2002-2003 Mercury Mountaineer Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install KitTekonsha$199.38Out of Stock
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1997 - 2001 Mercury Mountaineer
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Tekonsha is a leading manufacturer of electronic trailer brake controllers, pioneering the category in the 1970s. The lineup spans proportional units such as the Prodigy P3 and Prodigy iD, time-delayed controllers, the wireless Prodigy RF, plus vehicle-specific wiring harnesses, adapters and trailer brake components engineered for smooth, predictable stopping at any speed.
Tekonsha Engineering Company began in 1964 building RV steps and mirrors. Within a few years it had found its real calling, and by the 1970s Tekonsha was pioneering the manufacture of electronic trailer brake controllers, the product category that still defines the brand. More than half a century later it remains the reference name in trailer braking and is part of the Horizon Global group alongside Reese, Draw-Tite, Fulton, Bulldog and Wesbar.
A brake controller is the component that tells a trailer's electric brakes how hard to work and when, and getting that right is the difference between a controlled stop and a shove from behind. Tekonsha builds both major types. Proportional controllers use an internal accelerometer to sense how quickly the tow vehicle is slowing and apply trailer braking to match, so light braking stays light and hard braking is immediate. Time-delayed controllers ramp to a preset output over a fixed interval, a simpler and more economical approach that suits occasional towing.
The current brake controller range covers most of that ground. The Prodigy iD pairs with a phone through Tekonsha's EDGE technology for setup and monitoring, the P3 offers storable settings for multiple trailers and a trilingual colour LED display, the Prodigy P2 adds a dimmable display and boost mode for heavier loads, and the Voyager keeps operation simple and dependable. The Prodigy RF mounts to the trailer itself and controls wirelessly, which suits rental fleets and drivers who swap tow vehicles.
Installation is supported by vehicle-specific brake control harnesses that plug into a factory connector rather than requiring cut-and-splice wiring, along with mounting brackets and adapters. Matched controller bundles pair a unit with the correct harness. Products are tested to meet and often exceed published industry standards.
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1997 - 2001 | Mercury Mountaineer | — |
This unit is rated for 4 amps per circuit.
The manual does not specify vehicle make, model, year, cab style, or bed length compatibility. Contact the manufacturer or your retailer to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
The manual specifies a drill for the 3/32" hole in the metal cross brace. A screwdriver is needed to remove and reattach the taillights. No other tools are explicitly listed as required.
The kit includes: T-connector wiring harness with black box adapter, eyelet and screw for securing the white wire, ring terminal for battery connection, yellow butt connectors, foam tape for mounting the black box, cable ties for securing wires, a fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse, and a 4-flat connector. The 12 ga. black wire is included with the T-connector.
Yes. Step 8 requires you to disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery cable. The negative cable is reconnected in step 10 after the fuse is installed.
Yes. Step 2 requires opening the rear tailgate and removing both taillights by loosening the two screws on each assembly. The taillights are reattached in step 13 after all wiring connections are complete.
Stretch the T-connector wiring harness out across the bumper of the vehicle, placing the connector containing the green wire on the right (passenger's) side. Beginning on the left (driver's) side, route the black box and the connectors containing the yellow and red wires up through the access hole underneath the vehicle and out through the taillight opening.
For the driver's side: disconnect the top gray taillight socket carefully without breaking the locking tabs, then plug the T-connector containing the yellow wire between the separated halves. Next, disconnect the center black taillight socket and plug the T-connector containing the red wire between those halves. For the passenger's side: disconnect the top gray taillight socket and plug the T-connector containing the green wire between the separated halves. Ensure all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Yes. Step 6 requires drilling a 3/32" hole in the metal cross brace inside the taillight opening. The white wire is then secured to this hole using the eyelet and screw provided.
A 3/32" hole must be drilled in the metal cross brace inside the taillight opening to secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided.
Disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable first. Using the ring terminal provided, attach one end of the fuse holder to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 ga. wire included with the T-connector using the supplied yellow butt connector. After routing the wire from the front of the vehicle along the driver's side frame rail and through the access hole, attach the black 12 ga. wire to the wire on the black box labeled "Battery +" using the butt connector provided. Finally, reconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable and install the 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder.
A 10 amp fuse is required. It is installed in the fuse holder that connects to the vehicle's positive battery cable in step 8.
Beginning from the front of the vehicle, route the 12 ga. wire rearward along the driver's side frame rail and up through the access hole from step 4. Avoid any hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire.
The T-connector harness includes: yellow wire (connects to the top gray taillight socket on the driver's side), red wire (connects to the center black taillight socket on the driver's side), green wire (connects to the top gray taillight socket on the passenger's side), white wire (secured to the metal cross brace inside the taillight opening), and black 12 ga. wire (connects to the vehicle's positive battery through the fuse holder and to the black box labeled "Battery +").
Be careful not to break the locking tabs when disconnecting the taillight sockets. The manual emphasizes this caution in steps 5 and 7 when disconnecting both the gray and black taillight sockets.
Avoid routing the 12 ga. black wire near hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire. The wire should be routed along the driver's side frame rail from the front of the vehicle rearward to the access hole.
Test the installation with a test light or trailer. The manual does not provide specific testing procedures beyond this statement.
Secure all loose wires with the cable ties provided. Additionally, clean a flat area near the black box using a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water, then mount the black box to the clean area using the foam tape provided.
Route the 4-flat connector down through the taillight opening access hole and secure it under the vehicle. Alternatively, you may remove the access panel exposing the vehicle's jack storage compartment, slit the grommet between the taillight opening and the jack storage compartment, and push the 4-flat connector through for storage.
Clean a flat area near where you want to mount the black box using a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water. Mount the black box to the clean area using the foam tape provided. The black box should be mounted after all wiring connections are complete and tested.
The manual does not specify vehicle compatibility. Contact the manufacturer or retailer with your vehicle's year, make, model, cab style, and bed length to confirm fitment.
You need a drill (for the 3/32" hole), a screwdriver (to remove and reattach taillights), and the hardware provided in the kit. No other special tools are required.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery cable in step 8. Reconnect it after installing the 10 amp fuse in step 10.
Yes, you must drill a 3/32" hole in the metal cross brace inside the taillight opening to secure the white wire with the provided eyelet and screw.
A 10 amp fuse is required and is installed in the fuse holder that connects to the vehicle's positive battery cable.
This unit is rated for 4 amps per circuit.
The BRAKE mate is a trailer brake control system that allows you to control trailer brakes from your vehicle. It connects to your vehicle's electrical system and includes a brake control unit that mounts under the dash, circuit breakers for power management, and a prewired connector that attaches to your trailer.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years are compatible with the BRAKE mate. Contact Cequent Towing Products technical service at (888) 521-0510 or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
Yes. Step 4 of the installation instructions requires connecting the 4-pole flat connector to the vehicle's connector, which means your vehicle must already have a 4-pole flat connector. If your vehicle does not have one, the BRAKE mate cannot be installed using these instructions.
The kit includes: 1 prewired connector, 1 heavy duty flasher, 1 20 amp circuit breaker, 1 40 amp circuit breaker, 5 #10 G-ring connectors, 2 3/8" G-ring connectors, 5 Scotch locks, 8 self-tapping screws, and 6 wire tie straps.
The manual does not specify required tools. However, based on the installation steps, you will likely need a drill (to create a firewall hole if one does not exist), wire strippers, a screwdriver (for self-tapping screws), and possibly a crimper or pliers for ring connectors. Contact technical service at (888) 521-0510 for a complete tool list.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected before installation. Contact Cequent Towing Products technical service at (888) 521-0510 for safety guidance before beginning work.
Mount the bracket for the round connector on the bumper if that is where you intend to install it. Some hitches have built-in brackets, so check your hitch first before mounting a separate bracket.
Mount the brake control unit under the dash onto something firm. The unit must be securely fastened to a solid surface.
