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2021 - 2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee L
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| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 600 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 6,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 7,500 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 750 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2021 - 2024 | Jeep Grand Cherokee L | — |
The 21-24 JEEP Grand Cherokee L 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1561 (Part #HBCW1561) fits the following vehicles: 2021-2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee L. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 21-24 JEEP Grand Cherokee L 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1561 (Part #HBCW1561) is designed to fit the 2021-2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee L.
The 21-24 JEEP Grand Cherokee L 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1561 (Part #HBCW1561) fits 2021-2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee L models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 21-24 JEEP Grand Cherokee L 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1561 (Part #HBCW1561) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The CURT 13182 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 6,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 600 lbs for conventional towing. For weight distribution towing, the capacity is 7,500 lbs GTW with a weight distribution tongue weight (WDTW) of 750 lbs.
No. The CURT 13182 uses existing vehicle fasteners and weldnuts. No drilling is required.
Yes, the CURT 13182 is compatible with diesel vehicles. On diesel models, the DEF (diesel exhaust fluid) tank must be lowered during installation to access the passenger-side bolts. The DEF tank is then reinstalled and torqued after the hitch is mounted.
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 13mm socket, 21mm socket, utility knife, and safety glasses. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The CURT 13182 uses existing vehicle hardware. Four M14 bolts are retained from the vehicle's existing fasteners and reused to mount the hitch. Any additional bolts removed are returned to the vehicle owner.
No. Do not remove the DEF tank filler pipe. The tank should be free to rotate slightly downward on the passenger side to access the bolts and weldnuts, but the filler pipe must remain attached.
The DEF tank may weigh as much as 80 lbs. It is highly recommended that the tank is well supported before removing its fasteners to prevent damage and ensure safety during the installation process.
On diesel models: (1) Lower the DEF tank by unclipping the electrical connection and removing the two rear stud posts and two forward hex bolts using a 13mm socket. (2) Remove the existing M14 bolts from the frame (four or six depending on vehicle model) and retain four for hitch installation. Remove any factory tow loop and trim excess caulk if needed. (3) Raise the hitch into position and reinstall the four M14 bolts, tightening to 126 ft-lbs. (4) Reinstall the DEF tank, torquing studs to 21 lb-ft and hex bolts to 24 lb-ft. On non-diesel models, skip the DEF tank steps.
There will be either four or six M14 bolts depending on the vehicle model. You will retain four bolts for hitch installation and return any remaining bolts to the vehicle owner.
If a factory tow loop is present on your vehicle, you will need to remove it prior to hitch installation.
Some trimming of excess caulk on the vehicle frame rails may be required if it interferes with the hitch installation. Use a utility knife to trim as needed.
All M14 hitch mounting bolts must be tightened to 126 ft-lbs.
On diesel models, torque the DEF tank studs to 21 lb-ft and the DEF tank hex bolts to 24 lb-ft.
To remove debris from weldnuts in the frame, spray lubricant or compressed air into the hole. For heavy debris, use a wire brush. Take care not to damage the threads.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Never exceed the vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The DEF tank on diesel models must be well supported before removing fasteners as it may weigh up to 80 lbs.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
The CURT 13182 is rated as Easy difficulty level. However, on diesel models, the DEF tank must be lowered and well supported (it may weigh up to 80 lbs), so assistance or proper equipment may be helpful.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 56426 is a powered converter wiring harness designed for SUVs and vans. It converts factory taillight signals into a 4-flat trailer connector, allowing you to tow a trailer with standard lighting. The system uses a converter box that processes the vehicle's existing taillight signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and tail/running lights) and outputs them to a 4-flat connector for the trailer.
The CURT 56426 is designed for SUVs and vans using wiring locations S1 and S2 (behind driver and passenger side taillights). It requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm it has a 12-volt negative ground system. For specific vehicle model compatibility, contact CURT or consult a fitment database, as the manual does not list individual vehicle years and models.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. If your vehicle has a positive ground system, this product is not compatible. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your electrical system type.
You will need: panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, cutting tool, wire stripper, and fish wire. These are standard electrical and trim tools. The manual notes that proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required. Some steps may also require a drill with a 3/32" bit if you need to create a grounding point on the vehicle frame.
