Our in-house experts typically reply within one business day.
CURT
Verify Fitment
Select your vehicle to confirm this part fits.
2019 - 2023 Jeep Cherokee
Confirmed to Fit
Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
Free Shipping!
Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
Free Shipping!
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 5,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 6,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 750 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2019 - 2023 | Jeep Cherokee | — |
Yes, the 19-23 JEEP Cherokee 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1530 (Part #HBCW1530) is designed to fit the 2019-2023 Jeep Cherokee.
The 19-23 JEEP Cherokee 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1530 (Part #HBCW1530) fits 2019-2023 Jeep Cherokee models. The 2023 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 19-23 JEEP Cherokee 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1530 (Part #HBCW1530) fits the following vehicles: 2019-2023 Jeep Cherokee. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 19-23 JEEP Cherokee 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1530 (Part #HBCW1530) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, Curt part number 13171 fits all Jeep Cherokee models from 2014 to present, including Trailhawk variants.
When used as a weight-carrying hitch, the Curt 13171 supports a maximum trailer weight of 5,000 lbs and tongue weight of 750 lbs. When used as a weight-distribution hitch, it supports a maximum trailer weight of 6,000 lbs and tongue weight of 750 lbs. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The hitch weight is 48 lbs.
You will need a ratchet, sockets in 3/4", 8mm, and 21mm sizes, a 6" socket extension, and a torque wrench. A 10mm socket is also required for Trailhawk models to remove the plastic fascia panel screws. Safety glasses should be worn at all times during installation.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing frame rail holes accessed through square rubber plugs on each side of the frame.
Temporary plastic fascia removal is required only for Trailhawk models. Remove the 4 screws from the bottom of the panel using a 10mm socket, push on the tabs to unclip, and set aside for reassembly. Non-Trailhawk Cherokee models do not require fascia removal.
Two people may be required to ease installation, though the manual does not specify whether a second person is mandatory or optional.
1. For Trailhawk models, temporarily remove the plastic fascia panel by removing 4 screws with a 10mm socket and unclipping tabs. 2. Examine vehicle frame rails and unfasten any wire present by pulling the retainer out; remove square rubber plugs on each side to expose access holes. 3. Use fishwire to route rear and side mounting hole hardware through the access holes; use reverse fishwire for remaining hardware (both sides). For Trailhawk models, use only reverse fishwire hardware and the vehicle's M14 bolts. 4. Raise the hitch from in front of the exhaust into position, being careful not to push hardware back inside the frame; loosely secure with mounting hardware to align all holes before final tightening. 5. Resecure any wire to the vehicle frame rail as needed. 6. For Trailhawk models, clip the plastic fascia panel back into place and secure with 4 screws.
Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 lb-ft. For Trailhawk models, torque all M14 hardware to 139 lb-ft.
Loosely secure the hitch with mounting hardware first to align all holes, then tighten them. This ensures proper alignment before final torquing.
Seam foam may need to be trimmed for proper mounting plate fit, but the manual does not specify the exact location or extent of trimming required.
The kit includes 6 serrated-flange nuts (1/2-13 UNC, Grade 8, YZ), 6 carriage bolts (1/2-13 UNC, 1-1/2", Grade 8, YZ), 6 pieces of 1/2" fishwire, and 6 square hole spacers (.250 x 1.00 x 3.00"). For Trailhawk models, the installation also uses the vehicle's existing M14 bolts.
Return the square rubber plugs to the vehicle owner after installation.
If wire is present on either side frame rail, unfasten it by pulling the retainer out of the frame and temporarily let it hang loose below the frame rail. After installation, resecure the wire to the vehicle frame rail as needed.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning installation. Use proper tools to improve installation quality and reduce time required.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a retorque interval or maintenance schedule beyond this periodic inspection.
Curt Manufacturing LLC warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, Curt may repair or replace it at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse of, or improper installation voids the warranty. Curt's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Yes, the Curt 13171 fits all Jeep Cherokee models from 2014 to present, including Trailhawk variants.
No drilling is required. The hitch uses existing frame rail holes accessed through square rubber plugs.
