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Complete CURT Class 1 1-1/4" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2012 - 2016 Audi A6 Sedan. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
However you define adventure -- whether it's climbing onto the back of a mountain bike, hunting from the top of a tree stand or camping with the family a long way from nowhere -- CURT class 1 hitches provide a light-duty towing receiver to help you Bring It. Each is made to fit a specific vehicle, providing easier installation, a better fit and optimal towing capacity. Custom class 1 trailer hitches are available for a variety of smaller vehicle types, including the compact car, crossover, minivan and small SUV. This particular class 1 hitch is designed to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Audi A6 and A6 Quattro (to verify vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). Tested in accordance with SAE J684, it offers a weight carrying capacity of 2,000 lbs. GTW and 200 lbs. TW. It is equipped with 1-1/4" receiver tube opening to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch mount. This class 1 hitch also comes with all necessary mounting hardware. With its lightweight design and smaller receiver tube size, a class 1 hitch is especially useful for adding cargo space with a hitch-mounted bike rack or cargo carrier. They can also typically be used to tow small trailers such as a utility trailer, kayak trailer or teardrop camper (never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component; i.e. the vehicle, hitch, trailer, etc). Though CURT class 1 trailer hitches are only intended for light-duty towing, we apply the same principles of quality as we do to the rest of our rear mount hitches. Each class 1 hitch is made with hands-on engineering, high-strength steel and precise welding. We use a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat, inside and out, and durable black powder coat to provide a lasting defense against rust, chips and UV rays.
Rain, road grime and salt can deal a vicious blow to your trailer wiring, and it takes electrical components with an extra-thick shell to stand up to the elements. The CURT multi-function electrical converter is an advanced taillight converter that offers the ultimate in vehicle compatibility and weather resistance, giving you a reliable wiring connection any season of the year. The potted design seals the internal electrical components in a watertight enclosure and is filled with a solid compound to protect against impacts, vibrations and moisture for long-lasting use, even on the exterior of the vehicle. The converter also features our advanced surface mount technology (SMT), using smaller components mounted directly to the surface of the circuit board. This produces lower resistance, reduced heat generation, longer life cycles and higher reliability. The CURT multi-function electrical converter comes with pigtail wires that are able to be spliced into two-wire, three-wire or PWM wiring system with combined stop and taillights. It converts any of these systems to a simple two-wire system, using a standard 4-way flat output, to be compatible with most trailer wiring. The converter is controlled using a microcontroller that is able to sense the current passing through it, allowing for quick reaction to dangerous conditions such as overload and short circuits. It also filters unwanted input signals to protect your wiring systems and uses a mere seven volts for low-voltage operation. The CURT multi-function taillight converter is a heavy-duty electrical converter for virtually any vehicle-trailer combination. It comes with color-coded wires and an easy-to-read wiring guide, as well as a dust cover to protect the 4-way flat connector. This package also includes four snap locks for faster, more secure splicing. A powered converter wiring kit #55152 is also required for installation.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2012 - 2016 | Audi A6 | Sedan |
The 12 - 16 Audi A6 Sedan Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11423 (Part #CHW-53) fits 2012-2016 Audi A6 models. The 2016 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 12 - 16 Audi A6 Sedan Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11423 (Part #CHW-53) is designed to fit the 2012-2016 Audi A6.
The 12 - 16 Audi A6 Sedan Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11423 (Part #CHW-53) fits the following vehicles: 2012-2016 Audi A6. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 12 - 16 Audi A6 Sedan Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11423 (Part #CHW-53) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, the CURT 11423 is designed for Audi A6 Sedan models from 2012 to present. Confirm your vehicle year and body style (sedan) match before purchasing.
The CURT 11423 is rated for a maximum trailer weight of 2,000 lbs and tongue weight of 200 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The CURT 11423 is designed for use with ball mount #D-55001 or #45501. Euro mount options are available: #45571 (1-7/8" ball) or #45572 (2" ball).
Required tools include: ratchet, torque wrench, 3/4" and 10mm sockets, 9" socket extension, T-25 and T-30 Torx bits, rotary cutting tool with cut-off wheel, masking tape, tape measure, silicone caulk, and safety glasses.
Yes. Step 2 of the installation requires you to remove the spare tire from inside the trunk. You will reinstall it in Step 9 after the hitch is secured.
No, drilling is not required. The installation uses existing holes in the nut plates and bumper beam supports. Fascia trimming is required, but no drilling.
Yes, fascia trimming is required. You must mark and trim the rear plastic fascia to provide clearance for the hitch. Dimensions are approximate (5.00 in. and 2.75 in. from center of vehicle, with 0.25 in. clearance), so confirm fit prior to trimming. For 2016 models, you must also remove and trim fascia brackets.
Use a rotary cutting tool with a cut-off wheel to trim the rear plastic fascia. Mark the trim line with masking tape first, and confirm fit before making final cuts.
