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2020 - 2026 Hyundai Venue
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Complete CURT Class 1 1-1/4" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2020 - 2026 Hyundai Venue. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
However you define adventure -- whether it's climbing onto the back of a mountain bike, hunting from the top of a tree stand or camping with the family a long way from nowhere -- CURT class 1 hitches provide a light-duty towing receiver to help you Bring It. Each is made to fit a specific vehicle, providing easier installation, a better fit and optimal towing capacity. Custom class 1 trailer hitches are available for a variety of smaller vehicle types, including the compact car, crossover, minivan and small SUV. This particular class 1 hitch is designed to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Hyundai Venue (to verify vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). Tested in accordance with SAE J684, it offers a weight carrying capacity of 2,000 lbs. GTW and 200 lbs. TW. It is equipped with 1-1/4" receiver tube opening to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch mount. This class 1 hitch also comes with all necessary mounting hardware. With its lightweight design and smaller receiver tube size, a class 1 hitch is especially useful for adding cargo space with a hitch-mounted bike rack or cargo carrier. They can also typically be used to tow small trailers such as a utility trailer, kayak trailer or teardrop camper (never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component; i.e. the vehicle, hitch, trailer, etc). Though CURT class 1 trailer hitches are only intended for light-duty towing, we apply the same principles of quality as we do to the rest of our rear mount hitches. Each class 1 hitch is made with hands-on engineering, high-strength steel and precise welding. We use a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat, inside and out, and durable black powder coat to provide a lasting defense against rust, chips and UV rays.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Hyundai Venue (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494One-Year Limited Warranty
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2020 - 2026 | Hyundai Venue | — |
The 20 - 24 Hyundai Venue Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11609 (Part #CHW-1896) fits the following vehicles: 2020-2024 Hyundai Venue. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 20 - 24 Hyundai Venue Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11609 (Part #CHW-1896) is designed to fit the 2020-2024 Hyundai Venue.
The 20 - 24 Hyundai Venue Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11609 (Part #CHW-1896) fits 2020-2024 Hyundai Venue models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 20 - 24 Hyundai Venue Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11609 (Part #CHW-1896) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Part 56451 is designed for SUVs and Vans (S-series vehicles). The manual does not list specific vehicle models or years. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database with your vehicle's year, make and model to confirm compatibility.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Do not use it on 24-volt systems or positive ground vehicles.
The 56451 is a wiring converter system that integrates trailer lighting into your vehicle's electrical system. It connects to your vehicle's taillight wiring and provides a 4-flat connector for trailer use. The system includes a converter box, custom wiring harness with colour-coded wires (yellow for left turn, green for right turn, red for brake, brown for taillight), and a powered lead that connects to your vehicle battery.
You will need: ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, flathead screwdriver, heat gun, drill, 3/32" drill bit, and a trim panel removal tool. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The kit includes: a black converter box, custom wiring harness with yellow, green, red and brown wires, white ground wire with ring terminal, black power wire, 4-flat connector, provided screw for ground connection, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing loose wires, 10-amp fuse holder with fuse, and a 4-flat dust cover.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Disconnect it in Step 1 and keep the wire fastened down and away from the battery. Reconnect it only after all other installation steps are complete and the fuse has been installed.
The installation difficulty is rated as Moderate. This is based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
The taillight wiring connectors are located behind the side trim panels. On the driver side, remove the 10mm bolts securing the side trim panel and use a trim panel removal tool to loosen it. The connectors will be similar to those on the custom wiring harness. Repeat on the passenger side. Take care not to damage alignment tabs or fasteners when removing panels.
Separate the vehicle taillight connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Route the custom wiring end with the green wire to the passenger side along the back of the hatch. Repeat the process on the passenger side using the wiring end with the green wire.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The area should be clean and suitable for mounting.
You may need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground screw, depending on your vehicle. Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. This prevents damage to the wire insulation and potential electrical hazards.
Signal circuits are rated at 6.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 3.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Use 12 GA (gauge) wire or larger for the power connection from the vehicle battery to the converter. Route the 12 GA wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The custom wiring harness uses the following colour code: Yellow = Left turn signal, Green = Right turn signal, Red = Brake, Brown = Taillight. The white wire is the ground wire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. Route the black power wire to the positive battery (+) terminal. The white ground wire should be attached to the vehicle body using the provided screw (drill a 3/32" hole if necessary). Disconnect the negative battery cable before wiring the power wire, and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Route the 12 GA power wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This should be done before final use.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and safety of the converter system.
The 56451 is designed for SUVs and Vans (S-series). Confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle year, make and model using a fitment database or by contacting Curt Manufacturing.
No. The 56451 works only on 12-volt negative ground electrical systems.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation and reconnect it only after all steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
Drilling may be required. You may need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground screw if no existing screw is available at a suitable grounding point. Check for hidden items before drilling.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install it after all other steps are complete.
