11-16 BMW 535i xDrive Excluding GT CURT 4-flat Plug and Play Trailer WiringCURTOriginal price was $113.90. Current price is $100.76.In Stock
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| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 - 2016 | BMW 535i | Sedan, excluding GT |
The 11-16 BMW 535i Sedan, excluding GT CURT 4-flat Plug and Play Trailer Wiring (Part #CTW148) fits 2011-2016 BMW 535i models. The 2016 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 11-16 BMW 535i Sedan, excluding GT CURT 4-flat Plug and Play Trailer Wiring (Part #CTW148) fits the following vehicles: 2011-2016 BMW 535i. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 11-16 BMW 535i Sedan, excluding GT CURT 4-flat Plug and Play Trailer Wiring (Part #CTW148) is designed to fit the 2011-2016 BMW 535i.
The 11-16 BMW 535i Sedan, excluding GT CURT 4-flat Plug and Play Trailer Wiring (Part #CTW148) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The CURT 56236 is a taillight converter that adapts vehicle taillight signals to a 4-flat connector. It converts various vehicle wiring types (two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, and PWM-STT) into a standardized 4-flat output. The converter is powered by the vehicle battery and includes short circuit, overload, and thermal protection.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12 volt negative ground electrical systems. It supports four wiring types: two-wire (combined stop and turn with independent tail), three-wire (independent stop, turn and tail), PWM-ST (combined stop and tail with independent turn), and PWM-STT (combined stop, turn and tail). You must first identify your vehicle's wiring type using the testing procedure on page 2 before installation.
No. The converter is designed only for 12 volt negative ground systems. It cannot be used on 24 volt vehicles or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems.
The converter includes the black converter box, snap locks for wiring connections, double-sided tape for mounting, cable ties for securing wires, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a ground screw, and input wires (green, red, yellow, and brown). Not included are 12 gauge wire, 15 amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items can be purchased separately or as CURT part 55152 kit.
A multimeter or test light is required to identify your vehicle's wiring type. A drill with a 3/32" bit may be needed if a suitable existing screw is not available for the ground connection. A wire stripper, crimper, and basic hand tools are needed to prepare and connect the 12 gauge battery wire and butt connectors, though these are not explicitly listed in the manual.
With the vehicle running and all lights off, use a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light to probe the taillight connectors. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify the pattern. Match your results to the 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' chart on page 2. The chart shows five wiring types: two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, PWM-STT, and SUVS/vans/cars/trucks variants.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation procedure requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The battery must remain disconnected until all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed.
After identifying your vehicle's wiring type, use the 'Wiring Installation' table on page 3 to match each converter wire (green, red, yellow, brown) to the correct vehicle wire. Use the provided snap locks to attach the converter input wires to the vehicle harness wires. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks. The specific connections vary by wiring type: for example, in a two-wire system, green splices to the right stop/turn wire, red grounds with the white wire, yellow splices to the left stop/turn wire, and brown splices to the tail wire.
Locate a flat spot near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Secure it with the included cable ties. The mounting location should be clean and free of obstructions to allow proper heat dissipation.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the converter, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free of rust, dirt, and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage or personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire from the converter to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use a ring terminal to attach the black wire to the positive battery terminal. Install a 15 amp fuse in a fuse holder on the positive wire between the battery and converter. Do not exceed 15 amps. The fuse must be installed after all other steps are complete. The negative battery terminal should remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
Drilling may be required only for the ground connection. If a suitable existing screw with nut is not available in the vehicle frame near the converter, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage or personal injury. No other drilling is required for the converter installation.
The battery connection must be fuse protected with a maximum of 15 amps. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The converter is rated for 5.0 amps per signal circuit (left and right turn) and 7.5 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or the vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
12 gauge wire or larger must be used to route from the converter to the vehicle battery. The wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The converter has four input wires: green (right turn signal), red (brake/stop signal), yellow (left turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). The white wire is the ground. The specific connections to your vehicle's wires depend on your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, or PWM-STT). Refer to the 'Wiring Installation' table on page 3 for your specific wiring type.