The manual notes that lowering the exhaust can ease installation. To do this, remove (2) nuts using a 10mm socket from the exhaust bracket on each side. For 2016 models, you must remove (4) T-30 screws that retain the exhaust tips (2 on each side) and remove the exhaust tips before proceeding.
Step 3 requires you to remove the (2) rearmost rubber drain plugs from the bottom of the trunk pan and return them to the owner. In Step 7, you seal the drain holes with silicone caulk and insert spacer plates and carriage bolts into each hole.
Torque all 1/2-13 x 5" hex bolts to 75 ft-lbs. Torque all remaining 1/2" hardware (carriage bolts and hex flange nuts) to 110 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness.
In Step 6, loosely secure the hitch using the (4) 1/2-13 x 5" hex bolts and washers. Do not fully tighten them yet. Final torquing to 75 ft-lbs occurs in Step 8, after the drain holes are sealed and spacers are installed.
Two people may be required to ease installation. While one person may be able to complete it, having a second person can help with positioning the hitch and managing the fascia during trimming and reinstallation.
Professional installation time is approximately 90 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation time is approximately 45 minutes, though this may vary depending on experience and familiarity with the vehicle.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. For vehicles equipped with a kick sensor, use caution when trimming the fascia to avoid damaging the sensor. If you are hesitant to undertake this task, contact an authorized CURT installer for assistance.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. CURT recommends the use of 18050 stabilizing straps for all non-trailer loads.
After installation, periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This maintenance is important for safe towing operation.
The manual recommends periodically checking the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. Regular inspection is part of proper maintenance for safe towing.
The kit includes: (4) 1/2-13 x 5" hex cap screws (part 10-10564), (4) 1/2" conical toothed washers (part 30-00149), (2) 0.250" spacer plates (part CM-SP62), (2) 1/2-13 x 1-1/2" carriage bolts (part 10-10287), (2) 1/2-13 hex flange nuts (part 20-00062), and (2) nut plate weldments (part 11423-NPWA).
In Step 1, remove the (3) fascia screws holding the rear plastic fascia. Retain (2) of these screws for reinstallation in Step 9 and return (1) screw to the owner. These factory screws are reused to secure the fascia after hitch installation.
Yes. For 2016 models: (1) Remove (4) inboard T-30 screws that retain the exhaust tips (2 on each side) and remove the exhaust tips. (2) Use a 10mm socket to remove (4) bolts (2 on each side) and remove (2) fascia brackets (1 on each side) from the vehicle, then trim them for clearance as shown in the fascia trim diagram.
Yes, the CURT 11423 fits Audi A6 Sedan models from 2012 to present.
Maximum 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Ratchet, torque wrench, 3/4" and 10mm sockets, 9" extension, T-25 and T-30 Torx bits, rotary cutting tool, masking tape, tape measure, silicone caulk, and safety glasses.
No drilling required. Fascia trimming is required using a rotary cutting tool.
Torque 1/2-13 x 5" hex bolts to 75 ft-lbs. Torque all remaining 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. All non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Wear safety glasses during installation.
Periodically check all fasteners are tight and structural components are sound.
The CURT 56236 is a taillight converter that adapts vehicle taillight signals to a 4-flat connector. It converts various vehicle wiring types (two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, and PWM-STT) into a standardized 4-flat output. The converter is powered by the vehicle battery and includes short circuit, overload, and thermal protection.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12 volt negative ground electrical systems. It supports four wiring types: two-wire (combined stop and turn with independent tail), three-wire (independent stop, turn and tail), PWM-ST (combined stop and tail with independent turn), and PWM-STT (combined stop, turn and tail). You must first identify your vehicle's wiring type using the testing procedure on page 2 before installation.
No. The converter is designed only for 12 volt negative ground systems. It cannot be used on 24 volt vehicles or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems.
The converter includes the black converter box, snap locks for wiring connections, double-sided tape for mounting, cable ties for securing wires, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a ground screw, and input wires (green, red, yellow, and brown). Not included are 12 gauge wire, 15 amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items can be purchased separately or as CURT part 55152 kit.
A multimeter or test light is required to identify your vehicle's wiring type. A drill with a 3/32" bit may be needed if a suitable existing screw is not available for the ground connection. A wire stripper, crimper, and basic hand tools are needed to prepare and connect the 12 gauge battery wire and butt connectors, though these are not explicitly listed in the manual.
With the vehicle running and all lights off, use a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light to probe the taillight connectors. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify the pattern. Match your results to the 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' chart on page 2. The chart shows five wiring types: two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, PWM-STT, and SUVS/vans/cars/trucks variants.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation procedure requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The battery must remain disconnected until all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed.
After identifying your vehicle's wiring type, use the 'Wiring Installation' table on page 3 to match each converter wire (green, red, yellow, brown) to the correct vehicle wire. Use the provided snap locks to attach the converter input wires to the vehicle harness wires. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks. The specific connections vary by wiring type: for example, in a two-wire system, green splices to the right stop/turn wire, red grounds with the white wire, yellow splices to the left stop/turn wire, and brown splices to the tail wire.
