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2018 - 2024 Honda Odyssey
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 525 LBS |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LBS |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S3 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2018 - 2024 | Honda Odyssey | — |
Yes, the 18-24 HONDA Odyssey 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1370 (Part #HBCW1370) is designed to fit the 2018-2024 Honda Odyssey.
The 18-24 HONDA Odyssey 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1370 (Part #HBCW1370) fits the following vehicles: 2018-2024 Honda Odyssey. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 18-24 HONDA Odyssey 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1370 (Part #HBCW1370) fits 2018-2024 Honda Odyssey models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 18-24 HONDA Odyssey 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1370 (Part #HBCW1370) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 13523 trailer hitch has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 3,500 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 525 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The manual does not specify vehicle year, make, model, or bed length compatibility. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle before purchasing.
Required tools include: 10mm socket, 19mm socket, 6" socket extension, ratchet, torque wrench, 5mm or 3/16" hex bits, Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, tape measure, tape, plastic trim tools, panel trim removal tool, exhaust removal pliers, reciprocating saw or rotary tool, and safety glasses. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The kit includes: 1 trailer hitch, 6 hex bolts (M12), and 6 conical-toothed washers (1/2"). All fasteners are new and included; factory fasteners are not reused for the hitch mounting.
Yes. Installation requires removal of the bottom appearance panel, mud flaps, bumper fascia, and rear wheel well liners. The bumper fascia must be disconnected from its wiring harness (if present) and partially trimmed. The exhaust must also be lowered by removing its rubber hangers.
No. The exhaust is lowered by removing the rubber hangers that secure it, but it is not fully removed. The hitch slides over the exhaust pipe on the passenger side. You must support the exhaust before removing it from the rubber hangers to prevent damage.
No drilling is required. The hitch bolts into existing weldnuts on the vehicle frame rails. However, trimming of the bumper fascia and bottom appearance panel is required using a reciprocating saw or rotary tool. Trim the bumper fascia 3-1/2" from the center on each side and 5-1/2" from the center vertically. Trim the bottom appearance panel 1" from the center on each side and 10" from the center lengthwise.
All M12 hex bolts must be torqued to 76 ft-lbs using a torque wrench. This applies to all six mounting bolts that secure the hitch to the vehicle frame rails.
The conical-toothed washers must be installed in the proper orientation. The manual shows the correct orientation in the assembly diagram on page 2, with the toothed side facing outward toward the hitch side plate. Improper orientation may reduce clamping force and fastener security.
No. When you first position the hitch and install the M12 hex bolts and washers in Step 8, install them loosely. Tighten all bolts to the final torque specification of 76 ft-lbs only after the hitch is fully positioned and all bolts are in place (Step 9).
1. Remove bottom appearance panel, mud flaps, and bumper fascia. 2. Remove rear wheel well liner screws. 3. Remove trunk-mounted screws if present. 4. Disconnect fascia wiring harness if present. 5. Lower the exhaust by removing rubber hangers (support it first). 6. Position the hitch and loosely install M12 bolts and washers. 7. Torque all bolts to 76 ft-lbs. 8. Trim bumper fascia and bottom appearance panel using the provided trim diagrams. 9. Reinstall all removed components.
Spray lubricant or compressed air into the weldnut holes to remove debris. For heavy debris, use a wire brush. Take care not to damage the threads during cleaning. Clean weldnuts ensure proper bolt seating and secure fastening.
Use exhaust hanger removal pliers if available. If pliers are not available, use a 5/8" open-end wrench slid up to the rubber isolator to cradle the hanger rod, then place the flat edge of a pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or rod and rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the isolator. Using lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and isolator helps removal.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Use caution when trimming underbody panels to avoid injury. Support the exhaust before removing it from the rubber hangers to prevent it from falling. Take care not to damage weldnut threads when cleaning. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
After installation, verify that all M12 hex bolts are torqued to 76 ft-lbs. Ensure all mounting hardware is tight and structural components are secure. Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components remain secure. Refer to the final installed image on page 5 to confirm proper positioning.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify the exact interval. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 for recommended inspection intervals.
The manual does not list specific vehicle models. Contact CURT at 877-287-8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment before purchasing.
You need: 10mm and 19mm sockets, 6" socket extension, ratchet, torque wrench, 5mm or 3/16" hex bits, Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, tape measure, plastic trim tools, panel removal tool, exhaust removal pliers, reciprocating saw or rotary tool, and safety glasses.
Torque all M12 hex bolts to 76 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
Gross trailer weight capacity is 3,500 lbs and tongue weight capacity is 525 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes, the Curt 56378 is designed for Honda Odyssey vehicles in the SUVs, Mini & Full-Sized Vans category. The connector installs behind the driver side rear access panel. Verify your vehicle matches the application before purchasing.
The connector is rated for Signal Circuits at 3.0 amps per side and Tail/Running Circuits at 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
You will need a flat blade screwdriver and a panel trim removal tool. The manual also references drilling a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground screw if a suitable existing screw is not available, which would require a 3/32" drill bit.
The kit includes a 10-amp fuse for the in-line fuse holder, a 10-amp mini fuse for position #8 in the rear fuse panel, two 7.5-amp fuses for positions #2 and #11, a ground screw with ring terminal, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing loose wires, and a 4-flat dust cover.
The custom wiring connector plugs into the vehicle connector located at the rear fuse panel behind the driver side rear access panel. Route the connector behind the interior panel from the rear of the vehicle to the fuse panel, then insert it fully into the vehicle connector, ensuring the locking tabs are in place.
Mount the black converter box on a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight using the provided double-sided tape. The box should be positioned conveniently for access to the in-line fuse holder where you will insert the 10-amp fuse.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Clean the area of rust, dirt and paint, then secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Drilling is required only if a suitable existing grounding point (such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame) is not available. If drilling is necessary, you will drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. The grounding point should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Install a 10-amp mini fuse in position #8, and two 7.5-amp fuses in positions #2 and #11 in the rear fuse panel. Additionally, insert a 10-amp fuse into the in-line fuse holder on the converter box. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse.
When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring connector functions properly before testing.
Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating (Signal Circuits 3.0 amps per side, Tail/Running Circuits 6.0 amps total) or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse.
Before drilling to create a grounding point, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Yes, the Curt 56378 is designed for Honda Odyssey vehicles. The connector installs behind the driver side rear access panel.
You need a flat blade screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, and a 3/32" drill bit (if drilling a ground hole). All other hardware is included.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Install a 10-amp fuse in the in-line fuse holder, a 10-amp mini fuse in position #8, and two 7.5-amp fuses in positions #2 and #11 of the rear fuse panel.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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