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2019 - 2023 Lincoln Nautilus
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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 5-flat wiring kit (with 4-way to 5-way adapter for surge brakes) engineered for the 2019 - 2023 Lincoln Nautilus. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Ford Edge, Lincoln MKX and Lincoln Nautilus (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 4,500 lbs. GTW and 675 lbs. TW. It is also compatible with a weight distribution hitch for level towing and a rating of 4,500 lbs. WD and 675 lbs. WDTW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Lincoln Nautilus (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2019 - 2023 | Lincoln Nautilus | — |
The 19 - 23 Lincoln Nautilus Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13452 (Part #5W-CHW-2209) fits 2019-2023 Lincoln Nautilus models. The 2023 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 19 - 23 Lincoln Nautilus Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13452 (Part #5W-CHW-2209) is designed to fit the 2019-2023 Lincoln Nautilus.
The 19 - 23 Lincoln Nautilus Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13452 (Part #5W-CHW-2209) fits the following vehicles: 2019-2023 Lincoln Nautilus. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 19 - 23 Lincoln Nautilus Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13452 (Part #5W-CHW-2209) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 13452 is designed for 2015-2020 Ford Edge, Lincoln MKX, and Lincoln Nautilus models. The hitch is a weight-carrying receiver hitch with a maximum trailer weight capacity of 4500 lbs and tongue weight capacity of 675 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch, or 4500 lbs trailer weight and 675 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight distribution hitch. Always verify your vehicle's manufacturer towing capacity before towing, as you must never exceed it.
The hitch weight is 45 lbs.
CURT 13452 has a maximum trailer weight capacity of 4500 lbs and tongue weight capacity of 675 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch. When used as a weight distribution hitch, the capacity is also 4500 lbs trailer weight and 675 lbs tongue weight. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than the hitch capacity.
Required tools are: safety glasses, ratchet, 6-inch socket extension, 5mm socket, 10mm socket, 7/16-inch socket, T20 Torx bit socket, screwdriver, die grinder, and torque wrench. Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
No, drilling is not required. The installation uses existing frame holes and does not require any new holes to be drilled.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required.
Professional installation time is approximately 90 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation time is approximately 37 minutes. Actual time may vary depending on experience and familiarity with the vehicle.
The kit includes: 8 carriage bolts (7/16-14 UNC, 1-3/4 inch, Grade 8, yellow zinc, part 10-10314); 6 serrated flange nuts (7/16-14 UNC, Grade 8, yellow zinc, part 20-00103); 2 hex nuts (7/16-14 UNC, Grade 8, yellow zinc, part 20-00147); 2 lock washers (7/16 inch, yellow zinc, part 30-00184); 8 square hole spacers (0.250 x 1.00 x 2.50 inch, part CM-SP11); and 8 pieces of 7/16-inch fishwire (part 7_16 FISHWIRE).
Installation follows this sequence: (1) Remove bottom side plastic panel by removing 2 bolts on fascia and 2 flange nuts under the car by the muffler on each side; (2) For models with heat shield, remove center plastic panel with heat shields by removing 6 bolts and 1 flange nut; (3) For Lincoln models, remove bumper fascia by removing 7 push fasteners in wheel well and 1 bolt on each side; (4) For Lincoln models, disconnect electrical connectors from fascia; (5) For Ford models, lower muffler by removing exhaust hanger rod from rubber isolator on both sides and support with stand; (6) Use die grinder to cut off stud above center of muffler; (7) Feed carriage bolts and spacers through 4 large frame holes using fishwire; (8) Feed fishwires through 4 holes in hitch; (9) Raise hitch into position by sliding over passenger side exhaust; (10) Pull fishwires for 2 side plate bolts to hold hitch in place; (11) Pull fishwires for 2 bottom plate bolts; (12) Remove fishwires and loosely install 3 flanged hex nuts and 1 lock washer and hex nut on each side; (13) Torque all 7/16-inch fasteners to 59 lb-ft; (14) Reinstall all panels, fascia, wheel wells, muffler, and reconnect electrical connectors.
