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2013 - 2016 Ford Escape
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Tekonsha is a leading manufacturer of electronic trailer brake controllers, pioneering the category in the 1970s. The lineup spans proportional units such as the Prodigy P3 and Prodigy iD, time-delayed controllers, the wireless Prodigy RF, plus vehicle-specific wiring harnesses, adapters and trailer brake components engineered for smooth, predictable stopping at any speed.
Tekonsha Engineering Company began in 1964 building RV steps and mirrors. Within a few years it had found its real calling, and by the 1970s Tekonsha was pioneering the manufacture of electronic trailer brake controllers, the product category that still defines the brand. More than half a century later it remains the reference name in trailer braking and is part of the Horizon Global group alongside Reese, Draw-Tite, Fulton, Bulldog and Wesbar.
A brake controller is the component that tells a trailer's electric brakes how hard to work and when, and getting that right is the difference between a controlled stop and a shove from behind. Tekonsha builds both major types. Proportional controllers use an internal accelerometer to sense how quickly the tow vehicle is slowing and apply trailer braking to match, so light braking stays light and hard braking is immediate. Time-delayed controllers ramp to a preset output over a fixed interval, a simpler and more economical approach that suits occasional towing.
The current brake controller range covers most of that ground. The Prodigy iD pairs with a phone through Tekonsha's EDGE technology for setup and monitoring, the P3 offers storable settings for multiple trailers and a trilingual colour LED display, the Prodigy P2 adds a dimmable display and boost mode for heavier loads, and the Voyager keeps operation simple and dependable. The Prodigy RF mounts to the trailer itself and controls wirelessly, which suits rental fleets and drivers who swap tow vehicles.
Installation is supported by vehicle-specific brake control harnesses that plug into a factory connector rather than requiring cut-and-splice wiring, along with mounting brackets and adapters. Matched controller bundles pair a unit with the correct harness. Products are tested to meet and often exceed published industry standards.
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2013 - 2016 | Ford Escape | — |
The 2013-2016 Ford Escape Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install Kit (Part #TBCW26266) fits 2013-2016 Ford Escape models. The 2016 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 2013-2016 Ford Escape Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install Kit (Part #TBCW26266) fits the following vehicles: 2013-2016 Ford Escape. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 2013-2016 Ford Escape Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install Kit (Part #TBCW26266) is designed to fit the 2013-2016 Ford Escape.
The 2013-2016 Ford Escape Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install Kit (Part #TBCW26266) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The BRAKE mate is a trailer brake control system that allows you to control trailer brakes from your vehicle. It connects to your vehicle's electrical system and includes a brake control unit that mounts under the dash, circuit breakers for power management, and a prewired connector that attaches to your trailer.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years are compatible with the BRAKE mate. Contact Cequent Towing Products technical service at (888) 521-0510 or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
Yes. Step 4 of the installation instructions requires connecting the 4-pole flat connector to the vehicle's connector, which means your vehicle must already have a 4-pole flat connector. If your vehicle does not have one, the BRAKE mate cannot be installed using these instructions.
The kit includes: 1 prewired connector, 1 heavy duty flasher, 1 20 amp circuit breaker, 1 40 amp circuit breaker, 5 #10 G-ring connectors, 2 3/8" G-ring connectors, 5 Scotch locks, 8 self-tapping screws, and 6 wire tie straps.
The manual does not specify required tools. However, based on the installation steps, you will likely need a drill (to create a firewall hole if one does not exist), wire strippers, a screwdriver (for self-tapping screws), and possibly a crimper or pliers for ring connectors. Contact technical service at (888) 521-0510 for a complete tool list.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected before installation. Contact Cequent Towing Products technical service at (888) 521-0510 for safety guidance before beginning work.
Mount the bracket for the round connector on the bumper if that is where you intend to install it. Some hitches have built-in brackets, so check your hitch first before mounting a separate bracket.
Mount the brake control unit under the dash onto something firm. The unit must be securely fastened to a solid surface.
Mount the 2 circuit breakers (20 amp and 40 amp) end to end on the firewall within reach of the BLUE/BLACK cable. Secure them with the self-tapping screws supplied in the kit.
You may need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire from the engine bay into the cab. Look for an existing spot first; if none is available, drill a hole and seal it with a rubber grommet or silicone to prevent water and debris from entering the cab.
Some hitch brackets may need to be cut to allow the various connectors to pass through. Check your specific hitch bracket during installation; if it blocks connector passage, you will need to cut it.
Yes. In step 9, you must cut the black wire to create two open ends. These ends are then fitted with ring connectors and attached to the 40 amp and 20 amp circuit breakers respectively.
WHITE = ground wire; BLUE/BLACK = 2-strand power and trailer brake wire (runs from rear connector to front of vehicle and through firewall); RED = power wire from brake control unit; BLUE = trailer brake wire from brake control unit; GREEN = wire from brake control unit to brake switch.
Connect the WHITE ground wire to the frame of the vehicle. This provides the ground connection for the system.
