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2012 - 2017 Toyota Camry
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Complete CURT Class 2 1-1/4" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2012 - 2017 Toyota Camry. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever the next checkpoint is on your adventure -- whether it's getting your bike on the trail before sunrise or making it to the campground before dark -- CURT class 2 hitches let you Bring It with confidence. These receiver hitches are made to handle most light-duty towing applications and offer a custom fit for your vehicle. Typically used on full-size cars, crossovers, compact SUVs, minivans or even compact pickup trucks, a CURT class 2 trailer hitch complements the design of smaller vehicles. This particular class 2 hitch is made to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Toyota Avalon and Camry (to verify vehicle compatibility, see application info). It offers a weight carrying capacity of 3,500 lbs. GTW and 350 lbs. TW. Class 2 trailer hitches can typically be used to tow a variety of lightweight trailers, such as a small utility trailer, small fishing boat trailer or popup camper (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component). They are also perfect for adding cargo space to your vehicle with a bike rack or cargo carrier. This class 2 hitch features a 1-1/4" receiver tube to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch-mounted accessory. For safety, it is tested in accordance with SAE J684. A custom trailer hitch design requires extra care, and as such, CURT class 2 hitches are engineered using real vehicles and hands-on research. We use high-strength steel, robotic welding and rigorous testing to produce hitches that are built to fit your lifestyle. To ensure that each hitch will be a reliable extension of your vehicle, we also finish our hitches in a co-curing of liquid A-coat and black powder coat, giving them long-lasting rust and wear resistance.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Mazda 3, 6 and CX7 and Toyota Camry, Corolla and FJ Cruiser (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2012 - 2017 | Toyota Camry | — |
The 12 - 17 Toyota Camry Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12107 (Part #CHW-2853) fits 2012-2017 Toyota Camry models. The 2017 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 12 - 17 Toyota Camry Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12107 (Part #CHW-2853) is designed to fit the 2012-2017 Toyota Camry.
The 12 - 17 Toyota Camry Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12107 (Part #CHW-2853) fits the following vehicles: 2012-2017 Toyota Camry. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 12 - 17 Toyota Camry Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12107 (Part #CHW-2853) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 12107 is designed for Toyota Avalon and Camry sedans from 2012 to present. The hitch is a weight-carrying receiver hitch with a maximum trailer weight capacity of 3500 lbs and tongue weight capacity of 350 lbs. Always verify your vehicle's year and model match these specifications before purchasing.
The CURT 12107 hitch has a maximum trailer weight capacity of 3500 lbs and a tongue weight capacity of 350 lbs. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than the hitch rating. Always consult your vehicle's owner manual to confirm the maximum towing capacity your vehicle can safely handle.
The CURT 12107 hitch is designed for use with ball mount part number D-55001 or 45501. Euro mount options are also available: part number 45571 (1 7/8" ball) and part number 45572 (2" ball).
Required tools include: ratchet, torque wrench, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm sockets, 3/4" socket, power drill with 1/2" drill bit, die grinder, aviation shears, tape measure, and safety glasses. A marker is also recommended for marking hole locations.
Yes, underbody panel removal is required if the panel covers the driver side frame. Remove 4 screws (7 on single exhaust models) using a 10mm socket in the bumper fascia, remove 2 push-button fasteners (4 on single exhaust models), unscrew 3 plastic nuts using a 10mm socket towards the front, and unscrew 2 plastic nuts using a 12mm socket in the center. On single exhaust models, also remove 1 screw attaching the underbody cover to the driver side frame rail. You can trim the panel to allow the hitch to pass through, or return it to the vehicle owner.
Yes, temporary lowering of the exhaust is required. Remove 2 bolts which attach exhaust hanger brackets to the passenger side frame rail and remove the rubber isolator located forward of the muffler. After installation is complete, raise the exhaust back into position and reinstall the rubber isolators if they were removed.
Yes, drilling is required. You must drill a 1/2" pilot hole in each frame rail as marked during temporary hitch positioning. You then enlarge these drilled holes enough to accept the supplied spacers and carriage bolts, being careful not to damage the existing weldnuts. Additionally, you must make a 1" hole in the heat shield(s) on the marked location.
Yes, heat shield trimming is required. Remove the heat shield by removing 2 screws which secure it to the frame rail, then trim off the rearmost section of the heat shield as shown in the Heat Shield Trim Diagram. On the passenger side, trim 11" off the rearmost section. On the driver side (if present), trim 8" off the rearmost section. After drilling the 1" hole in the heat shield, reinstall it using only the forward most screw, with the rearward edge compressed between the frame rail and the edge of the hitch side plate.
