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2022 - 2026 Subaru WRX
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Complete CURT Class 1 1-1/4" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2022 - 2026 Subaru WRX. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
However you define adventure -- whether it's climbing onto the back of a mountain bike, hunting from the top of a tree stand or camping with the family a long way from nowhere -- CURT class 1 hitches provide a light-duty towing receiver to help you Bring It. Each is made to fit a specific vehicle, providing easier installation, a better fit and optimal towing capacity. Custom class 1 trailer hitches are available for a variety of smaller vehicle types, including the compact car, crossover, minivan and small SUV. This particular class 1 hitch is designed to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Subaru WRX (to verify vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). Tested in accordance with SAE J684, it offers a weight carrying capacity of 2,000 lbs. GTW and 200 lbs. TW. It is equipped with 1-1/4" receiver tube opening to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch mount. This class 1 hitch also comes with all necessary mounting hardware. With its lightweight design and smaller receiver tube size, a class 1 hitch is especially useful for adding cargo space with a hitch-mounted bike rack or cargo carrier. They can also typically be used to tow small trailers such as a utility trailer, kayak trailer or teardrop camper (never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component; i.e. the vehicle, hitch, trailer, etc). Though CURT class 1 trailer hitches are only intended for light-duty towing, we apply the same principles of quality as we do to the rest of our rear mount hitches. Each class 1 hitch is made with hands-on engineering, high-strength steel and precise welding. We use a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat, inside and out, and durable black powder coat to provide a lasting defense against rust, chips and UV rays.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Subaru WRX (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2022 - 2026 | Subaru WRX | — |
The 22 - 24 Subaru WRX Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11663 (Part #CHW-2810) fits 2022-2024 Subaru WRX models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 22 - 24 Subaru WRX Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11663 (Part #CHW-2810) fits the following vehicles: 2022-2024 Subaru WRX. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 22 - 24 Subaru WRX Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11663 (Part #CHW-2810) is designed to fit the 2022-2024 Subaru WRX.
The 22 - 24 Subaru WRX Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11663 (Part #CHW-2810) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The CURT 11663 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 2,000 lbs. and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Required tools are: ratchet, aviation shears, torque wrench, die grinder, 3/4" socket, 10mm socket, and safety glasses. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The installation difficulty is rated as Moderate. This rating is based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
Installation requires removal of five rear rubber exhaust isolators, removal and trimming of the heat shield, and enlargement of frame access holes on both sides to allow 1/2" fasteners to pass through. You must also remove six rubber plugs (one large and two small from each frame rail). Plastic underbody panels may need removal to access outside exhaust hangers.
You do not need to fully remove the exhaust, but you must lower it by removing the five rear rubber isolators. The manual recommends supporting the exhaust as required during this process. The exhaust is then reinstalled after the hitch is mounted.
Drilling is not required. However, the installation does require trimming of the heat shield and enlargement of existing frame access holes on both sides to allow 1/2" fasteners to pass through. A die grinder is listed as a required tool for this work.
The fishwire tool is used to guide the 1/2" carriage bolts and square hole spacers through the frame rails without losing them inside the frame. You insert the coiled end of the fishwire through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole, pass it through the spacer, thread the bolt into the coil, kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt, then pull the fishwire, spacer, and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole.
All 1/2" fasteners must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening during final assembly.
The kit includes: four 1/2" carriage bolts, four 1/2" serrated-flange nuts, four square hole spacers (1/4" x 1" x 3"), and four 1/2" fishwire tools.
Remove the heat shield by removing four small screws with a 10mm socket. Cut a hole in the heat shield as shown in the diagram. After fishwiring the 1/2" hardware into position, reinstall the heat shield with three of the fasteners, leaving out the one between the mounting holes. The heat shield will be sandwiched between the hitch and vehicle frame rails.
1. Lower the exhaust by removing five rear rubber isolators and support it. 2. Remove the heat shield (four small screws, 10mm socket) and cut a hole in it. 3. Remove six rubber plugs from the frame and enlarge the access holes on both sides. 4. Fishwire the 1/2" hardware through access holes into position on both sides, then reinstall the heat shield with three fasteners. 5. Raise the hitch into position. 6. Torque all 1/2" fasteners to 110 ft-lbs. 7. Reinstall the exhaust and underbody panels.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. Support the exhaust as required when removing the rear rubber isolators. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. This helps prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
No drilling is required. The installation involves trimming the heat shield and enlarging existing frame access holes with a die grinder to allow 1/2" fasteners to pass through.
All 1/2" fasteners must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs.
The tongue weight capacity is 200 lbs. The gross trailer weight capacity is 2,000 lbs.
Four 1/2" carriage bolts, four 1/2" serrated-flange nuts, four square hole spacers (1/4" x 1" x 3"), and four 1/2" fishwire tools.