Run the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire along the frame rail to the front of the vehicle, avoiding the exhaust, axles, and brake cables. Secure it with the plastic tie straps supplied. Then run it up the firewall, avoiding the steering mechanism, and secure it with ties.
Split the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire down the middle. Connect the RED (power) wire of the brake control unit to the BLACK wire using a Scotch lock. Connect the BLUE (trailer brake) wire of the brake control unit to the BLUE wire using a Scotch lock. Connect the WHITE wire of the brake control unit to the ground on the vehicle body. Connect the GREEN wire of the brake control unit to the inactive side of the brake switch.
Run a heavy gauge wire from the battery or equivalent power source to the battery side of either circuit breaker. Attach a #10 G-ring connector to one end of the wire. Then split a wire off this main wire to the 20 amp breaker using a Scotch lock and attach a #10 G-ring connector to the end of this wire. Alternatively, you can run a jumper between the two breakers.
The circuit breakers protect the electrical system. The 40 amp breaker is connected to the auxiliary side of the wire going to the rear connector. The 20 amp breaker is connected to the auxiliary side of the wire going through the firewall to the brake control unit.
The heavy duty flasher is a replacement turn signal flasher. If your turn signals blink too fast after installation, replace your vehicle's original turn signal flasher with the one supplied in the kit.
After attaching the round connector with self-tapping screws, test the connector for: running lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hot wire (power). Note that the brake control output cannot be tested unless a trailer is connected to the connector.
If the turn signals are blinking too fast after installation, replace the turn signal flasher with the heavy duty flasher supplied in the BRAKE mate kit.
After drilling a hole through the firewall to run the BLUE/BLACK wire into the cab, seal the hole with a rubber grommet or silicone to prevent water and debris from entering the vehicle.
When running the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire along the frame rail and up the firewall, avoid the exhaust, axles, brake cables, and steering mechanism. These components can damage the wire or be damaged by it. Secure the wire with the supplied plastic tie straps.
Your vehicle must have a 4-pole flat connector. Contact Cequent Towing Products at (888) 521-0510 or check a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific make, model, and year.
The kit includes a prewired connector, brake control unit, 20 amp and 40 amp circuit breakers, 5 #10 G-ring connectors, 2 3/8" G-ring connectors, 5 Scotch locks, 8 self-tapping screws, 6 wire tie straps, and a heavy duty flasher.
You may need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the brake wire into the cab if an existing hole is not available. The hole must be sealed with a rubber grommet or silicone.
Connect WHITE (ground) to frame, RED (power) to BLACK wire, BLUE (trailer brake) to BLUE wire, GREEN to brake switch, and run BLUE/BLACK from rear connector through firewall to brake control unit.
Test for running lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hot wire (power). Brake control output cannot be tested without a trailer connected. If turn signals blink too fast, replace the flasher with the one supplied.
Avoid routing the BLUE/BLACK wire near the exhaust, axles, brake cables, or steering mechanism. Secure all wires with the supplied plastic tie straps.
The T-Connector is a trailer wiring converter that integrates with your Ford Escape's factory taillight wiring to provide a 4-Flat trailer connector. It uses a T-shaped connector that taps into both the driver's and passenger's side taillight sockets, allowing you to connect a trailer without modifying the vehicle's original wiring. The system includes a converter box, fuse holder, and all necessary connectors and hardware.
Yes, the T-Connector is designed for the Ford Escape. The manual does not specify trim level, model year, or body style restrictions, so you should verify compatibility with the manufacturer or your vehicle's documentation if you have questions about your specific model year or configuration.
Required tools are: trim panel remover, 8mm socket and ratchet or 8mm wrench, drill with 3/32" bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, and test-probe. The manual lists these as required; you may also need safety glasses, which are mandatory for installation.
The kit includes: two T-Connector ends (one with yellow wires for driver's side, one with green wire for passenger's side), a 4-Flat connector, a black converter box, a yellow fuse holder with 15 amp fuse, yellow butt connectors, a white eyelet and screw for grounding, cable ties, and double-sided tape for mounting the converter box. A bracket for the 4-Flat is not included.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable before beginning the wiring work. This is done in step 6 as part of the fuse holder installation. After connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery cable, you reconnect the negative cable in step 9 before testing.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to open the tailgate and remove both taillight assemblies by removing four 8mm hex head bolts on each side. Carefully pry the housings away from the vehicle without breaking the alignment tabs. The T-Connector plugs into the taillight sockets, so removal is necessary.
In step 2, disconnect the vehicle's wiring harness from the driver's side taillight socket. Fish the T-Connector end with yellow wires up between the bumper and vehicle body into the taillight pocket. In step 3, plug the T-Connector end with the yellow wire between the mating plugs on the driver's side taillight socket and the vehicle wiring harness. This creates an in-line connection.
In step 4, route the T-Connector end with the green wire to the passenger's side and route the 4-Flat connector underneath the bumper. Route the T-Connector end with green wire up through the opening on the passenger side, being careful to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Then repeat step 3 to plug it into the passenger's side taillight socket and vehicle harness.
