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| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 6,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 10,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 1,000 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 600 LB |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | Blank |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2021 - 2024 | Ford Bronco | Excluding factory receiver |
The 21-24 Ford Bronco Excluding factory receiver 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW785 (Part #HBCW785) fits 2021-2024 Ford Bronco models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 21-24 Ford Bronco Excluding factory receiver 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW785 (Part #HBCW785) is designed to fit the 2021-2024 Ford Bronco.
The 21-24 Ford Bronco Excluding factory receiver 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW785 (Part #HBCW785) fits the following vehicles: 2021-2024 Ford Bronco. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 21-24 Ford Bronco Excluding factory receiver 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW785 (Part #HBCW785) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part 13310 fits 1973–1997 Ford F-Series trucks, with one exception: it does not fit 1973–1979 F-250 crew cab models. If your truck is a regular cab, supercab, or 1980 or later F-250, this hitch is compatible.
Yes, the Curt 13310 is compatible with 1978–1997 Ford Bronco Full Size models.
Yes, the Curt 13310 fits 1967–2002 Dodge Full Size trucks.
On 1973–1997 Ford F-Series trucks (except 73–79 crew cab), the spare tire must be lowered before installation. The installation notes specify "LOWER SPARE TIRE" as part of the setup. After installation is complete, the spare tire can be repositioned if necessary.
On 1978–1997 Ford Bronco Full Size models, the bumper may interfere with the hitch. If it does, the bumper bolts can be loosened and the bumper raised to increase clearance. After adjustment, re-tighten the bolts.
On 1967–2002 Dodge Full Size trucks, the bumper may interfere with the receiver hitch. If interference occurs, loosen the bumper brackets and reposition the bumper upward, then re-tighten the brackets.
The kit includes: 6× 1/2–13 UNC carriage bolts, 1–3/4″ length, grade 8 (part 10-10272); 8× 0.250 × 1.50 × 2.00″ square hole spacers (part CM-SP1); and 6× 1/2–13 UNC serrated flange nuts, grade 8 (part 20-00062).
No, all required fasteners are included: 6 carriage bolts, 8 spacers, and 6 flange nuts. The spacers are essential—the manual specifies that a spacer must be placed at the large middle mounting hole on both sides of the hitch.
A torque wrench is required to tighten all fasteners to 110 ft-lbs. Drilling equipment is also needed: a drill with bits for 1/8″ pilot holes, 3/8″ intermediate holes, and 1/2″ final holes (on F-Series and Bronco). For Dodge trucks, 1/2″ holes are drilled directly. A thin wire is needed for the Bronco installation to fishwire the forward bolts through the frame.
The manual does not mention battery disconnection. No electrical work is involved in this installation.
The manual does not require bumper removal for F-Series installation. However, on Ford Bronco and Dodge trucks, bumper bolts may need to be loosened and the bumper raised to provide clearance for the hitch.
Yes, drilling is required. The manual specifies the step method: first drill a 1/8″ pilot hole, then a 3/8″ hole, and finally a 1/2″ hole. Six 1/2″ mounting holes must be drilled. On some models, the hitch's 9/16″ slots may align with existing 1/4″ holes in the frame; if so, drill these out to 1/2″.
Yes, six 1/2″ holes must be drilled. The manual notes to take extra care around the gas tank during drilling.
Drilling may be required. The manual states that mounting locations may need to be drilled on some vehicles. The Dodge installation uses existing 1/2″ round holes at the rear of the frame for the first and third bolts, then the hitch is used as a template to drill the four remaining holes to 1/2″ diameter.
The step method involves three stages: (1) drill a 1/8″ pilot hole, (2) drill a 3/8″ hole, and (3) finish with a 1/2″ hole. This method is used for all six mounting holes on F-Series trucks.
