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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 150 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 1,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2014 - 2024 | Mitsubishi Mirage | Hatchback |
The 14-24 Mitsubishi Mirage Hatchback 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1980 (Part #HBCW1980) fits the following vehicles: 2014-2024 Mitsubishi Mirage. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 14-24 Mitsubishi Mirage Hatchback 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1980 (Part #HBCW1980) fits 2014-2024 Mitsubishi Mirage models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 14-24 Mitsubishi Mirage Hatchback 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1980 (Part #HBCW1980) is designed to fit the 2014-2024 Mitsubishi Mirage.
The 14-24 Mitsubishi Mirage Hatchback 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1980 (Part #HBCW1980) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT 11449 is designed for 2017-Present Mitsubishi Mirage G4 Sedan models. Verify your vehicle matches this specification before purchasing.
CURT 11449 is rated for a maximum of 1,500 lbs trailer weight and 150 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
CURT 11449 is designed for use with ballmount #45521. Euro mount options are available: #45571 (1 7/8" ball) or #45572 (2" ball).
Required tools: ratchet, 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 13mm socket, 9/16" socket, 6" extension, screwdriver, torque wrench, die grinder, and safety glasses. A torque wrench is essential for proper fastener tightening.
The kit includes: 2× M8×1.25×30 hex head cap screws (10-10440), 2× 3/8" S-con washers (30-00148), 2× 3/8"-16 UNC 1-1/2" carriage bolts (10-10321), 1× U-bolt (10-10566), 4× 3/8"-16 UNC serrated flange nuts (20-00102), 2× 3/8" fishwire, and 2× spacers (11449-SP).
Two people may be required to ease installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. Call CURT Technical Support at 877-287-8634 for help.
Yes. Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product.
No drilling is required. However, hole enlargement using a die grinder is required on the forward-most passenger side frame rail hole. Underbody panel trimming is optional.
The forward-most hole on the passenger side frame rail must be enlarged using a die grinder. The enlarged hole accommodates the 3/8" carriage bolt and spacer that are fishwired through the large access hole in the passenger side frame rail.
Underbody panel trimming is optional. If you choose to trim, use the contours of the hitch as a guide and refer to the trim diagram provided in the installation instructions.
The 3/8" carriage bolts must be tightened to 37 ft-lbs.
The M8 bolts must be tightened to 23 ft-lbs.
1. Remove the plastic panel from the driver side by removing 2 M6 screws and 2 plastic clips. Lower the canister by removing 4 M8 screws and 1 M6 screw. Remove 2 M10 screws to expose the frame rail. 2. Enlarge the forward-most passenger side frame rail hole. Fishwire the 3/8" carriage bolts and spacers through the access hole. 3. Place the U-bolt in the vehicle recovery loop. Raise the hitch into position and loosely secure with M8 bolts and washers on the driver side, then secure remaining fasteners with 3/8" flange nuts. 4. Tighten 3/8" bolts to 37 ft-lbs and M8 bolts to 23 ft-lbs. Reinstall all removed components in reverse order.
Remove 2 M6 screws using a 10mm socket and 2 plastic clips from the plastic panel. Then remove 4 M8 screws using a 12mm socket and 1 M6 screw using a 10mm socket to lower the canister. Save all fasteners for reinstallation.
Save all fasteners removed during step 1 (2 M6 screws, 2 plastic clips, 4 M8 screws, 1 M6 screw) and step 2 (2 M10 screws). These must be reinstalled in reverse order after the hitch is secured.
Fishwiring is a technique to route fasteners through tight spaces. For CURT 11449, you fishwire the 3/8" carriage bolt and spacer through the large access hole in the passenger side frame rail and out the enlarged hole. You then reverse fishwire the remaining 3/8" carriage bolt and spacer back into the access hole.
No. The M8 bolts should be loosely secured initially to allow the hitch to be positioned correctly. All fasteners are tightened in the final step: 3/8" bolts to 37 ft-lbs and M8 bolts to 23 ft-lbs.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing maintenance is essential for safe operation.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this product must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. CURT 11449 is rated for 1,500 lbs trailer weight and 150 lbs tongue weight, but you must follow your vehicle's specifications, which may be lower.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify an exact interval, but regular inspection is recommended for safe operation.
