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2013 - 2024 Mitsubishi RVR
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Complete CURT Class 2 1-1/4" trailer hitch and Universal Wiring Kit engineered for the 2013 - 2024 Mitsubishi RVR. Vehicle-specific hitch fit, with a universal taillight converter for trailer wiring; all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever the next checkpoint is on your adventure -- whether it's getting your bike on the trail before sunrise or making it to the campground before dark -- CURT class 2 hitches let you Bring It with confidence. These receiver hitches are made to handle most light-duty towing applications and offer a custom fit for your vehicle. Typically used on full-size cars, crossovers, compact SUVs, minivans or even compact pickup trucks, a CURT class 2 trailer hitch complements the design of smaller vehicles. This particular class 2 hitch is made to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Mitsubishi Outlander Sport and RVR (to verify vehicle compatibility, see application info). It offers a weight carrying capacity of 3,500 lbs. GTW and 350 lbs. TW. Class 2 trailer hitches can typically be used to tow a variety of lightweight trailers, such as a small utility trailer, small fishing boat trailer or popup camper (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component). They are also perfect for adding cargo space to your vehicle with a bike rack or cargo carrier. This class 2 hitch features a 1-1/4" receiver tube to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch-mounted accessory. For safety, it is tested in accordance with SAE J684. A custom trailer hitch design requires extra care, and as such, CURT class 2 hitches are engineered using real vehicles and hands-on research. We use high-strength steel, robotic welding and rigorous testing to produce hitches that are built to fit your lifestyle. To ensure that each hitch will be a reliable extension of your vehicle, we also finish our hitches in a co-curing of liquid A-coat and black powder coat, giving them long-lasting rust and wear resistance.
This CURT universal taillight converter is the go-to solution when a vehicle-specific custom harness isn't available for your make and model. It provides a standard 4-way flat trailer connector for tail lights, brake lights and turn signals, and is compatible with most vehicles (light splicing required). Built with surface-mount circuitry and a potted enclosure for durability against moisture, vibration and road debris. Includes a dust cover and is backed by a limited one-year warranty.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2013 - 2024 | Mitsubishi RVR | — |
The 13 - 24 Mitsubishi RVR Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12048 (Part #CHW-2482) fits the following vehicles: 2013-2024 Mitsubishi RVR. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 13 - 24 Mitsubishi RVR Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12048 (Part #CHW-2482) fits 2013-2024 Mitsubishi RVR models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 13 - 24 Mitsubishi RVR Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12048 (Part #CHW-2482) is designed to fit the 2013-2024 Mitsubishi RVR.
The 13 - 24 Mitsubishi RVR Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12048 (Part #CHW-2482) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 12048 is designed for the 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport/RVR Crossover. The manual does not specify whether it fits other model years of the Outlander Sport, so contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634 to confirm fitment for other years.
The CURT 12048 is rated for a maximum of 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
You will need: torque wrench, ratchet, 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 19mm socket, 3/4" socket, 6" extension, aviation shears, and a rotary tool (such as a Dremel). Safety glasses should be worn at all times during installation.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing holes in the frame rails. However, on 2020 model year and newer vehicles, fascia trimming is required using a rotary tool or aviation shears.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to remove three bolts and the existing tow loop from the passenger side frame rail. You should return these bolts and tow loop to the vehicle owner.
Temporary lowering of the charcoal canister on the driver side will ease installation, but it is not strictly required. The manual notes that you will need to reach between the bumper cover and rear wheel well to access the holes in the side of the frame rail on the driver side.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly and using proper tools to improve installation quality and reduce time required.
Yes. On 2020 model year and newer vehicles, fascia trimming is required. Using a rotary tool (Dremel) or aviation shears, trim the fascia on both the driver and passenger side of the vehicle as shown in the trim diagram. The dimensions are approximate; trim as required for proper fit.
All 10mm hardware (M10-1.25 x 25mm bolts) must be torqued to 48 ft-lbs.
All 1/2" hardware (1/2-13 UNC carriage bolts and 1/2" hex flange nuts) must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs.
The kit includes: 2 M10x1.25x25mm hex head cap screws (part 10-10373), 2 3/8" conical toothed washers (part 30-00148), 4 1/2-13 UNC serrated flange nuts (part 20-00062), 4 1/2-13 UNC x 4-1/2" carriage bolts (part 10-10297), and 2 .250" spacer plates (part CM-12048-SP).
First, loosely secure the hitch with 1/2" hex flange nuts (step 4). Then align the bottom tabs of the hitch with the weldnuts in the frame rails and secure with M10-1.25 x 25mm bolts and 3/8" conical toothed washers (step 5). Finally, torque all 10mm hardware to 48 ft-lbs and all 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs (step 7).
For ease of installation, raise the driver side into position first, then raise the passenger side.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. This is an ongoing maintenance requirement, not a one-time check.
The CURT 12048 is designed for use with ballmount part number 45501. Euro mount options are available: part 45571 (1-7/8" ball) and part 45572 (2" ball).
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace it at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration, misuse, or improper installation voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Yes, the CURT 12048 is designed for the 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport/RVR Crossover.
Maximum 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No drilling required. Fascia trimming is required on 2020 model year and newer vehicles.
Torque wrench, ratchet, 14mm/17mm/19mm/3/4" sockets, 6" extension, aviation shears, rotary tool, and safety glasses.
