Our in-house experts typically reply within one business day.
CURT
Verify Fitment
Select your vehicle to confirm this part fits.
2014 - 2019 Toyota Highlander
Confirmed to Fit
Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
Free Shipping!
Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
Free Shipping!
On Sale Today
Original price was $854.60. Current price is $635.36.You save $219.24 (26%)
Free Shipping
Ships free on all orders
Authorized Dealer| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 5,000 LB |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| T-Connector Location | S3 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2014 - 2019 | Toyota Highlander | — |
Quick Ship
In stock and ready to ship — order now!
FREE ShippingFREE SHIPPING
Estimated delivery Sun, Aug 30 - Wed, Sep 2
Order before 2 PM EST Monday–Friday for same-day processing
Guaranteed safe & secure checkout
The 14-19 Toyota Highlander 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2393 (Part #HBCW2393) fits the following vehicles: 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 14-19 Toyota Highlander 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2393 (Part #HBCW2393) is designed to fit the 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander.
The 14-19 Toyota Highlander 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2393 (Part #HBCW2393) fits 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander models. The 2019 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 14-19 Toyota Highlander 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2393 (Part #HBCW2393) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, Curt part number 13534 is designed to fit all Toyota Highlander models, including hybrid versions.
The manual specifies a gross load capacity of 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 750 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower. Check your vehicle's owner manual for the final limit.
All non-trailer loads applied to this hitch must be supported by Curt 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
You will need: 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, 5" extension, flat head screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver, torque wrench, and a cutting tool. The torque wrench is essential for the final fastening step.
Yes. You must remove all plastic underbody panels to access the frame rail weld nuts. The manual requires removal of push fasteners and bolts from these panels in Step 1. You can either return the panels to the vehicle owner or trim and reinstall them after hitch installation.
Yes. Step 2 requires you to remove both tow loops using a 14mm socket and return them to the vehicle owner.
No drilling is required. The hitch uses existing holes in the frame rail and existing weld nuts. The manual explicitly states "NO DRILLING REQUIRED."
Trimming is optional. The manual states "TRIM UNDER BODY PANEL (OPTIONAL)." If you choose to trim, the driver side requires a long thin cut 7.50" from the edge of the large hole and 2.50" deep, plus trimming the corner along panel seams. The passenger side horizontal cut should align with the top of the rib. If you do not trim, you can return the panels to the owner.
The hitch includes 7 M10×1.25×30 hex head cap screws (part 10-10271) and 7 conical tooth washers 7/16" (part 30-00163). These fasteners are installed into the existing frame rail weld nuts.
Carefully raise the hitch over the exhaust towards the muffler and pull it back towards the bumper, positioning it so the steel strap is above the exhaust tip and the plastic flange sits on the bumper fascia. Align the hitch holes with the existing holes in the frame rail before installing fasteners.
All M10×1.25 bolts must be torqued to 48 lb-ft using a torque wrench.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection helps maintain the integrity and safety of the installation.
Step 2 requires removal of 3 rubber plugs from the passenger side and 1 rubber plug from the driver side. These plugs cover the existing weld nuts in the frame rails.
Yes, the Curt 13534 is designed for all Toyota Highlander models, including hybrids.
No. The hitch uses existing frame rail holes and weld nuts. No drilling is required.
You need a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, 5" extension, flat and Phillips head screwdrivers, a torque wrench, and a cutting tool.
Torque all M10×1.25 bolts to 48 lb-ft.
The hitch is rated for 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 750 lbs tongue weight, but you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes. Remove both tow loops using a 14mm socket in Step 2.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56042 custom wiring connector is designed for Toyota Highlander models equipped with a towing prep package. Your vehicle must have the towing prep package to be compatible. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm whether your specific Highlander has the towing prep package installed.
No. The Curt 56042 is designed specifically for Toyota Highlander models with a towing prep package. If your vehicle does not have the towing prep package, this connector will not be compatible. Contact the vehicle manufacturer or check your owner's manual to verify whether your Highlander has the towing prep package.
The Curt 56042 is a custom wiring connector that provides a 4-flat connector interface for trailer lighting on compatible vehicles. It connects to your vehicle's 4-pin taillight wiring harness, allowing you to safely connect a trailer with standard 4-flat lighting connectors.
No special tools are required for installation of the Curt 56042 connector. The installation involves removing interior access panels and connecting the wiring harness by hand.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected. For safety, consult your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer before beginning installation.
On the Toyota Highlander with towing prep package, the 4-pin taillight wiring harness connector is located behind the driver side rear access panel. You will need to open the tailgate and remove the driver side access panels, threshold, trunk floor panels and trays to access it.
Locate the vehicle's 4-pin taillight wiring harness connector on the driver side behind the rear access panel. Insert the custom wiring connector into the vehicle connector, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. The connectors will be similar in design to each other.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties to prevent tangling and damage.
Yes. A 4-flat dust cover is provided with the Curt 56042 connector. Install it after completing the wiring connection to help prevent corrosion.
Yes. Cable ties are provided with the Curt 56042 connector. Use them to secure any loose wires during installation.
The manual states that you must not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. However, the specific product rating is not provided in the installation manual. Contact Curt Manufacturing or check the product documentation for the exact amperage or wattage rating.
Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
After installation, test for proper function by using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring connector will function properly.
Yes. You must open the vehicle tailgate to access the driver side rear access panels, threshold, trunk floor panels and trays that need to be removed to reach the 4-pin taillight wiring harness connector.
Yes, if your Highlander has a towing prep package. Verify this in your owner's manual or contact Toyota.
No special tools are required. Installation involves removing interior panels and hand-connecting the wiring harness.
Yes, a 4-flat dust cover is provided to help prevent corrosion.
The manual does not specify the product rating. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, to avoid warranty loss, overheating and fire.
Test for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
No reviews have been added for this product.