Locate a flat spot near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Secure it with the included cable ties. The mounting location should be clean and free of obstructions to allow proper heat dissipation.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the converter, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free of rust, dirt, and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage or personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire from the converter to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use a ring terminal to attach the black wire to the positive battery terminal. Install a 15 amp fuse in a fuse holder on the positive wire between the battery and converter. Do not exceed 15 amps. The fuse must be installed after all other steps are complete. The negative battery terminal should remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
Drilling may be required only for the ground connection. If a suitable existing screw with nut is not available in the vehicle frame near the converter, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage or personal injury. No other drilling is required for the converter installation.
The battery connection must be fuse protected with a maximum of 15 amps. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The converter is rated for 5.0 amps per signal circuit (left and right turn) and 7.5 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or the vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
12 gauge wire or larger must be used to route from the converter to the vehicle battery. The wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The converter has four input wires: green (right turn signal), red (brake/stop signal), yellow (left turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). The white wire is the ground. The specific connections to your vehicle's wires depend on your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, or PWM-STT). Refer to the 'Wiring Installation' table on page 3 for your specific wiring type.
Two testing methods are supported. With a test light: attach the ground lead to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat end, then activate the vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time and probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. With a trailer: mate the 4-flat with the trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a trailer function does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a test light. If the vehicle test light shows good function, the issue is with the trailer.
No. The converter is designed only for 12 volt negative ground systems. It is not suitable for 24 volt vehicles or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems. Additionally, the converter must not be used on vehicles where the lamp circuits exceed the product's amperage ratings (5.0 amps per signal circuit, 7.5 amps total for tail/running circuits).
Before drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground screw, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The drilling area should be free of rust, dirt, and paint.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and reinstalling all items removed during installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal. Test the converter using either a test light or by connecting a trailer and activating each light function (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) to confirm proper operation. When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location.
Pulsing lights indicate that the lamp circuits exceed the converter's ratings or there is a wiring issue with the trailer. The converter's short circuit, overload, and thermal protection features cause this pulsing behavior when overloaded. Check that your vehicle's lamp circuits do not exceed 5.0 amps per signal circuit or 7.5 amps total for tail/running circuits. If the vehicle circuits are within limits, disconnect the trailer 4-flat and test the vehicle lights with a test light. If the vehicle lights function properly, the issue is with the trailer wiring or lamps.
First, disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector. Turn off the corresponding light function on the vehicle and recheck the function with a test light attached to the 4-flat ground terminal. If the vehicle test light shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer lights or wiring, not the converter. If the vehicle test light does not show the function, the converter wiring may be incorrect; refer to the 'Wiring Installation' table on page 3 to verify your connections match your vehicle's wiring type.
The CURT 56236 is designed for 12 volt negative ground vehicles (SUVs, vans, cars, and pickup trucks) with two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, or PWM-STT taillight wiring. It does not work on 24 volt or positive ground systems. You must identify your vehicle's wiring type using a multimeter or test light before purchase to confirm compatibility.
You must source 12 gauge wire, a 15 amp fuse, a fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery connection. These items are available separately or as CURT part 55152 kit. The converter includes snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, and a ground screw.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed.
Drilling may be required only for the ground connection. If no existing screw is available in the vehicle frame, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Check for hidden items before drilling.
The battery connection must use a 15 amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating or the vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The converter is rated for 5.0 amps per signal circuit and 7.5 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or the vehicle's lamp load rating. Exceeding limits can cause overheating and fire.
First, verify that the negative battery terminal is reconnected and the 15 amp fuse is installed in the battery circuit. Check that all snap lock connections are fully seated and that the converter input wires are connected to the correct vehicle wires according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, or PWM-STT). Verify that the white ground wire is securely attached to a clean, unpainted metal surface on the vehicle frame. If all connections are correct, test the vehicle lights directly with a test light to confirm the vehicle's taillight circuits are functioning.
Verify that the converter input wires are connected to the correct vehicle wires for your specific wiring type. Incorrect connections are the most common cause of partial function loss. Check the 'Wiring Installation' table on page 3 and confirm each wire (green, red, yellow, brown) is connected to the correct vehicle wire. Also verify that the white ground wire is securely attached to a clean metal surface. If connections are correct, test the vehicle lights directly with a test light to determine if the vehicle's taillight circuits are functioning properly.
The vehicle's lamp circuits are exceeding the converter's amperage ratings. The converter is rated for 5.0 amps per signal circuit and 7.5 amps total for tail/running circuits. If the vehicle's lamp load exceeds these limits, the converter's thermal protection will activate, causing the fuse to blow or the converter to overheat. Do not replace the fuse with a higher amperage rating. Instead, reduce the lamp load by removing or replacing high-wattage bulbs, or consult the vehicle manufacturer about the lamp circuit specifications.
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