The manual instructs to use a die grinder to cut off the stud above the center of the muffler in Step 6, but does not specify whether this is a permanent modification or temporary removal. Contact CURT Technical Support at 877-287-8634 for clarification on whether the stud can be reinstalled or if this is a permanent alteration.
All 7/16-inch fasteners must be torqued to 59 lb-ft. This is applied in Step 13 after all bolts and nuts are loosely installed. Lock washers and hex nuts should be placed on the bolt closest to the gusset on the hitch.
Fishwire is used to feed carriage bolts and spacers through the 4 large holes in the frame (Step 7) and then through the 4 holes in the hitch (Step 8). The fishwires are then pulled to guide the bolts into position for the side plate bolts (Step 10) and bottom plate bolts (Step 11) before being removed and replaced with nuts and washers (Step 12). Eight pieces of 7/16-inch fishwire are included in the kit.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected. However, for Lincoln models, Step 4 requires disconnecting electrical connectors attached to the fascia and vehicle. Contact CURT Technical Support at 877-287-8634 if you have concerns about electrical safety during installation.
For Ford models, the exhaust hanger rod must be removed from the rubber isolator on both sides to lower the muffler. This is necessary to provide clearance for raising the hitch into position. The muffler must be supported with a stand to prevent damage. The muffler is then reinstalled in Step 14.
Bumper fascia removal is recommended for easier installation on Lincoln models. The removal process involves removing 7 push fasteners in the wheel well and 1 bolt on each side, then gently pulling the wheel well trim. The fascia is then disconnected from electrical connectors in the trunk. All components are reinstalled in Step 14.
The hitch is raised into position by sliding it over the passenger side exhaust first (Step 9). The fishwires for the 2 side plate bolts on each side are then pulled to hold the hitch in place (Step 10), followed by pulling the fishwires for the 2 bottom plate bolts on each side (Step 11).
On each side of the hitch, 3 flanged hex nuts (part 20-00103) and 1 lock washer (part 30-00184) and 1 hex nut (part 20-00147) are installed. The lock washer and hex nut should be placed on the bolt closest to the gusset on the hitch. All fasteners are torqued to 59 lb-ft.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a retorque interval, but recommends regular inspection as part of vehicle maintenance.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. When lowering the muffler on Ford models, a stand must be used to support and prevent damage. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse of, or improper installation of this product voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and specifically excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
CURT 13452 complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5 and SAE J684.
Yes, CURT 13452 is designed for 2015-2020 Ford Edge, Lincoln MKX, and Lincoln Nautilus. Maximum capacity is 4500 lbs trailer weight and 675 lbs tongue weight, but never exceed your vehicle's manufacturer towing capacity.
You need: safety glasses, ratchet, 6-inch socket extension, 5mm/10mm/7/16-inch sockets, T20 Torx bit socket, screwdriver, die grinder, and torque wrench. No drilling is required.
Professional installation takes approximately 90 minutes; DIY installation approximately 37 minutes. Two people may be required to ease installation.
All 7/16-inch fasteners must be torqued to 59 lb-ft after loose installation is complete.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and structural components are sound. No specific retorque interval is stated in the manual.
The Curt 56446 is a custom wiring harness with a powered converter system designed for SUVs and vans. It provides signal circuits (6.0 amps per side) and tail/running circuits (3.0 amps total) to connect your vehicle's lighting system to a trailer. The system includes a converter box that converts the vehicle's factory taillight signals for use with a 4-flat trailer connector.
The Curt 56446 is designed for SUVs and vans. The system is compatible only with 12 volt negative ground systems. For specific vehicle model and year compatibility, contact Curt Manufacturing or consult your vehicle's owner's manual to confirm your vehicle has a 12 volt negative ground electrical system.
