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2012 - 2015 Chevrolet Captiva Sport
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| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P1,P2 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2012 - 2015 | Chevrolet Captiva Sport | — |
The 12-15 Chevrolet Captiva Sport 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW312 (Part #HBCW312) fits 2012-2015 Chevrolet Captiva Sport models. The 2015 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 12-15 Chevrolet Captiva Sport 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW312 (Part #HBCW312) fits the following vehicles: 2012-2015 Chevrolet Captiva Sport. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 12-15 Chevrolet Captiva Sport 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW312 (Part #HBCW312) is designed to fit the 2012-2015 Chevrolet Captiva Sport.
The 12-15 Chevrolet Captiva Sport 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW312 (Part #HBCW312) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT 11900 is designed for 2016-present Cadillac CTS and CTS-V sedans. Confirm your vehicle matches the sedan body style shown in the manual before purchasing.
Yes, CURT 11900 is designed for 2016-present Chevrolet Camaro coupes. The installation steps include specific notes for Camaro models where they differ from CTS vehicles.
No. CURT 11900 is designed for 2016-present Cadillac CTS and CTS-V models only. Earlier model years are not supported.
CURT 11900 has a maximum trailer weight capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight capacity of 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
A weight-carrying hitch is designed to support trailer loads up to the specified capacity. CURT 11900 is rated for 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight. For non-trailer loads applied to the hitch, you must use CURT 18050 stabilizing straps.
Required tools: T15 Torxbit socket, T20 Torxbit socket, T45 Torxbit socket, 7mm socket, 8mm socket, 15mm socket, torque wrench, ratchet, 8-inch socket extension, plastic pry bar, aviation shears, and safety glasses. A socket set and basic hand tools are assumed.
Yes. A torque wrench is required to properly tighten the M10 fasteners to 45 ft-lbs in step 10. This is a critical safety specification.
Two people may be required to ease installation. While one person may be able to complete the work, having a second person is recommended to help manage the bumper fascia, bumper beam, and other components during removal and reinstallation.
No drilling is required. CURT 11900 uses existing vehicle studs for mounting. However, trimming of the rear bumper fascia is required using aviation shears.
Yes. The rear bumper fascia must be trimmed using aviation shears to accommodate the hitch receiver. For CTS models, the cutout should be approximately 2.50" × 5.00" centered on the fascia. For Camaro models, the cutout should be approximately 2.50" × 3.00" centered on the fascia.
Yes. The trimming of the rear bumper fascia is a permanent modification. Once cut, the fascia cannot be restored to its original condition.
For Cadillac CTS models, the approximate cutout dimension is 2.50" × 5.00", centered on the bumper fascia.
For Chevrolet Camaro models, the approximate cutout dimension is 2.50" × 3.00", centered on the bumper fascia.
Yes. The rear bumper fascia and bumper beam must be removed to access the vehicle frame studs and install the hitch. Both are reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Yes. Both taillights must be removed to access the trunk area and remove the bumper fascia. They are reinstalled in step 12 after the hitch is secured.
The bumper fascia is secured by (4) T15 screws along the wheel well (2 on each side), (12) M4 screws on the bottom, (2) M4 screws in the wheel well (1 on each side), and (2) T45 bolts inside the trunk (1 on each side). CTS-V models also have (4) T20 screws connecting the heat shield to the fascia.
CTS-V models require removal of (4) T20 Torxbit screws connecting the heat shield to the fascia in step 2. CTS models do not have this step. All other installation steps are identical.
Camaro models require removal of (4) plastic clips (2 on each side) to access the taillight in step 5, and (4) plastic wing nuts inside the trunk in step 4 instead of (2) T45 bolts. CTS models use (2) T45 bolts and (2) plastic clips. All other steps are the same.
Remove (8) M10 nuts using a 15mm socket, (4 on each side). Set the bumper beam aside for reinstallation after the hitch is mounted.
Install the hitch on the rear of the vehicle frame using the existing studs. The hitch mounts directly to these factory studs without drilling or additional modifications.
No. In step 9, loosely secure the bumper beam with M10 hardware. Do not fully tighten until step 10, when you torque all M10 hardware to 45 ft-lbs.
