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2013 - 2022 Buick Encore
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S3,S4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:

CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2013 - 2022 | Buick Encore | — |
The 13-22 Buick Encore 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW187 (Part #HBCW187) fits 2013-2022 Buick Encore models. The 2022 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 13-22 Buick Encore 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW187 (Part #HBCW187) is designed to fit the 2013-2022 Buick Encore.
The 13-22 Buick Encore 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW187 (Part #HBCW187) fits the following vehicles: 2013-2022 Buick Encore. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 13-22 Buick Encore 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW187 (Part #HBCW187) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part number 11527 is designed for 2013-Present Buick Encore and Chevrolet Trax Crossover models. Verify your vehicle year and model before purchasing.
The hitch has a gross load capacity of 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight carrying hitch.
Required tools include: safety glasses, die grinder, spray lubricant, ratchet, socket extension, 11/16" and 3/4" sockets, and torque wrench. A cut-off wheel is also needed for hole enlargement.
Yes, you must lower rear exhaust hangers from one location on each side of the vehicle. Alternatively, the exhaust can be lowered at one location at the front center, but this must be done slowly and supported from underneath during installation.
Yes. You must enlarge the frame access holes to fit the SP2 spacers, trim wheel well plastic on some model years for a flush fit, and trim caulking around side mounting holes if present. Avoid brake lines when cutting.
Torque all 7/16" hardware to 59 lb-ft, all M12-1.25 hardware to 86 lb-ft, and all M12-1.75 hardware to 79 lb-ft.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The hitch is rated for 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight, but your vehicle's limits may be lower.
Non-trailer (wheel-less) loads can only be applied to this hitch if they are supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads voids the product warranty.
The hitch is designed for use with CURT ballmount #45520/D-20, CURT Euro ballmount #45561 (1 7/8" ball), or CURT Euro ballmount #45562 (2" ball).
The kit includes: 6 bolts (7/16-14 UNC, 1-1/4", Grade 8), 4 HHCS M12x1.25 bolts, 4 HHCS M12x1.75 bolts, 6 serrated flange nuts (7/16-14 UNC), 4 conical washers (1/2"), 6 square hole spacers (0.250 x 0.88 x 2.25"), and 6 pieces of 7/16" fishwire.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual rates this as a moderate to challenging difficulty level.
Professional installation takes approximately 25 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation takes approximately 60 minutes.
1. Lower rear exhaust hangers from one location on each side (or front center if needed). 2. Trim wheel well plastic on some model years if needed for flush fit. 3. Enlarge frame access holes to fit SP2 spacers. 4. Fishwire spacers and 7/16" bolts through access holes, raise hitch into position, and loosely secure with 7/16" nuts. 5. If no weldnuts exist, fishwire hardware for side mounting points and secure all 7/16" hardware; if weldnuts exist, secure with M12 bolts and 1/2" conical washers. 6. Torque all fasteners to specification and raise exhaust hangers back into position.
Fishwiring is a technique using 7/16" fishwire (included in the kit) to thread fasteners through access holes in the vehicle frame and into mounting points. It is required because the hitch mounts through the frame rails at locations where direct bolt access is not available. The fishwire guides the bolts into position so they can be secured with nuts.
The fastening method depends on your vehicle's frame: if weldnuts already exist in the frame, use M12 bolts and 1/2" conical washers in the side mounting plates. If no weldnuts exist, fishwire the 7/16" hardware through the frame rail and hitch side plates and secure with 7/16" serrated flange nuts.
The frame access holes must be enlarged to accommodate the 0.250 x 0.88 x 2.25" square hole spacers (CM-SP2) included in the kit. The manual specifies an 0.88" diameter enlargement on the diagram but does not provide exact hole size specifications. Contact CURT Technical Support at 877-287-8634 for precise dimensions.
Yes, caulking may need to be trimmed around side mounting holes if present. This is mentioned as a possible requirement during the exhaust lowering step.
