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2018 - 2022 Ford EcoSport
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| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Universal, Potted, Powered, Protected, PWM |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2018 - 2022 | Ford EcoSport | — |
The 18-22 Ford EcoSport 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW806 (Part #HBCW806) fits 2018-2022 Ford EcoSport models. The 2022 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 18-22 Ford EcoSport 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW806 (Part #HBCW806) fits the following vehicles: 2018-2022 Ford EcoSport. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 18-22 Ford EcoSport 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW806 (Part #HBCW806) is designed to fit the 2018-2022 Ford EcoSport.
The 18-22 Ford EcoSport 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW806 (Part #HBCW806) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 12140 is designed for 2015-present Ford Edge SUVs. It is a Class II weight-carrying receiver hitch with a 3,500 lbs trailer weight capacity and 350 lbs tongue weight capacity.
You will need: 7/32" socket, 3/4" socket, 10mm socket, T20 Torx bit (for Sport models), ratchet, torque wrench, aviation shears, and safety glasses. Sport models also require a 5.5mm socket.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing frame holes and fishwiring to secure the mounting hardware.
Yes. You must trim 3/8" off the center underbody panel outer tabs and trim the removed underbody side panels as shown in the trim diagram to allow easier mounting and reinstallation.
All 1/2" fasteners must be torqued to 110 lb-ft.
The CURT 12140 is rated for a maximum of 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes. All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads voids the product warranty.
The kit includes 4 CM-SP4 spacers (.250 x 1.50 x 3.00" square hole), 4 carriage bolts (1/2-13 x 1 1/2, Grade 8), 4 hex flange nuts (HFN 1213, Grade 8), and 4 pieces of 1/2" fishwire for installation.
Professional installation takes approximately 60 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation takes approximately 90 minutes.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual recommends having assistance available, though it is not explicitly stated as mandatory.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product.
Yes. You must support and lower the exhaust by removing 2 rubber isolators mounted to the muffler. After hitch installation, you raise the exhaust back into position and reinstall the rubber isolators. If you have a Sport model, you must also remove the exhaust bezels using a 5.5mm socket and T20 Torx bit, then reinstall them after the hitch is mounted.
Underbody panels are protective covers located behind the rear wheels. You must remove 2 panels by removing 2 hex nuts with a 10mm socket and 2 screws with a 7/32" socket. After trimming them as shown in the diagram, you reinstall them using the hardware removed in step 1.
Fishwiring is a technique using 1/2" wire to thread spacers and carriage bolts into the frame mounting holes before the hitch is raised into position. This allows you to align the hitch with the mounting holes without having to hold the hardware in place manually. The fishwires are removed once the hitch is positioned and the hex flange nuts are installed.
The hitch side plates must be located between the center underbody panel tabs and the frame rails. After trimming the underbody panels and lowering the exhaust, you raise the hitch over the exhaust, thread the fishwires into the mounting holes, raise the hitch into mounting position, remove the fishwires, and install the 4 hex flange nuts.
Trim 3/8" off the center underbody panel outer tabs. The trim diagram on page 3 shows the specific areas to trim on both the center panel and the side panels to allow easier mounting and reinstallation.
Yes. Trimming the underbody panels is a permanent modification required for proper hitch installation and panel reinstallation. The trim diagram shows exactly which portions of the outer tabs must be removed.
The hitch uses 4 carriage bolts (1/2-13 x 1 1/2, Grade 8) and 4 hex flange nuts (HFN 1213, Grade 8). These are torqued to 110 lb-ft. The underbody panels are reinstalled using the original 2 hex nuts and 2 screws removed in step 1.
The carriage bolts are 1/2-13 x 1 1/2 inches, Grade 8 material. Four bolts are supplied with the kit.
The spacers are .250 x 1.50 x 3.00" square hole spacers (part number CM-SP4). Four spacers are supplied with the kit.
The CURT 12140 is designed for use with ball mount #45521. Euro mount options are available: #45571 (1 7/8" ball) and #45572 (2" ball).
On vehicles equipped with a hands-free lift gate, perform the kick motion on the left or right side of the receiver tube after installation is complete.
Yes. The washer/nut may require trimming for reinstallation of the underbody panels. Check fit before final tightening.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This should be done regularly to maintain safe operation.
The tongue weight capacity is 350 lbs. This is the maximum downward force that can be applied to the ball mount.
The trailer weight capacity is 3,500 lbs. This is the maximum weight of the trailer that can be towed. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The CURT 12140 is a weight-carrying hitch. It is designed to carry the tongue weight directly on the ball mount.