Two testing methods are supported. With a test light: attach the ground lead to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat end, then activate the vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time and probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. With a trailer: mate the 4-flat with the trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a trailer function does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a test light. If the vehicle test light shows good function, the issue is with the trailer.
No. The converter is designed only for 12 volt negative ground systems. It is not suitable for 24 volt vehicles or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems. Additionally, the converter must not be used on vehicles where the lamp circuits exceed the product's amperage ratings (5.0 amps per signal circuit, 7.5 amps total for tail/running circuits).
Before drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground screw, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The drilling area should be free of rust, dirt, and paint.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and reinstalling all items removed during installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal. Test the converter using either a test light or by connecting a trailer and activating each light function (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) to confirm proper operation. When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location.
Pulsing lights indicate that the lamp circuits exceed the converter's ratings or there is a wiring issue with the trailer. The converter's short circuit, overload, and thermal protection features cause this pulsing behavior when overloaded. Check that your vehicle's lamp circuits do not exceed 5.0 amps per signal circuit or 7.5 amps total for tail/running circuits. If the vehicle circuits are within limits, disconnect the trailer 4-flat and test the vehicle lights with a test light. If the vehicle lights function properly, the issue is with the trailer wiring or lamps.
First, disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector. Turn off the corresponding light function on the vehicle and recheck the function with a test light attached to the 4-flat ground terminal. If the vehicle test light shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer lights or wiring, not the converter. If the vehicle test light does not show the function, the converter wiring may be incorrect; refer to the 'Wiring Installation' table on page 3 to verify your connections match your vehicle's wiring type.
The CURT 56236 is designed for 12 volt negative ground vehicles (SUVs, vans, cars, and pickup trucks) with two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, or PWM-STT taillight wiring. It does not work on 24 volt or positive ground systems. You must identify your vehicle's wiring type using a multimeter or test light before purchase to confirm compatibility.
You must source 12 gauge wire, a 15 amp fuse, a fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery connection. These items are available separately or as CURT part 55152 kit. The converter includes snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, and a ground screw.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed.
Drilling may be required only for the ground connection. If no existing screw is available in the vehicle frame, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Check for hidden items before drilling.
The battery connection must use a 15 amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating or the vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The converter is rated for 5.0 amps per signal circuit and 7.5 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or the vehicle's lamp load rating. Exceeding limits can cause overheating and fire.
First, verify that the negative battery terminal is reconnected and the 15 amp fuse is installed in the battery circuit. Check that all snap lock connections are fully seated and that the converter input wires are connected to the correct vehicle wires according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, or PWM-STT). Verify that the white ground wire is securely attached to a clean, unpainted metal surface on the vehicle frame. If all connections are correct, test the vehicle lights directly with a test light to confirm the vehicle's taillight circuits are functioning.
Verify that the converter input wires are connected to the correct vehicle wires for your specific wiring type. Incorrect connections are the most common cause of partial function loss. Check the 'Wiring Installation' table on page 3 and confirm each wire (green, red, yellow, brown) is connected to the correct vehicle wire. Also verify that the white ground wire is securely attached to a clean metal surface. If connections are correct, test the vehicle lights directly with a test light to determine if the vehicle's taillight circuits are functioning properly.
The vehicle's lamp circuits are exceeding the converter's amperage ratings. The converter is rated for 5.0 amps per signal circuit and 7.5 amps total for tail/running circuits. If the vehicle's lamp load exceeds these limits, the converter's thermal protection will activate, causing the fuse to blow or the converter to overheat. Do not replace the fuse with a higher amperage rating. Instead, reduce the lamp load by removing or replacing high-wattage bulbs, or consult the vehicle manufacturer about the lamp circuit specifications.
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