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2016 - 2020 Volvo XC90
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 900 LBS |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 6,000 LBS |
| T-Connector Location | S3,S4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2016 - 2020 | Volvo XC90 | — |
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, Curt part number 56045 is designed for the Volvo XC-90. The installation manual is specific to this vehicle model.
You must remove the rear cargo door, floor trim, and access panels on each side of the vehicle to access the taillight wiring harness and power cable stud.
The taillight wiring harness is located inside the access panel area on the driver's side. You will find a matching harness on the passenger side. Both must be accessed after removing the floor trim and access panels.
Separate the taillight wiring connectors on both the driver's and passenger sides, being careful not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the T-Connector end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors on the driver's side, ensuring the locking tabs are in place. Repeat this process on the passenger side.
Route the T-Connector end with the green wire through the trim panel access hole, along the threshold, and through the trim panel access hole on the opposite side. Repeat this routing on the passenger side.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided in the kit.
Drilling is required only if a suitable grounding point does not already exist near the connector. If needed, drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided. Always verify that no hidden items are behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
Locate the vehicle's power cable stud on the driver's side. Remove the nut using a wrench or socket. Place the T-Connector's yellow ring terminal on the end of the fuse holder on the stud.
Adhere the black converter box to the frame of the vehicle using the double-sided tape provided in the kit.
Secure any loose parts of the T-Connector with the cable ties provided in the kit.
When in use, route the 4-flat wire to the center of the vehicle and out of the hatch. When not in use, roll up the wire and store it in an out-of-the-way location in the trunk.
Yes, you must replace all items removed during installation, including the rear cargo door, floor trim, and access panels.
You will need a wrench or socket to remove the nut from the vehicle's power cable stud. A drill with a 3/32" bit is required only if you need to create a grounding hole. The kit includes cable ties, an eyelet, a screw, and double-sided tape.
Before drilling, verify that no miscellaneous items are hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
When separating the taillight wiring connectors, be careful not to damage the locking tabs, as these must remain intact to secure the T-Connector.
The Curt 56045 is designed for the Volvo XC-90.
You need a wrench or socket to remove the power cable stud nut. A drill with a 3/32" bit is required only if a grounding point must be created. The kit includes cable ties, eyelet, screw, and double-sided tape.
Drilling is required only if no suitable grounding point exists on the vehicle frame. If drilling is needed, a 3/32" hole is drilled and the white wire is secured with the provided eyelet and screw.
Remove the rear cargo door, floor trim, and access panels on each side to access the taillight harness and power cable stud.
Before drilling, verify that no hidden items are behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
The CURT 13467 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 6,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 900 lbs. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than the hitch rating.
Yes. Installation requires removal of the rear bumper fascia and bumper beam. The bumper beam is removed by unscrewing three or four M10 flange nuts from both sides of the vehicle, and the fascia is removed by pressing clips and unplugging one or two electrical connectors. Both are reinstalled after the hitch is mounted.
Required tools are: ratchet, utility knife, 15mm socket, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, tape measure, T-20 Torx bit, paint marker, tin snips, and pry tool. A full tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
No drilling is required. The hitch uses existing M10 weldnuts on the vehicle frame. However, trimming is required: the heat shield must be trimmed with a centered rectangle 3 inches up from the bottom and 4 inches wide, plus rectangles 4 inches up from the bottom and 5 inches wide at both ends. The rear bumper fascia must also be trimmed with a centered rectangle 2.5 inches from the frontmost edge at the bottom and 3.5 inches wide.
The heat shield must be trimmed in three locations: (1) a centered rectangle 3 inches up from the bottom and 4 inches wide; (2) a rectangle 4 inches up from the bottom and 5 inches wide at the driver side; (3) a rectangle 4 inches up from the bottom and 5 inches wide at the passenger side. Use tin snips or a utility knife to make these cuts.
The rear bumper fascia must be trimmed with a centered rectangle 2.5 inches from the frontmost edge at the bottom of the fascia and 3.5 inches wide. This cut is made after the hitch is mounted and the bumper beam is reinstalled.
All M10 hardware must be torqued to 45 lb-ft. This includes the M10 flange nuts from the bumper beam and the provided M10 hex bolts with conical washers. The manual recommends torquing upper nuts first, then lower nuts, on each side of the vehicle.
The kit includes two M10-1.5 x 45mm Class 10.9 hex bolts and two 7/16-inch conical-toothed washers. These are used only if weld nuts are accessible in the bumper end panel on both sides. The hitch also reuses existing M10 flange nuts from the bumper beam.
Yes. In Step 2, you must remove two bump stops, one from each side of the vehicle inside the trunk. These are set aside and reinstalled in Step 7 after the hitch is mounted and the bumper beam is back in place.
Start with the lower nuts on the passenger side, push on the bumper beam, and screw the nut on just enough for thread engagement. Repeat on the lower nuts on the driver side. Loosely install the upper nuts on both sides. Then torque the upper nuts and lower nuts on the passenger side to 45 lb-ft. Repeat the torquing sequence on the driver side.
To remove debris from weldnuts in the frame, spray lubricant or compressed air into the hole. For heavy debris, use a wire brush. Take care not to damage the threads.
The conical-toothed washer must be installed with the toothed side facing the hitch side plate, and the flat side facing outward. The hex bolt passes through the washer into the weldnut.
Yes. The three or four M10 flange nuts removed from the bumper beam in Step 4 are reinstalled in Step 6 after the hitch is positioned. These fasteners are reused and torqued to 45 lb-ft.
The fascia mounting tabs are bent twice: (1) gently bent rearward in Step 5 to allow clearance for the trailer hitch before the heat shield is trimmed; (2) gently bent forward in Step 5 to align with the holes in the heat shield after trimming; (3) bent again in Step 8 to line up with the holes in the fascia before reinstalling fasteners.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. Additionally, never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, even though the hitch is rated for 6,000 lbs GTW and 900 lbs tongue weight.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify the inspection interval.
Yes. When removing the rear bumper fascia in Step 3, you must unplug one or two electrical connectors from the fascia. These connectors are plugged back in when the fascia is reinstalled in Step 7.
If applicable, trim the caulk around the bumper beam when removing it in Step 4. The manual notes this is conditional ("if applicable"), suggesting not all vehicles have caulk that requires trimming.
The four screws removed from the bottom of the fascia in Step 1 must be set aside and reinstalled in Step 8 after the hitch is fully mounted and the fascia mounting tabs are aligned with the fascia holes.
The manual does not specify the vehicle make, model, or year. Contact CURT at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your vehicle.
Gross trailer weight: 6,000 lbs. Tongue weight: 900 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
All M10 hardware must be torqued to 45 lb-ft.
Ratchet, 15mm socket, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, utility knife, T-20 Torx bit, tape measure, paint marker, tin snips, and pry tool.
Yes. The rear bumper fascia and bumper beam must be removed for installation and then reinstalled.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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