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2022 - 2026 Mitsubishi Outlander
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Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2022 - 2026 Mitsubishi Outlander. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Mitsubishi Outlander (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 3,500 lbs. GTW and 525 lbs. TW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Mitsubishi Outlander (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2022 - 2026 | Mitsubishi Outlander | — |
The 22 - 24 Mitsubishi Outlander Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13487 (Part #CHW-2469) fits 2022-2024 Mitsubishi Outlander models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 22 - 24 Mitsubishi Outlander Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13487 (Part #CHW-2469) fits the following vehicles: 2022-2024 Mitsubishi Outlander. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 22 - 24 Mitsubishi Outlander Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13487 (Part #CHW-2469) is designed to fit the 2022-2024 Mitsubishi Outlander.
The 22 - 24 Mitsubishi Outlander Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13487 (Part #CHW-2469) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The CURT 13487 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 3,500 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 525 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes. The installation requires lowering of the exhaust. You must remove the three rearmost rubber holders from the exhaust hangers and support the exhaust with a stand to prevent damage. The exhaust is reinstalled after the hitch is positioned.
You will need a ratchet, 19mm socket, torque wrench, and an exhaust removal tool. A 5/8" open end wrench and pry bar can be used as an alternative if an exhaust removal tool is not available. For a complete tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The kit includes 6 hex bolts (M12 - 1.25 x 40mm, Class 8.8) and 6 conical-toothed washers (1/2"). The hitch bolts to existing weld nuts in the vehicle frame rails.
Use a 5/8" open end wrench and a pry bar. Slide the wrench up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod. Place the flat edge of the pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or hanger rod, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the rubber isolator. Using a lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and rubber isolator helps with removal.
The conical-toothed washers must be installed with the toothed side facing the hitch side plate. The washers are placed between the hex bolt and the hitch before fastening into the weld nuts.
To remove debris from the weld nuts, spray lubricant or compressed air into the hole. For heavy debris, use a wire brush. Take care not to damage the threads.
All M12 fasteners must be torqued to 60 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening and prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
No. During Step 2, loosely install all six hex bolts and conical washers into the hitch holes and weld nuts on both sides. Only after the exhaust is reinstalled should you torque all M12 fasteners to 60 ft-lbs.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. This helps prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. When lowering the exhaust, use a stand to support it and prevent any damage. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The manual does not specify vehicle make, model, or year compatibility. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
No. The kit includes all required hardware: 6 hex bolts (M12 - 1.25 x 40mm) and 6 conical-toothed washers. The hitch bolts to existing weld nuts in your vehicle frame.
No drilling is required. The hitch bolts to existing weld nuts in the vehicle frame rails using the included hardware.
Yes. You must remove the three rearmost rubber holders from the exhaust hangers and support the exhaust with a stand. The exhaust is reinstalled after the hitch is positioned.
Torque all M12 fasteners to 60 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
Gross trailer weight capacity is 3,500 lbs with a tongue weight capacity of 525 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The Curt 56467 is an electrical powered converter designed to integrate trailer lighting with your vehicle's existing taillight system. It converts your vehicle's taillight signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and tail lights) to a 4-flat trailer connector. The converter uses a 12-volt battery connection and is rated for 5.0 amps per side on signal circuits and 7.5 amps total on tail/running circuits.
The converter is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only. Do not use it on vehicles with positive ground or 24-volt systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer if you are unsure of your vehicle's electrical system type.
You will need: a ratchet, cutting tool, Phillips screwdriver, drill, fish wire (can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string), and a 3/32" drill bit. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
The kit includes: a black converter box, yellow, green, and white wires, a 4-flat connector with dust cover, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, cable ties (zip ties) for securing wires, a ground screw, a ring terminal for the ground wire, and a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse. The fuse should be installed after all other installation steps are complete.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and secure it away from the battery. Keep it disconnected until you have completed all wiring steps. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete and before installing the fuse.
