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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2022 - 2026 Jeep Grand Cherokee Excluding TrailHawk. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Jeep Grand Cherokee and Grand Cherokee L (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 7,500 lbs. GTW and 750 lbs. TW. It is also compatible with a weight distribution hitch for level towing and a rating of 7,500 lbs. WD and 750 lbs. WDTW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Jeep Grand Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee L (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.

CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2022 - 2026 | Jeep Grand Cherokee | Excluding TrailHawk |
The 22 - 24 Jeep Grand Cherokee Excluding TrailHawk Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13525 (Part #CHW-1980) fits the following vehicles: 2022-2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 22 - 24 Jeep Grand Cherokee Excluding TrailHawk Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13525 (Part #CHW-1980) is designed to fit the 2022-2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
The 22 - 24 Jeep Grand Cherokee Excluding TrailHawk Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13525 (Part #CHW-1980) fits 2022-2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 22 - 24 Jeep Grand Cherokee Excluding TrailHawk Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13525 (Part #CHW-1980) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The manual does not specify vehicle makes, models, or model years. Contact CURT at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your vehicle.
Gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity is 7,500 lbs with a tongue weight (TW) of 750 lbs. Weight distribution capacity is 7,500 lbs with a weight distribution tongue weight (WDTW) of 750 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Required tools: 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 13mm socket, 1/2" socket, 3/4" socket, 21mm socket, ratchet, torque wrench, T-30 Torx bit, and flathead screwdriver. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
Yes, the installation difficulty level is rated as Difficult. Installation time and effort vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and proper tools and equipment. The installation requires part removal including bumper cover, wheel well liners, electrical connectors, taillight cover, rear bumper beam, and exhaust hangers.
Torque 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs. Torque 5/16" hardware to 178 in-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening during installation.
Yes. The bumper cover must be removed to access the frame rails and install the hitch side plates. After installation and torquing all hardware, reinstall the bumper cover by reversing the removal steps.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. After installation, perform periodic inspection of the trailer hitch to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. Refer to specified torque specifications (1/2" hardware at 110 ft-lbs, 5/16" hardware at 178 in-lbs) when checking hardware.
The kit includes: 1 trailer hitch, 6 carriage bolts (1/2"), 6 serrated-flange nuts (1/2"), 4 fishwires (1/2"), 2 carriage bolts (5/16"), and 2 flange nuts (5/16"). All fasteners needed for installation are supplied.
Installation requires removal of: bumper cover bolts (4 from bottom), wheel well liner bolts (4 from rear of each liner), wheel trim, electrical connectors at rear of tires, taillight cover, rear bumper beam (2 outside bolts and 1 bottom bolt from each frame rail), and exhaust hangers (2 bolts on L models from outside, 1 bolt on Non-L models from bottom of frame rail). All removed parts are reinstalled after hitch installation.
First, remove four bolts from the bottom of the bumper cover using a 10mm socket. Remove four bolts from the rear of each wheel well liner using an 8mm socket. Gently pull the wheel trim away from the vehicle starting at the bottom and working up, squeezing white clips behind the wheel liner if needed. Remove the newly exposed bolt using a 10mm socket on both sides. Disconnect electrical connectors at the rear of each tire by pulling the tab toward the front and pushing down. Remove the taillight cover by pulling straight rearward. Finally, gently pull the bumper cover away from the vehicle starting at the wheel well and working toward the rear.
L models and Non-L models differ in two ways: (1) Exhaust hanger removal—L models require removing two bolts from each exhaust hanger on the outside of the vehicle; Non-L models require removing one bolt from each exhaust hanger on the bottom of the frame rail. (2) Hitch side plate hole selection—L models use the set of holes farthest from the main body; Non-L models use the set of holes closest to the main body. Both use 13mm sockets for exhaust hangers.
Locate the electrical connectors on each side of the vehicle at the rear of the tire behind the bumper cover. Disconnect by pulling the tab on the vehicle side of the connector toward the front of the vehicle, then push it down. The connectors are disconnected to allow removal of the bumper cover and rear bumper beam.
Removing the taillight is optional but may ease installation on some models. To remove, use a T-30 Torx bit to remove the bolt securing it in place and gently pull the light rearward. Set it aside for reinstallation. At minimum, the taillight cover must be removed by pulling straight rearward.
Remove the rear bumper beam by removing two bolts from the outside and one bolt from the bottom of each frame rail using a 21mm socket. Return the bumper beam and fasteners to the vehicle owner after installation is complete.
Insert the hitch side plates into the end of the frame rails and loosely secure with the supplied 1/2" carriage bolts and serrated-flange nuts by reaching into the end of the frame rail to install the bottom bolts. Use fishwires for the side bolts if required. For L models, use the set of holes farthest from the main body. For Non-L models, use the set of holes closest to the main body. Insert 5/16" carriage bolts into the smaller slots on the bottom of the side plates and reinstall the exhaust using 5/16" serrated-flange nuts.
Fishwires are supplied fastening aids (4 included, 1/2" size). They are used to help install the side bolts of the hitch side plates when reaching into the end of the frame rail is difficult. The manual states to use fishwires "if required," meaning they are optional depending on your vehicle's frame rail configuration and your ability to access the bolts.
The manual instructs to loosely secure all hitch side plate bolts first (Step 9), then torque all hardware in Step 10. Torque 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs and 5/16" hardware to 178 in-lbs. After torquing, reinstall the bumper cover by reversing the removal steps.
