation is rated as moderate to challenging. Part removal is easy, but the underbody panel and lower bumper cover fascia removal is moderate, and the lower exhaust work is challenging. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and suggests contacting an authorized CURT installer if you are hesitant to undertake the task.
Yes. You must remove the plastic underbody panel and lower bumper cover fascia to access the frame for hitch installation. This requires removing 8 nuts and 10 bolts using a 10mm socket.
Yes, you must remove the lower exhaust hangers. Remove 1 bolt attaching the rubber exhaust isolator brackets to the frame using a 10mm socket, lift the brackets off, and remove 1 rubber exhaust hanger further forward under the vehicle. The manual emphasizes that you must support the forward exhaust when removing hangers to prevent damage.
If present, there are 2 hex flange bolts on the passenger side of the frame. The manual instructs you to remove these using an 18mm socket and return them to the vehicle owner. These appear to be factory fasteners that must be removed to allow hitch installation.
Raise the hitch into position and loosely install the 6 supplied hex bolts with lock washers and flat washers using a 22mm socket. Do not fully tighten at this stage. Once all bolts are installed loosely, torque all 14mm fasteners to 88 lb-ft.
All 14mm fasteners must be torqued to 88 lb-ft. Install the bolts loosely first, then apply final torque once all 6 bolts are in place.
Yes. You must trim the plastic underbody panel as needed and trim the lower bumper cover fascia as shown in the installation diagram. The manual notes that trim dimensions are reference only. After trimming, reinstall both components and the exhaust.
The manual specifies using a die grinder with a cut-off wheel to trim the plastic underbody panel and lower bumper cover fascia. Masking tape or a marker is recommended to mark trim lines before cutting.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Additionally, you must support the forward exhaust when removing hangers to prevent it from dropping or being damaged. The manual also emphasizes reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning installation.
You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. While the CURT 13396 is rated for 4,500 lbs trailer weight and 675 lbs tongue weight, your Land Rover Discovery Sport may have a lower manufacturer limit. Always consult your vehicle's owner manual and follow the more conservative limit.
After installation, verify that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. The manual recommends periodically checking the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners remain tight and structural components remain in good condition during ownership.
The manual recommends periodically checking the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. While a specific interval is not provided, regular inspection before towing is a best practice.
The manual does not specify a retorque interval. However, it recommends periodically checking that all fasteners are tight. It is good practice to check fastener tightness after the first few towing trips and then periodically thereafter.
Yes, the CURT 13396 is designed for 2015-present Land Rover Discovery Sport SUVs.
4,500 lbs trailer weight and 675 lbs tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No drilling required. Trimming of plastic underbody panel and bumper cover fascia is required.
Ratchet, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, 10mm/18mm/22mm sockets, die grinder with cut-off wheel, masking tape, tape measure, and safety glasses.
Professional installation: 90 minutes. Novice DIY installation: 45 minutes. Two people may be required to ease installation.
All 14mm fasteners must be torqued to 88 lb-ft. Install bolts loosely first, then apply final torque once all 6 bolts are in place.
Wear safety glasses at all times. Support the forward exhaust when removing hangers. Never exceed vehicle manufacturer's towing capacity.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56297 is designed for the Land Rover Discovery Sport. It is categorized for SUVs, Mini & Full-Sized Vans (S) and includes wiring connections for both driver side (S1, behind driver side taillight housing) and passenger side (S2, behind passenger side taillight housing) taillights.
The Curt 56297 fits the Land Rover Discovery Sport.
The Curt 56297 has a maximum rating of 3.0 amps per side for signal circuits and 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. You must not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse.
You will need: flat blade screwdriver, wire stripper, wire crimper, cutting tool, and fishwire. If you need to drill a grounding point, you will also need a drill capable of making a 3/32" pilot hole.
Flat blade screwdriver, wire stripper, wire crimper, cutting tool, fishwire, and a drill for a 3/32" pilot hole (if drilling a grounding point).
Yes. The first step of installation is to locate the vehicle battery on the driver side under the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal. The battery must remain disconnected until all wiring is complete and you are ready to reinstall items and reconnect the terminal in Step 12.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation and reconnect it only after all wiring is complete.
Open the vehicle tailgate. On the driver side, locate and remove the side access panel (B). Locate and remove the white fastener securing the taillight in place (C). Remove the taillight assembly by gently pulling rearward and out, taking care not to damage the alignment tabs (D). Behind the taillight, you will find the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors. Separate these connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs (E). Repeat this process on the passenger side.
After separating the vehicle taillight connectors, insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors on the driver side. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the passenger side using the harness end with the green wire. The harness is designed to sit between the original connectors, allowing the vehicle's taillight to function with the trailer wiring.
The driver side uses the harness end with the yellow wire. The passenger side uses the harness end with the green wire. The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery (routing shown on the included CME-PCL-INS sheet). A white ground wire is used for the grounding connection.
Drilling is not required if a suitable grounding point already exists near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable grounding point is available, you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Only if no existing grounding point is available. If needed, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
If you need to drill a grounding point, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint before securing the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
In the space directly beneath the driver side taillight, pull back on the foam block to allow access. Route the wiring harness end with the green wire underneath the vehicle to the passenger side. Continue up the opening behind the rear bumper fascia and taillight assembly. When routing wires, be careful to avoid any hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank or any other areas that might pinch or break the wire.
Locate a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
Mount it on a flat, clean surface away from spray and debris from the rear wheels and road, using the provided double-sided tape.
When the 4-flat connector is not in use, roll it up and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
When routing wires, be careful to avoid any hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank or any other areas that might pinch or break the wire. Additionally, before drilling any grounding point, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating.
All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness will function properly. Once installed, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. After installation is complete, reinstall all items removed during installation and reconnect the negative battery terminal. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Use a test light or connect a properly wired trailer to verify proper function.
Yes. After installation is complete and the negative battery terminal is reconnected, install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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