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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 675 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 4,500 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 4,500 LB |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2010 - 2016 | Lincoln MKT | Excluding EcoBoost |
The 10-16 Lincoln MKT Excluding EcoBoost 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1740 (Part #HBCW1740) fits the following vehicles: 2010-2016 Lincoln MKT. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 10-16 Lincoln MKT Excluding EcoBoost 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1740 (Part #HBCW1740) is designed to fit the 2010-2016 Lincoln MKT.
The 10-16 Lincoln MKT Excluding EcoBoost 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1740 (Part #HBCW1740) fits 2010-2016 Lincoln MKT models. The 2016 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 10-16 Lincoln MKT Excluding EcoBoost 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1740 (Part #HBCW1740) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 13452 is designed for 2015-2020 Ford Edge, Lincoln MKX, and Lincoln Nautilus models. The hitch is a weight-carrying receiver hitch with a maximum trailer weight capacity of 4500 lbs and tongue weight capacity of 675 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch, or 4500 lbs trailer weight and 675 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight distribution hitch. Always verify your vehicle's manufacturer towing capacity before towing, as you must never exceed it.
The hitch weight is 45 lbs.
CURT 13452 has a maximum trailer weight capacity of 4500 lbs and tongue weight capacity of 675 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch. When used as a weight distribution hitch, the capacity is also 4500 lbs trailer weight and 675 lbs tongue weight. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than the hitch capacity.
Required tools are: safety glasses, ratchet, 6-inch socket extension, 5mm socket, 10mm socket, 7/16-inch socket, T20 Torx bit socket, screwdriver, die grinder, and torque wrench. Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
No, drilling is not required. The installation uses existing frame holes and does not require any new holes to be drilled.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required.
Professional installation time is approximately 90 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation time is approximately 37 minutes. Actual time may vary depending on experience and familiarity with the vehicle.
The kit includes: 8 carriage bolts (7/16-14 UNC, 1-3/4 inch, Grade 8, yellow zinc, part 10-10314); 6 serrated flange nuts (7/16-14 UNC, Grade 8, yellow zinc, part 20-00103); 2 hex nuts (7/16-14 UNC, Grade 8, yellow zinc, part 20-00147); 2 lock washers (7/16 inch, yellow zinc, part 30-00184); 8 square hole spacers (0.250 x 1.00 x 2.50 inch, part CM-SP11); and 8 pieces of 7/16-inch fishwire (part 7_16 FISHWIRE).
Installation follows this sequence: (1) Remove bottom side plastic panel by removing 2 bolts on fascia and 2 flange nuts under the car by the muffler on each side; (2) For models with heat shield, remove center plastic panel with heat shields by removing 6 bolts and 1 flange nut; (3) For Lincoln models, remove bumper fascia by removing 7 push fasteners in wheel well and 1 bolt on each side; (4) For Lincoln models, disconnect electrical connectors from fascia; (5) For Ford models, lower muffler by removing exhaust hanger rod from rubber isolator on both sides and support with stand; (6) Use die grinder to cut off stud above center of muffler; (7) Feed carriage bolts and spacers through 4 large frame holes using fishwire; (8) Feed fishwires through 4 holes in hitch; (9) Raise hitch into position by sliding over passenger side exhaust; (10) Pull fishwires for 2 side plate bolts to hold hitch in place; (11) Pull fishwires for 2 bottom plate bolts; (12) Remove fishwires and loosely install 3 flanged hex nuts and 1 lock washer and hex nut on each side; (13) Torque all 7/16-inch fasteners to 59 lb-ft; (14) Reinstall all panels, fascia, wheel wells, muffler, and reconnect electrical connectors.
The manual instructs to use a die grinder to cut off the stud above the center of the muffler in Step 6, but does not specify whether this is a permanent modification or temporary removal. Contact CURT Technical Support at 877-287-8634 for clarification on whether the stud can be reinstalled or if this is a permanent alteration.
All 7/16-inch fasteners must be torqued to 59 lb-ft. This is applied in Step 13 after all bolts and nuts are loosely installed. Lock washers and hex nuts should be placed on the bolt closest to the gusset on the hitch.
Fishwire is used to feed carriage bolts and spacers through the 4 large holes in the frame (Step 7) and then through the 4 holes in the hitch (Step 8). The fishwires are then pulled to guide the bolts into position for the side plate bolts (Step 10) and bottom plate bolts (Step 11) before being removed and replaced with nuts and washers (Step 12). Eight pieces of 7/16-inch fishwire are included in the kit.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected. However, for Lincoln models, Step 4 requires disconnecting electrical connectors attached to the fascia and vehicle. Contact CURT Technical Support at 877-287-8634 if you have concerns about electrical safety during installation.
For Ford models, the exhaust hanger rod must be removed from the rubber isolator on both sides to lower the muffler. This is necessary to provide clearance for raising the hitch into position. The muffler must be supported with a stand to prevent damage. The muffler is then reinstalled in Step 14.
Bumper fascia removal is recommended for easier installation on Lincoln models. The removal process involves removing 7 push fasteners in the wheel well and 1 bolt on each side, then gently pulling the wheel well trim. The fascia is then disconnected from electrical connectors in the trunk. All components are reinstalled in Step 14.