Trimming the underbody panel is optional. If you decide to trim it, use the diagram provided in the manual to cut a section allowing the hitch to pass through. After trimming, you can reinstall the panel on the vehicle or return it to the vehicle owner. If you choose not to trim it, you can return the untrimmed panel to the vehicle owner.
The reverse fishwire technique is used to thread the supplied spacers and carriage bolts up through the enlarged holes in the frame rails. Two 1/2" fishwires are supplied with the hitch. You reverse fishwire the spacers and carriage bolts up through the enlarged holes, leaving the fishwires attached. The fishwires are then threaded through the side plates when the hitch is raised back into position. Refer to the Reverse Fishwire Technique Diagram in the manual for detailed instructions.
Yes, you must bend the tab on the exhaust hanger bracket(s) so that it rests flat on the surface of the hitch side plate(s). This is done before raising the hitch back into position and reinstalling the exhaust hanger bracket with the hitch between it and the frame.
Torque all M10 fasteners to 45 lb.-ft. Torque all 1/2" fasteners to 110 lb.-ft. These torque values must be applied after all fasteners are installed and the hitch is in its final position.
The CURT 12107 includes: 4 M10x1.25 hex head cap screws (part 10-10298), 2 square hole spacers 0.250 x 1.00 x 2.50" (part CM-SP10), 2 carriage bolts 1/2"-13 UNC 1-1/4" (part 10-10278), 2 serrated flange nuts 1/2"-13 UNC (part 20-00062), 4 washers 7/16" (part 30-00163), and 2 pieces of 1/2" fishwire (part 1_2 FISHWIRE).
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, you can contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. Additionally, never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. All non-trailer loads applied to this product must be supported by 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
The CURT 12107 installation is rated as moderate to challenging difficulty. The installation requires drilling, heat shield trimming, exhaust lowering, underbody panel removal, and hole enlargement. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, you can contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance, or call CURT technical support at 877-287-8634.
After installation, periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing maintenance is important for safe operation of the hitch.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when the product is returned, prepaid, with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse, or improper installation of this product voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of products found to be defective and specifically excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
The CURT 12107 hitch complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5 and SAE J684.
Yes, the CURT 12107 is designed for Toyota Avalon and Camry sedans from 2012 to present. Maximum capacity: 3500 lbs trailer weight, 350 lbs tongue weight. Always verify your vehicle's year and model match these specifications.
Yes. You must drill a 1/2" pilot hole in each frame rail, enlarge those holes to accept spacers and carriage bolts, and make a 1" hole in the heat shield. Heat shield trimming (11" on passenger side, 8" on driver side) and underbody panel removal are also required.
Required tools: ratchet, torque wrench, 10mm/12mm/14mm/17mm sockets, 3/4" socket, power drill with 1/2" bit, die grinder, aviation shears, tape measure, and safety glasses. A marker is also recommended.
Torque all M10 fasteners to 45 lb.-ft. Torque all 1/2" fasteners to 110 lb.-ft.
Maximum capacity is 3500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight. However, never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower. Consult your vehicle's owner manual.
The CURT 12107 is designed for ball mount D-55001 or 45501. Euro mount options are available: 45571 (1 7/8" ball) and 45572 (2" ball).
Non-trailer loads must be supported by 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
The manual instructs you to enlarge the drilled hole in each frame rail "being careful not to damage weldnuts." If the weldnut is damaged during enlargement, the hitch cannot be properly secured. Stop work immediately and contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634 for assistance. Do not attempt to proceed with installation if the weldnut is damaged.
The manual specifies that the rearward edge of the heat shield should be compressed between the frame rail and the edge of the hitch side plate when reinstalled using only the forward most screw. If the heat shield does not compress properly, verify that you have trimmed the correct amount (11" on passenger side, 8" on driver side) and that the hitch is positioned correctly. If the problem persists, contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634.
Yes, the Curt 55567 is designed for Mazda 3 vehicles. Installation involves accessing the vehicle wiring harness connectors inside the rear cargo area by removing the plastic scuff panel and pulling back the felt trunk liner. The custom harness connectors are inserted into the vehicle's taillight wiring connectors located behind the taillight housing.
Yes, the Curt 55567 is designed for Mazda 6 vehicles. Installation requires removing the plastic scuff panel and felt trunk liner to access the vehicle wiring harness connectors. On the driver side, you must use a 10mm socket to remove two nuts on the back of the taillight housing and gently pull the housing rearward to access the connectors.