After torquing all hitch hardware, reinstall the bumper cover by reversing Steps 1-7 in reverse order. This means: reconnect electrical connectors, reinstall the taillight cover and taillight (if removed), reinstall the rear bumper beam with 21mm bolts, reinstall exhaust hangers with 13mm bolts, reinstall wheel trim, reinstall wheel well liner bolts with 8mm socket, and reinstall bumper cover bottom bolts with 10mm socket.
Yes. When not in use, the hitch can be hidden behind the factory bumper cover.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the instruction manual, helpful videos, guides, and more. For product support, call 877.287.8634. For towing safety information, visit curtmfg.com/understanding-towing. For a tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
To register your purchase, get copies of product warranties, or provide feedback, visit warranty.curtmfg.com/surveys. CURT stands behind its products with industry-leading warranties.
The Curt 56473 is a custom wiring harness for SUVs and vans that provides trailer lighting connections. It integrates with the vehicle's factory taillight wiring to supply power for trailer signal circuits (3.0 amps per side), tail/running circuits (6.0 amps total), and brake signals. The harness includes a powered converter module that connects to the vehicle battery and outputs a 4-flat connector for trailer use.
The Curt 56473 is designed for SUVs and vans. The manual does not specify which models, years, or configurations are compatible. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle before purchasing.
Yes. The powered converter lead instruction sheet explicitly states: 'This converter system is to be used only on 12 volt negative ground systems.' If your vehicle uses a different electrical system, this product is not compatible.
The following tools are required: ratchet, Torx bit T-27, socket extension, and panel trim removal tool. A fishwire (which can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string) is also needed to route the harness through blind holes. A drill with a 3/32" bit may be needed if a grounding point must be created.
The manual shows a hardware photo but does not itemize all included components. Based on the instructions, the kit includes: custom wiring harness with green and yellow wire housings, white ground wire with ring terminal, black power wire, provided ground screw, cable ties, 4-flat dust cover, and double-sided tape for converter mounting. A fuse holder with 10-amp fuse is also mentioned. Refer to the product packaging or contact Curt Manufacturing for a complete parts list.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. The negative battery must remain disconnected until after all wiring steps are complete and you are ready to test the system.
Yes. Steps 2 and 3 require removal of both taillight trim panels and taillights. Use a panel trim removal tool to remove the push fastener and taillight cover. Then use a T-27 Torx bit to remove the screw securing the taillight. Remove the taillight at a 45° angle from the vehicle, as alignment tabs only allow removal in this direction. Locate and separate the taillight wiring connectors, taking care not to damage the locking tabs.
A fishwire is a tool used to push or pull electrical wire through a blind hole. It can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string. To use it: (1) ensure the fishwire is long enough to stick out on the other side of the hole, (2) insert it through the blind hole and locate it on the other side, (3) use tape to secure the harness to the fishwire, and (4) pull the harness back up. If the harness gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. The manual specifies routing the fishwire down between the bumper cover in the further rear opening and the vehicle body.
After removing the taillights (Steps 2-3), locate the vehicle's factory taillight wiring connectors. The connectors will be similar to those on the custom wiring product. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Then, starting on the passenger side, locate the housing with the green wire on the custom harness. Use a fishwire to pull the harness up from under the vehicle bumper to the taillight cavity. Attach the custom wiring harness to the vehicle factory wiring and secure to the taillight. Set the taillight inside the cavity but do not fully install at this time. Repeat on the driver side with the yellow wire housing.
Route the housing with the yellow wire above the bumper mount and along the bumper to the driver side. Zip tie as needed along the bumper. Route above the driver-side bumper mount. Then repeat the fishwire process (Step 5) to pull this housing up to the taillight cavity on the driver side.
Locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the frame of the vehicle. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint. Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw.
Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the provided 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet.' The wire must be 12 GA or larger. Route it to the positive battery terminal using a ring terminal connection. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Do not connect the fuse until all other steps are complete.
Mount the converter using the provided double-sided tape. The manual does not specify a particular location on the vehicle. Refer to the 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet' diagram or contact Curt Manufacturing for the recommended mounting location for your specific vehicle.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable grounding point (existing screw or bolt on the vehicle frame) is not available, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire connection. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area must be cleaned of rust, dirt, and paint using an abrasive pad or paper.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Green wire: Right turn signal. Yellow wire: Left turn signal. Red wire: Brake signal. Brown wire: Taillight/running light. These colors are used in the custom wiring harness housings and correspond to the standard trailer lighting functions.
The 4-flat connector is the trailer connection point. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk to the trailer. Be sure to stay clear of the trunk's latching mechanism. When not in use, roll up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. A 4-flat dust cover is provided to help prevent corrosion when the connector is not in use.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. The fuse holder with a 10-amp fuse must be installed after all other installation steps are complete. Do not exceed this rating, as exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded. This is a specific requirement for two-wire trailer systems and differs from standard four-wire installations.
Before drilling or routing wires, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When routing the black power wire to the battery, take care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the power wire. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using provided cable ties. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. The manual specifies that all steps must be followed to ensure the product will function properly. After testing, reinstall all items removed during installation and reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion when the connector is not in use. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
The Curt 56473 is designed for SUVs and vans, but the manual does not list specific models or years. Confirm compatibility with your vehicle before purchasing by contacting Curt Manufacturing or checking a fitment database.
Yes, if your vehicle has a 12-volt negative ground electrical system. The converter is designed only for this type of system. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your electrical system type.
You will need a ratchet, T-27 Torx bit, socket extension, panel trim removal tool, and a fishwire (which can be made from wire, rope, or string). A drill with a 3/32" bit may be needed if you must create a grounding point.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep it disconnected until all wiring steps are complete and you are ready to test the system.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. Do not exceed this rating, as it can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. Clean the area of rust, dirt, and paint using an abrasive pad or paper.
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