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2025 - 2026 Kia Carnival
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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2025 - 2026 Kia Carnival. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Kia Carnival (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 4,000 lbs. GTW and 665 lbs. TW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Kia Sorento (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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Call 888-634-9494One-year limited
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2025 - 2026 | Kia Carnival | — |
The CURT 13478 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 4,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 600 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, years, cab styles or bed lengths the CURT 13478 is designed for. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 or check curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle before purchasing.
Required tools: paint marker, 6" socket extension, exhaust hanger removal tool, torque wrench, ratchet, tape measure, shears, trim panel pry tool, 3/4" socket, and 5/8" open-end wrench. A stand to support the exhaust is also required. For a full tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The kit includes 6 hex bolts (M12-1.25 x 40mm, CL8.8) and 6 conical-toothed washers (1/2"). The vehicle must have existing weldnuts on both driver- and passenger-side frame rails.
Yes. In Step 1, remove the plastic cover on the driver side by removing six plastic clips. Set the cover and five clips aside for reinstallation later. Return one clip to the vehicle owner. The cover will be trimmed in Step 4 and reinstalled in Step 6.
Yes. In Step 2, lower the exhaust by removing the two rearmost rubber isolators from the exhaust hanger rods. Use a stand to support the exhaust and prevent damage. The exhaust will be reinstalled in Step 6 after the hitch is mounted.
Use an exhaust hanger removal tool if available. If not, use a 5/8" open-end wrench: slide it up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod. Place the flat edge of a pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or rod, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the isolator. Using lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and isolator helps removal.
Spray lubricant or compressed air into the weldnut holes to remove debris. For heavy debris, use a wire brush. Take care not to damage the threads.
1. Remove the plastic cover and six plastic clips (Step 1). 2. Lower the exhaust by removing two rubber isolators and support with a stand (Step 2). 3. Raise the hitch into position, sliding the passenger side over the exhaust first, and align three holes on each side with weldnuts (Step 3). 4. Trim the plastic cover to dimensions shown (Step 4). 5. Inspect hitch and bumper fascia clearance; trim bumper fascia if needed (Step 5). 6. Reinstall the plastic cover and exhaust (Step 6).
In Step 3, raise the hitch into position by sliding the passenger side of the hitch over the exhaust first. Align the three holes in the hitch with the three weldnuts in the bottom of both driver- and passenger-side frame rails. Loosely install three hex bolts and three conical washers on each side before torquing.
Torque all M12 fasteners to 60 ft-lbs. Install the bolts and washers loosely first, then torque to specification after alignment.
The hex bolts are M12-1.25 x 40mm, Class 8.8. Six bolts are included, three for each side of the hitch.
The conical-toothed washers are 1/2" in size. Six washers are included, three for each side of the hitch.
The conical-toothed washer should be placed between the hex bolt and the hitch side plate, with the toothed side facing the hitch to grip and prevent loosening.
No drilling is required. The hitch aligns with three existing weldnuts on each side of the vehicle frame rails. However, the plastic cover must be trimmed to dimensions shown in Step 4, and the bumper fascia tab may need trimming for clearance in Step 5.
Trim the plastic cover to the following dimensions: 10-3/8" width, 6-3/4" height, 4" depth, and 1-3/4" at the bottom section. Use shears to cut the cover as shown in Step 4.
Trim the bumper fascia tab only if needed for clearance. In Step 5, inspect the hitch and the bumper fascia tab on the passenger side near the exhaust. If additional clearance is needed between the hitch and bumper fascia tab, trim the fascia tab as needed.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Use a stand to support the exhaust when it is lowered to prevent damage. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The CURT 13478 is rated for 4,000 lbs GTW and 600 lbs tongue weight, but your vehicle's capacity may be lower.
In Step 5, inspect the hitch and the bumper fascia tab on the passenger side near the exhaust to ensure adequate clearance. Trim the bumper fascia tab if needed. After installation, perform periodic inspections to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify the exact interval; consult your vehicle owner's manual or contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 for recommended inspection frequency.
The manual specifies that all M12 fasteners should be torqued to 60 ft-lbs during installation and that periodic inspection should ensure all mounting hardware remains tight. However, the manual does not specify a retorque interval. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 for retorque recommendations.
Curt 56530 is designed for SUVs and Vans. The manual does not list specific vehicle models or years. Contact Curt or check a fitment database with your vehicle's year, make and model to confirm compatibility.
Curt 56530 is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only. Do not use on positive ground or 24-volt systems.
