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2018 - 2025 Audi SQ5
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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2018 - 2025 Audi SQ5. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Audi Q5 and SQ5 (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 5,000 lbs. GTW and 750 lbs. TW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
Rain, road grime and salt can deal a vicious blow to your trailer wiring, and it takes electrical components with an extra-thick shell to stand up to the elements. The CURT multi-function electrical converter is an advanced taillight converter that offers the ultimate in vehicle compatibility and weather resistance, giving you a reliable wiring connection any season of the year. The potted design seals the internal electrical components in a watertight enclosure and is filled with a solid compound to protect against impacts, vibrations and moisture for long-lasting use, even on the exterior of the vehicle. The converter also features our advanced surface mount technology (SMT), using smaller components mounted directly to the surface of the circuit board. This produces lower resistance, reduced heat generation, longer life cycles and higher reliability. The CURT multi-function electrical converter comes with pigtail wires that are able to be spliced into two-wire, three-wire or PWM wiring system with combined stop and taillights. It converts any of these systems to a simple two-wire system, using a standard 4-way flat output, to be compatible with most trailer wiring. The converter is controlled using a microprocessor that is able to sense the current passing through it, allowing for quick reaction to dangerous conditions such as overload and short circuits. It also filters unwanted input signals to protect your wiring systems and uses a mere seven volts for low-voltage operation. The CURT multi-function taillight converter is a heavy-duty electrical converter for virtually any vehicle-trailer combination. It comes with color-coded wires and an easy-to-read wiring guide, as well as a dust cover to protect the 4-way flat connector. This package includes a powered converter wiring kit #55152 and four snap locks for faster, more secure splicing.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2018 - 2025 | Audi SQ5 | — |
The 18 - 25 Audi SQ5 Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13499 (Part #CHW-79) fits the following vehicles: 2018-2025 Audi SQ5. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 18 - 25 Audi SQ5 Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13499 (Part #CHW-79) fits 2018-2025 Audi SQ5 models. The 2025 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 18 - 25 Audi SQ5 Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13499 (Part #CHW-79) is designed to fit the 2018-2025 Audi SQ5.
The 18 - 25 Audi SQ5 Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13499 (Part #CHW-79) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The CURT 59236 is a powered taillight converter that converts your vehicle's taillight signals to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat plug to your vehicle's existing taillight wiring. The converter reads your vehicle's brake, turn, and tail light signals and outputs them through the 4-flat connector for the trailer to use.
The CURT 59236 is designed for SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and trucks with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual provides wiring location guides for three vehicle types: SUVs and vans (S), passenger cars (P), and trucks (T). You must verify your vehicle has a 12-volt negative ground system before installation. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual to confirm your electrical system type.
The CURT 59236 works with four vehicle wiring types: two-wire (combined stop and turn signal with independent tail signal), three-wire (independent stop, turn and tail signals), PWM-ST (combined stop and tail signal with independent turn signal), and PWM-STT (combined stop, turn and tail signal). You must identify your vehicle's wiring type before installation by probing the taillight connectors with a multimeter or test light while activating each light circuit. The manual provides a detailed chart on page 2 to help you determine your vehicle's wiring type.
Required tools are: test light, utility knife, electrical tape, wire crimper, paper, wire stripper, and pen. You may also need a multimeter (as an alternative to a test light) to determine your vehicle's wiring type. A drill with a 3/32" bit is needed if you must create a new grounding point, and a screwdriver is required to secure the ground wire. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
The CURT 59236 includes: a black converter box, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a 12-gauge power wire with ring terminal, snap locks for connecting input wires to vehicle harness, provided cable ties, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, a screw for the ground wire connection, a 4-flat dust cover, and a fuse holder with 15-amp maximum fuse. The manual shows a hardware photo on page 1 for reference.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. This is a required safety step. Look up the battery location in your vehicle's owner's manual. Be sure to fasten the disconnected negative wire down and away from the battery during the installation process. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete.
With the vehicle running and all lights off at the back, probe the taillight connectors (still connected to the vehicle) using a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light. Ignore any wires carrying less than two volts (multimeter) or that do not illuminate the test light bulb. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, brakes, tail) one at a time and probe the remaining wires. Match your results to the chart on page 2 titled 'Determining Vehicle Wiring Types' to identify whether your vehicle is two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, or PWM-STT. This determines which converter wires connect to which vehicle wires.