The Curt 56516 is a powered converter system that provides trailer lighting control for passenger cars. It converts the vehicle's taillight signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and running lights) into a 4-flat trailer connector. The system includes a converter module, wiring harness with yellow (left turn), green (right turn), red (brake), and brown (tail/running) wires, and a white ground wire.
The Curt 56516 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not specify compatible makes, models, or years. Consult the product fitment database or contact Curt Manufacturing to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
No. The manual states this converter system is to be used only on 12-volt negative ground systems. It is not compatible with 24-volt systems or positive ground systems.
Required tools are: panel removal tool, wire cutter, wire stripper, ratchet, 10mm socket, crimp tool, and Phillips screwdriver. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
The manual shows a hardware photo and product photo but does not itemize all included components. Based on the instructions, the kit includes: yellow, green, red, and brown signal wires; white ground wire with ring terminal; black power wire; converter module; 4-flat dust cover; cable ties; ground screw; double-sided tape for converter mounting; and a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse. Refer to the product packaging or contact Curt Manufacturing for a complete parts list.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery, look up its location in your vehicle owner's manual, and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery during installation. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and before testing.
Yes. Step 2 and Step 3 require you to open the trunk, remove the taillight fastener trim cover with a Phillips screwdriver (one screw per side), and use a 10mm socket to remove two taillight fasteners per side. Pull the taillight straight back and separate the wiring connectors, taking care not to damage the locking tabs.
Use a fishwire (a stiff wire, cut-up wire hanger, rope, or string) to route the wires through blind holes in the vehicle body. Insert the fishwire through the hole and locate it on the other side. Tape the harness to the fishwire and pull back up. If the wire gets hung up, push back down, wiggle it, or twist it to loosen it. Starting on the driver side, attach the yellow wire to the fishwire and pull the harness up the body to attach to the factory wiring between the separated taillight connectors. Run the green wire along the back of the bumper to the passenger side, keeping clear of the exhaust, then repeat with the green wire routing to the passenger taillight cavity.
After routing the yellow wire up the driver side of the vehicle body using a fishwire, attach it to the factory wiring between the separated taillight connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat the same process with the green wire on the passenger side. Then reinstall the taillights on both sides, installing them in the taillight cavities.
Locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the frame of the vehicle. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint if necessary. Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener. If no suitable fastener exists, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole and use the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet on page 5 of the manual. The black wire must be connected to the positive (+) battery terminal using a ring terminal. The connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp max fuse holder. Install the fuse only after all other steps are complete. Route the 12-gauge wire to the battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges.
Mount the converter module using the provided double-sided tape. The exact mounting location is not specified in the manual; refer to the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet diagram or contact Curt Manufacturing for the recommended location on your vehicle.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector with the center of the vehicle and out of the hatch to the trailer, staying clear of the hatch's latching mechanism. When not in use, roll up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Install the fuse only after all other installation steps are complete.
If drilling a new ground hole is necessary, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. The white ground wire with ring terminal is then secured to the vehicle frame using either an existing fastener or the provided ground screw.
The power wire is 12-gauge (12 GA) or larger. This wire connects from the vehicle battery positive terminal to the converter module and must be routed through a fuse holder with a 10-amp maximum fuse.
Signal circuits (left turn and right turn): 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Yellow = Left turn signal. Green = Right turn signal. Red = Brake signal. Brown = Tail/Running lights. White = Ground. Black = Power (connects to positive battery terminal through fuse holder).
P1 is behind the driver side taillight housing, outside of trunk. P2 is behind the passenger side taillight housing, outside of trunk. These are the locations where the yellow and green signal wires connect to the factory taillight connectors.
Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically noted with red covers or a red '+' symbol), as this can cause a ground short resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks. Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Do not reconnect it until all other steps are complete. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The ground area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint. If drilling is necessary, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole only after confirming there are no hidden components.
When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. This prevents the wire insulation from being damaged and reduces the risk of electrical short circuits.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This confirms that all signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake, and tail/running lights) are working correctly before using the system.
After testing the system with a test light or functioning trailer: reinstall all items removed during installation (taillight trim covers, taillights, trunk items); reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected; install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion; and secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevents electrical failures.
The Curt 56516 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Consult the product fitment database or contact Curt Manufacturing to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle make, model, and year.
You will need: panel removal tool, wire cutter, wire stripper, ratchet, 10mm socket, crimp tool, and Phillips screwdriver.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the system has been tested.
Drilling is required only if no suitable existing fastener or bolt is available for the ground wire. If necessary, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole in the vehicle frame after checking for hidden items behind or under the surface.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Yellow = Left turn, Green = Right turn, Red = Brake, Brown = Tail/Running lights, White = Ground, Black = Power (to battery positive terminal through fuse).
Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (risk of short circuit, sparks, and electrical shock). Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before installation. The connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse.
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