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| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,500 LBS |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 250 LBS |
| Converter Type | Universal, Potted, Powered, Protected, PWM |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | Blank |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2017 - 2022 | Hyundai Ioniq | Excluding Electric or Plug: In |
The 17-22 Hyundai Ioniq Excluding Electric or Plug-In 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1423 (Part #HBCW1423) fits the following vehicles: 2017-2022 Hyundai Ioniq. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 17-22 Hyundai Ioniq Excluding Electric or Plug-In 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1423 (Part #HBCW1423) fits 2017-2022 Hyundai Ioniq models. The 2022 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 17-22 Hyundai Ioniq Excluding Electric or Plug-In 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1423 (Part #HBCW1423) is designed to fit the 2017-2022 Hyundai Ioniq.
The 17-22 Hyundai Ioniq Excluding Electric or Plug-In 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1423 (Part #HBCW1423) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 13520 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 2,500 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 250 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The manual does not specify the vehicle make, model, year, cab style or bed length. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle before purchasing.
Required tools: ratchet, Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, socket set (10mm, 19mm, 3/4"), tape measure, torque wrench, shears, and 4 fishwire tools (included). A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The kit includes: 1 trailer hitch, 2 mounting brackets (driver and passenger side), 6 hex bolts M12 x 1.25" x 35, 6 carriage bolts 1/2"-13 x 1.25", 6 conical-toothed washers 1/2", 6 serrated-flange nuts 1/2"-13, and 4 fishwire tools.
Yes. You must remove the rearmost lower bumper panel (10 clips) and set it aside for reinstallation. The manual notes that removing the large underbody panel may ease installation. Two electrical cables routed along the driver-side frame rail must be carefully dislodged.
The manual states that removing the large underbody panel "may ease installation" but does not explicitly require it. However, the installation does require removal and trimming of underbody material. Consult the trim diagram on page 4 for the specific areas to trim.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 for guidance specific to your vehicle.
1. Remove the rearmost lower bumper panel (10 clips). 2. Dislodge the two electrical cables on the driver-side frame rail. 3. Loosely install the driver-side mounting bracket using M12 hex bolts and conical-toothed washers; repeat on passenger side. 4. Raise the hitch into position between the side plates and secure with 1/2" carriage bolts installed from center outward and serrated-flange nuts. 5. Torque all M12 hardware to 86 ft-lbs and all 1/2" hardware to 90 ft-lbs. 6. Trim and reinstall the underbody panel.
The fishwire tool (4 included) is used to guide bolts through the vehicle frame rail. Insert the coiled end of the fishwire through the hitch mounting hole in the frame rail and out the access hole. Pass the coiled end through the spacer and thread the bolt into the coil. Kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt. Pull the fishwire, spacer and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole. This prevents loss of bolts or spacers inside the frame rail.
No. In Step 3, the driver-side and passenger-side mounting brackets are installed "loosely" using M12 hex bolts and conical-toothed washers. They are fully tightened only in Step 5 after the hitch is raised into position and secured with carriage bolts.
The 1/2" carriage bolts should be installed from the center of the vehicle outward. Use fishwires as needed to install the bolts.
The manual does not mention drilling. The installation uses existing weldnuts in the vehicle frame rail. However, the installation does require trimming of the underbody panel using the trim diagram provided on page 4.
The underbody panel must be trimmed using the trim diagram on page 4 as reference. The diagram shows trim lines at 1-1/2" from the hitch on two sides and 3-3/4" on another section. The trimmed panel is then reinstalled.
The underbody panel trimming is permanent. The bumper panel removal is not permanent—it is removed and then reinstalled after the hitch is mounted and the underbody is trimmed.
Torque all M12 hex bolts to 86 ft-lbs. Torque all 1/2" carriage bolts and serrated-flange nuts to 90 ft-lbs.
The conical-toothed washer should be oriented with the conical (pointed) side facing the vehicle frame. The diagram on page 2 shows the washer positioned between the hex bolt and the hitch side plate, with the conical teeth pointing toward the frame.
The M12 hex bolts are M12 x 1.25" x 35 (6 qty). They are torqued to 86 ft-lbs and used with conical-toothed washers to secure the mounting brackets to the vehicle frame.
The carriage bolts are 1/2"-13 x 1.25" (6 qty). They are installed from the center of the vehicle outward to secure the hitch between the mounting brackets and are torqued to 90 ft-lbs.
The conical-toothed washers (1/2", 6 qty) are used with the M12 hex bolts to secure the mounting brackets to the vehicle frame. The conical teeth grip the frame surface to prevent loosening and ensure a secure connection.
To remove debris from weldnuts in the frame, spray lubricant or compressed air into the hole. For heavy debris, use a wire brush. Take care not to damage the threads.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Never exceed the vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify the inspection interval or detailed checklist.
The manual states that periodic inspection should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure, but does not specify the inspection interval. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 for recommended maintenance intervals.
