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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P5,P7 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:

CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2022 - 2023 | Hyundai Kona | Excluding electric |
The 22-23 Hyundai Kona Excluding electric 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1427 (Part #HBCW1427) fits 2022-2023 Hyundai Kona models. The 2023 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 22-23 Hyundai Kona Excluding electric 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1427 (Part #HBCW1427) fits the following vehicles: 2022-2023 Hyundai Kona. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 22-23 Hyundai Kona Excluding electric 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1427 (Part #HBCW1427) is designed to fit the 2022-2023 Hyundai Kona.
The 22-23 Hyundai Kona Excluding electric 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1427 (Part #HBCW1427) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT 11529 is designed for 2018-Present Hyundai Kona SUV models. The hitch is a weight-carrying receiver hitch rated for a maximum of 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight. Always verify your vehicle's manufacturer towing capacity before towing, as you must never exceed it.
Yes, CURT 11529 fits both AWD and RWD Hyundai Kona models. However, AWD models require an additional step: the exhaust must be lowered by removing 2 rubber isolators before installation and raised back into position after torquing the hitch fasteners. RWD models do not require this exhaust work.
CURT 11529 is designed for use with ball mount #45521. Euro mount options are also available: #45571 (1 7/8" ball) or #45572 (2" ball). Consult the CURT catalog or website at www.curtmfg.com for compatibility and specifications of these ball mounts.
CURT 11529 includes: 4 bolts (7/16-14 UNC, 1-1/4", Grade 8, part 10-10281); 4 serrated flange nuts (7/16-14 UNC, Grade 8, part 20-00103); 4 pieces of 7/16" fishwire (part 7_16 FISHWIRE); and 4 spacers (part 11529-SP). All fasteners are Grade 8 and zinc-plated.
Required tools: screwdriver, 10mm socket, 11/16" socket, 6" socket extension, ratchet, torque wrench, and safety glasses. The manual notes that using proper tools will greatly improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
No. CURT 11529 is a no-drill installation. The hitch uses the fishwire method to route fasteners through existing lower holes in the outside of the frame rails, eliminating the need for drilling.
No electrical wiring is required. However, the electrical harness must be relocated from under the driver side of the bumper beam to above the bumper beam as part of Step 1 of the installation process. This is a repositioning task, not an electrical modification.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and notes that 2 people may be needed, though it does not state this is mandatory for all installations.
1. Move the electrical harness from under the driver side bumper beam to above it. Remove the underbody panel from the passenger side frame rail and save it. 2. On AWD models only, lower the exhaust by removing 2 rubber isolators. 3. Fishwire the 7/16" carriage bolts and spacers into the lower holes in the outside of the frame rails. 4. Raise the hitch into position, feeding fishwires through the hitch holes, and loosely secure with 7/16" hex flange nuts. 5. Torque the 7/16" hardware to 59 lb-ft, raise the exhaust back into place (AWD only), and reinstall the panel.
Fishwire is a method of routing fasteners through existing holes without drilling. For CURT 11529, you thread the 7/16" fishwire (included) through the lower holes in the outside of the frame rails, then feed the 7/16" carriage bolts and spacers through the fishwire to position them in the frame. This allows the hitch to be installed without creating new holes.
No. After raising the hitch into position and feeding the fishwires through the hitch holes, you should loosely secure the fasteners with the 7/16" hex flange nuts. Only after all fasteners are in place should you torque them to the final specification of 59 lb-ft.
All 7/16" hardware (bolts and hex flange nuts) must be torqued to 59 lb-ft. This torque is applied after the hitch is positioned and all fasteners are loosely secured.
CURT 11529 is rated for a maximum of 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower. Always verify your Hyundai Kona's towing limits before towing.
No. All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for information on the 18050 stabilizing straps.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. If you are hesitant to undertake the installation yourself, contact an authorized CURT installer for assistance. You can reach CURT technical support at 877-287-8634 for help or questions.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a retorque interval, but regular inspection is recommended to maintain safe operation.
Yes. CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Warranty is voided by alteration, misuse, or improper installation. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement and excludes incidental or consequential loss or damage.
CURT 11529 complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5, and SAE J684.
Yes, CURT 11529 fits 2018-Present Hyundai Kona SUV models (both AWD and RWD). Rated for 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight. Always verify your vehicle's manufacturer towing capacity.
Screwdriver, 10mm socket, 11/16" socket, 6" extension, ratchet, torque wrench, and safety glasses. No power tools are required.
No. CURT 11529 is a no-drill installation using the fishwire method to route fasteners through existing frame rail holes.
On AWD models only, the exhaust must be lowered by removing 2 rubber isolators before installation and raised back after torquing. The electrical harness must be relocated from under the driver side bumper beam to above it. RWD models do not require exhaust work.
All 7/16" fasteners (bolts and hex flange nuts) must be torqued to 59 lb-ft after the hitch is positioned and all fasteners are loosely secured.
CURT 11529 is rated for 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight, but you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No. All non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to do so voids the warranty. See www.curtmfg.com for details.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. No specific retorque interval is stated in the manual.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
CURT 56409 is a custom wiring harness with a powered converter system designed for passenger cars. It provides signal circuits (3.0 amps per side) and tail/running circuits (6.0 amps total) to enable trailer lighting or other auxiliary lighting functions. The system includes a black converter box that mounts inside the vehicle near the taillight, a power lead that connects to the vehicle battery, and wiring harnesses that connect to the vehicle's existing taillight connectors.