Required tools are: ratchet, T-20 Torx bit, socket extension, cutting tool, fishwire (or stiff wire, rope or string), wire crimper, electrical tape, wire stripper, and flathead screwdriver. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
The manual shows a hardware photo but does not itemize individual components. The product includes: a converter box, a 4-flat connector, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a black power wire, cable ties, a 4-flat dust cover, and a screw for ground wire installation. Refer to the product packaging or contact Curt Manufacturing for a complete parts list.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle's battery in the engine compartment on the driver side and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. The battery must remain disconnected until Step 7, when you reconnect it after all other wiring is complete and before testing.
Open the rear hatch. Using a small screwdriver, remove the fastener cover. Using a T-20 Torx bit, remove the fastener holding the taillight. Remove the taillight by pulling it straight rearward and then outward to the side of the vehicle. Locate the vehicle taillight wiring connectors and separate them from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle.
Fishwiring is a method to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. Insert a stiff wire, rope, string, or cut-up wire hanger (the 'fishwire') through the blind hole and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fishwire and pull back up. If the fishwire gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. Make sure the fishwire is long enough to stick out on the other side before starting.
On the driver side, route the fishwire down between the body and the bumper cover. From under the vehicle, locate and attach the fishwire to the housing with the yellow wire. Pull the wire back up and attach to the factory harness. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Route the green wire along the backside of the bumper cover. Use cable ties to secure any loose wire as needed.
On the passenger side, route the fishwire down between the body and the bumper cover. From under the vehicle, locate and attach the fishwire to the housing with the yellow wire. Pull the wire back up and attach to the factory harness. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the yellow wire and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The area should be clean and suitable for tape adhesion.
Not necessarily. Locate a suitable grounding point near the converter box connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground wire screw. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw. Attach the ring terminal to a suitable grounding point near the converter box connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole if necessary. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint.
Use 12 GA (12 gauge) wire or larger to route from the vehicle battery to the converter system. Route the 12 GA wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The black power wire connects to the positive (+) battery terminal. Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the provided Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection.
The wire colors and their functions are: Green = Right turn, Red = Brake, Yellow = Left turn, Brown = Taillight. These wires connect the factory taillight signals to the converter system for trailer lighting control.
The signal circuits are rated for 6.0 amps per side. Do not exceed this rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
The tail and running circuits are rated for 3.0 amps total. Do not exceed this rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. This prevents damage to the wire insulation and potential electrical hazards.
Use the provided cable ties to secure any loose wire as needed. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using cable ties provided. This prevents wires from moving, rubbing, or becoming pinched during vehicle operation.
Route the 4-flat to the trailer hitch and mount in an easy-to-access location. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Once the 12 volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This confirms all connections are correct and the system is operating properly before final reassembly.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevents electrical failures.
No. The converter system is to be used only on 12 volt negative ground systems. It is not compatible with 24 volt systems or positive ground systems.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This includes checking for fuel lines, brake lines, electrical wiring, and other components that could be damaged by drilling.
After disconnecting the negative battery terminal, fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation process. This prevents accidental reconnection and electrical hazards during installation.
After completing all wiring steps and testing the system with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer, reinstall all items removed during installation. If the negative battery terminal was disconnected at the beginning, reconnect it. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
The Curt 56446 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12 volt negative ground electrical systems. Confirm your vehicle meets these requirements before purchasing.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep it disconnected until after all wiring is complete and tested.
Drilling is only required if no suitable existing screw is available for the ground wire. If needed, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
Use a 15-amp maximum fuse for the battery connection. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete.
Use 12 GA (12 gauge) wire or larger for the power wire from the battery to the converter system.
Periodically inspect all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections.
If the fishwire gets hung up on something during routing, you may have to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it from what it's hung up on. Ensure the fishwire is long enough to stick out on the other side before starting, and use tape to secure the harness to the fishwire before pulling.
When removing the taillight connectors, take care not to damage the locking tabs. If connectors are difficult to separate, gently wiggle them while pulling to avoid breaking the tabs. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place when reconnecting to the factory harness.
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