On some model years, the wheel well plastic on each side of the vehicle near the frame rails will need to be trimmed to provide a flush fit for the hitch side plates. The manual does not specify which model years require this. Consult with your installer or contact CURT Technical Support at 877-287-8634 to confirm if your vehicle requires this modification.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. When cutting frame material or plastic, be sure to avoid the vehicle brake lines. If lowering the exhaust at the front center, lower it slowly and support it from underneath during installation.
After installation, periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing maintenance is critical to safe operation.
The manual states to periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound, but does not specify an exact inspection interval. For safety, inspect before each towing use and at regular intervals during the towing season.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration, misuse, or improper installation voids the warranty.
The CURT 11527 complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5 and SAE J684.
On some model years, the wheel well plastic on each side of the vehicle near the frame rails will need to be trimmed to provide a flush fit for the hitch side plates. Carefully trim away the plastic while avoiding the vehicle brake lines. If the fit is still not flush after plastic trimming, verify that the frame access holes have been enlarged sufficiently to accommodate the SP2 spacers.
The frame access holes must be enlarged to fit the 0.250 x 0.88 x 2.25" square hole spacers. Use a die grinder with a cut-off wheel to enlarge the holes. Be sure to avoid the vehicle brake lines when cutting the frame material away. If you are uncertain about the correct hole size, contact CURT Technical Support at 877-287-8634.
Lower the rear exhaust hangers from one location on each side of the vehicle. If this does not provide sufficient clearance, the exhaust can also be lowered at one location at the front center of the vehicle. This location must be lowered slowly and supported from underneath during installation. Raise the exhaust hangers back into position after the hitch is secured.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56216 Custom Wiring Harness is designed for Buick Encore SUVs. It is compatible with the S-type (SUVs, Mini & Full-Sized Vans) body style.
The harness is rated for Signal Circuits at 3.0 amps per side and Tail/Running Circuits at 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
You will need a panel trim removal tool. A drill with a 3/32" bit may be needed if you do not have a suitable existing screw with nut for the ground wire attachment point.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery on the driver side under the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation.
The yellow wire end connects to the driver side taillight wiring harness connectors. Insert it between the separated connectors and ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
The green wire end connects to the passenger side taillight wiring harness connectors. Route it behind the removed scuff panel and repeat the same connection procedure as the driver side (Steps 4-6).
Locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Clean the area of rust, dirt and paint, then secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
Drilling is not always required. You may use an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame as a grounding point. Drilling is only necessary if no suitable existing fastener is available. If drilling is needed, a 3/32" pilot hole is required for the provided ground screw.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape.
When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Test for proper function by using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer. All installation steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Exceeding the product rating (Signal Circuits 3.0 amps per side, Tail/Running Circuits 6.0 amps total) or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower, can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or the 10-amp maximum fuse protection.
Remove the two 10mm bolts and cargo fasteners on each side of the rear scuff panel. Pull out on the bottom and then up to remove it. Take care not to damage the alignment tabs on the back. The panel is removed to access the wiring harness routing behind it.
Yes. Step 2 requires you to open the vehicle tailgate and remove all trunk floor coverings and storage trays to access the rear scuff panel and wiring harness routing areas.
Remove the plastic access cover from the interior trim panel to locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness. Carefully move the lower interior trim panel to be able to route the custom wiring harness.
Locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors. Separate them from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end (yellow for driver side, green for passenger side) between the separated connectors. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Reinstall all items removed during installation, including trunk floor coverings, storage trays and the rear scuff panel. Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Yes, the Curt 56216 is designed for Buick Encore SUVs (S-type body style).
You need a panel trim removal tool. A drill with 3/32" bit may be needed if no existing screw with nut is available for grounding.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation.
Drilling is optional. You may use an existing screw with nut for grounding. If drilling is needed, a 3/32" pilot hole is required.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this can cause overheating and fire.
Signal Circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running Circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating.
Test using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer to verify proper function.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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