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2014 - 2019 Toyota Highlander
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 500 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 5,000 LB |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2014 - 2019 | Toyota Highlander | — |
Yes, the 14-19 Toyota Highlander 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2392 (Part #HBCW2392) is designed to fit the 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander.
The 14-19 Toyota Highlander 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2392 (Part #HBCW2392) fits the following vehicles: 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 14-19 Toyota Highlander 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2392 (Part #HBCW2392) fits 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander models. The 2019 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 14-19 Toyota Highlander 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2392 (Part #HBCW2392) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
CURT part number 13394 fits 2014–2018 Toyota Highlander and 2018–present Lexus RX350L models. Confirm your vehicle year and model match these applications before purchase.
This hitch is rated for a maximum trailer weight of 5,000 lbs and tongue weight of 500 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than the hitch rating.
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 10mm socket, 17mm socket, 19mm socket, 1/2" socket, 6" socket extension, screwdriver, and safety glasses. A rotary tool is optional. Proper tools will greatly improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
The hitch includes 6 M12×1.25 hex cap screws (part 10-10419) and 6 1/2" conical toothed washers (part 30-00149). These are used to secure the hitch to the frame weldnuts.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch aligns with existing weldnuts in the frame and uses existing threaded plastic inserts.
Two people may be required to ease installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Two trimming tasks are required: (1) Mark and trim the lower fascia exhaust air deflector 4 inches from the hinge to allow room for the hitch. (2) Trim plastic fascia tabs by removing lower fascia push pins to make room for the hitch to be raised into position. (3) Mark and trim the underbody panel using the trim diagram provided; dimensions are approximate, so confirm fit prior to trimming and use ribs of the underbody panel as cutting guides.
All M12 hardware (the supplied hex bolts and washers) must be torqued to 86 ft-lbs.
1. Remove 7 fasteners securing the driver side underbody panel and lower it. 2. Remove 4 rubber plugs from frame rails and unscrew 3 threaded plastic inserts from driver side frame rail. 3. Mark and trim the lower fascia exhaust air deflector 4 inches from the hinge. 4. Remove lower fascia push pins and trim plastic fascia tabs. 5. Remove 3 M12 bolts securing the metal fascia tab and tow loop from the passenger side frame rail. 6. Raise the hitch over the exhaust, align holes with frame weldnuts, and secure using supplied M12-1.25 hex bolts and 1/2" washers; torque to 86 ft-lbs. 7. Mark and trim underbody panel and reattach using fasteners from Step 1.
The following factory components are removed and returned to the owner: (1) 7 fasteners and underbody panel (which may be trimmed and reinstalled), (2) 4 rubber plugs from frame rails, (3) 3 threaded plastic inserts from driver side frame rail, (4) lower fascia push pins, (5) 3 M12 bolts, metal fascia tab, and tow loop from passenger side frame rail.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Before you begin installation, read all instructions thoroughly. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Periodically check this receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing maintenance is essential for safe operation.
The installation difficulty is rated as moderate. Professional installation time is approximately 60 minutes; novice (DIY) installation time is approximately 120 minutes.
No, CURT hitch 13394 does not require drilling. Installation involves part removal, trimming of the underbody panel, and trimming of the fascia only.
CURT 13394 fits 2014–2018 Toyota Highlander and 2018–present Lexus RX350L.
Maximum trailer weight 5,000 lbs, tongue weight 500 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No drilling required. Installation involves part removal and trimming of underbody panel and fascia only.
All M12 hardware must be torqued to 86 ft-lbs.
Professional installation: approximately 60 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation: approximately 120 minutes.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56452 is a wiring converter designed for SUVs and vans. It converts vehicle lighting signals to trailer lighting signals, allowing you to connect a trailer to your vehicle's electrical system. The converter processes turn signal, brake, and taillight circuits from your vehicle and outputs them through a 4-flat connector for trailer connection.
The Curt 56452 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not specify which vehicle models or years are compatible. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database with your vehicle's year, make and model to confirm compatibility before purchasing.
You will need: ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, panel trim removal tool, flathead screwdriver, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, fish wire (or equivalent such as a cut-up wire hanger or stiff wire), electrical tape, and a test light or 4-flat tester to verify function after installation. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The kit includes: a black converter box, a white ground wire with ring terminal, yellow and green signal wires, a 4-flat connector with dust cover, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing wires, a screw for the ground connection, and a fuse holder with 10-amp maximum fuse. The fuse must be installed after all other installation steps are complete.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle's battery in the engine compartment on the driver side and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. The battery must remain disconnected until all wiring is complete and tested.