Yes, the Curt 55567 is designed for both hybrid and non-hybrid Toyota Camry models. Installation involves removing the rear scuff panel and felt trunk liner to access the vehicle wiring harness connectors. You must also remove the plastic nuts securing the cargo tray and remove the tray to locate the taillight wiring harness connectors.
Yes, the Curt 55567 is designed for Toyota Corolla vehicles. Installation involves removing the rear scuff panel and felt trunk liner to access the vehicle wiring harness connectors inside the rear cargo area. The connectors are located behind the taillight housing.
Yes, the Curt 55567 is designed for Toyota FJ Cruiser vehicles. Installation is more involved than other applications and requires removing the jack storage compartment door, rear scuff panel, trim panels, and cargo clips to access the vehicle wiring. If your FJ Cruiser is equipped with an optional subwoofer unit, additional removal steps are required before accessing the wiring harness connectors.
The Curt 55567 fits Mazda 3, Mazda 6, Toyota Camry (including hybrid), Toyota Corolla, and Toyota FJ Cruiser.
You will need: ratchet, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, Phillips screwdriver, flat blade screwdriver, and panel trim removal tool. The 10mm socket is used to remove taillight housing nuts on Mazda 6 and subwoofer bolts on FJ Cruiser. The trim removal tool is essential for safely removing plastic panels without damage.
Yes. You need a ratchet, 8mm and 10mm sockets, Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers, and a panel trim removal tool. The trim removal tool is essential for safely removing plastic panels.
The kit includes the custom wiring harness with color-coded wires (yellow, red, green, white, and black), a black converter box, a ring terminal for the ground wire, a provided screw for grounding, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing loose wires, and a 4-flat dust cover. A separate CME-PCL-INS sheet is included with battery power wire routing instructions.
On the driver side, insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire between the two-pin separated connectors and the red wire end between the three-pin connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Take care not to damage the locking tabs during insertion.
Route the custom wiring harness end with the green wire to the passenger side behind the removed scuff panels. Insert the harness end with the green wire between the two-pin separated connectors and the red wire end between the three-pin connectors, matching the driver side procedure. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
Drilling may be required. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the connector. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, no drilling is needed. If not, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint before drilling. Check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under surfaces before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. Ensure the drilling area is free of rust, dirt and paint. The manual does not specify what types of items to check for, so consult your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for guidance on what may be behind the surface where you plan to drill.
The Curt 55567 uses the following wire colors: yellow wire (connects to two-pin separated connectors), red wire (connects to three-pin connectors), green wire (passenger side harness end), white wire (ground connection), and black wire (power connection from vehicle battery). The black converter box is mounted separately inside the vehicle.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Use a 10-amp maximum fuse for the battery connection. Do not exceed this rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The Curt 55567 has the following circuit ratings: Signal Circuits – 3.0 amps per side; Tail/Running Circuits – 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the included CME-PCL-INS sheet. The manual does not provide the routing details in the installation instructions; refer to the separate CME-PCL-INS sheet included with your kit for specific routing instructions.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The converter box should be mounted in a location that is accessible but out of the way.
When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll up and store in a convenient, out of the way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties to prevent tangling and damage.
The manual specifies circuit ratings (Signal Circuits – 3.0 amps per side; Tail/Running Circuits – 6.0 amps total) and a 10-amp maximum fuse rating for the battery connection. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Once installed, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness will function properly before testing.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. Ensure all installation steps have been completed before testing.
Reinstall all items removed during installation, including trim panels, scuff panels, cargo trays, and subwoofer units (if applicable). Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Test the wiring harness for proper function using a test light or properly wired trailer.
The provided 4-flat dust cover helps prevent corrosion of the connector. Install it after completing all installation steps and reinstalling removed items.
1. Remove the plastic scuff panel and pull back the felt trunk liner to access the vehicle wiring harness connectors. 2. Locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors and separate them from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. 3. Insert the custom harness end with yellow wire between the two-pin separated connectors and the red wire end between the three-pin connectors on the driver side. 4. Route the harness end with green wire to the passenger side and repeat the connector insertion. 5. Locate a suitable grounding point or drill a 3/32" pilot hole and secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal and provided screw. 6. Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the included CME-PCL-INS sheet. 7. Mount the black converter box on a flat spot near the taillight using the provided double-sided tape. 8. Route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle when in use; store it rolled up in the trunk when not in use. Secure loose wires with cable ties. 9. Reinstall all removed items and install the 4-flat dust cover.