Use the snap locks provided to attach the converter's input wires to your vehicle's taillight harness wires. The connection depends on your vehicle's wiring type. For two-wire systems: green wire to right stop/turn, red wire to ground (white wire), yellow wire to left stop/turn, brown wire to tail. For three-wire: green to right turn, red to stop, yellow to left turn, brown to tail. For PWM-ST: green to right turn, red to stop/tail, yellow to left turn, brown to ground. For PWM-STT: green to right turn/stop/tail, red to ground, yellow to left turn/stop/tail, brown to ground. Refer to the Wiring Installation table on page 3.
Mount the black converter box on a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight using the provided double-sided tape. The area should be clean and suitable for adhesive mounting. Ensure the location allows easy access to the wires and does not interfere with vehicle operation or maintenance.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the converter, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. The area must be free of rust, dirt, and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw. If no suitable existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean area of the vehicle frame and use the provided screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route the 12-gauge power wire from the converter to the vehicle battery location, avoiding pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use existing grommets or add a grommet when passing the wire through sheet metal to protect it from sharp edges; alternatively, use silicone for protection. At the battery, attach the ring terminal of the black power wire to the positive (+) battery terminal using a butt connector. Install the fuse holder with a 15-amp maximum fuse after all other steps are complete. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a maximum 15-amp fuse to prevent overheating and potential fire.
Install the 15-amp fuse in the fuse holder only after all other installation steps are complete. This is the final step before testing. The fuse protects the battery connection and converter from overcurrent. Do not exceed a 15-amp fuse rating.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll up the connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties to prevent tangling and damage. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Drilling is required only if you cannot find a suitable existing grounding point (such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame) near the converter. If you must drill, create a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean area of the vehicle frame free of rust, dirt, and paint. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The modification is permanent.
The CURT 59236 has the following electrical ratings: signal circuits (left and right turn) are rated at 5.0 amps per side, and tail/running circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. The product is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only.
The power wire is 12-gauge (12 GA) or larger. This wire connects from the converter to the vehicle battery and must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The maximum fuse rating is 15 amps. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Do not use a fuse larger than 15 amps, as exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The converter has four input wires: green (right turn), red (brake), yellow (left turn), and brown (taillight). These wires connect to your vehicle's corresponding taillight signals using snap locks. The white ground wire connects to vehicle ground. The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal. The specific connections depend on your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, or PWM-STT).
Test the converter using either a test light or a trailer. With a test light: attach the ground lead to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat end, then activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time. Probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat end to confirm proper functionality. With a trailer: mate the 4-flat with the trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a trailer light function does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn vehicle functions off, and recheck with a test light. If the test light shows good functionality, the issue is with the trailer, not the converter.
Do not exceed the CURT 59236 product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. The product has signal circuit ratings of 5.0 amps per side and tail/running circuit ratings of 7.5 amps total. Exceeding these ratings can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Consult your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for your vehicle's lamp load rating.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This includes fuel lines, electrical wiring, brake lines, and other components that could be damaged if drilled through. Take time to inspect the area thoroughly before making any holes.
When passing the 12-gauge power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or apply silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. This prevents the wire insulation from being cut or abraded, which could cause a short circuit or fire hazard.
After installation, perform the following checks: (1) Test the converter using a test light or trailer to confirm all light functions work properly (left turn, right turn, brake, tail). (2) Verify that the converter box is securely mounted with double-sided tape. (3) Confirm the ground wire is securely fastened with the ring terminal and screw. (4) Check that the power wire is properly routed and secured with cable ties, avoiding pinch points and hot components. (5) Verify the 15-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder. (6) Ensure all loose wires are secured with cable ties. (7) Reinstall all items removed during installation.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the converter box mounting, ground wire connection, power wire routing, and all snap lock connections. Look for signs of corrosion, especially on the 4-flat connector. Install and maintain the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion when the connector is not in use.
Pulsing trailer lights every two seconds indicate that the lamp circuits exceed the product's ratings (5.0 amps per side for signals, 7.5 amps total for tail/running) or there is a wiring issue with the trailer. The converter's short circuit, overload, and thermal protection activate to prevent damage. Check that your vehicle's lamp load does not exceed the converter's ratings. If the vehicle lights are within rating, disconnect the trailer and inspect its wiring for faults or excessive lamp loads.
First, disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector from the vehicle. Turn off the corresponding light function on the vehicle (left turn, right turn, brake, or tail). Use a test light to probe the 4-flat receptacles to check if the converter is sending the signal. If the test light shows the signal is present, the problem is with the trailer wiring or lights, not the converter. If the test light shows no signal, recheck your vehicle wiring type identification and verify that the converter input wires are correctly connected to the vehicle taillight harness using the Wiring Installation table on page 3.
Check that the 15-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder and is not blown. Verify that the black power wire is securely connected to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal using the ring terminal and butt connector. Confirm that the white ground wire is securely fastened to a clean, rust-free grounding point on the vehicle frame using the ring terminal and screw. Ensure the negative battery terminal is reconnected. If the fuse is blown, check for a short circuit in the power wire routing or a wiring error in the converter connections.
The CURT 59236 fits SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and trucks with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. You must identify your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, or PWM-STT) using the test procedure on page 2 before purchase. Consult your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your electrical system type.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure no visible damage or loose connections. Maintain the 4-flat dust cover to prevent corrosion.
The CURT 13499 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 5,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 750 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years the 13499 is designed for. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle before purchasing.
You will need: ratchet, torque wrench, 10mm socket, 16mm socket, 17mm socket, T-20 torx bit socket, T-25 torx bit socket, 6" socket extension, and trim panel pry tool. A 5/8" open-end wrench and pry bar are also helpful for removing exhaust hangers. For a full tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
You must temporarily remove the bumper fascia and bumper beam. This requires removing multiple screws from the bumper fascia, wheel well lining, wheel well trim, trunk floor, and trunk edge trim, plus nuts and bolts securing the bumper beam to the frame. All components are reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Remove four screws from the bottom of the bumper fascia using a T-25 torx bit socket. Additionally, remove one screw from the bottom inside of each rear wheel well (two screws total) using the same T-25 torx bit socket.
Pull away the wheel well lining to reveal six screws (three on each side). Remove each screw using a T-25 torx bit socket. Then pull the wheel well trim away to reveal one additional screw per side and remove using a T-25 torx bit socket.
Remove the trunk floor and use a trim panel pry tool to remove the trunk edge trim starting from the side. Open the liftgate to reveal two screws and remove using a T-20 torx bit socket. From inside the trunk, locate two rubber plugs (one on each side) and use the trim panel pry tool to remove them to access two nuts underneath; remove each nut using a 10mm socket.
Remove the access panel on both sides of the trunk to locate two nuts (one on each side). Remove the nuts using a 10mm socket.
After removing the bumper fascia, locate eight M10 bolts on the bumper beam and remove using a 16mm socket. Remove the bumper beam and bumper beam bracket together and set aside for reinstallation.
The hitch is secured with eight M10 hex bolts (#1) and eight conical-toothed washers (#2). The washers must be oriented with the conical teeth facing the vehicle frame. The bolts are torqued to 45 ft-lbs.
Torque the M10 mounting bolts to 45 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness and prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
The conical-toothed washers must be oriented with the conical teeth facing the vehicle frame, not the hitch. This is shown in the Assembly diagram on page 2.
Reinstall the bumper fascia by following Steps 1 through 7 in reverse order. This includes reinstalling the trunk edge trim, trunk floor, liftgate screws, wheel well trim and lining screws, rubber plugs, access panel nuts, and all bumper fascia screws.
To remove debris from weldnuts, spray lubricant or compressed air into the hole. For heavy debris, use a wire brush. Take care not to damage the threads.
If exhaust hanger removal pliers are not available, use a 5/8" open-end wrench to slide up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod. Place the flat edge of a pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or hanger rod, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the rubber isolator. Using lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and rubber isolator helps with removal.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Before beginning installation, read all instructions thoroughly.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
The CURT 13499 is rated as Difficult. Installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
To get copies of product warranties, register your purchase, or provide feedback, visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys. You can also contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the instruction manual, helpful videos, guides, and more. You can also visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation for a tools reference guide.
Gross trailer weight capacity is 5,000 lbs; tongue weight capacity is 750 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes. You must temporarily remove the bumper fascia and bumper beam. Both are reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Torque the M10 mounting bolts to 45 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Perform periodic inspections to ensure all hardware remains tight.
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