Yes. Step 5 requires drilling a 3/32" hole to secure the white ground wire. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the connector (not on the vehicle floor or bed), clean dirt and rustproofing from the area, drill the hole, and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided. Before drilling, verify what is behind the surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury.
Drill a 3/32" hole for the white ground wire. This hole is used to secure the eyelet and screw provided in the kit.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector on a flat surface. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed, and do not drill into any exposed surfaces. Clean dirt and rustproofing from the area before drilling. Always verify what is behind any surface prior to drilling to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury.
The system uses a 15 amp fuse. The fuse is installed in the yellow fuse holder provided in the kit. In step 6, you remove the fuse from the holder, cut the fuse holder wire, attach the ring terminal to the vehicle's positive battery cable, and connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using a yellow butt connector. The 15 amp fuse is then installed in step 9.
The main power wire is 12 gauge (12 ga.). This black wire runs from the fuse holder along the frame rail from the front of the vehicle to the rear driver's side, where it connects to the black wire from the T-Connector black box using a yellow butt connector.
Beginning from the front of the vehicle in step 7, route the black 12 gauge wire rearward along the frame rail. In step 8, route it to the rear driver's side and locate the opening between the vehicle rear bumper and body. Route the wire up through this hole and attach it to the black wire from the T-Connector black box using the supplied yellow butt connector. Route carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire.
The T-Connector has yellow wires on the driver's side connector, green wire on the passenger's side connector, black wire from the converter box (which connects to the 12 gauge power wire), and a white wire for grounding. The yellow and green wires tap into the taillight sockets; the black wire carries power from the fuse holder; the white wire grounds to the vehicle body.
In step 6, disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable. Remove the fuse from the yellow fuse holder, cut the fuse holder wire, and attach the ring terminal to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the yellow butt connector provided. Do not reconnect the negative battery cable until step 9, after all wiring is complete.
In step 10, locate a flat surface on the driver's side in an out-of-the-way place and mount the T-Connector's black converter box using the double-sided tape provided. Mount it so that the epoxy side of the module is pointed towards the ground to prevent water buildup.
Mount the 4-Flat in a suitable location under the vehicle. The manual notes that a bracket is not included, so you will need to source or fabricate a mounting solution. The connector should be routed underneath the bumper as part of the installation process in step 4.
Always wear safety glasses during installation. Read and follow all warnings and cautions printed on the tow vehicle's battery. Before drilling, verify what is behind any surface to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury. Route all wires carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Do not drill into the vehicle floor, bed, or exposed surfaces. After installation, test and verify the system with a test light or trailer.
The manual states you must not exceed the lower of the towing manufacturer rating (including in your vehicle owner's manual) or the specific amperage ratings stated on the product. The manual does not specify the product's amperage rating, so you should check the product label or contact the manufacturer for this information.
After reconnecting the vehicle's negative battery cable and installing the 15 amp fuse in step 9, test and verify the installation with a test light or trailer. This ensures all connections are correct and the system is functioning properly before towing.
In step 11, reinstall the taillight housing assemblies, positioning the vehicle wiring harness between the housing and the vehicle body. Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness under the bumper with the cable ties provided, being careful to avoid any areas that would cut or pinch the wire. Then secure the four 8mm hex head bolts on each side.
Yes. Overloading circuits can cause fires. Do not exceed the stated product ratings or the towing manufacturer rating (including in your vehicle owner's manual). Always read your vehicle's owner's manual and the T-Connector instruction sheet for additional information on safe towing capacity.
Yes, the T-Connector (118566-037) is designed for the Ford Escape. Verify your specific model year and configuration with the manufacturer if needed.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery cable before beginning wiring work in step 6. Reconnect it in step 9 after the fuse holder is installed.
The system uses a 15 amp fuse installed in the yellow fuse holder provided. The fuse is connected to the vehicle's positive battery cable.
Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle's towing manufacturer rating or the product's amperage rating. Check the product label and your vehicle's owner's manual for specific limits.
First, verify the installation with a test light or trailer as instructed in step 9. Check that the 15 amp fuse is installed in the yellow fuse holder and is not blown. Verify that all connections are secure: the T-Connector plugs at both taillight sockets, the black wire connection to the converter box, and the ground wire eyelet. Ensure the negative battery cable is fully reconnected. If the system still does not work, consult the vehicle's owner's manual and the T-Connector instruction sheet for additional troubleshooting.
The converter box must be mounted with the epoxy side pointed towards the ground to prevent water buildup. If water is accumulating, remount the box in the correct orientation as specified in step 10. Ensure the double-sided tape is securing the box firmly and that it is positioned on a flat surface where water cannot pool.
If wiring is pinched or damaged, do not proceed with installation. The manual explicitly warns to route wires carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Reroute the affected wire to a safe path, or if damage has occurred, replace the damaged section before reconnecting the battery and testing the system.





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