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1993 - 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LBS |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 7,500 LBS |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 7,500 LBS |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 750 LBS |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | Blank |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1993 - 1998 | Jeep Grand Cherokee | — |
Yes, the 93-98 JEEP Grand Cherokee 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1559 (Part #HBCW1559) is designed to fit the 1993-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
The 93-98 JEEP Grand Cherokee 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1559 (Part #HBCW1559) fits the following vehicles: 1993-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 93-98 JEEP Grand Cherokee 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1559 (Part #HBCW1559) fits 1993-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee models. The 1998 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 93-98 JEEP Grand Cherokee 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1559 (Part #HBCW1559) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The manual does not specify vehicle makes, models, or model years. Contact CURT at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your vehicle.
Gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity is 7,500 lbs with a tongue weight (TW) of 750 lbs. Weight distribution capacity is 7,500 lbs with a weight distribution tongue weight (WDTW) of 750 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Required tools: 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 13mm socket, 1/2" socket, 3/4" socket, 21mm socket, ratchet, torque wrench, T-30 Torx bit, and flathead screwdriver. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
Yes, the installation difficulty level is rated as Difficult. Installation time and effort vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and proper tools and equipment. The installation requires part removal including bumper cover, wheel well liners, electrical connectors, taillight cover, rear bumper beam, and exhaust hangers.
Torque 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs. Torque 5/16" hardware to 178 in-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening during installation.
Yes. The bumper cover must be removed to access the frame rails and install the hitch side plates. After installation and torquing all hardware, reinstall the bumper cover by reversing the removal steps.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. After installation, perform periodic inspection of the trailer hitch to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. Refer to specified torque specifications (1/2" hardware at 110 ft-lbs, 5/16" hardware at 178 in-lbs) when checking hardware.
The kit includes: 1 trailer hitch, 6 carriage bolts (1/2"), 6 serrated-flange nuts (1/2"), 4 fishwires (1/2"), 2 carriage bolts (5/16"), and 2 flange nuts (5/16"). All fasteners needed for installation are supplied.
Installation requires removal of: bumper cover bolts (4 from bottom), wheel well liner bolts (4 from rear of each liner), wheel trim, electrical connectors at rear of tires, taillight cover, rear bumper beam (2 outside bolts and 1 bottom bolt from each frame rail), and exhaust hangers (2 bolts on L models from outside, 1 bolt on Non-L models from bottom of frame rail). All removed parts are reinstalled after hitch installation.
First, remove four bolts from the bottom of the bumper cover using a 10mm socket. Remove four bolts from the rear of each wheel well liner using an 8mm socket. Gently pull the wheel trim away from the vehicle starting at the bottom and working up, squeezing white clips behind the wheel liner if needed. Remove the newly exposed bolt using a 10mm socket on both sides. Disconnect electrical connectors at the rear of each tire by pulling the tab toward the front and pushing down. Remove the taillight cover by pulling straight rearward. Finally, gently pull the bumper cover away from the vehicle starting at the wheel well and working toward the rear.
L models and Non-L models differ in two ways: (1) Exhaust hanger removal—L models require removing two bolts from each exhaust hanger on the outside of the vehicle; Non-L models require removing one bolt from each exhaust hanger on the bottom of the frame rail. (2) Hitch side plate hole selection—L models use the set of holes farthest from the main body; Non-L models use the set of holes closest to the main body. Both use 13mm sockets for exhaust hangers.
Locate the electrical connectors on each side of the vehicle at the rear of the tire behind the bumper cover. Disconnect by pulling the tab on the vehicle side of the connector toward the front of the vehicle, then push it down. The connectors are disconnected to allow removal of the bumper cover and rear bumper beam.
Removing the taillight is optional but may ease installation on some models. To remove, use a T-30 Torx bit to remove the bolt securing it in place and gently pull the light rearward. Set it aside for reinstallation. At minimum, the taillight cover must be removed by pulling straight rearward.
Remove the rear bumper beam by removing two bolts from the outside and one bolt from the bottom of each frame rail using a 21mm socket. Return the bumper beam and fasteners to the vehicle owner after installation is complete.
Insert the hitch side plates into the end of the frame rails and loosely secure with the supplied 1/2" carriage bolts and serrated-flange nuts by reaching into the end of the frame rail to install the bottom bolts. Use fishwires for the side bolts if required. For L models, use the set of holes farthest from the main body. For Non-L models, use the set of holes closest to the main body. Insert 5/16" carriage bolts into the smaller slots on the bottom of the side plates and reinstall the exhaust using 5/16" serrated-flange nuts.
Fishwires are supplied fastening aids (4 included, 1/2" size). They are used to help install the side bolts of the hitch side plates when reaching into the end of the frame rail is difficult. The manual states to use fishwires "if required," meaning they are optional depending on your vehicle's frame rail configuration and your ability to access the bolts.
The manual instructs to loosely secure all hitch side plate bolts first (Step 9), then torque all hardware in Step 10. Torque 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs and 5/16" hardware to 178 in-lbs. After torquing, reinstall the bumper cover by reversing the removal steps.
After torquing all hitch hardware, reinstall the bumper cover by reversing Steps 1-7 in reverse order. This means: reconnect electrical connectors, reinstall the taillight cover and taillight (if removed), reinstall the rear bumper beam with 21mm bolts, reinstall exhaust hangers with 13mm bolts, reinstall wheel trim, reinstall wheel well liner bolts with 8mm socket, and reinstall bumper cover bottom bolts with 10mm socket.
