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2024 - 2026 Lincoln Nautilus
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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 5-flat wiring kit (with 4-way to 5-way adapter for surge brakes) engineered for the 2024 - 2026 Lincoln Nautilus. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Lincoln Nautilus (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 3,500 lbs. GTW and 350 lbs. TW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Lincoln Nautilus (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2024 - 2026 | Lincoln Nautilus | — |
The CURT 13613 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 3,500 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 350 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Required tools are: ratchet, tape measure, torque wrench, masking tape, 7mm socket, 10mm socket, 11/16" socket, reciprocating saw, tin snips, exhaust stand, exhaust isolator removal tool, and 7/16" fishwire (8 qty included). A 5/8" open end wrench and pry bar are also needed for rubber isolator removal if an exhaust hanger removal tool is not available. For a full tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
Yes. The kit includes 8 carriage bolts (7/16"-14 x 1-3/4"), 8 serrated-flange nuts (7/16"-14), 8 spacers (0.25" x 1.00" x 2.50"), and 8 fishwires (7/16").
Installation requires: partial removal and trimming of the underbody panel and heat shield; temporary lowering of the exhaust; trimming of the lower bumper cover (approximately 2" from the edge and 1-3/4" from center on each side, totaling 3-1/2" width); and removal of two metal tabs from the end of the frame rails using a reciprocating saw or angle grinder to make the flange straight. The heat shield is reinstalled after hitch mounting, and underbody panels are reinstalled either as-is or trimmed slightly (approximately 3-1/4" x 3/4") to fit around the hitch.
No drilling is required. The installation uses existing frame rail holes and access holes. However, a reciprocating saw or angle grinder is needed to remove two metal tabs from the frame rails and to trim the lower bumper cover.
Measure and mark 2" from the edge of the lower bumper cover and 1-3/4" from center on each side (3-1/2" total width) for trimming. Use a reciprocating saw to trim the marked area to allow clearance for the receiver hitch. The dimensions are approximate; adjust as required for your specific vehicle.
Yes. The exhaust must be temporarily lowered by unhooking three rubber isolators: two by the muffler and one towards the front of the vehicle. Be sure to support the exhaust when removing the isolators to prevent damage. The exhaust is raised back into position and the isolators are reattached after the hitch is mounted.
Two methods are available. If you have an exhaust hanger removal tool, use it to remove the isolators. Alternatively, use a 5/8" open end wrench and a pry bar: slide the wrench up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod, place the flat edge of the pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or rod, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the isolator. Using a lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and rubber isolator helps removal.
Remove the two fabric underbody side panels by removing three screws from the lower edge with a 7mm socket and two washer nuts from the upper edge with a 10mm socket. Set the panels aside for reinstallation later. After hitch installation, reinstall them either as-is or trim them slightly (approximately 3-1/4" x 3/4") to fit around the hitch as needed.
Remove the rearmost exhaust heat shield by removing four screws located in the lower bumper cover flange with a 7mm socket and two washer nuts above the muffler with a 10mm socket. Set the heat shield aside for reinstallation later. After the hitch is mounted, reinstall the heat shield, slightly bending as needed to provide clearance for the hitch receiver.
Before trimming the lower bumper cover, pull the kick sensor wires up and away from the cutting area to prevent damage during the trimming process.
The fishwire technique guides fasteners through frame rails without losing them. Insert the coiled end of the fishwire tool through the hitch mounting hole in the vehicle frame rail and out the access hole. Pass the coiled end through a spacer and thread a carriage bolt into the coil. Kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt. Pull the fishwire, spacer, and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole. Use the fishwire to guide the hitch during mounting and prevent loss of bolts or spacers inside the frame rail. Eight fishwires are included.
Raise the hitch into position with the exhaust hanger mount sliding into the notch in each side plate. Thread the four fishwires into the mounting holes. Remove the fishwires one by one and finger tighten the 7/16" serrated flange nuts to hold them in place.
Using tin snips, make two cuts in the center of the heat shield. Bend the area between the cuts further so it is bent back onto itself. This allows the heat shield to be reinstalled with clearance for the hitch receiver.
1. Fishwire two carriage bolts and spacers from the large access hole into the bottom round holes in the frame rail on each side, leaving all four fishwires attached. 2. Raise the hitch into position with the exhaust hanger mount sliding into the notch in each side plate. 3. Thread the four fishwires into the mounting holes and remove them one by one, finger tightening the 7/16" serrated flange nuts. 4. Fishwire the four remaining carriage bolts and spacers into the mounting holes on the side of the frame rail. 5. Remove the fishwires one by one and loosely install the remaining serrated flange nuts. 6. Torque all 7/16" fasteners to 49 ft-lbs.
Torque all 7/16" fasteners (carriage bolts and serrated-flange nuts) to 49 ft-lbs.
