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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2022 - 2024 | Ford Maverick | Excluding factory receiver |
Yes, the 22-24 Ford Maverick Excluding factory receiver 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW959 (Part #HBCW959) is designed to fit the 2022-2024 Ford Maverick.
The 22-24 Ford Maverick Excluding factory receiver 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW959 (Part #HBCW959) fits 2022-2024 Ford Maverick models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 22-24 Ford Maverick Excluding factory receiver 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW959 (Part #HBCW959) fits the following vehicles: 2022-2024 Ford Maverick. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 22-24 Ford Maverick Excluding factory receiver 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW959 (Part #HBCW959) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, the CURT 11405 Class II receiver hitch is designed for 2015-Present Ford Mustang Coupe and Convertible models. It fits both body styles. Verify your vehicle year and model match before purchasing.
Yes, the CURT 11405 is designed for both Mustang Coupe and Convertible models. Convertible installation requires additional steps: you must temporarily remove the lower support braces (a V-shaped structure under the spare tire well and in front of the rear wheels) before installing the hitch, then reinstall them afterward.
The CURT 11405 has a maximum trailer weight capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight capacity of 200 lbs minimum. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The CURT 11405 is designed for use with ball mount #45521. Euro ball mounts #45571 (1 7/8" ball) and #45572 (2" ball) are also available as options.
Required tools are: 13mm socket (for exhaust bolts), 11/16" socket (for hitch fasteners), socket extension (6"), ratchet, torque wrench, and pry bar. A 15mm socket is also needed for Convertible models to remove support braces. Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
No, drilling is not required. The CURT 11405 uses existing holes in the frame rails and access holes in the vehicle for mounting.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected. Contact CURT Technical Support at 877.287.8634 for clarification on this step.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and notes that using proper tools will greatly improve installation quality and reduce time required.
Installation time varies by experience level. Novice installers should allow approximately 60 minutes, while professional installers typically complete the installation in 30 minutes.
Yes. The first installation step is to lower the exhaust by removing 6 M8 bolts from the hanger brackets using a 13mm socket. After the hitch is installed and secured, the exhaust is raised back into position and the hanger brackets are reinstalled.
The CURT 11405 uses existing holes in both the driver side and passenger side frame rails, plus access holes on both sides. The installation diagram on page 2 shows the location of these holes. The fishwire technique is used to feed the mounting bolts through these holes.
The fishwire technique uses 7/16" fishwire to pull the mounting bolts through the frame rail holes. In step 3, you thread 8 carriage bolts and 8 spacers through the access holes. In step 4, you raise the hitch into position and feed the fishwire ends through the hitch frame bracket mounting holes, then use the fishwires to pull the bolts through the frame rail holes. The bolts are then secured with flange nuts.
All 7/16" hardware (carriage bolts and flange nuts) must be torqued to 59 lb-ft. Use a torque wrench to achieve this specification.
The hitch uses eight 7/16-14 UNC carriage bolts, 1-1/4" long, Grade 8, zinc-plated (part number 10-10281). These are secured with eight 7/16-14 UNC serrated flange nuts, Grade 8, zinc-plated (part number 20-00103).
Eight square hole spacers (part number CM-SP2), measuring 0.250" x 0.88" x 2.25", are included. These spacers are threaded onto the carriage bolts during the fishwire step of installation.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Refer to the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information on these straps.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This maintenance is important for safe operation.
The manual states that if you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, you should contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. The installation is rated as moderate difficulty for coupes and moderate to challenging for convertibles.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Warranty is voided by alteration, misuse, or improper installation.
Yes, the CURT 11405 is designed for 2015-Present Ford Mustang Coupe and Convertible models. Convertible installation requires temporarily removing and reinstalling lower support braces.
You need a 13mm socket, 11/16" socket, 6" socket extension, ratchet, torque wrench, pry bar, and safety glasses. Convertible models also require a 15mm socket.
All 7/16" hardware must be torqued to 59 lb-ft using a torque wrench.
Wear safety glasses at all times. If hesitant, contact an authorized CURT installer. Non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps.
Periodically check all fasteners to ensure they are tight and all structural components are sound.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Part 56088 is a Curt Manufacturing T-connector trailer wiring harness system designed for Ford Mustang vehicles. It provides a connection point for trailer lighting by tapping into the vehicle's existing taillight wiring. The system includes a T-connector with colour-coded wires (yellow and green for each side), a black converter box, and a white ground wire.
Yes, part 56088 is designed specifically for Ford Mustang vehicles. The manual does not specify model years or generations, so contact Curt Manufacturing or your retailer to confirm fitment for your specific Mustang year and generation.
The kit includes a T-connector with yellow and green wire ends, a black converter box, a white ground wire with eyelet and screw, double-sided tape, and cable ties. You will need a screwdriver and a 3/32" drill bit (if drilling a ground hole). A separate CME-PCL-INS instruction sheet is included for battery power routing.
The manual does not explicitly state whether the battery must be disconnected. However, because the installation involves working with the vehicle's taillight wiring and routing a power wire from the battery, it is strongly recommended to disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning work. Refer to your vehicle's owner manual or consult a professional installer if you are unsure.
Open the trunk and remove the rear scuff panel by removing two plastic fasteners and two plastic wing nuts holding it in place. This will expose the taillight wiring harness on the driver's side.
On the driver's side, locate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness. Carefully separate the connectors without damaging the locking tabs. Insert the T-connector end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on the passenger side using the green wire end of the T-connector.
After connecting the yellow wire end to the driver's side taillight connector, route the green wire end to the passenger side behind the removed scuff panel and connect it to the passenger-side taillight connector using the same method. Secure any loose parts of the T-connector with the cable ties provided.
Drilling is optional. The installation requires a ground wire connection. You may locate an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame to use as a grounding point, or you may drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white ground wire using the eyelet and screw provided in the kit. Before drilling, verify that no miscellaneous items are hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
If you choose to drill a ground hole, drill a 3/32" hole. Secure the white ground wire using the eyelet and screw provided in the kit. Before drilling, verify that no miscellaneous items are hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Adhere the black converter box to the frame of the car using the double-sided tape provided in the kit. Ensure it is positioned securely and in a location where it will not be damaged or interfere with vehicle operation.
Route the black power wire from the battery to the black converter box as shown on the CME-PCL-INS sheet included with the kit. Route the black wire through any rubber grommet in the trunk area if applicable. The CME-PCL-INS sheet provides detailed instructions for this connection.
Before drilling, verify that miscellaneous items are not hidden behind or under any surface where you plan to drill. This is critical to avoid damage to vehicle components and personal injury.
The T-connector has a yellow wire and a green wire. The yellow wire connects to the driver's side taillight wiring, and the green wire connects to the passenger side taillight wiring. The connector also includes a white ground wire.
Part 56088 is designed for Ford Mustang vehicles. Confirm your specific model year with Curt Manufacturing or your retailer.
You need a screwdriver and optionally a 3/32" drill bit (if drilling a ground hole). The kit includes all necessary fasteners, tape, cable ties, and wiring.
No. You must open the trunk and remove the rear scuff panel (held by two plastic fasteners and two plastic wing nuts) to access the taillight wiring harness.
Yes. A separate CME-PCL-INS instruction sheet is included with the kit and shows how to route the black power wire from the battery to the converter box.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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