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2013 - 2022 Buick Encore
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | S3,S4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2013 - 2022 | Buick Encore | — |
Yes, the 13-22 Buick Encore 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW188 (Part #HBCW188) is designed to fit the 2013-2022 Buick Encore.
The 13-22 Buick Encore 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW188 (Part #HBCW188) fits the following vehicles: 2013-2022 Buick Encore. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 13-22 Buick Encore 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW188 (Part #HBCW188) fits 2013-2022 Buick Encore models. The 2022 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 13-22 Buick Encore 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW188 (Part #HBCW188) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 11612 is designed for the Chevrolet Trailblazer. The manual does not specify which model years or generations are compatible. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
The CURT 11612 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Required tools: ratchet, 7mm socket, 15mm socket, 3" socket extension, torque wrench, flathead screwdriver, Torx bit T-15, trim panel pry tool, utility knife, safety glasses, and gloves. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
No drilling is required. The installation uses existing vehicle hardware (M10 screws and nuts) and involves removal of components, trimming of the rear bumper fascia and underbody panel, and caulking around the bumper beam.
All M10 hardware (nuts and screws) must be torqued to 32 lb-ft. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening during installation.
Yes. The installation requires trimming of the rear bumper fascia and trimming of the underbody panel to 2-5/8" wide x 1-3/8" tall. Caulk around the bumper beam must also be trimmed.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Gloves are recommended when using cutting tools. Support the taillight to avoid damaging electrical wires. Ensure electrical connectors are out of the way when trimming caulk and during hitch installation.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. Refer to specified torque specifications (32 lb-ft for M10 hardware) when checking hardware.
The CURT 11612 uses existing vehicle hardware for installation. No additional fasteners are included with the product. The installation reuses the vehicle's existing M10 screws and nuts from the bumper beam mounting points.
Installation requires removal of: wheel well trim, taillights, rear bumper fascia, and bumper beam. All of these components are reinstalled in Step 10 after the hitch is mounted. Fasteners removed during disassembly are set aside and reused.
The hitch is raised into position over the existing M10 screws on both the driver-side and passenger-side frame rails. The bumper beam is then placed over the hitch, and the three M10 nuts on each side are loosely installed. All M10 hardware is then torqued to 32 lb-ft.
Yes. On Chevrolet Trailblazer only, you must press on a tab located inside the rear bumper fascia near where the taillight and hatch intersect during removal. This step is not required for other compatible vehicles.
The installation is rated as "Easy" difficulty level based on time and effort involved. However, difficulty may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and using proper tools to improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The rear bumper fascia must be trimmed during removal (Step 5-6). Additionally, caulk around the bumper beam on both sides must be trimmed (Step 7). The underbody panel must be trimmed to 2-5/8" wide x 1-3/8" tall (Step 10). Use a utility knife for trimming and wear gloves for safety.
Yes. The manual indicates that electrical connectors may be present on the rear bumper fascia and frame. In Step 6, disconnect all electrical connectors from the rear bumper fascia if applicable. In Step 7, remove all electrical connectors from the frame if applicable. All connectors are reinstalled in Step 10. Support the taillight to avoid damaging electrical wires during removal.
The installation follows a specific 10-step sequence: (1) Remove wheel well trim and fascia screws, (2) Remove hatch screws, (3) Remove underbody panel fasteners, (4) Remove taillight screws and taillight, (5) Pull rear bumper fascia, (6) Remove rear bumper fascia and disconnect electrical connectors, (7) Trim caulk around bumper beam, (8) Remove bumper beam M10 nuts, (9) Install hitch and bumper beam with M10 nuts torqued to 32 lb-ft, (10) Trim underbody panel and reinstall all components.
The M10 nuts should be loosely installed in Step 9 before the hitch is in final position. They are then torqued to 32 lb-ft once the hitch is properly positioned over the existing M10 screws on both sides of the vehicle.
After installation, verify that all mounting hardware is tight and structural components are secure. Ensure all M10 hardware is torqued to 32 lb-ft. Confirm that all electrical connectors are properly reinstalled and functional. Check that the rear bumper fascia, taillights, wheel well trim, and underbody panel are properly reinstalled. Perform periodic inspections to ensure hardware remains tight.
Curt part 56456 is a wiring converter system designed for SUVs and vans. It converts the vehicle's taillight signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and tail lights) into a 4-flat trailer connector format. The system includes a powered converter box that mounts inside the vehicle and routes wiring to the rear, allowing you to connect a trailer with standard 4-flat connectors.
Curt 56456 is designed for SUVs and vans. The system requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system. For specific vehicle compatibility, consult your vehicle's owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer, as the manual does not list specific makes, models or years.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. It cannot be used on 24-volt systems or positive ground systems.
