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Complete CURT Class 1 1-1/4" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2020 - 2023 Hyundai Sonata Excluding N Line. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
However you define adventure -- whether it's climbing onto the back of a mountain bike, hunting from the top of a tree stand or camping with the family a long way from nowhere -- CURT class 1 hitches provide a light-duty towing receiver to help you Bring It. Each is made to fit a specific vehicle, providing easier installation, a better fit and optimal towing capacity. Custom class 1 trailer hitches are available for a variety of smaller vehicle types, including the compact car, crossover, minivan and small SUV. This particular class 1 hitch is designed to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Hyundai Sonata (to verify vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). Tested in accordance with SAE J684, it offers a weight carrying capacity of 2,000 lbs. GTW and 200 lbs. TW. It is equipped with 1-1/4" receiver tube opening to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch mount. This class 1 hitch also comes with all necessary mounting hardware. With its lightweight design and smaller receiver tube size, a class 1 hitch is especially useful for adding cargo space with a hitch-mounted bike rack or cargo carrier. They can also typically be used to tow small trailers such as a utility trailer, kayak trailer or teardrop camper (never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component; i.e. the vehicle, hitch, trailer, etc). Though CURT class 1 trailer hitches are only intended for light-duty towing, we apply the same principles of quality as we do to the rest of our rear mount hitches. Each class 1 hitch is made with hands-on engineering, high-strength steel and precise welding. We use a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat, inside and out, and durable black powder coat to provide a lasting defense against rust, chips and UV rays.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Hyundai Sonata (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Limited Lifetime (One-year finish, one-year parts)
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2020 - 2023 | Hyundai Sonata | Excluding N Line |
The Curt 56461 is a powered converter lead designed to convert vehicle taillight signals for trailer use. It interfaces with your vehicle's existing taillight wiring connectors and provides converted signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and taillight) through a 4-flat connector for trailer connection. The system includes a black converter box that mounts inside the trunk and routes power from the vehicle battery.
The Curt 56461 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual states it is for use on passenger cars and shows wiring locations P1 through P7 for typical passenger car taillight and bumper areas. For specific vehicle compatibility, consult the vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer.
No. The manual explicitly states: 'This converter system is to be used only on 12 volt negative ground systems.' Do not install on positive ground vehicles.
The following tools are required: panel trim removal tool, cutting tool, large flathead screwdriver, wire crimper, wire stripper, and electrical tape. The manual notes that proper tools will improve the quality of installation and reduce the time required.
The kit includes: a black converter box, yellow wire connector for driver side taillight, green wire connector for passenger side taillight, white ground wire with ring terminal, black power wire, provided double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing wires, a ground screw, a 4-flat dust cover, and a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse (to be installed after all other steps are complete).
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle's battery in the engine compartment on the driver side and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. The battery must remain disconnected until Step 9, when you reconnect the negative terminal after all wiring is complete.
The manual rates the installation difficulty as 'Easy'. However, the manual notes that installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle, and proper tools and equipment.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal and secure it away from the battery. (2) Open the trunk and remove the floor covering to expose the spare tire. (3) Remove the two fasteners in the trunk threshold using a flathead screwdriver. (4) Loosen push fasteners in the trunk threshold and lift off the threaded bolt. (5) Loosen push fasteners in the side wall (two on each side) and pull back the felt liner to expose the taillight electrical harness. (6) Separate the driver side taillight connectors and insert the yellow wire connector between them. (7) Mount the black converter box inside the trunk using double-sided tape and secure the white ground wire to a grounding point. (8) Route the green wire to the passenger side and connect it to the passenger side taillight connectors. (9) Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery. (10) Reinstall all removed items and reconnect the negative battery terminal. (11) Install the 4-flat dust cover and test the system.
The converter connects to the vehicle's existing taillight wiring connectors at two locations: (1) Driver side (P3): Pull back the sidewall panels to locate the taillight wiring connectors. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully without damaging the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors, ensuring they are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. (2) Passenger side (P4): Route the green wire along the back of the trunk below the threshold to the passenger side. Locate the taillight wiring connectors, separate them, and insert the custom wiring end with the green wire between them, ensuring full insertion with locking tabs in place.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The area should be clean and flat to ensure proper adhesion.
Locate a grounding point near the converter box, such as an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it. Secure the white ground wire with its ring terminal to the existing fastener or use the provided ground screw. The manual cautions to check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Drilling may be required only if no suitable existing grounding point is available near the converter box location. If drilling is necessary, you must drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole for the ground screw. Before drilling, you must check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area must be cleaned of rust, dirt, and paint using an abrasive pad or paper.
The converter uses the following wire colors: Yellow = Left turn signal, Green = Right turn signal, Red = Brake signal, Brown = Taillight (running lights). The yellow and green wires connect to the vehicle's taillight connectors at the driver and passenger sides respectively. The red brake wire must be grounded if the converter is used as a powered module for a two-wire system. The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal.
Route the 12 GA (or larger) black power wire from the converter to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Connect the ring terminal of the black power wire to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a maximum 10-amp fuse. A fuse holder with a 10-amp fuse is provided. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding the 10-amp maximum can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Signal circuits (left and right turn): 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Follow these safety precautions: (1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the power wire and keep it secured away from the battery during installation. (2) Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. (3) When routing the black power wire, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. (4) When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. (5) Do not exceed the product rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits) or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. (6) Ensure the battery connection is fuse-protected with a maximum 10-amp fuse.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. The manual states: 'Once 12 volt power wire is connected to the harness verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester or a functioning trailer.'