CURT 11449 fits 2017-Present Mitsubishi Mirage G4 Sedan only.
Ratchet, 10mm/12mm/13mm/9/16" sockets, 6" extension, screwdriver, torque wrench, die grinder, and safety glasses.
No drilling required. Hole enlargement with a die grinder is required on the passenger side frame rail. Underbody panel trimming is optional.
Tighten 3/8" bolts to 37 ft-lbs and M8 bolts to 23 ft-lbs.
Yes. All non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to do so voids the warranty.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56223 Custom Wiring Harness is designed for Mitsubishi Mirage passenger cars. The harness connects to the vehicle's taillight wiring in the trunk behind the driver and passenger side taillight housings.
Mitsubishi Mirage (passenger cars only).
The harness has two circuit ratings: Signal Circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side, and Tail/Running Circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Signal Circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running Circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these or the vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
A panel trim removal tool is required. Depending on the grounding location, you may also need a drill with a 3/32" bit if a suitable existing screw with nut is not available on the vehicle frame.
Panel trim removal tool. Drill with 3/32" bit may be needed for grounding point if no existing screw is available.
Yes. Step 2 of the installation instructions requires you to locate the vehicle battery on the driver side under the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal before proceeding with the installation.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation.
The vehicle wiring harness connectors are located in the trunk behind the taillight housings. Position P3 is behind the driver side taillight housing, and position P4 is behind the passenger side taillight housing, both inside the trunk.
1. Access vehicle wiring connectors in trunk at positions P3 and P4. 2. Disconnect negative battery terminal. 3. Remove trunk floor coverings. 4. Remove scuff panel. 5. Remove push fasteners from driver side trim panel. 6. Locate and separate taillight connectors carefully. 7. Insert T-connector with yellow wire between separated connectors on driver side. 8. Secure white ground wire to vehicle frame using provided screw. 9. Route T-connector with green wire to passenger side and repeat steps 5-7. 10. Adhere converter box inside vehicle near taillight using double-sided tape. 11. Route 4-flat connector to vehicle center when in use; store when not in use. 12. Reinstall removed items and reconnect battery. Install 4-flat dust cover.
Locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors behind the side trim panel. Carefully separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the T-connector end (yellow wire for driver side, green wire for passenger side) between the separated connectors. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
The T-connector with the yellow wire is installed on the driver side (position P3) behind the driver side taillight housing. The T-connector with the green wire is routed to and installed on the passenger side (position P4) behind the passenger side taillight housing. The colour coding helps identify which connector goes to each side of the vehicle.
Drilling may be required for the grounding point. Step 8 instructs you to locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint before securing the white ground wire.
Only if no existing screw with nut is available for the ground wire. If drilling is needed, use a 3/32" pilot hole.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided grounding screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The grounding area should be free of rust, dirt and paint.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw if no existing screw is available. Ensure the area is free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. When the harness is in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, roll up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the vehicle. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Do not exceed the product rating (Signal Circuits 3.0 amps per side, Tail/Running Circuits 6.0 amps total) or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed 3.0 amps per side (Signal) or 6.0 amps total (Tail/Running), or the vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when locating the grounding point for the white ground wire.
All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly. Once installed, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. This confirms that the connections are correct and the harness is operating as intended.
Use a test light or connect a properly wired trailer to verify proper function.
Remove the trunk floor coverings, the scuff panel (by pulling out on the bottom, then up), and the push fasteners from the side trim panel on both the driver and passenger sides to access the taillight wiring harness connectors.
Pull out on the bottom of the scuff panel, then pull up to remove it. This provides access to the side trim panel and taillight wiring connectors.
The harness includes T-connectors with yellow and green wires, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a black converter box, a 4-flat connector with dust cover, a grounding screw, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, and cable ties for securing loose wires.
Use the provided cable ties to secure any loose wires. This applies when routing the T-connector to the passenger side and when managing the 4-flat connector and other wiring inside the vehicle.
Reinstall all items removed during installation (trunk floor coverings, scuff panel, side trim panels) and ensure all connections are secure before reconnecting the negative battery terminal. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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