CURT 56409 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual shows wiring locations for passenger cars (P1–P7) and notes that battery location may differ depending on the vehicle. You should verify compatibility with your specific vehicle model before purchase. Consult the vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for confirmation.
No. The manual explicitly states that this converter system is to be used only on 12-volt negative ground systems. It is not compatible with 24-volt systems or positive ground systems.
The following tools are required: ratchet, ratchet extension, socket (1/4"), Phillips screwdriver, side cutter, wire crimper, wire stripper, panel trim removal tool, and utility knife. Proper tools will improve the quality of installation and reduce the time required.
The kit includes: a black converter box, a 12-gauge power wire with ring terminal for battery connection, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a provided screw for grounding, cable ties for securing wires, provided double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, a grommet sealant, a 4-flat dust cover, and a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse (to be installed after all other steps are complete). The kit also includes wiring harnesses with red, yellow, green, and brown wires for connection to vehicle taillight connectors.
Yes. The manual explicitly states: "Disconnect negative battery (-) cable before wiring the power wire." This is a required safety step before beginning the power wire installation. After all other installation steps are complete and the fuse is installed, you may reconnect the negative battery terminal.
The manual rates the installation difficulty as "Easy." However, the installation involves multiple steps including removing trim panels, accessing taillight connectors, routing wires through the vehicle, drilling a pilot hole for grounding, and making electrical connections. You should read all instructions thoroughly before beginning.
The installation follows these main steps: (1) Open trunk and remove floor coverings; (2) Remove rear scuff panel; (3) Remove driver-side trim panel fasteners and locate taillight connectors; (4) Insert custom wiring with red wire between separated connectors; (5) Remove grommet from taillight wiring harness; (6) Cut slit in grommet and route yellow and green wires through; (7) Locate and separate passenger-side taillight turn signal connector and insert yellow wire; (8) Repeat steps 5–7 on passenger side with green wire; (9) Locate grounding point and secure white ground wire; (10) Mount converter box and route power wire from battery. All steps must be followed to ensure proper function.
Locate the vehicle's taillight wiring connectors behind the taillight housing. The connectors will be similar to those on the custom wiring product. Carefully separate the connectors without damaging the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring end (with the appropriate wire colour: red for brake, yellow for left turn, green for right turn) between the separated connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process for both driver and passenger sides.
Route the custom wiring end with yellow and green wires out through the grommet opening and through a slit cut in the grommet from the trunk to the taillight connector. Remove the grommet from which the vehicle taillight wiring harness passes through from inside the trunk to underneath the vehicle. Cut a slit large enough to route the new custom wiring through. After routing, reseat the grommet and use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all wires. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The converter should be mounted in a location that is convenient and out of the way, as the 4-flat connector should be rolled up and stored inside the trunk when not in use.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable existing point is available, you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint.
Yes. You must remove the grommet from which the vehicle taillight wiring harness passes through from inside the trunk to underneath the vehicle, and cut a slit large enough to route the new custom wiring end through. After routing the wires, reseat the grommet and use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all wires.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. The manual states: "The battery connection must be fuse-protected, 10-amp max. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire." The fuse holder with 10-amp fuse is provided and should be installed after all other steps are complete.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail/running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
If a suitable existing grounding point is not available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint before securing the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
The wiring harness uses the following colours: Red = Brake, Yellow = Left turn, Green = Right turn, Brown = Taillight. The converter also includes a white ground wire and a black power wire. Each wire must be connected to the correct vehicle connector to ensure proper function.
Route the 12-gauge black power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Attach the ring terminal of the power wire to the positive (+) battery terminal. Install the provided fuse holder with 10-amp fuse after all other steps are complete. The negative battery cable must be disconnected before wiring the power wire and reconnected after installation is complete.
Locate a suitable grounding point on the driver side behind the side wall panel near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw. Alternatively, attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the screw provided (drill a 3/32" hole if necessary).
Key safety warnings: (1) Do not exceed product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. (2) The battery connection must be fuse-protected, 10-amp max. (3) Check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury. (4) Route the power wire to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. (5) Disconnect the negative battery cable before wiring the power wire. (6) Use a ring terminal for battery connection. (7) When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect from sharp edges.
After installation: (1) Reinstall all items removed during installation. (2) Reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected. (3) Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. (4) Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. (5) Ensure all wires are secured with cable ties and the grommet is sealed with the provided sealant.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the fuse periodically to ensure it has not blown. If the system stops functioning, verify that the fuse is intact and that all connections remain tight and free of corrosion.
The manual states that when in use, the 4-flat should be routed to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, it should be rolled up and stored in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. A 4-flat dust cover is provided to help prevent corrosion. However, the manual does not specify the exact function or what the 4-flat connector connects to.
CURT 56409 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Verify your vehicle's electrical system type and consult the vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm compatibility with your specific model.
Required tools: ratchet, ratchet extension, 1/4" socket, Phillips screwdriver, side cutter, wire crimper, wire stripper, panel trim removal tool, and utility knife.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery cable before wiring the power wire. Reconnect it after all other installation steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
Red = Brake, Yellow = Left turn, Green = Right turn, Brown = Taillight, White = Ground, Black = Power.
Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. Ensure all wires are secured and the grommet is sealed. Reinstall all removed items and reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Perform the following checks: (1) Verify that the 10-amp fuse is intact and properly installed in the fuse holder. (2) Inspect all wire connections to ensure they are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. (3) Check that the negative battery terminal is reconnected. (4) Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. (5) Test for proper function using a test light or a properly wired trailer. If the system still does not function, consult the vehicle manufacturer or a qualified technician.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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