The installation is rated as 'Easy' based on time and effort involved. However, the difficulty level may vary depending on your expertise, the condition of your vehicle, and whether you have proper tools and equipment. All steps must be followed to ensure the product functions properly.
Mount the black converter box on a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight using the provided double-sided tape. The area should be clean and dry to ensure the tape adheres properly. The converter should be positioned so that the wires can reach the taillight connectors and the power wire can be routed to the battery.
On the driver side, route fish wire down between the body and bumper cover. From under the vehicle, attach the fish wire to the housing with the yellow wire, then pull it back up and connect to the factory harness. Repeat on the passenger side with the green wire. Ensure all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. The yellow wire handles left turn signals and the green wire handles right turn signals.
Fish wire is a tool used to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole or cavity. It can be a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string. Insert the fish wire through the blind hole, locate it on the other side, use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire, then pull back up. If the wire gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist it to loosen it. The manual provides fish wire as a tool you must supply yourself.
Open the vehicle hatch. Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the taillight trim cover. Use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts securing the taillight and one bolt securing the bumper cover. Remove the taillights by pulling straight rearward. Separate the three connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Pay attention to connector locations, as two connectors are identical and could be reinstalled incorrectly.
Use a panel trim removal tool to loosen the bumper cover from the vehicle body. Pull the bumper cover back, then use a 10mm socket to remove the fastener securing the bumper mount. Once the bolt is loose, the bumper cover mount can be removed. Repeat this process on both the driver and passenger sides.
You should first locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing point is available, you may drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
If you need to drill a hole for the ground wire, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. This hole is for the provided screw that secures the white ground wire ring terminal to the vehicle body. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts securing the taillight and one bolt securing the bumper cover. You will also need a 10mm socket to remove the fastener securing the bumper mount.
Yellow wire = Left turn signal. Green wire = Right turn signal. Red wire = Brake signal. Brown wire = Taillight/running light. White wire = Ground. Black wire = Power (12-volt positive from battery). These colors connect to the 4-flat trailer connector and correspond to standard trailer lighting circuits.
Route 12-gauge wire or larger from the vehicle battery to the converter, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. Connect the black power wire to the positive battery (+) terminal. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. When passing through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect from sharp edges. Install the fuse holder with 10-amp maximum fuse after all other steps are complete.
Use 12-gauge wire or larger for the power connection from the vehicle battery to the converter. The manual specifies '12 GA wire or larger' on the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed 10 amps. The fuse holder is included with the kit and must be installed after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding the 10-amp rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Route the 4-flat connector to the trailer hitch and mount it in an easy-to-access location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Route the yellow wire (left turn) down between the body and bumper cover on the driver side. Route the green wire (right turn) down between the body and bumper cover on the passenger side. Route the green wire above the bumper supports. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties to prevent damage and ensure clean routing.
The converter system is designed for use only on 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. If your vehicle has a different electrical system configuration, the product will not function properly. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm your system type.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. The product is rated for 3.0 amps per side on signal circuits and 6.0 amps total on tail and running circuits. Exceeding these ratings can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Check your vehicle owner's manual for your vehicle's lamp load rating.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Test all circuits: left turn, right turn, brake, and taillight. All steps must be followed to ensure the product functions properly before using with a trailer.
After installation, verify all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Test the converter using a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer to confirm all circuits work: left turn (yellow), right turn (green), brake (red), and taillight (brown). Reinstall all items removed during installation. Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to prevent corrosion.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the 4-flat connector dust cover to ensure it remains in place to prevent corrosion. Inspect cable ties to ensure wires remain secure and properly routed.
The Curt 56452 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Confirm your vehicle's compatibility with Curt Manufacturing or a fitment database before purchasing.
Drilling is optional. You may use an existing ground point on the vehicle frame, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole if needed. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind surfaces to avoid damage.
The converter requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your system type.
If the fish wire or harness gets hung up on something during routing, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it from what it is caught on. The manual notes this is a common occurrence and provides these techniques to resolve it without damaging the wire.
First, verify that all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Check that the yellow wire (left turn) and green wire (right turn) are properly connected to the factory harness. Verify the white ground wire is securely attached to a clean, rust-free grounding point. Confirm the black power wire is connected to the positive battery terminal with a ring terminal and that the 10-amp fuse is installed. Test each circuit (left turn, right turn, brake, taillight) using a test light or 4-flat tester. If still not functioning, check that the negative battery terminal is reconnected.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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