Torque all 10mm hardware to 48 ft-lbs and all 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to do so voids the warranty.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound.
The CURT taillight converter (56496) is a module that converts a vehicle's taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat plug to vehicles that do not have a factory trailer connector. The converter interprets your vehicle's existing taillight signals (brake, turn, and tail lights) and outputs them through the 4-flat connector to power the trailer lights.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks. The manual provides wiring location guides for three vehicle categories: SUVs/vans (S-series locations), passenger cars (P-series locations), and pickup trucks (T-series locations). However, the manual does not provide a specific year, make, or model compatibility list. Contact CURT or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
The converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Before purchasing, confirm your vehicle uses a 12-volt negative ground system. If your vehicle uses a different voltage or positive ground system, this converter will not work. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to verify your system type.
Included with the converter: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. You must source separately: 12 gauge wire (or larger), 10-amp fuse (maximum), fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal. Alternatively, CURT part 55151 is a kit that includes these items. Tools needed: multimeter or test light for wiring identification, wire strippers, and a drill with 3/32" bit (if drilling a ground hole is necessary). A socket wrench or screwdriver may be needed to disconnect the battery terminal.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation instructions requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The negative terminal must remain disconnected until Step 7, after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed. This prevents electrical shorts and damage during installation.
The manual provides a 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' procedure on page 2. With the vehicle running and all lights off, probe the taillight connectors (still connected to the vehicle) using a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify which wires carry which signals. This determines whether your vehicle has a two-wire system (combined stop/turn with independent tail) or three-wire system (independent stop, turn, and tail signals). This information is essential for correctly splicing the converter wires in Step 4.
Mount the converter near the taillight. The manual provides a wiring location guide showing eight possible locations for SUVs/vans (S1–S8), seven for passenger cars (P1–P7), and five for pickup trucks (T1–T5). These locations are behind taillight housings, rear bumpers, rear access panels, or under rear floor panels, depending on vehicle type. Once you have selected the location, adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and secure it with the included cable ties. Ensure the area is clean and dry before applying the tape.
In Step 4, use snap locks to attach the converter's input wires to the corresponding vehicle harness wires. The converter has four input wires: red (brake), yellow (left turn), green (right turn), and brown (tail). The wiring installation table on page 3 shows which converter wire splices to which vehicle wire, depending on whether your vehicle has a two-wire or three-wire system. For a two-wire system: green splices to the right stop/turn wire, yellow to the left stop/turn wire, brown to the tail wire, and red is grounded. For a three-wire system: green splices to the right turn wire, red to the stop wire, yellow to the left turn wire, and brown to the tail wire. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks.
In Step 6, locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight. The white ground wire has a ring terminal attached. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, attach the ring terminal to that screw. If not, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean, rust-free, paint-free area of the vehicle frame and use the provided screw to secure the ring terminal. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire (or larger) from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. At the battery, use a ring terminal (not included) to attach the wire to the positive post. Install a 10-amp fuse (maximum) in a fuse holder (not included) on this power wire, positioned as close to the battery as possible. Install the fuse only after all other wiring steps are complete. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
In Step 7, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This prevents wires from moving, chafing, or becoming pinched during vehicle operation. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use, and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location when not in use.
The converter is rated for a maximum of 3.0 amps per signal circuit (left turn, right turn, brake) and 6.0 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings. Also do not exceed your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. The fuse holder and fuse are not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit. Install the fuse after all other wiring steps are complete and immediately before reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger to route from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery. This wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. The wire is not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit.
The converter has four input wires: red (brake signal), yellow (left turn signal), green (right turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). There is also a white ground wire with a ring terminal. Each input wire is spliced to the corresponding vehicle taillight wire using snap locks, according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire or three-wire system). The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal through a fused connection. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) that may be hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any wiring work. When routing the power wire to the battery, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Ensure the area where you ground the converter is free of rust, dirt, and paint. Do not exceed the converter's amperage rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running) or your vehicle's lamp load rating, as this can cause overheating and fire. Use a 10-amp maximum fuse on the battery connection.
The manual provides two testing methods. Method 1 (test light): Attach the ground lead of the tester to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat connector. Activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time. Probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. Method 2 (trailer): Mate the 4-flat with a trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a function on the trailer lights does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows the function is good, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter.
Included: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. Not included: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items must be purchased separately or as part of CURT part 55151 kit, which is sold separately.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and installing the fuse on the battery power wire, reinstall all items you removed during installation (trim panels, bumpers, etc.). Reconnect the negative battery terminal. When the converter is in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure the connector in a convenient out-of-the-way location to prevent damage.
The converter fits SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12-volt negative ground systems. The manual does not provide a specific year/make/model list. Contact CURT or check a fitment database with your vehicle details to confirm compatibility.
You must source: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery. These are available separately or as CURT part 55151 kit.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in Step 3 before wiring, and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed in Step 7.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing screw is not available near the taillight for grounding, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame. Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
Maximum 3.0 amps per signal circuit and 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector from the converter. Turn off the corresponding function on the vehicle (e.g., turn off the left turn signal if the left turn on the trailer is not working). Recheck the function using a circuit tester on the 4-flat receptacles. If the circuit tester shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter. If the circuit tester shows the function is not working, the converter or vehicle wiring connection may be faulty.
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