You need a ratchet, 3/4", 8mm, and 21mm sockets, a 6" socket extension, a torque wrench, and a 10mm socket for Trailhawk models. Safety glasses are required.
Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 lb-ft. For Trailhawk models, torque all M14 hardware to 139 lb-ft.
As a weight-carrying hitch: 5,000 lbs trailer weight, 750 lbs tongue weight. As a weight-distribution hitch: 6,000 lbs trailer weight, 750 lbs tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Temporary fascia removal is required only for Trailhawk models. Remove 4 screws with a 10mm socket, unclip tabs, and set aside for reassembly.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning.
Seam foam may need to be trimmed for proper mounting plate fit. Trim as necessary to allow the mounting plate to sit flush against the frame.
Use care when raising the hitch up from in front of the exhaust into position to avoid pushing hardware back inside the frame. If this occurs, use the fishwire or reverse fishwire to retrieve and reposition the hardware through the access holes.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56208 Custom Wiring Harness is designed for Jeep Cherokee SUVs. It is compatible with the S (SUV, Mini & Full-Sized Van) category vehicles.
The Curt 56208 is a custom wiring harness that provides connections for trailer lighting. It includes signal circuits rated at 3.0 amps per side and tail/running circuits rated at 6.0 amps total. The harness terminates in a 4-flat connector for trailer connection.
You will need a Phillips screwdriver, a T-15 Torx bit, and a T-27 Torx bit. A test light or properly wired trailer is also needed to test the harness after installation.
The harness includes a custom wiring harness with yellow and green wire ends, a black converter box, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a provided screw for grounding, double-sided tape for the converter box, a 4-flat dust cover, and cable ties for securing loose wires.
The manual does not explicitly state whether the battery must be disconnected before installation. However, it does specify that the battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp max fuse. Consult the included CME-PCL-INS sheet for battery connection details, or contact the manufacturer for safety guidance.
You must remove the tailgate, two cargo-tie down fasteners on each side, the storage holder on the driver side, the trunk floor cover, two Phillips screws securing the spare tire surround, T-15 Torx screws securing the cargo-tie down to the scuff panel, and the rear scuff panel. Then remove the two T-27 Torx screws securing each taillight housing.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector—either an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Yes. You must locate the grommet behind the taillight where the vehicle taillight wiring passes through, remove it, and cut a slit large enough to route the custom wiring harness through. After routing the harness, reseat the grommet using the provided sealant to seal the cut and around all wires.
The pilot hole size is 3/32". This hole is drilled only if a suitable existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame is not available for grounding the white ground wire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp max fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The custom wiring harness has a yellow wire end that connects to the driver side taillight connector and a green wire end that connects to the passenger side taillight connector. The white wire is the ground wire. The black wire connects to the vehicle battery (see the included CME-PCL-INS sheet for routing details).
Route the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire (driver side) or green wire (passenger side) out through the grommet opening and slit. Insert the harness end between the separated taillight connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat for the passenger side using the green wire end.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If none is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly before testing.
Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. The product is rated for signal circuits at 3.0 amps per side and tail/running circuits at 6.0 amps total. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for your specific tow vehicle lamp load rating.
Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Yes. When removing the taillight housing, carefully pull it rearward and take care not to damage the alignment tabs on the back. When separating the connectors from the taillight housing, take care not to damage the locking tabs.
Yes, the Curt 56208 is designed for Jeep Cherokee SUVs.
You need a Phillips screwdriver, T-15 Torx bit, and T-27 Torx bit. A test light or properly wired trailer is needed to test after installation.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection if no existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame. You would drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Cutting the grommet behind the taillight is required.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp max fuse. Exceeding this can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
On Sale Today
Original price was $942.60. Current price is $700.32.You save $242.28 (26%)
Free Shipping
Ships free on all orders
Authorized Dealer
Quick Ship
In stock and ready to ship — order now!
FREE ShippingFREE SHIPPING
Estimated delivery Thu, Aug 13 - Sun, Aug 16
Order before 2 PM EST Monday–Friday for same-day processing
Guaranteed safe & secure checkout
No reviews have been added for this product.