The CURT 12140 complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5 and SAE J684.
Yes. Before you begin installation, read all instructions thoroughly. This will help you understand the complete process and avoid mistakes.
The installation difficulty level is rated as Moderate. It requires careful attention to the steps, proper tools, and may benefit from having a second person to assist.
CURT Manufacturing warrants the product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace it at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration, misuse, or improper installation voids the warranty. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads also voids the warranty.
Call CURT Technical Support at 877-287-8634. You can also visit www.curtmfg.com for more information or www.hitchinfo.com for helpful towing tips.
The washer/nut may require trimming for reinstallation. Check the fit of the trimmed panels before final tightening. Refer to the trim diagram on page 3 to ensure you have trimmed the correct dimensions (3/8" off the center panel outer tabs, with the side panels trimmed as shown).
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 56436 is a powered converter harness designed for SUVs and vans. It converts the vehicle's taillight signals into a 4-flat trailer connector, allowing you to tow a trailer with integrated lights. The converter box processes the vehicle's turn signal, brake, and taillight circuits and outputs them to a standard 4-flat connector mounted near the hitch.
The CURT 56436 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not list specific vehicle makes, models or years. Contact CURT or consult your vehicle's owner's manual to confirm your vehicle has a 12-volt negative ground system before purchasing.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. Using it on any other electrical system will not function properly and may cause damage.
You will need: ratchet, cutting tool, socket extension, wire crimper, Torx bit T-25, wire stripper, small flathead screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, and flathead screwdriver. A fish wire (which can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string) is also required to route wires through blind holes.
The manual confirms the following items are provided: double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, a screw and ring terminal for the white ground wire, zip ties for securing loose wires, a 4-flat dust cover, and a fuse holder with 15-amp fuse. The manual does not specify whether the 4-flat connector itself or the converter box are included or must be purchased separately.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep this wire fastened down and away from the battery during the entire installation process. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete and you have tested the harness for proper function.
The installation difficulty is rated as Moderate. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and notes that proper tools will improve the quality of installation and reduce the time required.
Remove the taillight housing by using a pry tool to loosen it carefully (being careful not to dent or scratch the vehicle) and pull it rearward. Behind the taillight, locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors. Disconnect the housing by releasing the locking tabs. The T-connector with the yellow wire is then routed down through the bumper area using a fish wire and pulled back up to connect to the factory wiring at the taillight pocket.
Fish wire is a flexible tool used to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. It can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string. Insert the fish wire through the blind hole and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull back up. If the fish wire or harness gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around or twist the wire to loosen it. Make sure the fish wire is long enough to stick out on the other side before inserting it.
Mount the black converter box on a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Use the provided double-sided tape to adhere it. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the converter box, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw.
Route the black 12-gauge power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter box, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Do not connect the power wire to the battery until all other steps are complete and you are ready to test the harness.
Route the green wire to the passenger side, up and out of the way. Repeat the same process used for the driver-side taillight (Step 6) to route the green wire to the passenger-side taillight housing, using a fish wire to pull it through the bumper area.
Route the trailer 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and mount it near the hitch.
Drilling may be required. You must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire screw only if no suitable existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame near the converter box. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
The signal circuits (turn signals) are rated at 5.0 amps per side.
The tail and running light circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Use 12-gauge wire or larger for the black power wire routed from the vehicle battery to the converter box.
The wire colors are: Green = Right turn signal, Red = Brake, Yellow = Left turn signal, Brown = Taillight, White = Ground. These wires connect to the corresponding circuits in the vehicle's taillight harness.
The T-connector end with the yellow wire is routed down through the bumper area using a fish wire and pulled back up to the taillight pocket. Install the connector onto the factory wiring to keep it from falling down. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse.
Route the black power wire to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire screw.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Do not reinstall all items removed during installation or reconnect the negative battery terminal until you have confirmed proper function.
After confirming proper function with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer, reinstall all items removed during harness installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal, and install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent corrosion or electrical issues.
The provided 4-flat dust cover should be installed to help prevent corrosion of the 4-flat connector.
The CURT 56436 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual or contact CURT to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before installation and keep it fastened away from the battery. Reconnect only after testing the harness for proper function.
Green = Right turn, Red = Brake, Yellow = Left turn, Brown = Taillight, White = Ground.
Mount the converter box on a flat, clean surface away from spray and debris from rear wheels and road, using the provided double-sided tape. Failure to do so can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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