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2018 - 2024 Nissan Kicks
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| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 1,500 LB |
| 1773 | Rear |
| 1775 | Yes |
| Finish | Blank |
| 1769 | I |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 150 LBS |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2018 - 2024 | Nissan Kicks | — |
The 18-24 Nissan Kicks 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2023 (Part #HBCW2023) fits the following vehicles: 2018-2024 Nissan Kicks. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 18-24 Nissan Kicks 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2023 (Part #HBCW2023) fits 2018-2024 Nissan Kicks models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 18-24 Nissan Kicks 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2023 (Part #HBCW2023) is designed to fit the 2018-2024 Nissan Kicks.
The 18-24 Nissan Kicks 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2023 (Part #HBCW2023) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56227 is designed for the Nissan Leaf. It is a custom wiring harness that connects to the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors located inside the trunk behind the taillight.
The harness has two circuit ratings: Signal Circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side, and Tail/Running Circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. You must not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. This is a required safety step performed in Step 2 of the installation process.
You will need: a 10mm socket, a ratchet, a panel trim removal tool, and a flat blade screwdriver. These tools are required to remove trunk components and access the taillight connectors.
You must remove: all trunk floor coverings, the storage bag (by removing 10mm bolts from the mounting bracket), the rear scuff panel, the sound system box (by removing 10mm bolts and disconnecting its electrical connector), and the cargo tie down fastener from the passenger side trim panel.
Locate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors inside the trunk behind the taillight (on both driver and passenger sides). Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the T-connector end (yellow wire on driver side, green wire on passenger side) between the separated connectors, ensuring they are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Drilling may be required only for the ground wire installation. You should first locate an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame as a grounding point. If no suitable existing screw is available, you may drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
If an existing screw is not available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. The grounding area should be free of rust, dirt and paint before securing the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this fuse rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the double-sided tape provided. When not in use, the 4-flat connector should be rolled up and stored in a convenient, out-of-the-way location.
Route the black power wire from the vehicle's battery as shown on the included CME-PCL-INS sheet. This sheet provides specific routing instructions for your vehicle.
Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This helps organize the installation and prevents wires from becoming damaged or caught.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness will function properly.
Reinstall all items removed during installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal, and install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
You must not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for your specific tow vehicle lamp load rating.
The T-connector on the driver side has a yellow wire, and the T-connector on the passenger side has a green wire. Each is inserted between the separated taillight connectors on their respective sides.
The ground wire is white. It is secured using a ring terminal and provided screw to a suitable grounding point near the connector.
The power wire is black. It is routed from the vehicle's battery as shown on the included CME-PCL-INS sheet.
Yes, the Curt 56227 is designed specifically for the Nissan Leaf.
You need a 10mm socket, ratchet, panel trim removal tool, and flat blade screwdriver.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation.
Drilling may be required only for the ground wire if no existing screw is available; you would drill a 3/32" pilot hole.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating.
Signal Circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running Circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Test for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
The CURT 11648 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 1,500 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 150 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
CURT stands behind its products with industry-leading warranties. To get copies of the product warranty, register your purchase, or provide feedback, visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys.
The CURT 11648 mounts to vehicle frame rails. Passenger-side fastening varies depending on vehicle model—some models use existing weldnuts in the frame side, while others use existing frame rail holes. Consult the manual or contact CURT Product Support at 877.287.8634 to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
Passenger-side fastening varies by vehicle model. The hitch uses either two M12 bolts into existing weldnuts in the side of the frame, or three existing M10 bolts through the frame rail. The manual states that M12 bolts and three M10 bolts may be present on the tow loop, which is removed during installation. Retain the three M10 bolts for reinstallation if your vehicle uses them.
Required tools: ratchet, 6" socket extension, torque wrench, die grinder, sockets (10mm, 12mm, 17mm, 11/16"), drill, 1/2" drill bit, rotary tool, safety glasses, and screwdriver. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The kit includes: 2 serrate-flange nuts (7/16"), 2 conical tooth washers (9/16"), 2 hex head cap screws (M12), 2 carriage bolts (7/16"), 2 fishwires (7/16"), 2 square hole spacers (.250" x .88" x 2.25"), and 3 hex flange nuts (M10). If existing hardware is present on the vehicle, use it; otherwise use the provided M12 bolts and conical washers to fasten the hitch to the frame.