The final hole size is 1/2″ for all vehicles. On F-Series and Bronco, use the step method (1/8″ pilot, then 3/8″, then 1/2″). On Dodge, existing 1/2″ round holes are used where available, and additional 1/2″ holes are drilled as needed.
Yes, the manual states: "TAKE EXTRA CARE AROUND THE GAS TANK." Additionally, because of tight clearance with the gas tank, the two forward holes on each side must be fishwired (bolts wrapped with thin wire and fed through the square hole spacer using the access hole in the crossmember next to the frame).
All fasteners must be tightened to 110 ft-lbs using a torque wrench. This applies to all mounting bolts on all vehicle types.
The carriage bolts are 1/2–13 UNC, 1–3/4″ long, grade 8 (part 10-10272). Six bolts are included.
The spacers are 0.250 × 1.50 × 2.00″ square hole spacers (part CM-SP1). Eight spacers are included. A spacer must be placed at the large middle mounting hole on both sides of the hitch.
The manual does not provide specific towing capacity values. The parts list shows blank fields for gross load capacity (weight carrying and weight distribution). The manual emphasizes: "DO NOT EXCEED VEHICLE MANUFACTURER'S RECOMMENDED TOWING CAPACITY." Contact Curt Manufacturing technical support at 1-877-287-8634 for capacity information.
After installation, periodically check that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual states: "PERIODICALLY CHECK THIS RECEIVER HITCH TO ENSURE THAT ALL FASTENERS ARE TIGHT AND THAT ALL STRUCTURAL COMPONENTS ARE SOUND."
The manual does not specify a checking interval. It states that you should periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and structural components are sound. No retorque interval is provided.
The Curt 13310 fits 1973–1997 Ford F-Series (except 73–79 crew cab), 1978–1997 Ford Bronco Full Size, and 1967–2002 Dodge Full Size trucks. On F-Series, the spare tire must be lowered. On Bronco and Dodge, the bumper may need repositioning.
The kit includes 6 carriage bolts, 8 spacers, and 6 flange nuts—no additional fasteners needed. A torque wrench is required to tighten all bolts to 110 ft-lbs.
Yes. On Ford F-Series and Bronco, use the step method: 1/8″ pilot hole, then 3/8″, then 1/2″ final holes. On Dodge, existing 1/2″ holes are used where available, and additional 1/2″ holes are drilled as needed. Extra care is required around the gas tank on Bronco.
Tighten all fasteners to 110 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
The manual does not specify towing capacity. Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Contact Curt Manufacturing at 1-877-287-8634 for capacity details.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Part 56471 is a powered converter lead and custom wiring harness manufactured by Curt for SUVs and vans. It converts your vehicle's taillight signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and running lights) to a 4-flat trailer connector, allowing you to tow a trailer with functioning lights. The system includes a black converter box that processes the signals and a wiring harness with yellow, green, white, and black wires that connect to your vehicle's existing taillight circuits.
Part 56471 is designed for SUVs and vans (designated 'S' category). The manual does not list specific vehicle makes, models, or years. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your exact vehicle, as installation requires access to taillight trim, tailgate, and frame-mounted points that may vary by model.
Yes. Part 56471 is designed exclusively for 12-volt negative ground systems. Do not use it on any other electrical system configuration. If you are unsure of your vehicle's electrical system, consult your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer.
You will need: a ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, Phillips screwdriver, small flathead screwdriver, and a panel trim removal tool. The small flathead screwdriver helps back out the push fastener screws on the taillight trim. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The kit includes: a black converter box, custom wiring harness with yellow, green, white, and black wires, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, cable ties (zip ties) for securing wires, a ground screw, a ring terminal for the white ground wire, a 4-flat dust cover, and a 10-amp fuse holder with fuse. The 4-flat connector mounts near the receiver tube.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other steps are complete (Step 11).