The hitch uses 8 carriage bolts, 7/16"-14 x 1-3/4". They are torqued to 49 ft-lbs.
The hitch uses 8 spacers with dimensions 0.25" x 1.00" x 2.50".
The hitch uses 8 serrated-flange nuts, 7/16"-14. They are torqued to 49 ft-lbs.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. Support the exhaust when removing isolators to prevent damage. Pull kick sensor wires up and away from the cutting area before trimming the bumper cover to prevent damage. Never exceed the vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The installation difficulty level is Moderate. Installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle, and proper tools and equipment.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the instruction manual, helpful videos, guides, and more. For product support, call 877.287.8634. For a tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation. For towing safety information, visit curtmfg.com/understanding-towing.
To register your purchase, get copies of product warranties, or provide feedback, visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys. CURT stands behind its products with industry-leading warranties.
The Curt 56539 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not specify which makes, models, or model years are compatible. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database with your vehicle's year, make, model, and cab style to confirm compatibility before purchase.
The Curt 56539 is a trailer wiring converter that integrates with your vehicle's factory taillight system to provide trailer lighting control. It converts the vehicle's taillight signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and running lights) to a 4-flat trailer connector. The system includes a powered converter module that connects to the vehicle battery and routes wiring through the rear of the vehicle.
No. The Curt 56539 is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only. It will not function on vehicles with positive ground electrical systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm your vehicle's ground system before installation.
You will need: T-20 Torx bit, utility knife, wire cutter, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, and wire crimper. The manual also recommends an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint from grounding points, and a test light or functioning trailer to verify proper operation after installation.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and fasten the wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation process. This is a required safety step to prevent electrical shock and short circuits.
Yes. The installation requires removing the spare tire and jack from the rear of the vehicle to access the interior of the hatch area where the converter box and wiring are routed. You will also remove the liner below the spare tire and jack.
Yes. You must disconnect and remove both the driver-side and passenger-side taillight housings to install the custom harness. The manual instructs you to take care not to damage the locking tabs when removing them. After installation, the taillights are reinstalled.
The black converter box mounts inside the vehicle near the taillight using the provided double-sided tape. The manual specifies locating a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhering the box to that surface.
Not necessarily. The manual instructs you to locate an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame as a grounding point. If no suitable existing fastener is available, you may drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The grounding area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it before securing the white ground wire with the ring terminal.
If an existing fastener is not available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground screw. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint before installation.
Use 12 GA (12-gauge) wire or larger for the power lead from the vehicle battery to the converter. The manual specifies 12 GA wire or larger on the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet.
The maximum fuse rating is 15 amps. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
The custom harness uses the following wire colors: Yellow for left turn signal, Green for right turn signal, Red for brake, and Brown for taillight (running lights). The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame. The black power wire connects to the positive battery terminal.
Route the 12 GA black power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
The signal circuits (left turn and right turn) are rated for 5.0 amps per side. The tail and running light circuits are rated for 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the product rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32" ground hole or when routing wires through the vehicle structure.
Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically marked with red covers or a red '+' symbol). This can cause a ground short, resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks. Keep tools away from the positive terminal during the entire installation process.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This confirms that all signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake, and running lights) are working properly before use.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevents electrical issues.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk, being careful not to catch the wires on the hatch locking mechanism. When not in use, roll up and store the connector under the spare tire area. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
The installation difficulty is rated as Moderate. Installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, the condition of the vehicle, and having proper tools and equipment.
Yes. You must remove the cargo hold-down loops from both the driver side and passenger side of the trunk area using a T-20 Torx bit. First, use the trim panel tool to remove the plastic trim from each loop, then remove the hold-down fastener.
Yes. You must loosen the side wall trim on both the driver side and passenger side of the trunk area using the panel trim removal tool to gain access to the inside of the hatch sidewall. This allows you to disconnect the taillight housings.
The yellow wire (left turn signal) is part of the custom harness that installs between the taillight and the vehicle harness on the driver side. The harness is routed down the driver's side of the vehicle.
The green wire (right turn signal) is routed along the rear lower hatch to the passenger's side of the vehicle and up behind the trim panel to the passenger-side taillight. It is then installed into the taillight housing and the vehicle wiring harness, and secured with the supplied cable ties.
If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded. Consult the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet for details on this configuration.
The Curt 56539 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground systems. Confirm your vehicle's compatibility with Curt Manufacturing or a fitment database before purchase.
You need a T-20 Torx bit, utility knife, wire cutter, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, and wire crimper. A test light or functioning trailer is also needed to verify proper operation after installation.
The battery connection must use a 15-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Drilling is optional. Use an existing vehicle frame fastener for grounding if available. If not, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal, as this can cause a short circuit, sparks, and electrical shock. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation.
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