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2020 - 2024 Jeep Gladiator
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| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LBS |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 7,500 LBS |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 8,000 LBS |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 800 LBS |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2020 - 2024 | Jeep Gladiator | — |
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The 13503 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 7,500 lbs. and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 750 lbs. For weight distribution towing, the capacity is 8,000 lbs. GTW with 800 lbs. tongue weight.
The manual states that installation requires removal of four bumper tube bolts, but does not specify whether the entire bumper must be removed or only the bolts. Consult the full-color manual at curtmfg.com or contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 for clarification on your specific vehicle.
You will need a 3/4" socket, 21mm socket, torque wrench, and ratchet. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The manual recommends having a second person or using a jack to assist in lifting the hitch into position during Step 3. This is not strictly required but is recommended to make installation easier and safer.
Torque all M14 factory fasteners to 126 ft-lbs. and all 1/2" supplied fasteners to 110 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The 13503 has a maximum GTW of 7,500 lbs. (or 8,000 lbs. with weight distribution), but your vehicle's capacity may be lower. Always follow your vehicle manufacturer's limits.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify an inspection interval; contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 for a recommended maintenance schedule.
The kit includes two carriage bolts (1/2"-13 UNC, 1-3/4", grade 8), two serrated flange nuts (1/2"-13 UNC, grade 8), two round hole spacers (.188" x 1.50" x 2.00"), two square hole spacers (.250" x 1.00" x 3.00"), and two fishwire tools (1/2"). The factory M14 bolts securing the rear crossbeam are reused as part of the installation.
The manual does not specify which vehicle year, make, model or body style the 13503 is compatible with. The hitch is designed to mount to vehicles with rear crossbeams secured by M14 factory bolts. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
The fishwire is a tool used to guide the carriage bolt and spacer through the vehicle frame rail. Insert the coiled end of the fishwire through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole. Pass the coiled end through the spacer and thread the bolt into the coil. Kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt. Pull the fishwire, spacer, and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole. This technique prevents loss of the bolt or spacer inside the frame rail during installation.
1. Remove the four factory M14 bolts securing the rear crossbeam using a 21mm socket. 2. Use the fishwire technique to insert the square hole spacers (#4) and carriage bolts (#1) into the forward mounting hole of both frame rails. 3. Slide the round hole spacers (#3) onto the fishwired bolts and raise the hitch into position. Loosely reinstall the four factory M14 bolts. 4. Loosely install the supplied serrated flange nuts (#2) onto the fishwired bolts. 5. Torque all M14 fasteners to 126 ft-lbs. and all 1/2" fasteners to 110 ft-lbs.
During installation, loosely reinstall the four factory M14 bolts in Step 3 and loosely install the supplied 1/2" serrated flange nuts in Step 4. All fasteners are tightened to final torque specifications in Step 5: M14 fasteners to 126 ft-lbs. and 1/2" fasteners to 110 ft-lbs.
Torque all M14 factory fasteners to 126 ft-lbs. using a torque wrench. These are the four bolts that secure the rear crossbeam to the frame.
Torque all 1/2" fasteners (the supplied carriage bolts and serrated flange nuts) to 110 ft-lbs. using a torque wrench.
Yes. The four factory M14 bolts that secure the rear crossbeam to the frame are removed in Step 1 and then loosely reinstalled in Step 3 as part of the hitch mounting. These factory bolts are reused and do not need to be replaced.
You will need a 21mm socket to remove the four factory M14 bolts that secure the rear crossbeam to the frame.
The manual does not mention disconnecting the vehicle battery. This is a mechanical hitch installation with no electrical components, so battery disconnection is not required.
No drilling is required. The hitch mounts to existing factory M14 bolt holes in the frame and uses the fishwire technique to insert fasteners through the frame rails without drilling.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. The manual recommends having a second person or using a jack to assist in lifting the hitch into position to prevent injury. Proper tools will improve the quality of installation and reduce the time required.
CURT rates the installation difficulty as Easy. Installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle, and proper tools and equipment.
To register your purchase, get copies of product warranties, or provide feedback, visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys. CURT stands behind its products with industry-leading warranties.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the installation manual, as well as helpful videos, guides, and more. You can also contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634.
The square hole spacers (.250" x 1.00" x 3.00") are fishwired into the forward mounting hole of both frame rails along with the carriage bolts. The round hole spacers (.188" x 1.50" x 2.00") are then slid onto the fishwired bolts before raising the hitch into position. These spacers help position and support the hitch during mounting.
The access hole is used with the fishwire technique to guide the carriage bolt and spacer through the frame rail. The fishwire is inserted through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole (the next hole forward), allowing you to thread the bolt into the coil and pull the spacer and bolt through the frame without losing them inside the rail.