The hitch is raised into position by sliding it over the passenger side exhaust first (Step 9). The fishwires for the 2 side plate bolts on each side are then pulled to hold the hitch in place (Step 10), followed by pulling the fishwires for the 2 bottom plate bolts on each side (Step 11).
On each side of the hitch, 3 flanged hex nuts (part 20-00103) and 1 lock washer (part 30-00184) and 1 hex nut (part 20-00147) are installed. The lock washer and hex nut should be placed on the bolt closest to the gusset on the hitch. All fasteners are torqued to 59 lb-ft.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a retorque interval, but recommends regular inspection as part of vehicle maintenance.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. When lowering the muffler on Ford models, a stand must be used to support and prevent damage. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse of, or improper installation of this product voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and specifically excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
CURT 13452 complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5 and SAE J684.
Yes, CURT 13452 is designed for 2015-2020 Ford Edge, Lincoln MKX, and Lincoln Nautilus. Maximum capacity is 4500 lbs trailer weight and 675 lbs tongue weight, but never exceed your vehicle's manufacturer towing capacity.
You need: safety glasses, ratchet, 6-inch socket extension, 5mm/10mm/7/16-inch sockets, T20 Torx bit socket, screwdriver, die grinder, and torque wrench. No drilling is required.
Professional installation takes approximately 90 minutes; DIY installation approximately 37 minutes. Two people may be required to ease installation.
All 7/16-inch fasteners must be torqued to 59 lb-ft after loose installation is complete.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and structural components are sound. No specific retorque interval is stated in the manual.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56298 custom wiring harness is designed for Lincoln MKX vehicles. It is installed behind the driver and passenger side taillight housings (locations S1 and S2). Verify your vehicle matches the application before purchasing.
The harness has a maximum 10-amp fuse rating for the battery connection. Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side, and tail/running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding this can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
You will need: 5.5mm socket, T-20 Torx bit, ratchet, panel trim removal tool, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, crimping tool, and cutting tool. A soft pry tool is also recommended to avoid damage when removing the taillight and bumper fascia.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. This is the first step in the installation process and is required for safety.
Open the tailgate. Locate and remove the two Phillips screws holding the taillight in place. Gently pull the taillight to the side of the vehicle and rearward. Use a soft pry tool on the leading edge of the taillight to assist removal. Take care not to damage the locking tabs on the connectors when separating them from the taillight housing.
1. Starting with the locking tab closest to the rear hatch, work your way around and down to the rear wheel well, releasing all locking tabs with a soft pry tool. 2. Release the six locking tabs holding the rear wheel well trim panel in place. 3. Locate and remove the T-20 Torx bumper retaining fastener. 4. Underneath the vehicle, remove the 5.5mm fasteners behind the rear tire. 5. Use a soft pry tool to gently pry or pull at the edges near the hatch opening until the top retainers are loose and the remaining tabs pop free.
Mount the black converter module on a flat, clean surface along the bumper frame that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Use the provided double-sided tape to adhere it. Mounting it in a protected area is critical—failure to do so can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire.
Drilling may be required for the grounding point. You will need to locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable existing point is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt, and paint. Always check for hidden items behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
The installation uses two types of fasteners: T-20 Torx fasteners (bumper retaining fastener) and 5.5mm fasteners (located underneath the vehicle behind the rear tire). The manual does not specify torque values for these fasteners; refer to your vehicle owner's manual for proper torque specifications.
Route the custom wiring harness along the vehicle using the vehicle's existing wiring harness as a guide, ensuring the black converter module reaches the bumper frame. The harness end with the yellow wire connects to the driver side taillight connectors, and the harness end with the green wire connects to the passenger side. The 4-flat connector should be routed to the center of the vehicle when in use, and rolled up and stored in a convenient, out-of-the-way location when not in use. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
The harness includes a yellow wire (driver side connection), a green wire (passenger side connection), a black power wire (from vehicle battery), and a white ground wire (for grounding point connection). The black converter module is also part of the assembly.
The kit includes the custom wiring harness with yellow and green wire ends, a black converter module, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a provided screw for grounding, double-sided tape for mounting the converter module, cable ties for securing loose wires, and a 4-flat dust cover. Refer to the included CME-PCL-INS sheet for battery power routing details.
After installation is complete, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly. Reconnect the negative battery terminal and reinstall all items removed during installation before testing.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a maximum 10-amp fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Yes, you must locate and unplug the rear collision connector that is exposed on the driver side in the bumper frame. This is done after removing the bumper fascia and before installing the custom wiring harness.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt, and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw.
The Curt 56298 custom wiring harness is designed for Lincoln MKX vehicles.
You will need: 5.5mm socket, T-20 Torx bit, ratchet, panel trim removal tool, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, crimping tool, cutting tool, and a soft pry tool.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Reconnect it after all installation steps are complete.
Drilling may be required for the grounding point. If no existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
The harness has a 10-amp maximum fuse rating. Signal circuits are 3.0 amps per side; tail/running circuits are 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating.
Mount the black converter module on a flat, clean surface along the bumper frame, away from spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Use the provided double-sided tape. Improper mounting can cause product failure and fire.
Test for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer. All installation steps must be completed before testing.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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