Yes. When not in use, the hitch can be hidden behind the factory bumper cover.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the instruction manual, helpful videos, guides, and more. For product support, call 877.287.8634. For towing safety information, visit curtmfg.com/understanding-towing. For a tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
To register your purchase, get copies of product warranties, or provide feedback, visit warranty.curtmfg.com/surveys. CURT stands behind its products with industry-leading warranties.
The Curt 56473 is a custom wiring harness for SUVs and vans that provides trailer lighting connections. It integrates with the vehicle's factory taillight wiring to supply power for trailer signal circuits (3.0 amps per side), tail/running circuits (6.0 amps total), and brake signals. The harness includes a powered converter module that connects to the vehicle battery and outputs a 4-flat connector for trailer use.
The Curt 56473 is designed for SUVs and vans. The manual does not specify which models, years, or configurations are compatible. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle before purchasing.
Yes. The powered converter lead instruction sheet explicitly states: 'This converter system is to be used only on 12 volt negative ground systems.' If your vehicle uses a different electrical system, this product is not compatible.
The following tools are required: ratchet, Torx bit T-27, socket extension, and panel trim removal tool. A fishwire (which can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string) is also needed to route the harness through blind holes. A drill with a 3/32" bit may be needed if a grounding point must be created.
The manual shows a hardware photo but does not itemize all included components. Based on the instructions, the kit includes: custom wiring harness with green and yellow wire housings, white ground wire with ring terminal, black power wire, provided ground screw, cable ties, 4-flat dust cover, and double-sided tape for converter mounting. A fuse holder with 10-amp fuse is also mentioned. Refer to the product packaging or contact Curt Manufacturing for a complete parts list.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. The negative battery must remain disconnected until after all wiring steps are complete and you are ready to test the system.
Yes. Steps 2 and 3 require removal of both taillight trim panels and taillights. Use a panel trim removal tool to remove the push fastener and taillight cover. Then use a T-27 Torx bit to remove the screw securing the taillight. Remove the taillight at a 45° angle from the vehicle, as alignment tabs only allow removal in this direction. Locate and separate the taillight wiring connectors, taking care not to damage the locking tabs.
A fishwire is a tool used to push or pull electrical wire through a blind hole. It can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string. To use it: (1) ensure the fishwire is long enough to stick out on the other side of the hole, (2) insert it through the blind hole and locate it on the other side, (3) use tape to secure the harness to the fishwire, and (4) pull the harness back up. If the harness gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. The manual specifies routing the fishwire down between the bumper cover in the further rear opening and the vehicle body.
After removing the taillights (Steps 2-3), locate the vehicle's factory taillight wiring connectors. The connectors will be similar to those on the custom wiring product. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Then, starting on the passenger side, locate the housing with the green wire on the custom harness. Use a fishwire to pull the harness up from under the vehicle bumper to the taillight cavity. Attach the custom wiring harness to the vehicle factory wiring and secure to the taillight. Set the taillight inside the cavity but do not fully install at this time. Repeat on the driver side with the yellow wire housing.
Route the housing with the yellow wire above the bumper mount and along the bumper to the driver side. Zip tie as needed along the bumper. Route above the driver-side bumper mount. Then repeat the fishwire process (Step 5) to pull this housing up to the taillight cavity on the driver side.
Locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the frame of the vehicle. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint. Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw.
Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the provided 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet.' The wire must be 12 GA or larger. Route it to the positive battery terminal using a ring terminal connection. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Do not connect the fuse until all other steps are complete.
Mount the converter using the provided double-sided tape. The manual does not specify a particular location on the vehicle. Refer to the 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet' diagram or contact Curt Manufacturing for the recommended mounting location for your specific vehicle.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable grounding point (existing screw or bolt on the vehicle frame) is not available, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire connection. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area must be cleaned of rust, dirt, and paint using an abrasive pad or paper.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Green wire: Right turn signal. Yellow wire: Left turn signal. Red wire: Brake signal. Brown wire: Taillight/running light. These colors are used in the custom wiring harness housings and correspond to the standard trailer lighting functions.
The 4-flat connector is the trailer connection point. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk to the trailer. Be sure to stay clear of the trunk's latching mechanism. When not in use, roll up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. A 4-flat dust cover is provided to help prevent corrosion when the connector is not in use.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. The fuse holder with a 10-amp fuse must be installed after all other installation steps are complete. Do not exceed this rating, as exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded. This is a specific requirement for two-wire trailer systems and differs from standard four-wire installations.
Before drilling or routing wires, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When routing the black power wire to the battery, take care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the power wire. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using provided cable ties. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. The manual specifies that all steps must be followed to ensure the product will function properly. After testing, reinstall all items removed during installation and reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion when the connector is not in use. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
The Curt 56473 is designed for SUVs and vans, but the manual does not list specific models or years. Confirm compatibility with your vehicle before purchasing by contacting Curt Manufacturing or checking a fitment database.
Yes, if your vehicle has a 12-volt negative ground electrical system. The converter is designed only for this type of system. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your electrical system type.
You will need a ratchet, T-27 Torx bit, socket extension, panel trim removal tool, and a fishwire (which can be made from wire, rope, or string). A drill with a 3/32" bit may be needed if you must create a grounding point.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep it disconnected until all wiring steps are complete and you are ready to test the system.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. Do not exceed this rating, as it can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. Clean the area of rust, dirt, and paint using an abrasive pad or paper.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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