You will need: ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, T-45 Torx bit, panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, cutting tool, flathead screwdriver, and electrical tape. The manual notes that proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The kit includes: a custom wiring harness with yellow and green wires, a black converter box, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, cable ties for securing wires, a 4-flat dust cover, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse, and a screw for grounding the white wire to the vehicle body.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle's battery in the engine compartment on the driver side and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. The battery must remain disconnected until after all wiring is complete and before the fuse is installed.
Before beginning, read all instructions thoroughly. Open the vehicle tailgate and remove all trunk floor coverings. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and fasten it down and away from the battery. The manual notes that proper tools and equipment will improve installation quality. Installation difficulty is rated as Easy.
The black converter box mounts on a flat spot on the driver side of the vehicle using the provided double-sided tape. The exact location is not specified in the manual, but it should be positioned to allow the power wire to route to the battery and the signal wires to reach the taillight connectors.
The wiring harness connects at two locations: (1) Driver side: Use a panel trim removal tool to pull back the side trim panel. Locate the taillight wiring harness connectors. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully without damaging the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. Ensure connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. (2) Passenger side: Repeat the process with the green wire. Run the green wire along the back of the vehicle from the driver side to the passenger side.
The wiring harness uses the following color code: Yellow = Left turn signal, Green = Right turn signal, Red = Brake signal, Brown = Tail/running lights. The yellow wire connects at the driver side taillight, and the green wire connects at the passenger side taillight. The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal, and the white ground wire connects to the vehicle body.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
You may need to drill a 3/32" hole to attach the white ground wire ring terminal to the vehicle body, but only if a suitable existing hole or mounting point is not available. Use the screw provided with the kit. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be behind or under the surface to avoid personal injury or property damage.
Yes. You must remove the rear side panels and storage trays to access the taillight connectors and route the wiring. Specifically: (1) Remove two cargo tie-downs securing the rear side panels using a 10mm socket. (2) Remove the scuff panel using a panel trim removal tool by pulling straight up. (3) Remove two fasteners securing the storage trays using a T-45 Torx bit and extension. (4) Remove the storage trays. (5) Pull back the side trim panel using a panel trim removal tool to access the taillight connectors. All removed items must be reinstalled after installation is complete.
Signal circuits (left turn and right turn) are rated at 5.0 amps per side. Tail and running light circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. A fuse holder with 10-amp fuse is provided in the kit. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding the 10-amp rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The power wire must be 12 GA (gauge) or larger. Route the 12 GA wire from the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges.
Route the black 12 GA power wire from the converter to the vehicle battery location, avoiding pinch points and hot or rotating components. Connect the ring terminal of the black power wire to the positive (+) battery terminal. The connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the screw provided. If necessary, drill a 3/32" hole for the screw. The ground wire must be securely connected to complete the electrical circuit. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items behind or under the surface to avoid personal injury or property damage.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. The specific product rating is not stated in the manual. Consult your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for the tow vehicle lamp load rating. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Route the 12 GA power wire to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items that may be behind or under the surface to avoid personal injury or property damage. Disconnect the negative battery cable before wiring the power wire. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
After wiring the power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Reconnect the negative battery terminal after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion when the connector is not in use.
Curt 56456 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. For specific vehicle compatibility, check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before installation and keep it disconnected until after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed.
You may need to drill a 3/32" hole to mount the ground wire, but only if a suitable existing mounting point is not available. You must remove rear side panels and storage trays to access the taillight connectors.
10-amp maximum fuse. A fuse holder with 10-amp fuse is provided. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete.
12 GA (gauge) or larger. Route the power wire to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Protect the wire from sharp edges when passing through sheet metal.
When separating the taillight connectors, take care not to damage the locking tabs. Use a panel trim removal tool to gently pull back the side trim panel and access the connectors. If the connectors are stuck, apply gentle, steady pressure rather than force. Do not pull on the wires themselves, as this can damage the locking tabs or connectors.
Verify the following: (1) The negative battery terminal is reconnected. (2) The 10-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder. (3) The yellow wire is fully inserted in the driver side taillight connector with locking tabs in place. (4) The green wire is fully inserted in the passenger side taillight connector with locking tabs in place. (5) The black power wire is connected to the positive (+) battery terminal with a ring terminal. (6) The white ground wire is securely attached to the vehicle body. (7) Test with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer to verify operation.
The converter box is mounted using the provided double-sided tape on a flat spot on the driver side of the vehicle. If the tape is not holding, ensure the mounting surface is clean and dry before applying the tape. Press firmly on the converter box for several seconds to ensure good adhesion. If the tape fails, the converter may need to be remounted on a different flat surface or secured with an alternative method not specified in this manual.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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