Yes. In Step 2, you remove either four M12 bolts or three M10 bolts securing the tow loop to the passenger-side frame rail. Retain the three M10 bolts for reinstallation on the hitch. Return the tow loop and M12 bolts to the vehicle owner.
Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning. The installation requires part removal and trimming of the underbody panel, hole enlargement, drilling, and fishwiring hardware. Wear safety glasses at all times. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The installation is rated as moderate difficulty. The difficulty level is based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
Yes. In Step 1, remove the fasteners securing the underbody panel and retain both the panel and fasteners for later reinstallation. The panel will be trimmed in Step 8 and reinstalled in Step 9.
Yes. In Step 2, remove either four M12 bolts or three M10 bolts securing the tow loop to the passenger-side frame rail. Retain the three M10 bolts for reinstallation on the hitch. Return the tow loop and M12 bolts to the vehicle owner.
Yes. In Step 3, if the rear-most driver-side hole is not present on your vehicle, raise the hitch into position and mark the hole to be drilled. Lower the hitch and drill the marked hole. Before drilling, make sure all existing holes are aligned. The drill bit size is 1/2".
Yes. In Step 3, enlarge the driver-side access hole to allow 7/16" hardware to pass through. A die grinder or rotary tool can be used for this task.
Yes. In Step 8, trim the underbody panel according to the trim diagram provided in the manual. The panel is then reinstalled in Step 9 using the hardware removed in Step 1.
To remove debris from weldnuts in the frame, spray lubricant or compressed air into the hole. For heavy debris, use a wire brush. Take care not to damage the threads.
Torque all 7/16" hardware to 70 ft-lbs, all M10 hardware to 48 ft-lbs, and all M12 hardware to 90 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening.
Torque all 7/16" hardware to 70 ft-lbs. This applies to the carriage bolts and serrate-flange nuts used on the driver side.
Torque all M10 hardware to 48 ft-lbs. This applies to the hex flange nuts used on the passenger side when the vehicle uses existing M10 bolts through the frame rail.
Torque all M12 hardware to 90 ft-lbs. This applies to the hex head cap screws used on the passenger side when the vehicle has existing weldnuts in the side of the frame.
The conical tooth washer is 9/16" in diameter. Two are included in the kit and are used with the M12 hex head cap screws on the passenger side.
The square hole spacer measures .250" x .88" x 2.25". Two are included in the kit and are used with the 7/16" carriage bolts to position the hitch on the driver side.
The fishwire technique is used to guide the 7/16" carriage bolt and square hole spacer through the frame rail without losing them inside. In Step 4, insert the coiled end of the fishwire through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole, pass it through the spacer, and thread the bolt into the coil. In Step 5, pull the fishwire, spacer, and bolt back through the frame and out the mounting hole.
Attach the fishwire to the carriage bolt and slide the spacer onto the fishwire. Push the bolt through the hole followed by the spacer. Pull the bolt back into position, protruding from the frame. This technique is used in Step 5 to reverse the bolt and spacer into the enlarged access hole.
The conical tooth washer should be oriented with the teeth facing inward toward the frame. The manual includes a diagram showing the correct orientation on the hitch side plate.
In Step 6, raise the hitch into position and secure the driver side first using the provided 7/16" flange nuts. Then secure the passenger side with either the two provided M12 bolts into existing weldnuts in the side of the frame, or the existing three M10 bolts through the frame rail, using the provided M10 flange nuts.
Two fasteners are used on the driver side: one 7/16" carriage bolt with a square hole spacer on the rear, and one 7/16" carriage bolt on the front. Both are secured with 7/16" serrate-flange nuts and torqued to 70 ft-lbs.
Two fasteners are used on the passenger side. If the vehicle has existing weldnuts in the side of the frame, use the two provided M12 hex head cap screws with conical tooth washers, torqued to 90 ft-lbs. If the vehicle has existing frame rail holes, use the three existing M10 bolts with the provided M10 hex flange nuts, torqued to 48 ft-lbs.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. After installation, perform periodic inspection to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The CURT 11648 has a gross trailer weight capacity of 1,500 lbs and a tongue weight capacity of 150 lbs, but your vehicle's manufacturer may specify a lower limit.
After installation, perform periodic inspection to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. To help prevent damage to the product or vehicle, refer to the specified torque specifications when securing hardware.
In Step 9, reinstall the underbody panel using the hardware removed in Step 1. The panel should be trimmed according to the trim diagram in Step 8 before reinstallation.
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