1. Remove the plastic scuff panel and pull back the felt trunk liner. 2. On the driver side, use a 10mm socket to remove two nuts on the back of the taillight housing. Gently pull the housing rearward and separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Set the taillight assembly aside. 3. Insert the custom harness end with yellow wire between the two-pin separated connectors and the red wire end between the three-pin connectors on the driver side. 4. Route the harness end with green wire to the passenger side and repeat the connector insertion. 5. Locate a suitable grounding point or drill a 3/32" pilot hole and secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal and provided screw. 6. Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the included CME-PCL-INS sheet. 7. Mount the black converter box on a flat spot near the taillight using the provided double-sided tape. 8. Route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle when in use; store it rolled up in the trunk when not in use. Secure loose wires with cable ties. 9. Reinstall all removed items and install the 4-flat dust cover.
1. Remove the rear scuff panel and felt trunk liner to access the vehicle wiring harness connectors. 2. Remove the plastic nuts securing the cargo tray and remove the tray. Locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors and separate them from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. 3. Insert the custom harness end with yellow wire between the two-pin separated connectors and the red wire end between the three-pin connectors on the driver side. 4. Route the harness end with green wire to the passenger side and repeat the connector insertion. 5. Locate a suitable grounding point or drill a 3/32" pilot hole and secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal and provided screw. 6. Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the included CME-PCL-INS sheet. 7. Mount the black converter box on a flat spot near the taillight using the provided double-sided tape. 8. Route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle when in use; store it rolled up in the trunk when not in use. Secure loose wires with cable ties. 9. Reinstall all removed items and install the 4-flat dust cover.
1. Remove the rear scuff panel and felt trunk liner to access the vehicle wiring harness connectors inside the rear cargo area. 2. Locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors and separate them from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. 3. Insert the custom harness end with yellow wire between the two-pin separated connectors and the red wire end between the three-pin connectors on the driver side. 4. Route the harness end with green wire to the passenger side and repeat the connector insertion. 5. Locate a suitable grounding point or drill a 3/32" pilot hole and secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal and provided screw. 6. Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the included CME-PCL-INS sheet. 7. Mount the black converter box on a flat spot near the taillight using the provided double-sided tape. 8. Route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle when in use; store it rolled up in the trunk when not in use. Secure loose wires with cable ties. 9. Reinstall all removed items and install the 4-flat dust cover.
1. Open the vehicle tailgate and remove the jack storage compartment door on the driver side. 2. Remove the five screws securing the rear scuff panel. Using a trim panel removal tool, carefully pry the rear scuff panel away from the vehicle, taking care not to damage the alignment tabs. 3. Remove the two Phillips screws connecting the trim panel to the vehicle floor on both sides. Remove the cargo clips and access panels to gain access to the vehicle wiring. If equipped with an optional subwoofer unit, remove the access panel below it, carefully remove the front trim/grill assembly, use a 10mm socket to remove the four 10mm bolts holding the subwoofer unit, disconnect the harness retainer clip, and pull out the subwoofer unit. 4. Using a trim panel removal tool, carefully pull back the interior trim panels on both sides. 5. Locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors and route the custom harness ends with red and yellow wires behind the trim panel up to the access panel location. 6. Insert the custom harness end with yellow wire between the two-pin separated connectors and the red wire end between the three-pin connectors on the driver side. 7. Route the harness end with green wire to the passenger side and repeat the connector insertion. 8. Locate a suitable grounding point or drill a 3/32" pilot hole and secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal and provided screw. 9. Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the included CME-PCL-INS sheet. 10. Mount the black converter box on a flat spot near the taillight using the provided double-sided tape. 11. Route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle when in use; store it rolled up in the trunk when not in use. Secure loose wires with cable ties. 12. Reinstall all removed items and install the 4-flat dust cover.
Only if your FJ Cruiser is equipped with an optional subwoofer unit. If it is equipped with a subwoofer, you must remove it to gain access to the vehicle wiring harness connectors. The removal process involves removing the access panel below the subwoofer, carefully removing the front trim/grill assembly (taking care not to damage the eight clips), using a 10mm socket to remove the four 10mm bolts holding the subwoofer unit, disconnecting the harness retainer clip, and pulling out the subwoofer unit. If your vehicle is not equipped with a subwoofer, skip these steps and proceed directly to pulling back the interior trim panels.
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