The manual does not specify a retorque interval. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 for guidance on whether the hitch should be retorqued after the first use or at specific intervals.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the instruction manual, as well as helpful videos, guides and additional resources. You can also contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634.
To register your purchase, get copies of product warranties, or provide feedback, visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys.
The installation difficulty is rated as Moderate. Installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle, and proper tools and equipment.
The manual rates the installation as Moderate difficulty but does not explicitly require professional installation. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly and using proper tools. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 if you have concerns about your ability to complete the installation.
The manual does not specify whether extra people or lifting equipment are required. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 for guidance on installation assistance and equipment needs.
Part 56484 is a custom wiring harness with powered converter manufactured by Curt. It provides electrical connections between a towing vehicle and a trailer, converting the vehicle's taillight signals to control the trailer's lights. The system includes a converter box, wiring harness with colour-coded wires (yellow for left turn, green for right turn, red for brake, brown for taillight), a 4-flat connector, and grounding hardware.
Part 56484 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years are compatible. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle before purchasing.
No. Part 56484 is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. The manual explicitly states: 'This converter system is to be used only on 12 volt negative ground systems.' It will not function on 24-volt systems or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems.
Required tools are: Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, panel trim removal tool, heat gun, cutting tool, electrical tape, and wire crimper. You may also need a drill with a 3/32-inch bit if you must create a new ground hole rather than using an existing fastener.
The kit includes: a custom wiring harness with colour-coded wires (yellow, green, red, brown, white), a black converter box, a 4-flat connector, a 4-flat dust cover, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a ground screw, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing wires, and a fuse holder with 15-amp maximum fuse rating.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery in the engine compartment on the driver side and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. The battery must remain disconnected until you reconnect it in Step 10 after all other installation steps are complete.
You must remove: all floor coverings from the rear hatch to expose the factory sound system (Step 2); two push fasteners in the hatch threshold using a panel trim removal tool (Step 3); the trunk hatch/under-seat divider by pulling straight up (Step 4); four screws (two per side) on the floor pan using a Phillips screwdriver (Step 5); and the side panels on both driver and passenger sides to access the taillight housings (Step 6).
Locate the vehicle's taillight wiring connectors (they resemble the connectors on the custom harness). Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on both the driver side (Step 6) and passenger side (Step 7).
Locate the T-end of the custom wiring harness with the green wire and route it along the back wall of the lower hatch to the passenger side of the vehicle. Secure it with zip ties as needed (Step 7). This routing protects the wire from damage and keeps it organised.
Mount the black converter box on a flat, clean surface on the driver side that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Adhere it using the provided double-sided tape or cable ties. The manual warns: 'Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.' Secure any loose wires with provided cable ties.
Locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame. If no suitable fastener exists, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it. Secure the white ground wire with its ring terminal on the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw (Step 9).
Route the 4-flat connector along the rear bumper. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Mount the 4-flat near the receiver tube. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion (Step 10).
Drilling may be required. If an existing screw or bolt is available in the vehicle frame for grounding the white ground wire, no drilling is needed. However, if no suitable fastener exists, you must drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
A 3/32-inch pilot hole is required if you must create a new grounding point. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint. Use an abrasive pad or paper to clean the surface before drilling.
The signal circuits are rated for 5.0 amps per side.
The tail and running circuits are rated for 7.5 amps total.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. The manual warns: 'Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.' Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
The wiring harness includes four colour-coded signal wires: yellow for left turn, green for right turn, red for brake, and brown for taillight. Additionally, there is a white ground wire with a ring terminal for vehicle chassis grounding.
The power wire to the vehicle battery must be 12 gauge (12 GA) or larger. Route this wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect it from sharp edges.
Route the 12 GA power wire to the vehicle battery location. Connect the black power wire to the positive (+) battery terminal using a ring terminal. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal, as this can cause a ground short, resulting in sparks and electrical shocks.
If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded to the vehicle chassis.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Consult your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for the specific lamp load rating of your vehicle.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep it fastened down and away from the battery. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically marked with red covers or a red '+' symbol), as this can cause a ground short resulting in sparks and electrical shocks. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface. This prevents damage to hidden components and personal injury.
Once the custom harness is installed, verify that it is functioning by attaching the 4-flat connector to any trailer with functioning lights. The taillights on the vehicle to be towed should function along with the taillights on the vehicle that is powering them. This confirms that all signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake, and taillight) are working correctly.
Reinstall all items removed during installation: the floor coverings, hatch threshold fasteners, trunk hatch/under-seat divider, floor pan screws, and side panels. Reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected at the beginning. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Install and maintain the 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion of the connector.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete.
The battery connection must use a 15-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete.
Use 12 gauge (12 GA) wire or larger for the power wire to the battery. Connect the black wire to the positive (+) terminal using a ring terminal.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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