Open the hatch and use a panel trim removal tool to remove the taillight trim panel. Remove the two Phillips-head screws securing the taillights in place. Carefully remove the taillight straight back and pull out the grommet. The vehicle taillight wiring connectors will be located just behind the grommet. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Repeat this process on both sides of the vehicle.
Fish wire is a tool used to push or pull electrical wire through a blind hole (a hole you cannot see through). It can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope, or string. Insert the fish wire through the blind hole where the taillight was removed and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull back up. If the wire gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. Make sure the fish wire is long enough to stick out on the other side.
Beginning on the driver side, drop a fish wire down inside the box where the taillight was removed. From under the vehicle, attach the yellow wire to the fish wire and pull it up into the taillight opening. Attach the custom wiring harness to the taillight, then re-attach the factory harness to both the taillight and the custom wiring harness. Route the green wire over to the passenger side, zip-tying as needed to the rear bumper. Repeat the same process on the passenger side using the green wire.
Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The manual does not specify an exact location, but it should be mounted in a secure, accessible location away from heat sources and moving parts. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties after mounting.
You may need to drill a hole, depending on your vehicle. First, locate an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame that can serve as a grounding point. If no suitable existing fastener is available, you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint if necessary.
The ground hole must be 3/32" in diameter. This is a pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Drill only if no existing screw or bolt is available to use as a grounding point.
The converter uses the following wire colors: yellow for left turn signal, green for right turn signal, red for brake signal, and brown for tail/running lights. The white wire is the ground wire. These colors correspond to standard trailer lighting conventions.
Route a 12-gauge wire (or larger) from the vehicle battery to the converter, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges when passing through sheet metal. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Connect the black power wire to the positive (+) battery terminal using a ring terminal. The battery connection must be protected by a 10-amp fuse (maximum). Install the fuse after all other steps are complete.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Route the 4-flat along the rear bumper and zip-tie as needed. Mount the 4-flat close to the receiver tube. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
The converter is rated for 5.0 amps per side on signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake) and 7.5 amps total on tail/running circuits. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and secure it away from the battery. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically marked with red covers or a red '+' symbol), as this can cause a ground short, resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks. Keep the negative terminal disconnected until all wiring steps are complete.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the ground hole or when passing the power wire through sheet metal.
Once the custom wiring harness is installed, verify that it is functioning by attaching the 4-flat to any vehicle with functioning trailer lights. The taillights on the tow vehicle should function along with the taillights on the towing vehicle. You can also use a test light to check for proper function.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the 4-flat dust cover regularly to help prevent corrosion.
The Curt 56467 is designed for 12-volt negative ground vehicles only. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm your vehicle's electrical system type. The manual shows installation on a representative vehicle; consult a fitment database or the manufacturer for your specific vehicle model.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting and keep it disconnected until all wiring is complete. Reconnect only after all steps are done and before installing the fuse.
Drilling may be required for the ground connection. If no existing screw or bolt is available on the vehicle frame, you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Always check for hidden items before drilling to avoid damage.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating, as it can cause overheating, fire, and loss of warranty.
Use 12-gauge wire or larger to route from the vehicle battery to the converter. Route it carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The converter is rated for 5.0 amps per side on signal circuits and 7.5 amps total on tail/running circuits. Do not exceed the product rating or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
First, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the 4-flat to a vehicle with functioning trailer lights. The taillights on both the tow vehicle and towing vehicle should function. If they do not, check: (1) that the negative battery terminal is reconnected, (2) that the 10-amp fuse is installed and not blown, (3) that all wire connections to the taillight connectors are secure and not damaged, (4) that the ground wire is properly connected to the vehicle frame, and (5) that the converter box is properly mounted and not loose.
The fuse is rated for a maximum of 10 amps. If the fuse is blowing repeatedly, you are likely exceeding the product's electrical rating (5.0 amps per side on signal circuits, 7.5 amps total on tail/running circuits) or your vehicle's lamp load rating. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. Check that your trailer lights are not drawing more current than the converter is rated for. Exceeding the product rating can cause overheating and potential fire.
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