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent electrical issues.
The Curt 56461 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Verify your vehicle has a negative ground system and consult your vehicle owner's manual or contact the manufacturer for specific model compatibility.
You will need: panel trim removal tool, cutting tool, large flathead screwdriver, wire crimper, wire stripper, and electrical tape.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep it secured away from the battery. Reconnect it only after all wiring is complete.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete. Exceeding 10 amps can cause warranty loss, overheating, and fire.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Verify the following: (1) Ensure the negative battery terminal is properly reconnected. (2) Check that the 10-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder and is not blown. (3) Verify that the yellow and green wire connectors are fully inserted into the vehicle's taillight connectors with locking tabs securely in place. (4) Check that the white ground wire is properly secured to a clean grounding point free from rust, dirt, and paint. (5) Ensure the black power wire is properly connected to the vehicle battery positive terminal with a ring terminal. (6) Test the system using a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer. If the system still does not function, consult the vehicle manufacturer or a qualified technician.
The converter box is mounted using the provided double-sided tape on a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight. If the tape is not holding: (1) Ensure the mounting surface is clean, dry, and free from dust or debris. (2) Press the converter box firmly onto the surface for several seconds to ensure good adhesion. (3) If the tape fails to hold, consider using an alternative mounting method such as a small bracket or additional adhesive, provided it does not interfere with vehicle operation or safety.
The manual does not specify the vehicle make, model, or year. Contact CURT Product Support at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com for fitment confirmation before purchase.
The CURT 11673 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
You will need: ratchet, 3/4" socket, 6" socket extension, 10mm socket, 12mm socket, torque wrench, four 1/2" fishwire tools (included), and flathead screwdriver. A 5/8" open-end wrench and pry bar are optional for exhaust hanger removal if you do not have exhaust hanger removal pliers.
The manual rates installation difficulty as 'Easy' based on time and effort involved, but difficulty may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and proper tools. The manual does not state whether professional installation is required or recommended.
Three components must be removed: (1) driver-side trim panel (secured by two 10mm flange nuts and three pop rivets); (2) exhaust hangers; and (3) passenger-side heat shield (secured by three 10mm flange nuts). The trim panel and heat shield hardware should be returned to the owner. The exhaust must be supported before removing its flange nuts.
Yes. You must support the exhaust before removing the two 12mm flange nuts on the passenger side (Step 2). After hitch installation, the exhaust is raised back into position and the flange nuts and rubber isolators are reinstalled (Step 6).
The fishwire tool (four included) is used to guide hardware through the frame rail without losing bolts or spacers inside the rail. Insert the coiled end of the fishwire through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole. Pass the coiled end through the square-hole spacer and thread the carriage bolt into the coil. Kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt. Pull the fishwire, spacer, and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole. Use the fishwire to guide the hitch during mounting. Remove the fishwire before final tightening.
If exhaust hanger removal pliers are not available, use a 5/8" open-end wrench and pry bar. Slide the wrench up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod. Place the flat edge of the pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or hanger rod. Rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the rubber isolator. Using lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and rubber isolator helps removal.
The kit includes: (1) four square-hole spacers (1/4" × 1" × 3"), (2) four carriage bolts (1/2"-13 × 1-1/2", grade 8), (3) four flange nuts (1/2"-13), and (4) four fishwire tools (1/2"). Additional conical-toothed washers and hex nuts are required for final assembly but are not listed in the parts list; confirm these are included or obtain separately.
All 1/2" hardware (carriage bolts) must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs using a torque wrench (Step 6). This is performed after the conical-toothed washers and hex nuts are installed and the hitch is raised into final position.
The tooth side of the washer must face toward the trailer hitch. Install the conical-toothed washers and hex nuts onto the carriage bolts before final torquing.
1. Remove driver-side trim panel (10mm flange nuts and pop rivets). 2. Remove exhaust hangers and lower exhaust (support it first). 3. Remove passenger-side heat shield (10mm flange nuts). 4. On driver side, use fishwire to insert square-hole spacers and carriage bolts through the frame access hole; repeat on passenger side. 5. Raise hitch into position, align holes on both frame rails, remove fishwire, install conical-toothed washers (tooth side toward hitch) and hex nuts. 6. Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs. 7. Raise exhaust back into position and reinstall flange nuts and rubber isolators.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. Support the exhaust before removing its flange nuts to prevent it from falling. Use proper tools and follow all torque specifications to prevent damage to the product or vehicle. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the installed hitch.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify the inspection interval; contact CURT Product Support at 877.287.8634 for recommended maintenance schedules.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the instruction manual, helpful videos, guides, and additional resources. You can also contact CURT Product Support at 877.287.8634 for assistance.
Visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys to register your purchase, get copies of product warranties, or provide feedback. CURT stands behind its products with industry-leading warranties.
The manual does not mention drilling. The hitch uses existing frame rail holes and access holes for mounting. Confirm with CURT Product Support at 877.287.8634 if drilling is required for your specific vehicle.
The manual does not state whether factory fasteners are reused. The trim panel and heat shield hardware removed during installation are returned to the owner. The exhaust hanger rubber isolators are reinstalled. Contact CURT Product Support at 877.287.8634 for clarification on reuse of factory fasteners.
Total for 4 items:
$484.56$628.48
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