Mount the 2 circuit breakers (20 amp and 40 amp) end to end on the firewall within reach of the BLUE/BLACK cable. Secure them with the self-tapping screws supplied in the kit.
You may need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire from the engine bay into the cab. Look for an existing spot first; if none is available, drill a hole and seal it with a rubber grommet or silicone to prevent water and debris from entering the cab.
Some hitch brackets may need to be cut to allow the various connectors to pass through. Check your specific hitch bracket during installation; if it blocks connector passage, you will need to cut it.
Yes. In step 9, you must cut the black wire to create two open ends. These ends are then fitted with ring connectors and attached to the 40 amp and 20 amp circuit breakers respectively.
WHITE = ground wire; BLUE/BLACK = 2-strand power and trailer brake wire (runs from rear connector to front of vehicle and through firewall); RED = power wire from brake control unit; BLUE = trailer brake wire from brake control unit; GREEN = wire from brake control unit to brake switch.
Connect the WHITE ground wire to the frame of the vehicle. This provides the ground connection for the system.
Run the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire along the frame rail to the front of the vehicle, avoiding the exhaust, axles, and brake cables. Secure it with the plastic tie straps supplied. Then run it up the firewall, avoiding the steering mechanism, and secure it with ties.
Split the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire down the middle. Connect the RED (power) wire of the brake control unit to the BLACK wire using a Scotch lock. Connect the BLUE (trailer brake) wire of the brake control unit to the BLUE wire using a Scotch lock. Connect the WHITE wire of the brake control unit to the ground on the vehicle body. Connect the GREEN wire of the brake control unit to the inactive side of the brake switch.
Run a heavy gauge wire from the battery or equivalent power source to the battery side of either circuit breaker. Attach a #10 G-ring connector to one end of the wire. Then split a wire off this main wire to the 20 amp breaker using a Scotch lock and attach a #10 G-ring connector to the end of this wire. Alternatively, you can run a jumper between the two breakers.
The circuit breakers protect the electrical system. The 40 amp breaker is connected to the auxiliary side of the wire going to the rear connector. The 20 amp breaker is connected to the auxiliary side of the wire going through the firewall to the brake control unit.
The heavy duty flasher is a replacement turn signal flasher. If your turn signals blink too fast after installation, replace your vehicle's original turn signal flasher with the one supplied in the kit.
After attaching the round connector with self-tapping screws, test the connector for: running lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hot wire (power). Note that the brake control output cannot be tested unless a trailer is connected to the connector.
If the turn signals are blinking too fast after installation, replace the turn signal flasher with the heavy duty flasher supplied in the BRAKE mate kit.
After drilling a hole through the firewall to run the BLUE/BLACK wire into the cab, seal the hole with a rubber grommet or silicone to prevent water and debris from entering the vehicle.
When running the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire along the frame rail and up the firewall, avoid the exhaust, axles, brake cables, and steering mechanism. These components can damage the wire or be damaged by it. Secure the wire with the supplied plastic tie straps.
Your vehicle must have a 4-pole flat connector. Contact Cequent Towing Products at (888) 521-0510 or check a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific make, model, and year.
The kit includes a prewired connector, brake control unit, 20 amp and 40 amp circuit breakers, 5 #10 G-ring connectors, 2 3/8" G-ring connectors, 5 Scotch locks, 8 self-tapping screws, 6 wire tie straps, and a heavy duty flasher.
You may need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the brake wire into the cab if an existing hole is not available. The hole must be sealed with a rubber grommet or silicone.
Connect WHITE (ground) to frame, RED (power) to BLACK wire, BLUE (trailer brake) to BLUE wire, GREEN to brake switch, and run BLUE/BLACK from rear connector through firewall to brake control unit.
Test for running lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hot wire (power). Brake control output cannot be tested without a trailer connected. If turn signals blink too fast, replace the flasher with the one supplied.
Avoid routing the BLUE/BLACK wire near the exhaust, axles, brake cables, or steering mechanism. Secure all wires with the supplied plastic tie straps.
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