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1976 - 1993 Jeep Jeep
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| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 675 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 4,500 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 5,500 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 750 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Universal, Potted, Powered, Protected, PWM |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1976 - 1993 | Jeep Jeep | — |
The 76-93 JEEP JEEP 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1529 (Part #HBCW1529) fits 1976-1993 Jeep Jeep models. The 1993 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 76-93 JEEP JEEP 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1529 (Part #HBCW1529) fits the following vehicles: 1976-1993 Jeep Jeep. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 76-93 JEEP JEEP 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1529 (Part #HBCW1529) is designed to fit the 1976-1993 Jeep Jeep.
The 76-93 JEEP JEEP 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1529 (Part #HBCW1529) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The CURT 13395 is a Class II receiver hitch designed for 2019-present Jeep Cherokee SUVs. It is a weight-carrying hitch that can also be used as a weight distribution hitch. The hitch weighs 70 lbs.
Yes, the CURT 13395 is designed for 2019-present Jeep Cherokee SUVs. Confirm your vehicle year and model match before purchasing.
Yes, the CURT 13395 fits Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk models. However, Trailhawk installation differs: you must remove the rear vertical and horizontal M14 existing bolts from the frame with a 21mm socket and save them for reassembly. Only the reverse fishwire hardware and the M14 bolts removed are used during installation.
The CURT 13395 has two capacity ratings depending on how it is used. As a weight-carrying hitch: 4,500 lbs trailer weight and 675 lbs tongue weight. As a weight distribution hitch: 5,500 lbs trailer weight and 750 lbs tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The hitch weighs 70 lbs.
The CURT 13395 includes: 6 Grade 8 yellow zinc plated 1/2"-13 UNC bolts (1-1/2" long, part 10-10287), 6 Grade 8 yellow zinc plated 1/2"-13 UNC serrated flange nuts (part 20-00062), 6 pieces of 1/2" fishwire (part 1_2 FISHWIRE), and 6 square hole spacers 0.250" × 1.00" × 3.00" (part CM-SP6).
Required tools: ratchet, torque wrench, sockets (13mm, 15mm, 21mm, 3/4"), 9" socket extension, aviation shears, and safety glasses. Proper tools greatly improve installation quality and reduce time required.
No, drilling is not required to install the CURT 13395. The hitch uses existing frame access holes for hardware routing.
Yes, you must temporarily remove the exhaust system. The exhaust is removed by unbolting the hanger bracket and clamp, then reinstalled after the hitch is secured. No other permanent part removal is required.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual recommends having a second person available to help, though the installation may be possible with one person.
Installation time varies by experience level. Professional installers typically complete the installation in 42 minutes. Novice DIY installers should allow 70 minutes.
The first step is to remove the exhaust system. Remove the two bolts connecting the exhaust hanger bracket from the frame using a 13mm socket on both sides. Then use a 15mm socket to loosen the exhaust clamp just forward of the muffler and remove the rear portion of the exhaust from the vehicle. Support the exhaust from underneath during the installation process.
Fishwire is used to route hardware through the frame access holes. In Step 3, you thread the rear and side hardware through the access hole in the frame using fishwire, then reverse the fishwire to pull the hardware into the access hole on both sides. This allows you to secure the hitch without drilling new holes.
After fishwiring the hardware through the frame access holes, raise the hitch into position and loosely secure it with the hardware. Be careful not to push the hardware inside the vehicle frame. Do not fully tighten the fasteners at this stage; they are tightened to final torque specification in Step 5.
Trimming of the exhaust bezel may be required on some models. After raising the hitch into position, check the trim fitment around the hitch. Additional trimming may be required, and seam foam may need to be trimmed for proper fitment. The extent of trimming varies by vehicle condition and configuration.
Torque the 1/2" hardware to 110 lb-ft. If M14 hardware is present (on Trailhawk models), torque those bolts to 139 lb-ft. Use a calibrated torque wrench to ensure proper fastener tension.
On Trailhawk models, torque the M14 hardware to 139 lb-ft. These are the existing factory bolts removed from the frame in Step 2 and reused during installation.
The final step is to raise the exhaust back to its original position and secure the exhaust bracket bolts. If a wire was removed from the passenger side frame rail in Step 2, reattach it to its original position. After completion, periodically check that all fasteners remain tight and all structural components are sound.
Trailhawk models require additional steps: In Step 2, remove the rear vertical and horizontal M14 existing bolts from the frame using a 21mm socket and save them for reassembly. If a wire is present on the passenger side frame rail, unfasten it by pulling the retainer out of the frame and let it hang below the frame rail. In Step 3, only the reverse fishwire hardware and the M14 bolts removed in Step 2 are used for Trailhawk installation. Torque the M14 bolts to 139 lb-ft in Step 5.
If a wire is present on the passenger side frame rail (typically on Trailhawk models), unfasten it by pulling the retainer out of the frame and let the wire hang below the frame rail during installation. After the hitch is secured and the exhaust is reinstalled, reattach the wire to its original position.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing the CURT 13395. Support the exhaust from underneath during removal and installation to prevent injury. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning installation.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The CURT 13395 supports up to 4,500 lbs trailer weight (weight-carrying) or 5,500 lbs (weight distribution), but your vehicle's manufacturer specifications may be lower and must be followed.
After installation, verify that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. Periodically check the hitch during use to ensure fasteners remain tight and components remain in good condition. Retorque fasteners if any loosening is detected.
Periodically check the CURT 13395 to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify an exact inspection interval, but regular checks before and after towing are recommended to maintain safety and prevent fastener loosening.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 56406 is designed for SUVs and Vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your system is 12-volt negative ground. If you are unsure, contact CURT or your vehicle manufacturer for confirmation of compatibility.
The CURT 56406 has the following electrical ratings: Signal circuits 5.0-amps per side, and Tail/Running circuits 7.5-amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding this fuse rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
The following tools are required: Ratchet, Utility knife, Socket 1/4", Wire crimper, Torx bit T-27, Wire stripper, Socket extension, and Fish wire.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Be sure to fasten this wire down and away from the battery when completing the installation process. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete.
Mount the converter box using the provided double-sided tape on a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
Route the black 12-gauge power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
You may use an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame as a grounding point, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw if no suitable existing point is available. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
The CURT 56406 uses the following wire colors: Yellow for left turn signal, Green for right turn signal, Red for brake, and Brown for taillight. The white wire is the ground wire. The black wire connects to the positive battery terminal.
Locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end (yellow wire for driver side, green wire for passenger side) between the separated connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Then reinstall the taillight.
Secure the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle in a convenient, out-of-the-way location or to the rear hitch. Use the provided cable ties to secure any loose wires. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Once installed, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the product will function properly.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections.
The installation difficulty level is rated as Moderate.
The CURT 56406 is designed for SUVs and Vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Verify your vehicle has a 12-volt negative ground system by checking your owner's manual or contacting your vehicle manufacturer.
Required tools are: Ratchet, Utility knife, Socket 1/4", Wire crimper, Torx bit T-27, Wire stripper, Socket extension, and Fish wire.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete.
Drilling may be required. You can use an existing screw in the vehicle frame for grounding, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole if no suitable existing point is available. Check for hidden items before drilling.
A 15-amp maximum fuse is required for the battery connection. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Signal circuits: 5.0-amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 7.5-amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Mount the converter box using the provided double-sided tape on a flat, clean surface away from spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Failure to mount in a protected area can cause loss of warranty and product failure.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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