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal (Step 1). 2. Remove four bolts from taillight trim using a 10mm socket (Step 2). 3. Remove eight push fastener screws from taillight trim using a Phillips screwdriver (Step 3). 4. Remove taillight trim by pulling straight out from bottom to top (Step 4). 5. Separate taillight wiring connectors from housing (Step 5). 6. Route yellow wire and connect to driver-side taillight (Step 6). 7. Route green wire and connect to passenger-side taillight (Step 7). 8. Mount converter box using double-sided tape and secure wires with cable ties (Step 8). 9. Ground the white wire to frame (Step 9). 10. Route and mount the 4-flat connector (Step 10). 11. Reinstall all removed items and reconnect battery (Step 11).
Open the tailgate all the way and raise the glass window in the open position. Using a 10mm socket, remove the four bolts (two on each side) securing the taillight trim. Then use a Phillips screwdriver to remove eight push fastener screws (four on each side). You may need a small flathead screwdriver to help back out the push fasteners; adding pressure to the backside of the screw will help. Finally, remove the taillight trim straight out, starting at the bottom and working your way up. Repeat on the other side.
Locate the vehicle's taillight wiring connectors (they will be similar to the new custom wiring connectors). Carefully separate the connectors from the taillight housing without damaging the locking tabs. On the driver side, locate the custom wiring end with the yellow wire. Route the yellow wire behind the taillight wiring and wrap it around the rear bumper so the connectors are above the bumper and the black converter box is below. Insert the custom wiring end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors, ensuring they are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Route the wires up and behind the rear door seals. Repeat this process on the passenger side using the wire with the green wire.
Route the yellow wire (driver side) behind the taillight wiring and wrap it around the rear bumper with the connectors above the bumper and the converter box below. Route the green wire (passenger side) over the driver-side frame rail and along the bumper, then over the passenger-side frame rail. Use zip ties as needed to secure wires. Route the 4-flat connector along the rear bumper and zip tie as needed. Mount the 4-flat close to the receiver tube. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Mount the black converter box on the top side of the frame using the provided double-sided tape. The converter should be positioned below the rear bumper (as the yellow and green wires wrap around the bumper with connectors above and the box below). Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Drilling is optional. You must ground the white ground wire to the vehicle frame. If an existing screw or bolt is available on the frame, use that. If not, you may drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it.
Signal circuits (left turn and right turn): 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The taillight trim is secured by four bolts (two on each side) that are removed using a 10mm socket, and eight push fastener screws (four on each side) that are removed using a Phillips screwdriver. The manual does not specify bolt length or grade. Reuse the original fasteners when reinstalling the trim.
If you need to drill a grounding point for the white ground wire, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it. Secure the white ground wire ring terminal using the provided ground screw or an existing fastener.
Yellow wire = Left turn signal. Green wire = Right turn signal. Red wire = Brake signal. Brown wire = Tail/Running lights. White wire = Ground. Black wire = Power (connects to positive battery terminal). These colors match the 4-flat trailer connector standard.
Route the 12 GA black power wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use a ring terminal to connect the black wire to the positive (+) battery terminal. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges.
The power wire must be 12 GA (12 gauge) or larger. It connects from the converter to the positive battery terminal using a ring terminal and is protected by a 10-amp maximum fuse.
Use a 10-amp maximum fuse. The fuse holder is included in the kit. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Do not exceed 10 amps, as exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When routing the power wire, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or use silicone to protect it from sharp edges. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, as this can cause overheating and potential fire.
Once the custom wiring harness is installed, verify that it is functioning by attaching the 4-flat connector to any vehicle with functioning trailer lights. The taillights on the tow vehicle should function along with the taillights on the towing vehicle. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. The manual does not specify inspection intervals. Install and maintain the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion of the connector.
Drilling is optional. You may use an existing frame fastener to ground the white wire, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole if needed. Check for hidden items before drilling.
Use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install it after all other steps are complete. Do not exceed 10 amps.
Use 12 GA (12 gauge) wire or larger for the power connection to the positive battery terminal.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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