Required tools: ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, panel trim removal tool, flathead screwdriver, wire crimper, wire stripper, electrical tape, cutting tool, and fish wire (or equivalent such as a cut-up wire hanger or stiff wire). Proper tools improve installation quality and reduce time.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in the engine compartment on the driver side before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. Reconnect it after all other steps are complete.
Drilling may be required. You must locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole if no existing fastener is available. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Use 12 GA (12-gauge) wire or larger to route from the vehicle battery to the converter. Route the black power wire to the positive battery terminal (+) using a ring terminal connection.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Curt 56530 is a wiring converter system for SUVs and Vans that integrates with the vehicle's taillight wiring to provide trailer lighting control. It includes a powered converter module that connects to the vehicle battery and routes signal wires (left turn, right turn, brake, taillight) to a 4-flat trailer connector.
No. Curt 56530 is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only. Do not attempt to use it on positive ground or 24-volt systems, as this will damage the converter and create a safety hazard.
After disconnecting the negative battery terminal from the driver side of the engine compartment, fasten the wire down and away from the battery. Keep it secured in this position throughout the entire installation process to prevent accidental reconnection or contact with the positive terminal.
Open the rear hatch and locate the taillight fastener covers. Use a panel trim removal tool to open the covers. Using a 10mm socket, remove the two taillight bolts. Pull the taillight straight back out of the vehicle. Locate the taillight housing with the vehicle taillight wiring connectors and separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Repeat this process on both sides of the vehicle.
Fish wiring is a technique to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. Route a fish wire (which can be a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string) down between the bumper cover in the rear opening and the vehicle body. Insert the fish wire through the blind hole and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull it back up. If the harness gets hung up, push back down, wiggle it around or twist the wire to loosen it. Make sure the fish wire is long enough to stick out on the other side.
Starting on the driver side, locate the housing with the yellow wire on the custom wiring harness. From under the vehicle bumper, attach the harness to the fish wire and pull it up to the taillight cavity. Insert the custom wiring end with the yellow wire between the separated taillight connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Set the taillight inside the taillight cavity but do not secure it in place yet. Repeat this process on the passenger side using the green wire on the harness.
Route the housing with the green wire above the bumper. Secure it with zip ties along the bumper as needed to keep it in place and protect it from damage.
Locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the frame of the vehicle. If no existing fastener is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint. Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape or zip ties. The converter should be mounted in a location where it is secure and protected from damage.
Route a 12 GA (12-gauge) wire or larger from the vehicle battery to the converter, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use a ring terminal to connect the black power wire to the positive battery (+) terminal. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Install a fuse holder with a 10-amp maximum fuse after all other steps are complete. Disconnect the negative battery cable before wiring the power wire.
Green = Right turn; Red = Brake; Yellow = Left turn; Brown = Taillight. These colors correspond to the standard trailer lighting functions and connect to the vehicle's taillight wiring through the custom harness.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. When in use, route the 4-flat with the center of the vehicle and out of the hatch, staying clear of the hatch latching mechanism.
Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically noted with red covers or a red '+' symbol). Doing so can cause a ground short, resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks. Always keep tools and wires away from the positive terminal during installation.
Exceeding the 10-amp maximum fuse rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Always use a 10-amp maximum fuse and do not attempt to use a higher-rated fuse. Additionally, do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester or a functioning trailer. This confirms that all signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake, taillight) are working correctly before using the system.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the system regularly, especially before towing, to maintain safe operation. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface. This includes wiring, fuel lines, brake lines and other components that could be damaged if drilled through. Checking first will avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury.
After all installation steps are complete: (1) Reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected at the beginning. (2) Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. (3) Reinstall all items removed during installation. (4) Test the system with a test light, 4-flat tester or functioning trailer to verify proper operation.
No. After inserting the custom wiring end between the separated connectors and ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place, set the taillight inside the taillight cavity but do not secure it in place yet. Complete the remaining installation steps before final assembly.
If the fish wire or harness gets hung up on something during routing, try the following: (1) Push back down on the wire. (2) Wiggle the wire around to loosen it. (3) Twist the wire to loosen it from what it is hung up on. If these steps do not work, you may need to reposition the fish wire entry point or route it through a different path.
Verify the following: (1) The negative battery terminal is reconnected. (2) The 10-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder. (3) All wire connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. (4) The white ground wire is securely attached to a clean, rust-free ground point. (5) The black power wire is connected to the positive battery terminal with a ring terminal. (6) All wires are routed correctly and not pinched or damaged. Test the system with a test light, 4-flat tester or functioning trailer. If the system still does not function, check for loose connections or damaged wires.
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