All M10 fasteners must be torqued to 45 ft-lbs. This includes the (8) M10 nuts securing the bumper beam to the hitch.
Yes. In step 7, you unclip the motion sensor harness on the driver side to remove the bumper fascia. In step 12, you must reinstall the bumper fascia, which includes reclipping this harness.
Yes. In step 6, you unclip the electrical harness from each taillight before removal. In step 12, you must reclip the electrical harness when reinstalling the taillights.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. CURT 11900 is rated for 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight, but your vehicle's manufacturer may specify a lower limit. Always follow the more restrictive specification.
Non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to CURT 11900 must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Do not apply non-trailer loads without these straps. See the CURT catalog or www.curtmfg.com for further information.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing CURT 11900. This is a mandatory safety requirement.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This is especially important before towing.
The manual recommends periodically checking all fasteners to ensure they remain tight. A retorque interval is not specified, but it is good practice to check fasteners before your first towing trip.
CURT 11900 is designed for use with ball mount #45521. Optional ball heads include #45571 (1 7/8" ball) and #45572 (2" ball). Verify compatibility before purchasing a ball mount.
CURT 11900 fits 2016-present Cadillac CTS(V) sedans and Chevrolet Camaro coupes only. Confirm your vehicle model and year before purchasing.
All M10 fasteners must be torqued to 45 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness.
Non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Do not apply non-trailer loads without these straps.
Periodically check all fasteners to ensure they are tight and all structural components are sound before towing.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
CURT part 56197 is designed for Chevrolet Camaro without LED taillights. The manual does not specify which model years or trim levels are compatible. Consult the Wiring Location Guide or contact CURT technical support at 1-877-287-8634 to confirm fitment for your specific Camaro.
No. The CURT 56197 is specifically designed for Chevrolet Camaro without LED taillights. If your Camaro has LED taillights, this product is not compatible.
Yes. Step 2 of the installation requires you to locate the vehicle's battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before proceeding with any wiring work.
You must remove the trunk floor coverings, the plastic covers on top of the rear taillights (three plastic fasteners on each side), and the rear scuff panel (three plastic wing nuts on each side). You will also need to pull back the felt trunk liner to access the rubber grommet leading to the back of the taillights.
Remove the rubber grommet that the taillight wire harness passes through. Make a cut in the grommet from the center outwards that is large enough to pass the T-Connector's housings through. After routing the T-Connector, re-seat the rubber grommet.
Route the T-Connector end with the yellow wire to the driver's side behind the taillight. Route the T-Connector end with the green wire to the passenger's side behind the removed scuff panel.
Locate the taillight wiring harness connectors. Separate the connectors carefully, taking care not to damage the alignment tabs. Insert the T-Connector end (yellow for driver's side, green for passenger's side) between the separated housings. Ensure the housings are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
The kit includes cable ties to secure wires to the existing wiring harness, a ring terminal, and a screw for the ground wire. The screw is used to secure the white ground wire at a suitable grounding point near the connector.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Clean the ground area of rust and dirt. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and screw provided.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole if a suitable existing grounding point is not available. Before drilling, verify that miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface will not be damaged.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing grounding point (such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame) is available, no drilling is needed. If not, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Before drilling, verify that miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface will not be damaged.
The manual does not specify a tow rating for the CURT 56197. However, it warns that exceeding the vehicle's tow rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. You must not exceed the tow vehicle's lamp load rating. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for your specific tow rating and lamp load rating.
The manual does not specify the lamp load rating. You must not exceed the tow vehicle's lamp load rating, as exceeding it can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for your specific lamp load rating.
After installation, reinstall all items removed during the install, including trunk floor coverings, plastic covers on the taillights, and the rear scuff panel. Route the 4-flat connector out from under the felt trunk liner and to the center of the vehicle when in use. Roll up and store the connector in an out-of-the-way location when not in use.
The CURT 56197 is designed for Chevrolet Camaro without LED taillights. Confirm your Camaro does not have LED taillights and consult the Wiring Location Guide or call CURT technical support at 1-877-287-8634 to verify fitment for your model year.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation.
Do not exceed your vehicle's tow rating or lamp load rating; exceeding either can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the manufacturer for your specific limits.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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