Yes, CURT 56407 is designed for Jeep Wrangler. The manual provides specific installation steps for Wrangler (Steps 2A–9A), including taillight access and wiring routing procedures unique to that model.
Yes, CURT 56407 is designed for Jeep Gladiator. The manual provides specific installation steps for Gladiator (Steps 2B–8B), including taillight removal using an 8mm socket and wiring routing procedures unique to that model.
CURT 56407 is a powered converter lead wiring harness system that converts your vehicle's factory taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with standard 4-flat lighting to your Jeep Wrangler or Gladiator.
Required tools are: ratchet, ratchet extension, wire stripper, wire crimper, Torx bit T-30, cutting tool, flat blade screwdriver, and fish wire. For Gladiator, you also need an 8mm socket. A test light or 4-flat tester is needed to verify function after installation.
The kit includes: custom wiring harness with yellow, green, and black wires; black converter box; white ground wire with ring terminal; provided ground screw; double-sided tape for converter box mounting; cable ties for securing wires; 4-flat connector; 4-flat dust cover; and butt connectors. A 10-amp fuse holder is included and must be installed after all other steps are complete.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until you are ready to connect the 12-volt power wire in the final steps.
The installation is rated as Easy. However, you must follow all steps carefully to ensure proper function. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and using proper tools to improve installation quality.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. You must locate a grounding point near the converter box, such as an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame. If no existing fastener is available, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint (use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it). Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. The fuse holder with 10-amp fuse must be installed after all other steps are complete.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Use 12 GA (12-gauge) wire or larger for the power wire running from the vehicle battery to the converter. Route this wire carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect it from sharp edges.
The wiring harness uses the following color code: Yellow = Left turn, Green = Right turn, Red = Brake, Brown = Taillight. The custom wiring harness has a yellow wire end that connects to the factory wiring on the driver side, and a green wire end that routes to the passenger side. The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal.
The white ground wire has a ring terminal that must be secured to the vehicle body using either an existing fastener (screw or bolt in the frame) or the provided ground screw. If drilling is necessary, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Before securing, clean the area thoroughly with an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust, dirt, and paint. This ensures a solid ground connection.
On Wrangler: (1) Open the tailgate. (2) On the driver side, locate the small trim access cover on the rear corner and use a flat blade screwdriver to remove it. (3) Locate the plastic fastener securing the taillight and use a T-30 Torx bit to carefully remove it without damaging it. (4) With the taillight loose, pull it straight back. (5) Disconnect the wiring harness by sliding the red housing lock to the rear. Separate the connectors carefully without damaging the locking tabs. Repeat on the passenger side.
On Gladiator: (1) Open the tailgate. (2) Use an 8mm socket to remove the two bolts securing the taillight to the vehicle. (3) Remove the taillight by pulling it straight back. (4) Separate the connectors, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Repeat on the passenger side.
Mount the black converter box on a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Use the provided double-sided tape to adhere it. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire. The box must be positioned so you can access the ground wire connection point nearby.
Locate the side of the custom wiring harness with the yellow wire and insert it into the factory wiring harness on the driver side. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with the locking tabs in place. On the passenger side, route the green wire up to the passenger-side taillight harness and insert the custom wiring harness into the factory wiring, again ensuring full insertion with locking tabs in place.
On Wrangler: Route the custom wiring harness end with the green wire and 4-flat down the opening to the rear leaf spring shackle, then above the frame and below the body along the rear bumper towards the passenger side. Mount the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle near the hitch. On Gladiator: Route the green wire and 4-flat down the opening behind the taillight and along the rear bumper towards the passenger side, then mount the 4-flat to the center near the hitch. Secure all loose wires with provided cable ties.
Route the black 12 GA power wire from the converter to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Connect the ring terminal of the power wire to the positive (+) battery terminal. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect it from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Install the 10-amp fuse in the fuse holder after all other steps are complete.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This must be done before reinstalling the taillights.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Yes. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion of the connector.
CURT 56407 is designed for use only on 12-volt negative ground systems. Do not use on any other electrical system configuration.
Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Refer to your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for specific lamp load rating information.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent electrical issues.
Yes, CURT 56407 is designed for both Jeep Wrangler and Jeep Gladiator. The manual includes separate installation steps for each model.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep it disconnected until you are ready to connect the power wire in the final steps.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. If no existing fastener is available in the vehicle frame, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness and before reinstalling the taillights, test the harness by attaching the battery and using a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This confirms that all signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake, and taillight) are working correctly before completing the installation.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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