The kit includes: custom wiring harness with yellow and green wire ends, black converter box, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing wires, white ground wire with ring terminal, ground screw, 4-flat dust cover, and a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse. The fuse should be installed after all other installation steps are complete.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Be sure to fasten this wire down and away from the battery during the installation process. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete and before testing the system.
Open the vehicle hatch and use the panel trim removal tool to remove the push fasteners securing the taillight in place. Carefully pull the taillight straight back from the vehicle. Separate all three connectors, taking care not to damage the locking tabs on the factory wiring. Repeat this process on both the driver and passenger sides.
The fish wire is used to route the custom wiring harness down between the vehicle body and the bumper cover. You secure the custom wiring harness end to the fish wire and pull the harness up through the opening. This allows you to run the wiring without removing the bumper. You may need to flex the bumper cover slightly to get the harness connectors through the opening.
Insert the custom wiring harness end (yellow wire for driver side, green wire for passenger side) fully into the factory wiring connector. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with the locking tabs in place. The locking tabs secure the connection and prevent accidental disconnection.
Locate a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Mount the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire. The box must be positioned where it will not be exposed to water spray or road debris.
Locate a grounding point near the converter box, such as an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it if necessary. Secure the white ground wire with its ring terminal to the existing fastener, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole and use the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage.
Route the black 12-gauge power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter box, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. The power wire must be connected to the positive battery terminal through a fuse holder with a 10-amp fuse (install the fuse after all other steps are complete).
Use 12-gauge wire or larger for the power connection from the vehicle battery to the converter box. The manual specifies "12 GA wire or larger" on the powered converter lead instruction sheet.
The wiring harness uses the following color scheme: Yellow = Left turn signal, Green = Right turn signal, Red = Brake signal, Brown = Tail/Running lights. The custom harness ends are color-coded: yellow for the driver side and green for the passenger side. The converter box outputs these signals to the 4-flat trailer connector.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Signal circuits (left and right turn signals) are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running light circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the product rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When routing the power wire, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone when passing the power wire through sheet metal to protect it from sharp edges. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Mount the converter box in a protected area away from wheel spray and debris to prevent overheating and fire.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This confirms that all signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake, and tail/running lights) are working correctly before using the system.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the converter box mounting to confirm the double-sided tape is still secure. Verify that cable ties are holding wires in place and that no wires have shifted or become pinched. If you notice any damage or loose connections, address them immediately to prevent electrical failure or fire hazard.
CURT Group stands behind their products with industry-leading warranties. To register your purchase and access warranty information, visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys. Warranty may be voided if the product rating is exceeded, if the battery connection fuse exceeds 10 amps, or if the converter box is not mounted in a protected area away from wheel spray and debris.
The CURT 56426 is designed for SUVs and vans with factory taillights at locations S1 and S2 (behind driver and passenger side taillights). It requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm compatibility, or contact CURT for specific vehicle model fitment.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete. This is a required safety step.
Drilling is not required if you can locate an existing screw or bolt on the vehicle frame to ground the converter box. If no suitable grounding point exists, you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating, as it can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Mount the converter box in a flat, clean, protected location away from wheel spray and debris. Use the provided double-sided tape. Failure to mount in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
First, verify that the negative battery terminal is reconnected and the 10-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder. Check that all three factory taillight connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place on both the driver and passenger sides. Verify that the custom wiring harness ends (yellow and green) are fully inserted into the factory connectors. Test with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer to confirm all signals are present. If signals are still absent, check that the converter box is properly mounted and the white ground wire is securely attached to a clean metal grounding point on the vehicle frame.
Check that all three factory taillight connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Verify that the custom wiring harness ends are fully seated in the factory connectors—a partially inserted connector will cause some signals to work and others to fail. Inspect all wire connections for damage or loose crimps. If only one side (driver or passenger) is not working, check that the fish wire routing was successful and that the harness end was pulled completely through the opening between the vehicle body and bumper cover. You may need to flex the bumper cover to ensure the connectors passed through fully.
Stop using the system immediately. Overheating can cause product failure and potential fire. Check that the converter box is mounted in a protected location away from wheel spray and debris as required in Step 5. If the box is mounted in an exposed location, remount it in a clean, protected area using new double-sided tape. Verify that the electrical load is not exceeding the product rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits) or the tow vehicle lamp load rating. Ensure the 10-amp fuse is installed and has not blown. If overheating persists, the product may be defective and should be replaced.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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