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2015 - 2023 Jeep Renegade
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| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 525 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | n/a |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | n/a |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S3,S4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2015 - 2023 | Jeep Renegade | — |
Yes, the 15-23 JEEP Renegade 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1571 (Part #HBCW1571) is designed to fit the 2015-2023 Jeep Renegade.
The 15-23 JEEP Renegade 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1571 (Part #HBCW1571) fits the following vehicles: 2015-2023 Jeep Renegade. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 15-23 JEEP Renegade 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1571 (Part #HBCW1571) fits 2015-2023 Jeep Renegade models. The 2023 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 15-23 JEEP Renegade 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1571 (Part #HBCW1571) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT 13269 is designed for 2015-present Jeep Renegade SUVs. The installation process differs slightly for Trailhawk models, which use factory M14 bolts instead of the standard fishwire and carriage bolt method.
Maximum trailer weight is 3,500 lbs and tongue weight is 525 lbs. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Required tools: torque wrench, 3/4" socket, 21mm socket, 8" extension, die grinder, ratchet, utility knife, offset screwdriver, universal joint socket, and safety glasses. A 1/2" fishwire is also required for the installation technique.
Wheel removal is optional but recommended. The manual notes that removal of rear wheels may ease installation, particularly for accessing the passenger-side wheel well where an access panel must be removed.
No drilling is required. However, hole enlargement is required: the rearmost hole on each frame rail must be enlarged to 1.125" diameter using a die grinder to allow carriage bolts and spacers to be inserted.
Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 ft.-lbs. For Trailhawk models using factory M14 hardware, torque to 135 ft.-lbs.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This should be done regularly throughout the life of the product.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required.
The hitch includes: (6) 1/2" fishwires, (6) 1/2-13 UNC Grade 8 carriage bolts (part 10-10272), (6) 1/2-13 UNC Grade 8 serrated flange nuts (part 20-00062), and (8) 0.250 x 1.00 x 2.50" square hole spacers (part CM-SP10).
Yes. Trailhawk models use factory M14 bolts instead of the standard fishwire and carriage bolt method. In Step 1, remove (3) M14 bolts on each frame rail using a 21mm socket and save them for reinstallation. Skip the hole enlargement step (Step 2) and proceed directly to Step 5. Torque the M14 hardware to 135 ft.-lbs instead of 110 ft.-lbs.
Remove (1) rubber plug on the bottom of each frame rail and (2) rubber plugs on the outside of each frame rail. For Trailhawk models, remove (3) M14 bolts on each frame rail instead and save them for reinstallation.
On the passenger side, remove (2) plastic screws retaining an access panel located in the wheel well using an offset Phillips screwdriver. Save these screws for reinstallation. Clear away caulk as necessary near mounting holes using a utility knife before this step.
The rearmost hole on each frame rail must be enlarged to 1.125" diameter using a die grinder. This enlargement is required to allow the 1/2" carriage bolts and CM-SP10 spacers to be inserted into the frame rail. This step does not apply to Trailhawk models.
Fishwire (2) 1/2" carriage bolts and (2) CM-SP10 spacers into the holes on the outside of each frame rail. Reverse fishwire (1) 1/2" carriage bolt and (1) CM-SP10 into the hole on the bottom of each frame rail. Keep fishwires attached until the hitch is raised into position. The fishwires are used to thread the bolts through the frame rail holes before the hitch is installed.
After raising the hitch into position, thread the fishwires into the mounting holes. On the bottom attachments, place a CM-SP10 spacer on the bolt and loosely install all 1/2" flange nuts using a 3/4" socket. For Trailhawk models, raise the hitch and loosely install the factory M14 hardware that was removed in Step 1. Do not fully tighten until the next step.
Use a 3/4" socket for the 1/2" hex flange nuts. For Trailhawk models using factory M14 hardware, use a 21mm socket.
After torquing all fasteners to specification, reinstall the access panel and plastic screws that were removed in Step 3 on the passenger side wheel well.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. This is required because the installation involves using a die grinder and other power tools.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace it at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration, misuse, or improper installation voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
This product complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5 and SAE J684.
Call CURT Technical Support at 877-287-8634 if you need help or have questions. You can also visit www.curtmfg.com for more information or www.hitchinfo.com for helpful towing tips.
The CM-SP10 is a 0.250 x 1.00 x 2.50" square hole spacer. Eight spacers are included with CURT 13269. They are placed on the bolts during installation: (2) on each of the outside frame rail holes and (1) on each of the bottom frame rail holes.
A 1/2" fishwire is a tool used to thread the carriage bolts through the frame rail holes before the hitch is installed. Six fishwires are included with CURT 13269. They are kept attached to the bolts until the hitch is raised into position.
The rearmost hole on each frame rail must be enlarged to 1.125" diameter using a die grinder before the bolts can be inserted. If you have not yet enlarged this hole, do so now. This step does not apply to Trailhawk models, which use factory M14 bolts instead.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. If fasteners are found to be loose, retorque them to specification: 110 ft.-lbs for 1/2" hardware or 135 ft.-lbs for M14 hardware on Trailhawk models.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56274 is designed for Jeep Renegade SUVs. The manual confirms it fits this model. For specific model years or trim levels not listed, contact the manufacturer or check the CME-PCL-INS sheet included with the product.
You will need: 1/4" socket, 10mm socket, T-25 Torx bit, T-30 Torx bit, T-40 Torx bit, ratchet, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, crimping tool, and cutting tool.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery on the driver side under the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Signal circuits are rated at 7.5 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Yes. You must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the grounding screw, unless a suitable existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame near the taillight connector. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness will function properly.
The package includes the custom wiring harness with yellow and green wire ends, a black converter box, a white ground wire with ring terminal and provided screw, double-sided tape for the converter box, a 4-flat connector, a 4-flat dust cover, and cable ties for wire management. The CME-PCL-INS sheet with power wire routing information is also included.
Open the tailgate and remove: all trunk floor coverings and storage trays, two cargo tie downs, three fasteners securing the scuff panel, the push fastener from the upper trim panel on the driver side, and the fastener for the lower trim panel. Repeat the trim panel removal on the passenger side. The manual warns to take care not to damage alignment tabs on the scuff panel and locking tabs on the connectors.
The custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire is inserted between the separated vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors on the driver side, behind the taillight. The connectors must be fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
The custom wiring harness end with the green wire is routed to the passenger side behind the removed scuff panel and inserted between the separated vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors on the passenger side, following the same procedure as the driver side yellow wire connection.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw. The manual warns to check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under surfaces before drilling.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape.
Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the included CME-PCL-INS sheet. This sheet provides specific routing instructions for your vehicle.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Reinstall all items removed during installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal, and install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Test the harness for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the grounding screw, unless a suitable existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint before drilling.
Check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The harness has a yellow wire end that connects to the driver side taillight connectors, a green wire end that connects to the passenger side taillight connectors, a white ground wire that connects to a grounding point near the taillight, and a black power wire that routes from the vehicle battery according to the included CME-PCL-INS sheet.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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