Use 12 GA (gauge) wire or larger for the power connection from the vehicle battery to the converter.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. Exceeding this can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
The manual does not specify vehicle make, model, or year compatibility. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 or visit curtmfg.com for fitment information.
The CURT 11609 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 200 lbs. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
200 lbs.
2,000 lbs.
You will need: ratchet, torque wrench, 3/4" socket, 12mm socket, 13mm socket, flathead screwdriver, and safety glasses. A 5/8" open-end wrench and pry bar are helpful for exhaust hanger removal if you do not have exhaust hanger removal pliers. For a full tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
Yes. You must torque the M8 bolts to 23 lb-ft and the 1/2" nut to 110 lb-ft.
The kit includes: 1 carriage bolt 1/2"-13 x 1-3/4" grade 8, 4 hex bolts M8-1.25 x 35mm CL 10.9, 1 serrated-flange nut 1/2" x 13, 4 conical-toothed washers 3/8", and 1 square-hole spacer 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 3".
No. The installation uses existing weldnuts in the vehicle frame. No drilling is required.
Yes. The installation requires you to lower the muffler by removing the exhaust hanger rods from the rubber isolators on both sides and gently setting the muffler on the rear axle. The hitch is then slid over the exhaust. The muffler is reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Use a 5/8" open-end wrench and a pry bar. Slide the wrench up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod. Place the flat edge of the pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or hanger rod, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the rubber isolator. Using a lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and rubber isolator helps removal.
Remove the passenger-side exhaust hanger first. The passenger-side exhaust hanger is located closer to the exhaust tip. The driver-side exhaust hanger is located closer to the front of the muffler.
Spray lubricant or compressed air into the hole to remove debris. For heavy debris, use a wire brush. Take care not to damage the threads.
1. Remove two push fasteners from the bumper fascia near the wheel well on both sides. 2. Remove the plastic underbody panel by removing two push fasteners and unscrewing two plastic flange nuts. 3. Remove one push fastener from the fascia support ribs on the driver, center and passenger sides. 4. Lower the muffler by removing exhaust hanger rods from rubber isolators on both sides and gently setting the muffler on the rear axle. 5. Remove two bolts from the bumper beam mount on both sides using a 13mm socket. 6. Raise the trailer hitch into position by sliding it over the exhaust and gently pulling down on the fascia. 7. Install the M8 hex bolts with conical-toothed washers into the weldnuts on the bumper beam mount, install the carriage bolt with square-hole spacer in the recovery loop, and loosely install the flange nut. Torque all M8 bolts to 23 lb-ft and the 1/2" nut to 110 lb-ft. Reinstall all fasteners, plastic panel and muffler.
Two push fasteners must be removed from the bumper fascia near the wheel well on both sides (four total). Additionally, one push fastener must be removed from the fascia support ribs on the driver, center and passenger sides (three total).
The plastic underbody body panel is removed by removing two push fasteners with a flathead screwdriver and unscrewing two plastic flange nuts. All fasteners are set aside for reinstallation in Step 7.
Two bolts are removed from the bumper beam mount on both sides (four total) using a 13mm socket. On the driver side, there is one bolt on both sides of the vehicle frame. On the passenger side, two bolts are located on the passenger side of the vehicle frame.
Raise the trailer hitch into position by sliding it over the exhaust first and gently pulling down on the fascia.
All M8 hex bolts must be torqued to 23 lb-ft.
110 lb-ft.
The carriage bolt is 1/2"-13 x 1-3/4", grade 8. It is installed in the top of the recovery loop with a square-hole spacer and torqued to 110 lb-ft.
The hex bolts are M8-1.25 x 35mm, CL 10.9. Four bolts are included and are installed with conical-toothed washers into the weldnuts on the bumper beam mount on both sides. They are torqued to 23 lb-ft.
The square-hole spacer (1/4" x 1-1/2" x 3") is installed with the 1/2" carriage bolt in the top of the recovery loop.
The conical-toothed washers are installed with the hex bolts on the bumper beam mount. The manual shows the washer orientation in the assembly diagram on page 2, with the conical teeth facing toward the hitch side plate.
The M8 hex bolts and 1/2" flange nut are loosely installed first, then all M8 bolts are torqued to 23 lb-ft and the 1/2" nut is torqued to 110 lb-ft.
All fasteners removed in Steps 1-3 (push fasteners from the bumper fascia and fascia support ribs, and fasteners from the plastic underbody panel) are reinstalled. The muffler and exhaust hanger rods are also reinstalled.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes. Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
The manual states that periodic inspection should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure, but does not specify an inspection interval.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the instruction manual, as well as helpful videos, guides and more. You can also contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634.
To register your purchase, get copies of product warranties, or provide feedback, visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys.
The installation difficulty is rated as Easy. However, installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle and proper tools and equipment.
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